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Ceodryn

How to protect the dials?

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On the "long-term" side, Contact paper is a good option.  I've used it to protect my game books forever (geek alert: learned the trick as a library aide many, many years ago).  I have game books that are around 25 years old and the covers are still in perfect condition - no yellowing, no peeling or cracking, no failure of the adhesive.

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So... I finaly found 2 A-wings.. Prob the last ones in sweden. And one was misprinted.

 

http://cdn1.cdnme.se/3942207/7-3/1056871_10151603502033869_206680242_n_521fc460ddf2b30bd5a7e4b0.jpg

Weird. Write FFG and I'm sure they will send you a replacement ASAP.

 

Out of curiosity i googled ALA to see if it meant something in another language (maybe printed in Latvian or something) and this is what i found

 

http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/ala

 

English taken from Latin

  1. (zoology) A wing or winglike structure.
  2. (anatomy) A winglike anatomical process or part, especially of bone.

Can't be a coincidence can it?

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i have no sympathy for you people

 

you know what my problem is?  my dials look brand spanking new

 

as in, i don't get in enough games!!!   :(

I'm kinda in the same boat as you. But i noticed the outsides of my dial starting to fade from my thumbs so i immediately wanted to cover everything with the spray and did (including a washer). Just to be safe. If it doesn't take much for the outsides to fade the numbers on the inside can't be far behind. Ten bucks for the spary and washers and an hour or so of my time was worth it for the peace of mind. Wish i could play more though to really put some miles on those dials

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I have another problem with my dials. For some unknown reason my YT-1300 dial "squeaks" whenever I use it. I don't have this happen to the other 20 or so dials (I only have one Falcon model). I think this is impairing my performance with the Falcon... even Han has trouble shooting straight!

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I have another problem with my dials. For some unknown reason my YT-1300 dial "squeaks" whenever I use it. I don't have this happen to the other 20 or so dials (I only have one Falcon model). I think this is impairing my performance with the Falcon... even Han has trouble shooting straight!

 

your dials are too tight.  see if you can squeeze a straight edge underneath the plastic hub thing in the center to give the dial a bit of relief.

 

should spin freely w/o squeeking afterwards

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If I can add my two cents...

I have recently discovered the game at Gen Con. I am completely hooked and even listen to battle videos in my car. I do not watch as my imagination makes it better.

I do want to say the best option is HP260 packaging tape from Duck Brands. Their tape is non yellowing (I have an 8 yard roll of tape that is still crystal clear) and a thick tape. It also uses an acrylic adhesive that is for long term storage. Essentially the other tapes use an adhesive that breaks down over time. (Think of a box that is old and has white powder and a plastic strip that falls off) It is sold pretty much everywhere in office supply stores, WalMart, Lowes, Target, fabric/craft stores, etc. It comes in 60 yard or 22 yard roll (with dispenser).  

I know this as I sell this among other products in my day job. I am not selling, just offering my opinion for my new game friends.

sorry for sidetracking a little but I'm completely new to this game two (getting my copy in the mail today) I was just curious about where you find those battle videos. I guess YouTube but do you have a channel you could recommend? You are welcome to PM me. Against sorry for sidetracking.

 

I enjoyed these guys stuff

http://www.youtube.com/user/miniwargaming

 

Here is a good one

 

Plus TableTop did a great battle

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i have no sympathy for you people

 

you know what my problem is?  my dials look brand spanking new

 

as in, i don't get in enough games!!!   :(

I'm kinda in the same boat as you. But i noticed the outsides of my dial starting to fade from my thumbs so i immediately wanted to cover everything with the spray and did (including a washer). Just to be safe. If it doesn't take much for the outsides to fade the numbers on the inside can't be far behind. Ten bucks for the spary and washers and an hour or so of my time was worth it for the peace of mind. Wish i could play more though to really put some miles on those dials

 

So I got myself some Kyrlon Clear Coat Acrylic Spray (1303) this will be okay for this? How did you spray the outside of the chits/dials? Coating the outside/flat part of the bits seems easy but I imagine you'd have to paint on something to get the sides?

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So I got myself some Kyrlon Clear Coat Acrylic Spray (1303) this will be okay for this? How did you spray the outside of the chits/dials? Coating the outside/flat part of the bits seems easy but I imagine you'd have to paint on something to get the sides?

 

That sounds about like what i used. Clear acrylic spray for sealing artwork. Take apart all of the dials and give one side a nice even coat. Let dry for a few minutes (20ish?) and give that side another coat if you'd like. After it dries for a while, flip them all over and do the dame to the other side. I didn't spray the edge of the dials because they don't have any paint on them that i was worried about coming off. They are just unfinished cardboard.

A few words of caution:

1) Try out the sealer you bought on some other game piece that you have plenty of (focus token, target lock, etc) to make sure it doesn't have some weird reaction.

2) Be careful about what surface you use to put the dials on while spraying. I used cardboard and the sealer dripped a little or something and caused one of my dials to stick to the cardboard a little and a small amount of the dial pealed off when i was trying to separate the two. If you use cardboard you may want to move the dials to a dry piece of cardboard after you spray. Or try a towel or something.

3) Be careful about where you spray. The first one i did i let dry outside in an area that i thought was pretty safe. While it was drying a piece of sand must have blown and gotten stuck on the dial. The sand came off but it left a little "ripple" in the clear coat.  Not that big of a deal but it annoys me.

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On the "long-term" side, Contact paper is a good option.  I've used it to protect my game books forever (geek alert: learned the trick as a library aide many, many years ago).  I have game books that are around 25 years old and the covers are still in perfect condition - no yellowing, no peeling or cracking, no failure of the adhesive.

 

Yuppers.  The ConTact paper is more work (especially when you collect and use ships by the squadron!), but I'm sticking with it for the long-term insurance.  I know that this is a game like De Bellis Antiquitatis and BloodBowl that I'll likely still be playing 20 years later.

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Just wanted to add my 2 cents. I read this entire thread, and decided to try all three options: 1) ConTact paper, 2) 5/16" washers, and 3) Acrylic Varnish (paint). I bought the ConTact paper and washers at Home Depot. The ConTact paper was $8 per roll, and the washers were $1.20 for a pack of 5. I had the varnish in my art supplies, but I think it was $10-15 per bottle. 

 

I'll do a quick Pros and Cons of each so I don't take up too much of your time.

 

ConTact Paper:

Pros: Durable, 1 roll enough to last forever, inexpensive (based on quantity)

Cons: Time consuming to outline, cut, and apply

 

5/16" Washers:

Pros: Fast install, Works to keep dials from rubbing 

Cons: Can be expensive (depending on quantity), Supply uncertainty (Home Depot had very little stock on hand), Dial not as secure

 

Varnish:

Pros: Fast application

Cons: Unknown durability (have to see long term results)

 

I think my order of preference is Washer, ConTact paper, and Varnish only because the washers are so simple to use. However, if I start noticing the dials with the washers are coming undone, I might switch to all ConTact paper. 

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I use ConTact and washers.  The dials spin better with washers.  I tap the dial hubs closed with a blunt object and they stay together just fine.

Why do double work? You could just use washers because they won't rub against each other. 

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ConTact Paper:

Cons: Time consuming to outline, cut, and apply

You can speed this up by skipping the "outline" step.  Cut a square of contact paper, slap it on the dial, then use an X-acto to trim the outside and hub.  It goes relatively quickly, and is actually even more accurate than trying the outline.

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Just wanted to add my 2 cents. I read this entire thread, and decided to try all three options: 1) ConTact paper, 2) 5/16" washers, and 3) Acrylic Varnish (paint). I bought the ConTact paper and washers at Home Depot. The ConTact paper was $8 per roll, and the washers were $1.20 for a pack of 5. I had the varnish in my art supplies, but I think it was $10-15 per bottle. 

 

I'll do a quick Pros and Cons of each so I don't take up too much of your time.

 

ConTact Paper:

Pros: Durable, 1 roll enough to last forever, inexpensive (based on quantity)

Cons: Time consuming to outline, cut, and apply

 

5/16" Washers:

Pros: Fast install, Works to keep dials from rubbing 

Cons: Can be expensive (depending on quantity), Supply uncertainty (Home Depot had very little stock on hand), Dial not as secure

 

Varnish:

Pros: Fast application

Cons: Unknown durability (have to see long term results)

 

I think my order of preference is Washer, ConTact paper, and Varnish only because the washers are so simple to use. However, if I start noticing the dials with the washers are coming undone, I might switch to all ConTact paper. 

Preventing the dials from coming apart with a washer between them is an easy fix. A small amount of superglue in the female post of the plastic center piece will keep the dials together.

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DON'T USE THE CONTACT PAPER STUFF!

Easy way to do this and ALL of your tokens is to use artist fixitive.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-gloss-fixative/

This works well.  

 

 

Hi folks - 

I think the idea of using a spray is pretty compelling because of the easy factor.  I happen to already have some Army Painter Super Matt Varnish for Miniatures and Models already - is that the same thing or similar enough?

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To add more info to the thread:  here at my Lowe's (Virginia, USA) the nylon washers are $0.56 for a bag of 4.

 

Also -- with the washers in place it looks like there's no contact between the discs at all so I think I'll skip the varnish.

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Just to maybe help others out, here’s my spray update:

I went to Michaels (any art store will have some) and picked up the "high gloss" version spray for 10 dollars and went to town. The goal was every piece in the game and also to use the washers in between the dials.

 

I first set a large cardboard piece on the garage floor, spread out my items and went to town. With 1 hour of "drying" between sprays I simply flipped the items over and did the other side after my alarm went off. At this rate the parts were slightly tacky to the touch or when being set on each other. And while this game has a ton of pieces I was able to do my entire set within a day (20+ ships, so all tokens and dials).

 

While doing this and moving amounts of sprayed items back and forth you do notice the general "stickiness" of the items, 1 hour is just not enough time for true drying. Fortunately that time is more than enough for general handling of them. When spraying I noticed some cardboard pieces looked wet, literally, and so I over sprayed some parts deliberately, not to soak but more than normal; and in the end, they came out looking pretty much exactly the same and with no noticeable drawback or issues from others that were not sprayed as much.

 

While drying the items do tend to adhere to each other but any touching will immediately separate them and they do not “bond” to each other, even now, a week after doing it they slide right off of each other (no doubt the spray has fully “cured” ) and the dials spin freely although you’ll occasionally hear a “pop” if they’ve been touching with pressure for some time, although no damage has occurred. My tokens slide right off of each other just as freely as they did when they were just cardboard, but in your hand you’ll notice a slight texture to the items.

 

You’ll notice a slight sheen to the finished items too, just noticeable when held next to an uncoated one but overall the look is better. The cardboard always had a bit of “haze” to it and the glossed product seems to have a slight clear coat on it giving them a bit more depth. IE the reds are slightly more red as are the blacks and blues, overall it looks better IMO.

Since I did these to the wave 3 ship cards as I got them, before punching the items out, I was able to easily cover everything and may suggest you try that too. It went flawless and they still punch out just as well. Part of me wonders though if doing it with the items punched out may contribute to the spray covering the edges, maybe providing a bit more protection from the cardboard separating.

 

Overall it was easy and you can tell it’s tougher than the default cardboard. With no real chance of damaging the items (even the over sprayed ones have about the same gloss coat after drying) it’s tough not to recommend this. I did not do multiple coats but on a few pieces just to see the outcome but they all again end up with about the same look, although multiple coats may protect better. I went with long steady sprays while moving evenly over the pieces and due to the speed and protection, will use this on my future items.

 

In case anyone is wondering the spray is of course designed to protect art (non-yellowing) and prevent smearing/damage to the work under it. I’ve used it before on my own art work and never noticed any damage done to softer papers or mediums.

 

Hope this helps someone.

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