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  1. You can easily run a 1st edition game using 2E R&E rules. The other way around is not as easy, though.
  2. This is a forum where we discuss 1E games. Feel free to come hit us with some questions! CLICK HERE to see Beggars Canyon
  3. 1E is definitely easier to learn and more basic in design. Instead of a rule, the GM is called upon to make a ruling and get on with the game. I would definitely first start out with 1E. Note, that there are a few differences between 2E and 2E R&E. Heck, there are even some different versions of 1E. 1E, core rulebook only (I play this). 1E + Rules Upgrade. The upgrade is a four page document that I'm sure you can find on the net. 1E + Rules Companion. The RC is a supplement of optional or additional rules that can be tacked onto 1E basic.
  4. Yes, quite a big difference. I've played both games, first and second edition, extensively. Both are exceptional games. Second edition has more rules. First edition is more seat-of-your pants gaming. In my younger days, I preferred 2ER&E. But, today, I've gone back to basics. I like the simple, quick gameplay of first edition. In 2E, skill points are turned into character points, and you can use them to improve task throws. You can use up to two CPs on a regular task, and you can use up to five CPs on a defensive throw. So, if you have Blaster 4D, then you can throw 6D, using two CPs. And, the CP's explode, too. If you roll a 6 on either CP die, then you can re-roll it and keep re-rolling it as long as you roll 6's. If you have STR 4D, and you get shot, then you can roll up to 9D, using five CP's, to defend yourself when you roll for damage. Again, those CP's explode. You know about the Wild Die. It explodes, too, and there can be some negative outcomes on a Wild Die "1". During character generation, there are specialization skills, where you can get a 3D benefit from a single 1D spent. These are spent on more narrow descriptions of the skill. There are Advanced skills, too. The negative to burning CP's is that CP's are also used as skill points to improve character skills. In my games, I found that players kept using their CPs like mini-Force Points, and they never improved their characters. While this all sounds cool at first, this leads to some problems--the rule of unexpected consequences rearing its head--when the game is played. For example, when Han Solo is piloting the Falcon, being chased by three TIE fighters, Han can use his CP's defensively to save the ship and everyone on board. In a battle-heavy game like Star Wars, the pilot of the stock light freighter will eat through his CP's while everyone else on board gets to keep theirs. Also, in a 2E game, you'll find that stormtroopers can be rather weak. That's because the PCs got boosted with all these new rules and the stock stormtroopers remained the same. In a 2E game, you'll find you have to throw a lot more dice. Players will Specialize in skills that their characters use a lot, naturally, and thus 6D will become more common, where that's a high number of dice in 1E. You will also throw more tasks. You roll for Initiative in 2E (and I love the elegant initiative system in 1E). You roll for sensor scans. There are more skills in 2E, some with more narrow definitions. You may roll for movement in 2E. It's just a more complicated, more detailed game. Again, I will say that both games are great games. I do love 2E. But, these days, my preference is for the much more basic 1E. To me, it fits the feel of the original trilogy better than does 2E.
  5. I'd rather see the Imperial Sourcebook and the Alliance Sourcebook reprinted, for first edition. Those two would make a sweet pairing for a slipcase.
  6. So, the lightsaber can be thought of as akin to a garrote wire, a very thin arc of energy that cuts.
  7. Please do! I'd like to hear! I tried to design it so that the dice represent hidden cards, as you would have in poker. But, that's hard to deal with in real life at a gaming table, especially if the GM is running more than one NPC gambler. By rolling out in front, in the open, so that everyone can see, it's easy on the GM to play with the players. The hidden cards are represented by the Gambling roll, which can also be done out in the open--there's no guarantee that high Gambling skill will win, but in the long run, they will. It leaves enough room for non-gamblers and characters with low skill to get on a lucky street and beat the pros--just like in real life.
  8. Long Pi'Lok In basic Pi'Lok, a player is dealt three cards (three dice). He makes a hand by picking two of the dice. Higher is better, and doubles represent a doubled total. Thus, the highest hand is 6 - 6, which equals 24. A hand of 1 - 1 = 4. The lowest hand is 1 - 2 = 3. A popular variation played by more skilled gamblers is Long Pi'Lok. The game is played the exact same way except there is a provision for all three dice matching. A player still picks the best two results from his three dice, but if all three match, then the player may add up all three and double the total. Thus, the highest hand in Long Pi'Lok is 6 - 6 - 6 = 36. A hand of 1 - 1 - 1 = 6. The lowest hand is still 1 - 2 = 3. Another difference in Long Pi'Lok is during the Jump phase. The Jump can be played out as it is in basic Pi'Lok, or a player can challenge the hand with the lowest total. If the player wins this challenge, then he may re-roll one of his own three dice. This is often done when a player has doubles and is trying for a third match. If the Jump challenge fails, then the opponent--the player with the lowest total, may re-roll one of his dice. In this way, a low total can get back into the game (if the Jump challenge fails and the opponent wins the toss). Example: THIRD STREET: Han = 1 + 4 + 2 = 6 Lando = 2 + 2 + 5 = 7 Roark = 2 + 3 + 5 = 8 Roark can Jump challenge. But, he elects to pass. Lando is to Roark's left, so Lando can now Jump challenge. And, Lando decides to try for a third "2", which would give him a total of 12. Lando must challenge the lowest total, which is Han. If Lando wins the jump challenge, then he re-rolls his "5", hoping to get a 2, for a total of 12. He can still roll another 5, which would give him the same total. And, he can roll a 6, which would tie him with the winning hand that Roark has. Only a result of 1, 3, or 4 will hurt his total, but right now, he's losing anyway. If Han wins, then Lando's hand stays the same, and Han may choose to re-roll one of his dice (he'll re-roll the "1" to have an excellent chance of getting a higher number). LIMITING JUMPS Another variation that can be added to the game is to limit the number of jumps. A popular rule variation is to only allow one jump per hand. When this happens, instead of the offer to Jump going to the left and hitting all players, the choice starts with the highest total, then if that person passes, it goes to the next highest total (to the left breaking ties), and so on. Thus, if Roark gets first chance at the jump and declines, then Lando gets the option to Jump. If Lando attempts a jump, then Han cannot because only one jump is allowed per hand. Another popular rule change is to allow one jump but start with the lowest total hand. That person will usually always jump. And, a third rule change option is to allow the player to re-roll his own dice only if he already has a pair among his three dice.
  9. Example Play of Three Card Pi'Lok There are three players... Roark Garnet Perception 3D Han Solo Perception 3D Gambling 8D Lando Calrissian Perception 4D Gambling 9D+2 ANTE: Each player puts 10 credits into the pot. POT = 30 credits DEAL: I am using an online dice roller. Roark = 2 Han = 1 Lando = 1 Roark leads the bet. He bets 50 credits. Lando calls 50. Han calls 50. POT = 180 SECOND STREET: Roark = 2 + 1 = 3 Lando = 1 + 1 = 4 Han = 1 + 4 = 5 Han leads the bet. He bets 110. Lando calls 110. Roark calls 110. POT = 510 THIRD STREET: Han = 1 + 4 + 2 = 6 Lando = 1 + 1 + 5 = 6 Roark = 2 + 1 + 5 = 7 Roark leads the bet. He bets 150. Lando raises to 300, thinking he can win on the jump. Han calls the 300. Roark calls the 300. POT = 1410. JUMP: Roark can jump first, but he declines (knowing his skill isn't as good as the others). Lando jumps Roark: Lando Gambling 9D+2 = 35 Roark Perception 3D = 11 Lando has Roark re-roll the "5". Roark re-rolls...and gets a 5! So, there is no change! Roark has beaten Lando! Han decides to jump Roark. Han Gambling 8D = 27 Roark Perception 3D = 16 Han has Roark re-roll the "5". Roark re-rolls...and gets a 3. Roark's new set of three dice is: 2 + 1 + 3 SHOWDOWN: Roark = 2 + 1 + 3 = 5. Lando = 1 + 1 + 5 = 6. Han = 1 + 4 + 2 = 6. Han and Lando split the pot. Commentary: Han had no choice but to jump Roark. Otherwise, Roark would have won the hand. But, Han ended up with only half the pot--which is better than nothing. Notice how, on Lando's jump, the much more experienced gambler did not win. But, this game has two great players in it, Lando and Han. It's tough for Roark to win swimming with those sharks. Still, on any single hand, it definitely can happen. This was a high stakes game. I think a game more suited to normal pocketbooks would still include a 10 credit ante, but then the betting should drop to the range of 1-25 credits. A 5 or 10 credit bet is plenty.
  10. Three Card Pi'Lok This is a simple gambling game that I made up for D6 Star Wars. I designed it so that it can be easily played by players amongst themselves, or with the GM running NPCs. This is the basic game. Many versions exist. Three Street Pi'Lok Step 1 The ANTE - Each player in the hand must pay to play. 10 credits is a usual ante amount, but the stakes change depending on the game. This step is often called the Fee, or the Berthing Fee. "C'mon, now, pay your berthing fees." Step 2 - The DEAL - Each player rolls 1D and places it in front of them. The highest number die is the best hand. This represents the deal--a card is dealt face up in front of each player. The deal rotates to the left each hand. The highest card (or the first "6" die) to the dealer's left acts first. The player can pass or bet. In turn, each player can call, raise, or fold. The bet passes to the left until each player has gone. This step is often called the Lift, or the Lift Off. "Was dealt a fat six on the lift, and I bet it big." Step 3 - SECOND STREET - Starting the with player who bet first on the Deal, each player rolls a second 1D and places it in front of him in the open. This represents the second card dealt face up. Another betting round is played, with the highest total betting first (or the first total of 12 to the dealer's left). This step is often called Orbit. "I made orbit with double sixes! And, I raised those suckers!" Step 4 - THIRD STREET - Starting with the player who bet first in Second Street, each player rolls a third 1D and places it in front of him in the open. This represents the third card dealt face up. A betting round is played, with the highest total betting first (or the first total of 18 to the dealer's left). This step is often called the Deep. "I got out into the deep with a perfect hand--three sixes. You shoulda seen the eyes go wide when they saw my hand!" Step 5 - The JUMP - Starting with the player who bet first on Third Street, each player is allowed to Jump another player. Only one jump attempt can be made per player. If a jump is made, both players roll their Gambling skill (or Perception attribute). The winner is allowed to pick one die from his opponent's three dice and have his opponent re-roll that one die. Jumping is risky because a gambler can lose the skill toss and have one of is own dice re-rolled. But, this is where a character's skill comes in. Better gamblers will win more often in the long run. The Jump simulates better possible better play by more skilled players. In the short run, though, less skilled players can still get lucky--which is why Three Street Pi'Lok is universally played across the galaxy. Also, re-rolling on a jump can also result in the opponent getting lucky and rolling better than he originally had (maybe he rolls doubles). Players may, of course, elect not to jump. High Gambling skill is not a guarantee to win every hand--far from it. There is no slang term for the Jump as it represents the gamblers playing the game--not really a specific function of the game. Step 6 - SHOWDOWN - In order to win the hand, player pick two dice from the three dealt to them (after adjustment from the jump). The dice are worth face value, added together. Doubles count twice. Thus, the highest hand is two "6's", which would total 24. A perfect hand. Two "1's" would total 4. The lowest hand is a total of 3 (a 1 and a 2). Highest hand wins the pot. Tied hands split the pot evenly. This step is often called the Shadowport. "I showed 'em my shadowport, but he still won with double 4's."
  11. I think, as a 1E GM, I would just make a template for a player wanting to play a Bith. I'd add +1D to each attribute unless there was some strong background story reason to do something different. Then let the player pick his 7D in skills. Bith PC Template DEX 2D KNO 3D MEC 3D+2 PER 3D+2 STR 2D TEC 3D+2 I wouldn't be opposed to allowing a player to remove 1D from one of these attributes and increasing three other attributes by +1, two by +1 and +2, or one by +1D. Customization--makes the Bith an individual. Plus, the player chooses the skills like in any template. I would also entertain the idea of taking the average Bith and allowing a max of 2D to be placed on the attributes at the player's option. Of course, this would make STR 3D possible (going against the 2E max, but I think that's OK), and, it would make KNO 6D impossible (which I think is OK, too). Given this, I might allow the special case modifiers provided by 2E.
  12. GALAXY GUIDE 4 - ALIEN RACES I was comparing the 1E and 2E GGs, and I found quite a bit of difference. The 2E description adds a bit more than what you get in the 1E guide, and the 2E books is more organized. The GM notes in the 2E are more extensive than the Roleplaying notes in the 1E guide. From the 1E book, it seems that all Bith are pacifists, but the 2E book makes it clear that this is true more so for the Bith on their decimated and dangerous homeworld of Clak'dor VII. Many Bith leave their homeworld, and many find employment among the Fringe. The Fringers are not limited on skills like Blaster as are their pacifist brothers. The biggest change are the stats allowed. First, Bith are given mechanical bonuses for their eyesight, Dexterity, and sense of smell under certain circumstances. You don't see that in the 1E book. Where the 1E book gives you stats for a typical Bith (no skills, attributes only), the 2E book gives you a range. A 1E Bith is provided as... DEX 1D KNO 2D MEC 2D+2 PER 2D+2 STR 1D TEC 2D+2 The 2E book says a normal Bith has 12D for stats to be used in these ranges: DEX 1D/3D KNO 2D/6D MEC 2D/5D PER 2D/5D STR 1D/2D TEC 2D/5D I will say that the 2E books makes more a more interesting character. The 1E description leads a player to believe that all Bith are pacifists. They don't want to endanger life. Well, who wants to play that? That's great for an NPC, but this is STAR WARS, baby! Player want to shoot blasters! The 2E version of the book tells us that many Bith who leave their homeworld become gifted pickpockets, con artists, and gamblers. Now, doesn't that seem like something more interesting? Something a player might want to play? The 1E core rule book tells us that alien characters can have attributes higher than 4D and lower than 2D, unlike the human player character templates. The 1E GM must use his judgement on how this applies to Bith. I don't know if this is good or bad, but the 2E books gives limits for players and GMs to work with. But...looking at those stats...where three attributes can go to 5D, and one can go to 6D? Make this a player character, using 18D for attributes, and now the player has a pretty bad-assed character on his hands. Is this good? Not necessarily. The bad side to this is the dice creep that is prevalent in 2E games. Some skills will be (KNO skills) if the player wants, and/or the character could have all MEC, PER, and TEC skills at 7D. Plus, remember the bonuses that I mention above giving another +1D in certain situations (and if you play 2E, you've got skill specilization and Character Points on top of all this). No wonder some 2D players complain of rolling too many dice. And, one of those 2E dice explodes! The Wild Die! That is dice creep, and it leads to thing like regular stormtrooper being ineffective, under-powered, and just not scary to 2E characters. As a 1E GM, I do prefer the 1E "average" stats without the limits listed. That way, a player doesn't see the limit and maximize his character that way. If there's a good story element, then maybe the GM allows a higher attribute or two for a specific Bith character--but it is minimized, this happening, going through the GM. As a GM, I'd much rather keep my games rolling 2D or 4D or sometimes 6D on a roll rather than rolling some of the extreme dice hand fulls that we see in 2E. I'd say that there are some good things to consider about the 2E book, but if you use it, don't go overboard. Remember what a 1E game is all about.
  13. Lightsabers I don't know if this is new or just one author's opinion. If it is true, then I never knew this about lightsabers. In Dark Force Rising, Timothy Zahn describes the damage done to a human from a lightsaber blow that killed the person as a near microscopic cut with some cauterization. I always thought of a light saber as this big, half-inch to inch wide pillar of burning plasma. Of course, the heat must not travel that far off the blade--heat like that, just getting close to it would cook raw skin. We've seen the weapon cut off limbs, through pipes and catwalk caging, and be shoved handle deep into a blast door so that the other side turns to molten steel. But, we've also seen a lot less damage. Check out Finn, when he is sliced up the back in The Force Awakens. I would expect a trench to be cut in his back--instant death. But, that's not what we see in the film... LIGHTSABER DUEL IN THE FORCE AWAKENS In Attack of Clones, Anakin chops the aliens into pieces... ANAKIN SPLIT 'EM IN HALF On Jabba's sail barge, we see more of the type of damage that we see with Finn above... SARLACC FIGHT So, what's the deal? Reading Zahn's explanation does fit all the things we see in the films. The big, wide beam does not. I thought that the films were just "PG" and, while we can see make believe flying aliens be cut into pieces, it was appropriate to show limbs and body parts go flying except at dramatically appropriate times (Obi-wan at the Cantina, Luke's Hand, Vader's Hand, Anakin's hand, Dooku's hands). Are the lightsabers actually thread-thin beams, and all the light we see is just the intense light we see emitting off that very thin--almost microscopically thin--energy blade? Or, is all the light we see plasma energy? In that case, are the Jedi barely touching the blade to targets (as with Finn and Luke on the sail barge) because...they don't want to make a bloody mess? Or, is it both? The lightsaber is all the color energy we see--as thick as that--but the user calls upon The Force to shape the blade when using to create an energy edge--the blade folds or protrudes into a very sharp, almost microscopic edge, all at the control of the Force user wielding the blade? Thoughts?
  14. Question: Leia's Interrogation Aboard the Death Star? I'm curious how this works within the context of the game. I see the IT-O in GG1-1E. It has a Knowledge skill called Interrogation Techniques 4D+2. (GG1-2E completely revamped the IT-0, making it mucho meaner, with almost twice the skill level in a Knowledge specialty skill called Intimidation: Interrogation 7D+2.) There's not much guidance on how the droid works and uses that skill. I'm assuming the droid rolls Interrogation Techniques 4D+2 against Leia's Stamina 6D. No wonder she withstood the interrogation. Now, if the 2E version was used, it doesn't make sense that Leia withstood the interrogation (unless a Force Point was used, and that point applied to the entire interrogation--not just one attempt on one round). Thoughts on how the IT-O works, with respect to the game rules?
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