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Annette Soleil

Annette's MoM Painting Log

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Posted (edited)

Well, with quarantine still ongoing right now, and a lack of anything better to do with my time, I've decided to finally start working on painting my MoM collection. Of the three games I own with minis, MoM is the one I've owned the longest (since way back during 1st edition) but also the only one I've yet to paint anything for. Mostly because up til now I was mostly relying on Sorastro's painting guides for Imperial Assault and Journeys in Middle Earth. But I've gotten enough practice with miniature painting now that I'm confident enough to be able to tackle my MoM minis without outside help.

I'm going to (mostly) start off with the investigators, because I want to be able to use them for my other Arkham games in addition to MoM. The LCG especially, so I'll probably focus on the investigators that have been released in both games at first. And maybe a handful of other favorites here and there, like Lily Chen or Monterey Jack.

To start off, I decided to paint Dexter Drake first. He's a favorite of several people I play Arkham games with, and with him being released for the LCG next month (thus making him playable in every single Arkham game now) he seemed like a natural first choice.


Two things that are the bane of my existence: Painting capes, and painting characters that are holding weapons/items in both hands. Both make for lots of annoying, hard to reach areas. Thankfully Dexter's cane wasn't too bad compared to some of the gun wielding characters from Imperial Assault, but I'm still annoyed that nothing I did was able to make his cane stay straight.

Next up is gonna be my personal favorite from the LCG: Ursula Downs.


Paints Used

Base: Tanned Flesh + Kobold Skin
Shade: Flesh Wash
Highlights: Base Tone -> Kobold Skin -> Corpse Pale

For the eyes, I always paint them before the skin using Brainmatter Beige (Vallejo's Ivory is another good option) followed by a touch of black or dark grey, then touch up the surrounding area with the skin tone.

Hat/Hair/Pants/Shoes/Jacket/Outer Cape
Base Tone: German Grey (V)
Shade: Dark Tone
Highlights: Base Tone -> Dungeon Grey

For the shoes, I applied a second coat of shade to darken them further, and applied the highlights very selectively to give a slightly shiny look. In retrospect, I should've just darkened the German Grey with a bit of black for the shoes.

Gloves/Tie/Shirt/Inner Cape
Base Tone: Spaceship Exterior
Shade: Dark Tone + Lahmian Medium (C)
Highlights: Spaceship Exterior -> Matt White

Cane/Buttons/Hat Rim
Base Tone: Matt Black
Shade: Dark Tone

Base: Toxic Boils
Shade: Dark Tone + Purple Tone + Lahmian Medium (C)
Highlights: Toxic Boils + Matt White

Metal Portion of Cane
Base: Shining Silver + Matt Black
Shade: Dark Tone
Highlights: Shining Silver

All paints used are from Army Painter unless otherwise indicated. (V) for Vallejo, (C) for Citadel.

Edited by Annette Soleil

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Posted (edited)

It's a snake, clearly. Trying to pull a fast one on Yig no doubt.


Now for one that went much more smoothly. One of my personal favorite investigators, Ursula Downs. Despite having more varying areas of color than Dexter Drake (and inevitably having to do a lot more touch ups over time) I found her to be a lot easier to paint. The hardest part was probably settling on what colors I wanted. I set out everything I wanted the night before but wound up changing my mind on several of them throughout the painting process (especially for her pants).

I haven't decided for sure who I'm gonna paint next. I'm tentatively thinking of doing Mandy and Jim, because they're the investigators me and a friend are going to be using for our Dreamlands side of the Dream-Eaters campaign. Ashcan Pete will probably be one I do soon, because he's my older brother's favorite. And probably Trish as well, because of her upcoming appearance in Innsmouth, and she's who I plan to use for my first run of that.

Just for reference, in case anyone in is interested, I'll try and list the colors I used. I mostly use Army Painter because I got a real good deal on their complete lineup about a year ago when I first started painting IA minis, but I've gradually incorporated some Valejo and Citadel paints over time. The Valejo paints are definitely my favorite of the three and I'll probably replace most of my Army Painter colors with Valejo equivalents wherever possible whenever they run out. I find the Citadel paints to be overpriced and less convenient to use.



Base: Flat Brown (V) + Clear Orange (V) (Roughly 3:1)
Highlights: Fur Brown + Clear Orange (V) (3:1, with gradually higher quantities of Orange. I swapped to Fur Brown to lighten the highlight without going too Orange)
Shade: Strong Tone (I thinned it rather heavily with Lahmian Medium and applied this after the highlights)

Base: Tanned Flesh (I added a very small amount of Flat Red (V) for the lips)
Shade: Flesh Wash
Highlights: Tanned Flesh -> Kobold Skin

Base: Griffon Blue + Wolf Grey (4:1)
Shade: Blue Tone + Dark Tone (2:1)
Highlights: Griffon Blue -> Wolf Grey -> Fog Grey

Base: Matt White + Spaceship Exterior
Shade: Dark Tone (Heavily thinned)
Highlights: Reapplied base tone

Base: Refractive Green (V) + Combat Fatigues
Shade: Military Shade
Highlights: Reapplied base tone (I ended up happy with the darkening effect of the shade and only touched up a few spots)

Belt/Gloves/Boots/Hair Tie
Base: Flat Brown (V) + Matt Black
Shade: Strong Tone + Dark Tone
Highlights: Reapplied base tone with slightly more brown. I mostly did this just for the boots

Machete/Belt Buckle
Base: Shining Silver + German Grey (V) (4:1)
Shade: Dark Tone
Highlights: Base Tone -> Shining Silver -> Shining Silver + Matt White

Machete Handle
Base: Flat Brown (V) + Matt White
Shade: Strong Tone + Dark Tone
Highlights: Reapplied base tone

Top Buckles
Base: Greedy Gold + Flat Brown (V) (3:1)

Edited by Annette Soleil

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Awesome job! I really appreciate you including your paint specs... I've been dreaming of painting my MoM minis (and others) for a long time now, but as I'm not particularly dexterous or have any experience with painting, I find the process very daunting.

The info you shared is extremely helpful. Who knows, I may eventually get the nerve (and the cash) to try my hand at painting some day.

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You should check out some of Sorastro's painting tutorials on YouTube then, most of them are geared toward beginners. The very first Journeys in Middle Earth video in particular covers a lot of the basic stuff someone who's just starting out might not know.

I would definitely recommend against doing what I did and buying some massive paint collection. A good set of about 15 or so colors (plus a full set of washes and maybe some medium) is more than sufficient when starting out. You'd be amazing the variety of color you can achieve just by mixing basic tones. Having a large paint collection to pick tones from can be easier sometimes, but it's also way more expensive. And you sometimes wind up wasting more time trying to pick out the perfect tone from a massive collection, when you could more easily just mix the appropriate tone.

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Up next is Mandy Thompson. And oh boy, this one was much less fun to work on.

I think that just in general, yellow is a terrible color to work with. It's always so finicky. Red is pretty bad as well, especially in this case where I needed to mix it with a little brown for the right tone. Brown tends to overpower red pretty quickly and I ended up wasting a fair bit of paint trying to get the right shade of red for the hair and shoes.
On top of that, this mini is just kind of terrible. On mine in particular, her body is leaning back significantly and it looks really bad. Nothing I could do would fix that so I eventually gave up and just decided to finish her. Also of the minis from the 1st edition of MoM, Mandy still manages to stand out as one of the worse ones. The features (especially in the face, and Mandy's glasses amplified this problem) on the old minis are super cramped and often inconsistent. Her shoes are really clunky and have almost no detail to them. They look really bad.
Despite that, I'm really happy with how the coat turned out. Painting the yellow was a pain in the *** and I was expecting to hate how it turned out, but the shade really brought out the details very nicely. I ended up doing very little highlighting on the coat because of how nicely the shade worked. The skirt, on the other hand, was the total opposite experience. The base coat went on very smoothly and the shade went pretty well too. But I really messed up my highlights at first. I wound up getting really angry and applying a second layer of heavily thinned shade after I was done highlighting, hoping it would pull the layers of highlight together more smoothly. And it... kind of did? I'm not thrilled with it, but it looks decent enough from gameplay distance.
Base: Flat Red (V) + Flat Brown (V) (I used a very tiny amount of the brown; maybe experiment with a different color to get the tone you want, but this is what I used)
Shade: Red Tone + Strong Tone (2:1)
Base: Tanned Flesh + Kobold Skin (1:2)
Shade: Flesh Wash
Highlights: Kobold Skin -> Corpse Pale
Base: German Grey (V)
Shade: Dark Tone
Highlights: German Grey (V) -> Dungeon Grey
Base: Yellow Ochre (V) (Desert Yellow would've also worked)
Shade: Light Tone
Highlights: Yellow Ochre (V) -> Buff (V) (For the light, I used Lemon Yellow (V))
Base: Flat Red (V) + Flat Brown (V) (I used slightly more brown than with the hair)
Shade: Red Tone + Strong Tone (1:1)
I forgot to highlight the shoes, whoops. They would've looked terrible either way, probably better not to draw attention to them.
Base: Spaceship Exterior + Matt White
I found these too tiny to bother shading/highlighting.
I dry brushed this with Shining Silver (before painting the skin), followed by a coat of Citadel's Black Templar contrast paint.
Alternatively, you could mix a silver with a darker color, followed by a black shade and then gradual highlights. Or paint in black first followed by the silver dry brush. Contrast paints are very expensive and the only reason I have this particular color is because it was left over from when I painted my IA Stormtroopers.
Basically there's lots of ways to paint metallic areas using some combination of black, silver, and dark shades. If you plan on dry brushing at any point in the painting process, try to do it before painting the surrounding areas.
If I ever forget any areas in these paint lists, feel free to point them out to me. I try to keep a written log of what paints I plan on using so that I can more easily replicate tones for future minis, so even if I forget to list something, I probably still have it written down somewhere.

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Next up, Jim Culver!

This one wasn't nearly as bad to work on as Mandy. Honestly the hardest part was settling on what colors to mix to get his suit the right color. Overall I'm pretty happy with how that turned out. The mixture I ended up with also wound up being rather thin, which meant I had to apply it in multiple layers to look halfway decent. But it was still thin enough that even if I got relatively even coverage, the zenithal highlights still showed through. Which made it really easy to touch up the final areas of highlight.

The only other issue of note was trying to find three different shades of brown that looked halfway decent, between his suit, skin, and hat. Brown is such a finicky color to work with (much like yellow, but it's much harder to avoid having to work with brown in these cases). Still, it worked out in the end.


Base: Oak Brown (AP) + Wasteland Soil (AP) (+ just a tiny hint of black to dark and de-saturate the tone)
Shade: Strong Tone (AP) + Purple Tone (AP) (3:1)
Highlights: Base Tone -> Increasing quantities of Oak Brown + Wasteland Soil, negating the darkening effect of the black

Base: Dragon Red (AP)
Highlights: Dragon Red (AP) -> Pure Red (AP) -> Mars Red (AP)

Base: Spaceship Exterior (AP) + Matt White (AP)
Shade: Some heavily thinned Dark Tone, mostly along the collar to add some depth

Base: Greedy Gold (AP) + Flat Brown (V) (4:1)
Shade: Strong Tone (AP)
Highlights: Greedy Gold (AP)

Base: Flat Brown (V) + Flat Blue (V) (4:1)
Shade: Flesh Wash (AP) + Strong Tone (AP) (2:1)
Highlights: Base Tone -> Gradually working in some Monster Brown (AP) (Working in a darker flesh tone like Tanned Flesh would probably also work)

Hat/Suit Buttons
Base: Oak Brown (AP) + Matt Black (AP) (2:1)
Shade: Strong Tone (AP)
Highlights: Oak Brown (AP) -> Monster Brown (AP)

Shoes/Hair/Hat Rim
Base: Matt Black (AP) + German Grey (V)
Shade: Dark Tone (AP)
Highlights: German Grey (V) -> Dungeon Grey (AP)

Edited by Annette Soleil

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