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docForsaken

Best tutorials for magnets + bases?

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Have folks seen some really good tutorials on modding the models with magnets?  I really want snap-in, snap-out magnets for my models and trays.  I've only seen 1 or 2 videos online and the results looked dicey or clunky.  Can folks post up good ones they've found? 

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@docForsaken These go in the hole on the model, 95% of the time you won't even need glue

https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DH11

Then clip out the peg in the tray, sand it a little if there is enough plastic still there that prevents these discs from sitting flat,  put down a drop of glue then these discs

http://www.buttonboyinc.com/steel-metal-discs-3-4-19mm-for-use-to-make-magnetic-pendants-500-discs/

the result is a solid hold that even cavalry will stay in tray when held upside down, and minimal if any noticeable lift to the model in the trays.

Edited by jek

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Trust me dont try and do the whole magnet pairs on the base and model The metal sheet is the way to go.
Pairing magnets not only has polarity issues (3 of my spearmen trays i apparently flipped the **** stack of magnets at some point with so they have to have their own trays) but if they dont make contact they wont hold very well either. Most of my cavalry have that problem, barely any better than just sitting there without a peg. Magnets have to be REALLY strong to have any real strength if they arent making contact

I had been looking for a metal disc replacement for the base magnets. Thank you jek!

Edited by Vineheart01

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I confirm. I used the exact same components as Jek and it works like a charm. One important note: the 1/16" height of the magnets is smaller than the depth of the hole in the minis' bases, so make sure to put just a little tiny bit of material (I use blue tack that I push down with a toothpick) at the bottom of the base hole so that when you glue and put the magnet in, it will rest flush with the bottom of the base. Otherwise the magnetic bond with the disc is much weaker (believe me, even a small recess of 1mm of the magnet inside the base produce a much weaker bond than a flush fit).

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Ah I have been setting the magnets with one of the discs and pressing them in for a flush fit using an old metal key that is larger than the actual base, they go deeper than flush with this method.  Anything that is perfectly flat and larger than the model base will work for this.  But if you are just sticking the magnet into the hole with the stick of magnets as the pressing force than yes as @Xargonaut said make sure there is something in the hole so you don't press the magnet anymore than flush...I think it may be time to update my magnets how to they work guide with the 1/10 magnets instead of the 1/16 ones I initially used.

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Generally i use the stack of magnets to keep the polarity right and just push the model on a flat surface afterwords to get the magnet flush.
Doesnt always work depending on how thick the magnet is, since getting it off the stack sometimes isnt possible unless its all the way in.

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Oh these things last years.

Some of my 40k models i magnetized like 6 years ago are still going strong. Demagnetization of rare earth magnets is kinda unusual unless theyre given intense heat/shock repeatedly, which kills natural magnetization.

The only natural magnets ive ever heard having issues demagnetizing are old car doors with early automatic rolling. They used regular magnets rather than a coil for some reason, and the intense heat from the car over about a decade would weaken them enough to no longer work. Ive never heard of a rare earth magnet used in any crafts or modeling project getting demagnetized. Even shattered these things hold their magnetic properties.

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neodynium? like 10-20 years I think is KJ's estimate...and I think that estimate is just because they have to say something because of the ridiculous range of industries they supply magnets too...

Edited by jek

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25. Will my neodymium magnets lose strength over time?
Very little. Neodymium magnets are the strongest and most permanent magnets known to man. If they are not overheated or physically damaged, neodymium magnets will lose less than 1% of their strength over 10 years - not enough for you to notice unless you have very sensitive measuring equipment. They won't even lose their strength if they are held in repelling or attracting positions with other magnets over long periods of time.

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Thanks Jek.  Thats awesome.  Do you have enough seige bases to glue them in?  Do they come 1 per model?  I never stopped to count them.  That would certainly make basing them easier.

Edited by docForsaken

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yeah they are 1/model everything comes with the trays. The only model you don't get a tray for is the infantry upgrades of the new hero...because you don't need one for the lone figure upgrade

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3 hours ago, jek said:

yeah they are 1/model everything comes with the trays. The only model you don't get a tray for is the infantry upgrades of the new hero...because you don't need one for the lone figure upgrade

Hmm you could probably run Lord Hawthorne on top of a hero 'mound' if you wanted to go for that look, couldn't we...

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1 hour ago, Darthain said:

Ok? Why not?

latest?cb=20170502025739

Lord Hawthorne's unit card shows that he is a cavalry unit. The rules state: " There are three types of figure, each of which fits in a specifically configured tray, as follows:"

units_zpstyvfhyea.png

You could proxy using the infantry figure of Lord Hawthorne on a scenic base, but that's not how the rules intend him to be used as a standalone hero.

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14 minutes ago, Budgernaut said:

latest?cb=20170502025739

Lord Hawthorne's unit card shows that he is a cavalry unit. The rules state: " There are three types of figure, each of which fits in a specifically configured tray, as follows:"

units_zpstyvfhyea.png

You could proxy using the infantry figure of Lord Hawthorne on a scenic base, but that's not how the rules intend him to be used as a standalone hero.

What gameplay affects are changed by playing him on a scenic base is the real question.  The rest is all just flash.  It is like people who make a fuss about people running single post aces in Armada as 'all the components' are not present. 

Edited by Darthain

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5 minutes ago, Darthain said:

What gameplay affects are changed by playing him on a scenic base is the real question.  The rest is all just flash.  It is like people who make a fuss about people running single post aces in Armada as 'all the components' are not present. 

That's a different question than what you originally asked. The rules (including icons) indicate that the single-tray hero should be the cavalry version. No current gameplay effects care which piece of plastic you use, but there may be some in the future that do. For now, though, gameplay isn't affected. And you'll note that I did indicate as much in my original post when I said you could proxy it if you wanted, which is exactly what you're advocating.

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14 hours ago, Darthain said:

Ok? Why not?

I'm not saying you can't in a friendly game, or in a tournament where all parties agree, I'm just saying that it was the only situation where a tray is not given with these miniatures and that there is a good rationale for it not to be given.

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8 minutes ago, Darthain said:

Incredibly amusing based on above:

431Y6Vu.png

Heroes on display on scenic bases.

I know they have a picture on the release page (which I think was a mistake) but without there being any actual unit card or dial for the infantry version there is no real reason that they would have for including infantry scenic trays with the unit. 

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Let's get this back on track.


So when you're doing the magnets on the hero mound for Lord Hawthorne's infantry layout -- do you clip that peg just the same as everything else? Drop one in there too?  Do you drop another magnet underneath the mound for the tray? 

 

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1 hour ago, Glucose98 said:

Let's get this back on track.


So when you're doing the magnets on the hero mound for Lord Hawthorne's infantry layout -- do you clip that peg just the same as everything else? Drop one in there too?  Do you drop another magnet underneath the mound for the tray? 

 

For the full trays I just glue down the base.  As I don't put magnets on the bases themselves (using magnetic paint, much like the buttons/bezels) I just need to magnet hawthorne himself.

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