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BigBadAndy

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Everything posted by BigBadAndy

  1. Great stuff. The table looks fantastic, as do the dew backs and the downed ATST.
  2. I’m not sure what you I tend to do, but I am in favor of leaving the light the way it is. It looks great.
  3. Man, that looks a bit tough. It’s a complicated surface and I don’t have any experience doing one like that. But I think breaking it down into components might help. 1 texture: The surface you are trying to emulate has a rocky, uneven texture. There are readily available texture paints that will give either a sandy or a cracked mud appearance. This might be close enough for you. Otherwise you might want different layers in the base. You could do this with spackle/filler or with cork, depending on how big you want layers to be. Both will require a bit of effort. 2. colors: It seems like the effect you are going for is really caused by the juxtaposition of quite different colors. A dark gray, with a bright yellow dusty and then even rust and cool blue in some images. You can recreate this with paints, but I expect it will be challenging to combine this with textures to recreate what you see in the images. I can think of some things I would try, but none are what I would call quick and easy.
  4. I don’t have any dew backs yet, but I definitely plan to pick one up. I haven’t thought about a paint scheme but I tend to go with the standard Star Wars scheme as my default. Any alternates would be for additional units.
  5. The bad press is a combination of inflated expectations and people flat out using it wrong. To be fair to the critics, you need to shake this well and then apply it over something with a bright undercoat and manage it in thin layers. Not just slap on one thick coat and walk away. But in my hands it’s worth having.
  6. Really nicely done. Those are some tidy clones with great unit markings and good looking bases.
  7. Just to be as weird as possible, I’ve decided to just add these to the end of the thread. Im down to my rebel veterans and then a third unit of Speeder Bikes that I never got around to painting. So I’m doing these one at a time and sparing myself the misery of painting them as a batch. So far I have 3.5 done. Here are the finished three. I’m using similar colors but slightly different techniques on the models just to keep myself interested and make them less boring. But I’m also keeping the overall scheme pretty monochrome and then hoping to bring attention to their faces with some warm skin tones and the bright blue goggles.
  8. Your models are looking great. Turns out that contrast paints, like everything in painting and most things in life, produce better results if you put a little more effort into them. The Rebel minis are really well suited to this because of all the folds and textures in their cloth. Your speeder bike is looking good so far. I think the biker scout looks terrific and I wouldn’t do any additional highlighting on him unless you want to use him as a display model. The bike might use some additional work. Big flat surfaces are not great for the contrast paints because they tend to settle unevenly when there’s no clear peaks and valleys in the surface. I’m not sure how to highlight that problem away but I think it will be less obvious once you paint some more eye catching detail on the rest of the areas of the model. I might recommend redoing the handles and the pedals in gray/black to break up the amount of brown. I assume you are going to do the control panel in black in which case I think it’s probably worth picking out a light or two in red and white in order to draw the eye away. Just to be clear, I think your speeder bike is headed to a very nice tabletop miniature even if you don’t do any of the above. Just letting you know what I would choose to do since you asked.
  9. Sorry @Achinadav but I don’t see any pictures here. Glad you had a good time though. EDIT: I see them now. I typically use the black contrast paint without diluting it so one coat is plenty dark. It’s not “fire and forget” stuff - you have to be pretty careful in your application and there’s a long time between application and when it’s dry that you can’t touch it or you mess it up.
  10. The clones look nice and clean, and I especially like how you managed to get the gold band on Obi-Wan’s lightsaber handle. Looks great.
  11. I’m tempted to copy this scheme for my own veterans. I love the idea of Hoth troopers but on both the radar laser canon and the tauntauns I’ve found them a pain in the neck to paint...
  12. In my hands, two coats of the black contrast paint looks pretty flat black. So make sure you use plenty of that contrast medium if you want to keep any highlights on your death troopers.
  13. Obi-wan looks great. Nice job on the OSL. And what a terrific model. The clone wars characters are going to translate into nice to paint models because the CGI show doesn’t have a lot of extraneous details and “flair” like the costumes from the live action movies tend to.
  14. Yeah, since Sorastro was commissioned by FFG and his YouTube videos all go through an approval process at LucasFilm, I don’t think it’s a matter of opinion. His videos are the official painting guide for Legion. Also, his unofficial (but still excellent) videos for Imperial Assault are great for learning different methods and techniques for painting Star Wars characters. Unsolicited advice for beginner painters to follow: feel free to ignore me. Sorastro is very modest about his own work, but you should know going into it that your models aren’t going to look like his. That’s okay. They will still look great on the battlefield. Certainly better than gray plastic. So don’t worry about it. Don’t worry about messing them up. Don’t do what I did and paint, strip and repaint the same three models ten times trying to get them “right.” And despite the fact that they are basically two colors, don’t start with the stormtroopers - they are tough to do well and imperfections show easily. Other than that, just remember to thin your paints with a little water or thinner medium and then have fun.
  15. Either if the above suggestions work great. I would recommend roughing it up a bit with a toothbrush when you start and using a sonic jewelry cleaner if you have it. This really speeds up the process and reduces the amount of scrubbing - which will scratch up the model if you’re rough. I use a soft baby toothbrush left over from my kids’ younger days. You can get the sonic jewelry cleaner for $25 or so off Amazon and if you ever get an airbrush it’s great for cleaning that as well. But all you really need is a cup, your solvent of choice (Simple Green, Totally Awesome, methylated spirits - which you can get in the paint section of a hardware store like Lowe’s or Home Depot) and a soft brush. Soak for a few hours then scrub gently. If it’s not coming soak some more. Having said all that, I generally recommend stripping your models after you have painted your whole backlog. I have been stuck in a “never happy” loop with some models and it’s really demotivating to keep painting the same thing over and over again. When you come back later you might realize you aren’t so unhappy with the original paint job after all. Just food for thought.
  16. That’s a lot of droids... The shoretroopers and their stormtrooper pals look really great. They really give a distinct visual impression of a shady forest floor under a thick deciduous canopy, or an alien world with blue lighting. Just a really fun visual design together with well executed painting. Really great stuff man.
  17. All of your work is really good. I think your Jyn Erso is amazing. I had very little interest in her and put off painting the model for ages, but when I finally got around to it I realized it’s one of the nicest models in the whole line to paint. Krennic is similar - although white is a nightmare for stormtroopers, he has the right mix of detail to allow for shading and assist you in making a nice varied surface. But the work you did on his face and hair is absolutely terrific. I also heartily agree that, while the death trooper models are very good, they are just plain no fun to paint. So many panels and gradients that should be highlighted but would require a million years to hit.
  18. One of the central truths about contrast paints is that they will always look immediately better than a simple base color and never look as good as a base, wash, and highlight that you spend hours doing. That’s just the nature of the beast - especially if you are skinny large areas. Faces tend to come out great but it’s tough to police the looking and highlights and get a perfect look on an entire figure. Having said that, I think your death trooper looks better than mine, which I attempted to spray black and then highlight a bit with lighter grays. You might want to just let it sit and come back to it I’m a couple of days and see how you feel. I know you aren’t a new painter, but when I started about a year and a half ago I painted three stormtroopers from imperial assault, hated them, stripped them, then repainted them again. And they looked exactly the same. So I generally recommend stripping models only after you have no other painting to do. By the time you come back from painting everything else in your list, those original models probably won’t look quite so bad. edit: I’m also firmly of the opinion that miniature photography is a blessing and a curse. It allows us to share our painting with people all over the world who might appreciate it, but it also allows us to agonize over blown up details that will never be witnessed by the human eye. With only a few exceptions, the models that I am most disappointed with in my collection look good on the tabletop. Sure, there are some people who produce amazing art using miniatures as their medium of expression. But most of us just want cool looking armies and I haven’t seen any Painted minis anywhere that don’t beat gray plastic.
  19. The only things I recall ever appearing on film were orange and black.
  20. Below is the original post: I never know if it’s better etiquette to start a new thread or dig up an old one and add to it. But since I don’t want to scroll through two years of my old photos I figure you don’t want to either. I’ve been slowly but surely painting up additional forces, while simultaneously being distracted by other shiny objects (Board game minis and Legend of the Five Rings Samurai, some Harry Potter miniatures and the occasional D&D mini... darn. I’m a full on miniature addict now I guess). Somewhere along the way I painted up the rebel and imperial specialists but I don’t know if I posted them or not. I still love painting individual minis more than squads so I’m pretty happy with my Jyn and Krennic. Tabletop standard as always so don’t expect to magnify them and see flawless lines, lol. Sorry about the odd background, but I find that holding them in front of my workstation actually produces better light balance and more accurate colors than trying to get them on a white or black background. I also finished a set of scout troopers. Man, I hate white... I actually did these guys in a very light gray (Vallejo sky gray) and I should have just left them like that. In isolation they looked white enough. But once I started adding highlights with white I had to do the whole thing. I’m also finally breaking my film based traditionalism and doing a non standard unit color. Here’s my test model for desert scout troopers. I also got my x-34 done. I didn’t get final pictures of the base so I will have to dig some up tonight. But I magnetized the riders and had a nice time getting this one done. Again, not going to win any awards but hey, it looks good at arms length and I had fun doing it. I may go back and touch up some stuff. So that’s my update. I’ve got one squad each of Death Troopers and Pathfinders waiting in the wings, along with a speeder bike unit I’ve been procrastinating on. Then Bossk and Sabine. Unlikely I will get all that done before Rebel veterans and Tauntauns come out, but I can dream right?
  21. Welcome back. Bossk looks terrific.
  22. Your deathtroopers are looking good (although I admit the black armor and red armband are a bit too reminiscent of history for my taste). As far as stripping, I use something called simple green. Leave them in it over night then scrub with a soft brush. Methylated spirits will work fine according to most everyone. I might stay away from acetone - although I’ve never tried it. The contrast paints are easier to get off than most paints or washes though so you might want to start with just a soapy water scrub and see what happens. Did you pick up a core set? You are going to need a lot of that stuff to play. In addition to the dice, measurement tools and various cards, your force will need at least 3 “corps” units and right now you only list Shoretroopers among your minis.
  23. The rebel forces in Hoth are normally depicted as having a warm white/off white base uniform with a light gray for their boots and scarves and vests. Some of the toys change the gray scarves to a reddish brown. In art and stills from the films, the appearance varies quite a bit based on what scene it is and the lighting etc. All of which is to say I think any off white and light gray will do fine. It will look like the veterans as they appear at some point in the film.
  24. It’s funny, it looks gray for sure in the lot. But I used it in Bossk’s chest plate over a white primer and it cam out looking very white. I’m not sure if it need to be mixed well or if it needs a more textured surface so the gray pigments can settle or what. In any case I would agree it would be easier to highlight and more subtle than nuln oil. Is it better than any other thinned gray applied to the panel lines? Tough to say.
  25. There’s no magical chemistry for the grey seer or wraithbone undercoat primers. It’s just the color in a primer. The “official” methods tell you to clean up any mistakes with applications if the grey seer or wraithbone base colors. So you will be fine. Most people simply use white or whatever light gray or warm off-white they have on hand.
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