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CaptainRocket

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  1. I can't honestly fathom how folks are saying $75 is expensive for the model with the interior and computer consoles?! I've been looking at scratch building from studio set blueprints and this level of detail requires a ton of handwork or 3D printing and/or laser cutting. Buying a smaller model with less detail is going to be $30-$50 + shipping. This is a premium model that comes with a bonus scenario and I couldn't be happier!
  2. Super cool! I love the lighting! How do you do that? The tarps on the crates are also fab... they really take the terrain to the next level!
  3. Does anybody know if the new tank bases are the same size as the old huge bases?
  4. Yeah, the ability to destroy entire planets is nothing, compared to the power of glue shrinkage! Castlecruncher is right... counter shrinkage is a good approach. Seeing the amount of shrinkage you may need to do it a few times and then do some filler to level.
  5. Now the final compromise is how to play them game wise. It's tempting to make doors slow down players by requiring an action, or requiring players to stop in base contact before opening or closing, but (like with climbing). After all IRL it would slow things down. However I think that has on overly large effect in game terms - dealing with a couple doors can eat up half a game, which is def not right or fun! So if you think that a unit's activation is not about moving at breakneck speed, but is about tactical movement, and that time period should allow for things like door opening, then we can have rules like: All trooper units can OPEN/CLOSE an unlocked door at range 1 of the unit as a free action. Units may LOCK/UNLOCK a door at range 1 of the unit as a free action. Units may only lock/unlock doors that their side controls (defined by scenario). Indicate locked doors by placing a suppression token on the closed door. Units may BLAST CONTROLS of a door at range 1 as a free action. This is not an attack. Doors which have blasted controls may not be opened or closed. Indicate blasted controls by placing a wound token on on the door. Doors with blasted controls may be repaired. All trooper units gain the REPAIR DOOR CONTROLS action which allows them to remove a wound token from a door in base contact with the unit. Note this is not a free action. Trooper units may make an attack against a closed door to destroy and remove the door from play. Doors have Armor 2, Health 1, and no defense dice.
  6. Absolutely both! All the gritty little details of the places and cultures in the Star Wars universe... I want them all. I love these stories and characters and ridiculous lore. I'd say it brings out the kid in me but... er... that's probably pretty close to the surface all the time anyways. If it doesn't look and feel like it belongs in Star Wars, I just can't get excited to make it... On the other hand I've learned the hard way that you can make pretty dioramas all yoo want, but if you don't account for how it's gonna be useful for controlling line of sight or movement, or how figures can move onto, through, or around it in reasonable time, then it's just gonna sit in the corner of the map, or worse on a shelf! So... only barely tardy... This month I will offer my humble doors for my Echo Base interior table. I carefully studied the film references and set construction blueprints and realized a couple of things. 1. If I made the doors the correct proportions and scale, Legion bases would not fit through them. 2. If I kept the proportions and fudged the scale, the doors would be waaaaaaaay too tall. 3. If I lowered the door height to match the correct feeling of scale... then a ton of figures with up raised arms would not be able to fit through them either. Time for compromise! I did a few test cuts on my new laser machine and came up with an in-between design that kinda looks rights, doesn't poke up too far, and fits *most* figures (sorry Chewie, but it makes sens you would have to duck).
  7. Looks really great! Painted up they're going to be amazing~ Aro you going to go ruins in a desert or ruins in like a forest? I guess you could even do tundra... Since this is about aesthetics vs function, I'll say two things that you could consider to make the function better though! Firstly, getting up on the second level during a game is really tricky, so ramps of rumble or something else that allows for maneuver up some structures could be something to consider. Second, the ruined pillar look great, but I've found that narrow rounding LOS blocking terrain can be pretty frustrating because it almost never provides cover to squads and also ends up reducing your outgoing firepower (though the height is great for AT-STs and T-47s. Once thing to condier is maybe some fallen over pillar bits to pile against the pillar bases or just in the ground to give some linear cover. It's soooooo true about having fun too... I'm a bit slowed down cause I over crafted last month trying to get my Hoth table done enough to play an event! Oh that tree trunk looks fantastic! Is it printed or how did you make it? And which A-Wing is that? Galoob Action Fleet? Can you measure it for me pretty please?!?!?!
  8. I dunno... I think becoming a healthy long lived alternative to 40K is totes possible. Sure the IP is less flexible, but it's also more broadly accessible and inclusive. Once we clear the three year mark the critical mass of models in the market will make an alternative very tricky. Disney doesn't want to lose a market.
  9. looks great! The grass really sells it!
  10. Do you have the Hasbro toy? Would love pics of one undamaged for scale ref!
  11. OMG that Turbo Tank looks like the perfect scale! Do you have a length measurement of it?! Yeah I havent tried it yet, but I got a pile of 1x1' scraps from TAP Plastics at 50 cents a scrap, so I'm pretty hype!
  12. And also testing some lazer cut doors... Too tall to be quite accurate to the film set blueprints... but want them wide enough for Legion bases and not mess too much with the proportions... I dunno, what do you all think?
  13. Ok now I'm making floor plates but I'm not sure what scale to use that works with all the types of hallways I have... What do you all think? BIG MEDIUM SMALL
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