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Rob Jedi

Armored Hull YT-1300 Custom

109 posts in this topic

Stunning.

I'd suggest Big Red as a name, it reminds me of a big robot out of an old comic series in C&VG or Zzap!64 magazine. 

 

Oh wow I remember that robot comic in C&VG was very 2000AD in style. I always loved the inkwork on it. Think the artists name was Paris something. Now I feel the need to google it.

 

Oneway have you got any photos of your ship? I can give pointers if I see it.

Edited by Rob Jedi

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Nothing as is, I know what I did wrong, it's just getting back to it and hammering it out .. so to speak.. lol.. I just need to recut some plastic and get it back together, make sure my sides are even.. I know when I finally get it together I can paint it up and hide any issues.. lol.. 

 

thanks though, I appreciate the offer, I just need to take some time with it and not rush it.. 

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My advice is follow the way TRamsey did his Gozantis: Cut the sides together so that they match exactly. Also something I did was cut a groove along the side of the middle bit with a razor saw through the surface detail and curve of the hull so you have a straight groove to put the the new wall against. Much easier than trying to cut the bottom curved to match the hull. 

 

Oh and a I cut a bit out of the front of the madibles so there was a touch more room for the new section. I cut along the thick straight bit.

Edited by Rob Jedi
oneway likes this

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I also cut the mandibles a little, that helped, but cutting the grove in the hull that is brilliant.. I'll have to give that a go, probably strengthens that as well. awesome tips, thanks. 

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I found that Jerry Paris comic, it was called Bug Hunters. Big Red was the right name for the robot too.

 

Here's a collection of the comic: https://archive.org/details/Bug_Hunters_The_1990_Trident_Comics_GB

 

And, of course, The Big Red One is a WW2 movie starring Mark Hamill. 

 

I'll be stuck at work reading that comic now of course.

Edited by Dagonet

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The army painter stuff will dry eventually, but it usually takes like a week for me. It will dry shiny though, so you might want to plan on hitting it with a matte sealer somewhere down the line.

Looks incredible. Truly excellent work.

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The army painter stuff will dry eventually, but it usually takes like a week for me. It will dry shiny though, so you might want to plan on hitting it with a matte sealer somewhere down the line.

Looks incredible. Truly excellent work.

I used the little acrylic bottle stuff not the big can of dip. it dries matt.

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I have a name.

Steadfast

A reliable, old ship that got an overhaul after years of neglect. Ship flies well for its captain, never giving up on him. Always pulls through when he needs it to. It's reliable, and steadfast.

 

Cool,

 

I'm going to second this.

sathenus likes this

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Awesome project, looks amazing, and so seamless between the original parts and your add-ons. 

 

Can you explain more how you did all the detailing, and the larger custom parts? 

 

Is it all just scratchbuilt from plasticard? Is that the material? Just lots of cutting, scoring, chopping and gluing?

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Awesome project, looks amazing, and so seamless between the original parts and your add-ons.

Can you explain more how you did all the detailing, and the larger custom parts?

Is it all just scratchbuilt from plasticard? Is that the material? Just lots of cutting, scoring, chopping and gluing?

Yep that pretty much describes the method exactly. Except the engines which used some parts like verniers meant for gundam kits.

Hi, I'd not seen this thread before, the pictures you used as a base for your conversion look sort of like this ship, from an RPG book.

Apart from this one and the Oota Goota looking ship on the next page are there any more diagrams in that book?

looks like the old WEG designs were the inspiration for a bunch of the designs in the Haynes manual. It has a bunch of ship designs like the YT-1000, YT-1300P, F, FP, YT-1300 configurations and optional extras, YT-1200,1210,1250, YT-1760, YT-1930, YT-2000, YT-2400 and then the rest of the book is all about the Millennium Falcon Edited by Rob Jedi

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Just spent like an hour or so replacing the old links on this thread from photobucket which keeps running out of bandwidth with flickr ones so  thought I'd post some more finished photos as well on my space mat.

 

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Amazing!  That ship is stunning.  

I vote Red Tail by the way.  Its kind of cute, in a funny way.  

 

Steadfast is very strong-handed.  Classic, male, fantasy world feel.  

 

Also I really really like the blue touches on the side circles.  Really makes it pop.  

Edited by Blail Blerg

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Hey Rob, could explain how you went about getting your orange-y rust effect? I think I'm right in saying you used GW's Ryza Rust, but it doesn't look like you've drybrushed with it. 

 

I need to add more weathering to my YT-1300

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Republic red, I see. That used to mean diplomatic immunity, so it probably wouldn't be named for the colour unless it had a modern name change. A light freighter like that would be an odd choice for a diplomatic vessel, so it would most likely have the personal ship of a low-level dignitary, or perhaps a doctor or scientist working for a low-key organisation with few funds, perhaps on the outer rim with the intent of serving new and distant colonies or charting new worlds. It's definitely a relic of a more hopeful time, so its name would reflect that if had been retained all those decades. "Endless Gaze", "Merciful Hand", "Bakura's Succor", "Tarsus Valorum", "Wake of Ithor", "Dawnchaser"... and so on.

Edited by Tidy Fender
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Hey Rob, could explain how you went about getting your orange-y rust effect? I think I'm right in saying you used GW's Ryza Rust, but it doesn't look like you've drybrushed with it. 

 

I need to add more weathering to my YT-1300

 

Correct I've used Ryza Rust as well as Army Painter Soft Tone and Dark Tone. I use it as a wash over the detail parts streaking downward with a bit of finger tip smudging to feather it off at the trailing end. You can stipple it on if you want a really rusty panel. You have to think that rust generally happens where water pools or trails down from when the ship is parked so it should really only be around the gribbly details.

Edited by Rob Jedi

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Hey Rob, could explain how you went about getting your orange-y rust effect? I think I'm right in saying you used GW's Ryza Rust, but it doesn't look like you've drybrushed with it. 

 

I need to add more weathering to my YT-1300

 

Correct I've used Ryza Rust as well as Army Painter Soft Tone and Dark Tone. I use it as a wash over the detail parts streaking downward with a bit of finger tip smudging to feather it off at the trailing end. You can stipple it on if you want a really rusty panel. You have to think that rust generally happens where water pools or trails down from when the ship is parked so it should really only be around the gribbly details.

 

 

Ok - thanks. So you watered down the Ryza Rust, turning it into a wash?

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Yep exactly. Rust should really pretty much always be applied as a wash. It really made no sense GW making it a drybrush paint. Good colour though.

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