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Han Soko

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  1. Good comparision ... and ... Palpatine on an Endor/Forrest-Base ... : NO
  2. Here are my almost done speeder bikes (first 2 of 3 squads). I hope to get my basing stuff this week to finish everything that is painted so far.
  3. No, no varnish until now, but I will use my ultra-matte varnish as usual, because I have my “light-effects” painted and don’t want them to collide with real reflections
  4. Han Soko

    Terrain?

    "This file requires authorization" Seems like its behind a wordpress login.
  5. I am sure there are painters out there who are able to achieve a result, that does both ... but that is not me (Sure, I hope I will get there someday). The lamp I use simply does that ... they look good during painting, good on the Photo ... but not always on the tabletop. I am okay with that, because during a game the difference between a Mini where I invested 5 hours and the one that was done in 1h is hardly noticeable or matters that much.
  6. Thank you guys. Besides using more glazes then thick colors, here is what I think makes a big difference too... the light: This is the lamp I am using, which creates a large illuminated area with a very bright neutral light. This light makes it possible to see even the finest nuances (of white or even other colors) ... Taking Photos of the Minis then, makes them also look almost exactly like you see them during the painting process ... BUT: It seems to me that it doesn´ t create the best results regarding the presence of the Minis on the Tabletop. They often look to dark there and under some circumstances some of your gradients are "eaten up" and make your Mini simply look **** (at least if you are like me and don´t care for the smoothest gradients ... at least for such an army-paintjob). TLDR: The Lighting matters. a) For your painting itself and b) As a result for the circumstances where your Mini looks good.
  7. Thank you. I am really happy how it turned out ... almost exactly how I planned it
  8. So. Here is the first squad of my Stormies ... Flocking of the Bases follows.
  9. Haha. Stop that please. I think the photos make them look better as the actually are.
  10. I was a little busy in the last two weeks ... My Birthday, My Daughters Birthday, Friends Birthday ... May/June-Craziness, that didn´ t help getting forward with my army. But here´ is a little update on my stormies ... For one squad only the weapons and the shoulder pad of the commander needs to be done ... The other one is also missing some highlights (looking at the photos it seems like an almost useless step ... anyway). In general they came out with much less contrast then my snowtroopers - but I think I am okay with that .. they look good enough and my Birthday had the result of an other core box, an AT-St and a Veers box ... so no time to think or to worry about that. I have to paint, paint, paint. For the bases I am still waiting for some money to make a big order of woodland-scenic stuff that I also want to use for my gaming-table. Hope I will get that soon, to finalize that stuff. A comparision shot. And here is my current work bench ...
  11. Is was hoping for regular STs coming with the E-Web... so I hope for a good and easy to follow tutorial on how to convert them. But if it’s not possible I take them as they are and paint them as wood-troopers again.
  12. Wrote this somewhere else. Give me feedback i you want if it helps and where I have to be more precise: Priming: I used the zenithal priming technique here. I just mixed black primer and grey and sprayed it from the bottom with my just purchased airbrush - absolutely recommend to get one - and then grey primer from the top (Vallejo Primers). Cloak: I did these first. I started with a greenish wash (Black + Dark-Green with Citadels Lahmian Medium, which is great to create custom washes) and then did a layer of highlights (with a kind of greyish beige Glaze). I repeated these steps three times I think. It took some time but it is worth it to create some smooth transitions here. For the White: I mainly glazed here with three shades of gray (all a bit blueish) and white. The zenithal highlighting helped and guided me where to use the almost white and where to use darker grey ... the transition I did with a gray that had the strongest blue tone (it was more a bright blue then grey) ... finally I did highlights with pure white on the edges and did some glazing with the white on the top areas. As a general rule I focus (and did the most highlighting) on the most interesting parts, like the helmets, shoulder pads and cloaks in this case. I try to make these part to look as good as possible (+ the easy parts like the bags) and almost ignore the rest. I also always look from above from time to time to check which are the parts that need the brightest colors - as I said zenithal priming helped here a lot. Almost forgot: In this case I also did some kind of black-lining with strongly diluted black, before I did the glazings for the white (and in between on the cloak). ... you can use dilluted Nuln-Oil also for that. With glazing I mean simply to use diluted colors so they are transparent (sometimes more sometimes less, I am still struggling to get the perfect mix ). Vallejo Glaze Medium is a great helper to easily create those glazes (but pure water works too). You don´t really need that much white to paint white. Just make sure too have some highlights here and there. The cloak gives an additional contrast, to make even dark grays look "white".
  13. Thank you guys! As I said I am really on the fence with this one... I am currently in the grindy "assembly line" stage with the rest of them. After the black parts are done here (and cleaned up) I will try one or two things with my test model. Currently after the airbrush stage I only used some light blue glaze for a more interesting transition and some white to make the details on the helmet pop ... well and some brown on the lower parts.
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