CaptainRocket 527 Posted June 20, 2018 I just got a set of lovely buildings from Imperial Terrain, and like many other 3D prints at this scale, the lines from the filaments are pretty visible, especially on the domes. How are people smoothing them out? I think sanding would not work well to be even or get in around some of the details. I spray shapeway's white flexible grainy stuff with a few coats of gloss varnish and then prime them, that helps those, but I think these grooves are too deep for that. Is there something else to paint or fill with? Much thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The captn 199 Posted June 20, 2018 Give it a once over with some sandpaper to knock the sharp edges off then I primer with duplicolor filler primer. Once it's to my liking I finish as usual Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainRocket 527 Posted June 20, 2018 54 minutes ago, The captn said: Give it a once over with some sandpaper to knock the sharp edges off then I primer with duplicolor filler primer. Once it's to my liking I finish as usual Thanks! I had no idea such a thing existed. I'll try it out! ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The captn 199 Posted June 20, 2018 Just now, CaptainRocket said: Thanks! I had no idea such a thing existed. I'll try it out! ? Not a problem. I just got a 3d printer so I could do lots of terrian stuff. The few things I've bought and finished that's what I've done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mep 2,291 Posted June 20, 2018 The domes are the worst. I tried sanding and the plastic doesn't sand easy or quick. One could certainly put the energy into it though. I used automotive primer as IT suggests, followed up with sand textured spray paint. I don't see the print lines, not even on the domes, and the texture is perfect for the models. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C3POFETT 833 Posted June 21, 2018 If you like I recommend a watered down wall filler or joint compound. It fills in the gaps and gives a concrete or cement look when dried. It can be sanded and painted with any type paint. 1 rasmussen81 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albertese 159 Posted June 22, 2018 I use a medium rubber polishing wheel in a rotary tool to knock down the ridges. Don't know if this would be possible for everyone, though. I'm a dental technician by day and therefore have access to more fancier kit than most people seem to. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mep 2,291 Posted June 23, 2018 And skill set. If a normal person went at it with a dremel they'd probably do more damage than good. A filler primer seems to get the job done well enough. Those domes are tough though. 1 Albertese reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Force Majeure 4,108 Posted July 24, 2018 I thought I remember hearing something about using a rag with acetone to wipe down the prints. It lightly meets the surface...? Don't ruin your prints because of me though; it's just something I vaguely think I remember hearing or reading--do your research! 1 OlaphOfTheNorth reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OlaphOfTheNorth 229 Posted July 25, 2018 Vapor bath: https://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/ I'd recommend this more to those 3d printing on their own than to anyone who bought pieces through shapeways or wherever, it's important to be able to test a couple times to get this to work right. 1 yaoull reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainRocket 527 Posted July 30, 2018 Quick update... The @The captn's gap filling auto primer has worked wonders! I sanded with a 100 grit sponge, then sprayed a coat. Repeated a sanding, and another coat, then sanded again. Any area I paid attention to the print lines are gone. A quick spray with a sand texture on top of this and it's basically perfect! I haven't painted any additional details, but just this makes them look fantastic. I'll put up piccy's later... 2 jconway2002 and The captn reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The captn 199 Posted July 31, 2018 9 hours ago, CaptainRocket said: Quick update... The @The captn's gap filling auto primer has worked wonders! I sanded with a 100 grit sponge, then sprayed a coat. Repeated a sanding, and another coat, then sanded again. Any area I paid attention to the print lines are gone. A quick spray with a sand texture on top of this and it's basically perfect! I haven't painted any additional details, but just this makes them look fantastic. I'll put up piccy's later... Thanks man im glad it worked out. Ive used probably 3 or 4 cans here lately on stuff ive printed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainRocket 527 Posted August 1, 2018 Model before any finishing. After sanding and spraying one coat of filler. After sanding again and spraying sand texture paint. 2 Thraug and Force Majeure reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Turan 166 Posted August 10, 2018 (edited) @OlaphOfTheNorth Vapor bath: https://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/ I'd recommend this more to those 3d printing on their own than to anyone who bought pieces through shapeways or wherever, it's important to be able to test a couple times to get this to work right. It's also important to point out that the acetone technique only works specifically on ABS plastic. I can't conveniently find on Imperial Terrain's Web site what kind of plastic they use for the physical models they sell, but I presume it's PLA because ABS is more difficult to print with and there's no benefit to them using it. You can certainly ask them, but this most likely doesn't apply here. Edited August 10, 2018 by Turan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aniron 218 Posted August 21, 2018 On 8/10/2018 at 4:43 AM, Turan said: It's also important to point out that the acetone technique only works specifically on ABS plastic. I can't conveniently find on Imperial Terrain's Web site what kind of plastic they use for the physical models they sell, but I presume it's PLA because ABS is more difficult to print with and there's no benefit to them using it. You can certainly ask them, but this most likely doesn't apply here. Yeah, you can do the same on PLA, but you need pretty toxic and carcinogenic chemicals to do so (like DCM). Better to sand/prime/sand/repeat until satisfied. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites