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Mimikyu

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  1. I own both games and I would recommend you get Imperial Assault first. The core comes with enough material to enjoy a campaign that will last easily 20 hours or more with lots of replay-ability. It also has app support with the free to download Legends of the Alliance that allows you access to a mini campaign and the option to do one player mode if you wish. In addition, the IA core box has the material to run several different formats of skirmish 1v1 play right away. This doesn't compare to Legion's armies but its still quite good. I love both games, but if you're entering the market for the first time I would say go with IA. Its way more cost efficient and flexible to what you want to do right from the box. Legion on the other hand requires nearly $200 to run full 800 point armies, not to mention additional hobby supplies, and has a narrow focus of gameplay. That being said though, once you drink the Kool Aid by buying one of these games its just going to be a gateway drug for the others so hold on to your wallet.
  2. Not to detract from your amazing work, but wouldn't it be not very effective for the farmers to have their moisture vaporator adjacent to a water fountain?
  3. The dice tracks are pieces of trim connected with wood glue, and metal brackets with screws on the corners. They also function to mark the playing field at 6'x3'.
  4. I just completed my gaming table and Endor mat and I'd thought I'd share the process/results for anyone who might find it helpful or inspiring. I live in a small apartment so my main priority is storage space. I also aimed to construct it with affordable components from the hardware store. The table is foldable and 6'x30''. I put three 2'x4' sheets of mdf on top to give myself the 6'x'4 playing space. I made the gaming mat by first covering the boards in a tarp and then clamping a painter's drop cloth on top. I then used roughly 11 tubes of cheap acrylic caulking to cover the cloth and let that dry. Following that I glued down lots of sand. In hindsight, I should of painted the caulking first with the base mud color but it didn't make a huge difference on the finished product. After the glue was dried, I painted it with a dark brown and sparingly spray painted it with earth tones to give it some more tonal depth. Then I used watered down Elmers glue to apply flock to it , using Woodland Scenic's fine turf weeds, green blend, burnt grass, and yellow grass colors in that order. Once it was all finished I cut the mat away from the extra cloth. Now I store it rolled up in a 5" diameter tube that is 50" long. The sum parts fit nicely in the corner of the spare bedroom.
  5. I just print my own on decal paper (you can purchase the paper at most hobby stores for roughly $3). I search google images for star wars logos and then move them to a word document were I size them and copy over and over until I have the varied sizes I want. Then I use a good printer at a print shop to print the decals onto the sheet. I found the poster art by searching Star Wars propaganda. Another option you have is to buy one of the Bandai model kits. The 1/48 AT-ST come with these decals:
  6. I'm making my own battle mats from canvas, caulk, and materials so I'm going 6'x4' just on the off chance we get an epic scale down the road, and to completely cover my table. I crunched the numbers and found that it was less expensive for me to make it myself than to buy. Here are 2 of the best resources I could find.
  7. I had the same concern as you last month. I did some research and am choosing to follow this video (minus the use of grass tufts and choosing to keep the rocks more neutral toned) to make my figures have debris bases. Since I'm going to collect both factions, I'll just differentiate imperial from rebel by using different shade combos to color the rocks. I figure that this will work well as a neutral environment base for everything except inside a building.
  8. I saw this and had to share. Imagine using this technique to recreate the shafts from either the Death Star or Bespin. You could put walkways across the illusion to have units fighting over a pit.
  9. @Nihm haha maybe there are some bones small enough in KCF, Buffalo Wild Wings may help too I guess.
  10. You can buy owl pellets from Ebay and then dissect them for the bones. The cheapest option I found on Ebay is 2 pellets for under $2 with $4 in shipping. I'm lucky enough to live near an aviary so I got my owl pellets there. Owls can't digest bones or fur so they throw-up these parts of the mice they eat in neat balls, perfect for bone hunting.
  11. Owl vomit, but yes . I've thought about using it for the rancor. The bones aren't very thick so you may be able to snap them and get some chewed-looking bones for it.
  12. I bought some owl pellets for the mice bones inside them from a local aviary (you can get them online) to mod the bases for my nexus and I'm pleased with the results. All I had to do was get the pellets wet to loosen them up, pull out the mice bones, and let the bones soak in hydrogen peroxide for a couple days to sterilize them. This step also bleaches the bones, so when I fixed them on the bases I used a thin layer of agrax earthshade to grunge them up a bit more. I harvested roughly 10 bones or so per pellet and now have lots leftover for future beasts. I thought about putting some blood effects on the bones but figured that it might be too gruesome for play with the family.
  13. Exactly how it's meant to be I'm so distracted when I look at the painted photos, I can't stop looking at the awkward grey stick.
  14. I'm so glad the stands are clear! I really didn't like the grey primed ones from the painted photos.
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