Question regarding Quickshade

[Deathseed 1,738]

Asking those with experience with it.

Is it best to do your highlights before or after applying Quickshade dip (requisite Quickshade drying time assumed of course)?

Edited April 24, 2017 by Deathseed

[shoeshine 8]

Generally after, but there are edge cases where some of your highlights will be done before the shade. Just use the same philosophy you would with a normal wash.

[Tekwych 270]

With Quickshade paints always after. With Quickshade dip you could go wither way as the dip will stay in the recesses but shake off the rest of the model.

I use the paints because it is easier for me but the dip is a great solution as well.

[Deathseed 1,738]

3 hours ago, Tekwych said:

With Quickshade paints always after. With Quickshade dip you could go wither way as the dip will stay in the recesses but shake off the rest of the model.

I use the paints because it is easier for me but the dip is a great solution as well.

Aye, I was referring to the dip/varnish.

I didn't specify that clearly. Edited it above. Sorry for the confusion.

[eilif 135]

I do almost all my highlighting (rough drybrushing in my case) post-dip.  

[Deathseed 1,738]

21 hours ago, eilif said:

I do almost all my highlighting (rough drybrushing in my case) post-dip.  

Good to know. Post or pre dullcoat (assuming you do dullcoat)?

I ask because I've heard rumors of highlights being difficult to apply over the shine that Quickshade dipping creates pre-dullcoat.

[eilif 135]

35 minutes ago, Deathseed said:

Good to know. Post or pre dullcoat (assuming you do dullcoat)?

I ask because I've heard rumors of highlights being difficult to apply over the shine that Quickshade dipping creates pre-dullcoat.

That is the question, isn't it?...

Traditionally the accepted method is to put the highlights on before the dulcote (in my case brush-on matte varnish).  However, as you suggest paint sticks better to a matte/flat surface than to a glossy dipped surface so that is one point in favor of after.  Also, once  in a while a thin highlight on a gloss surface can actually be disolved or disturbed by the application of a brush-on varnish.  Rare, but it can happen.

Most folks will dip-highlight-dulcote but ideally, maybe you'd do dulcote, highlights and then dulcote again?

 

Edited April 24, 2017 by eilif

[Deathseed 1,738]

1 hour ago, eilif said:

That is the question, isn't it?...

Traditionally the accepted method is to put the highlights on before the dulcote (in my case brush-on matte varnish).  However, as you suggest paint sticks better to a matte/flat surface than to a glossy dipped surface so that is one point in favor of after.  Also, once  in a while a thin highlight on a gloss surface can actually be disolved or disturbed by the application of a brush-on varnish.  Rare, but it can happen.

Most folks will dip-highlight-dulcote but ideally, maybe you'd do dulcote, highlights and then dulcote again?

 

That seems to be the way Army Painter suggests.

I just need to get off my butt and do some testing.

[Tekwych 270]

2 hours ago, eilif said:

maybe you'd do dulcote, highlights and then dulcote again?

This. Dip is an oil base so you need the Dulcoat to build a new base for the next layer.

Dulcoat before any difficult layer can also help you step back if needed. It is easier to strip down to a Dulcoat layer.

[bumyong 71]

Anyone know how different Quickshade (dip) is different from Minwax Polyshades?  I've only used Minwax because it's three to four times cheaper and seems to do exactly the same thing.  I've used the brushed on Quickshades but never the dip.  Anyone have experience with both and could chime in?

[jek 1,037]

22 minutes ago, bumyong said:

Anyone know how different Quickshade (dip) is different from Minwax Polyshades?  I've only used Minwax because it's three to four times cheaper and seems to do exactly the same thing.  I've used the brushed on Quickshades but never the dip.  Anyone have experience with both and could chime in?

I believe that the pigmentation is different in the Quickshade than for the minwax...also the army painter inks match the similarly named dips... I've never used minwax for anything other than staining wood though, I did know a guy from a previous gaming league that switched to the army painter dip once it was released from using minwax, he said it got a more distinct shading...

[eilif 135]

4 hours ago, bumyong said:

Anyone know how different Quickshade (dip) is different from Minwax Polyshades?  I've only used Minwax because it's three to four times cheaper and seems to do exactly the same thing.  I've used the brushed on Quickshades but never the dip.  Anyone have experience with both and could chime in?

There is some pigmentation difference and the AP stuf does have the matching washes and such.  Fundamentally, however they are the same kind of product.  Basically a stain with polyurethane added to thicken it up.  The thickness is what makes it settle in the unique way it does to create the combination of shade, wash and faux-highlight effect.

I feel I have to remind folks that "Polyshades" is the product they want from minwax.  Regular Minwax Stain doesn't have enough poly in it to get the shading effect.

I've heard some folks say that one is thicker than the other or one colors better. I've not used Quickshade, but I've done hundreds of figs with Polyshades and I'm happy with the results.  For a long time I did only brush dip, but I emersion dipped the spearmen in a can of "antique walnut" polyshades with a bit of mineral spirits added and they turned out great.

Here's my brush-dipping tutorial.

https://www.chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/2012/01/16/with-liberty-and-brush-dipping-for-a/

Edited April 25, 2017 by eilif

[Vineheart01 6,403]

Typically you want to do your highlights last, especially the uber bright "fine tip" highlights because any wash will stain it/darken it. Quite a few times i had a wash completely nullify a highlight i had done previously so i had to highlight it again.

[WWHSD 9,273]

On 4/25/2017 at 11:51 AM, eilif said:

There is some pigmentation difference and the AP stuf does have the matching washes and such.  Fundamentally, however they are the same kind of product.  Basically a stain with polyurethane added to thicken it up.  The thickness is what makes it settle in the unique way it does to create the combination of shade, wash and faux-highlight effect.

I feel I have to remind folks that "Polyshades" is the product they want from minwax.  Regular Minwax Stain doesn't have enough poly in it to get the shading effect.

I've heard some folks say that one is thicker than the other or one colors better. I've not used Quickshade, but I've done hundreds of figs with Polyshades and I'm happy with the results.  For a long time I did only brush dip, but I emersion dipped the spearmen in a can of "antique walnut" polyshades with a bit of mineral spirits added and they turned out great.

Here's my brush-dipping tutorial.

https://www.chicagoskirmishwargames.com/blog/2012/01/16/with-liberty-and-brush-dipping-for-a/

Do you use the satin or gloss? I'm burning through my dropper of Army Painter Quickshade and figured that I'll pick up some Minwax and give that a shot.

[bumyong 71]

37 minutes ago, WWHSD said:

Do you use the satin or gloss? I'm burning through my dropper of Army Painter Quickshade and figured that I'll pick up some Minwax and give that a shot.

I use satin but it still comes out shiny so you gotta use Dullcote on it.  Glossy is probably even worse.

[eilif 135]

1 hour ago, bumyong said:

I use satin but it still comes out shiny so you gotta use Dullcote on it.  Glossy is probably even worse.

My experience exactly.