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Ghosthacked

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Everything posted by Ghosthacked

  1. Sir, thank you for being a leader in this community. I mean, dude. Is that a 3D print?
  2. #75 This is the big one! After returning to X-Wing from gaslands I have much more confidence now with modding and I always hated how ugly the Decimator looked. Now I have one that I am proud to fly after getting rid of that dopey conservatory window. It also looks a lot more aggressive now, see what I did there? 1. Cut off the fuselage, chopped it in half and glued the cockpit back after inverting it. This left a huge hole underneath so I filled it with the fuselage of a IG Aggressor and some blister card plastic to fill in the 2 holes that were left. I also relocated the flimsy turrets so they don't stick out and get bent as easily. 2. I used Acetone to try to dismantle the model so it left some really ugly melted parts that were really hard to restore. Next time I'll try to avoid using it if i can. 3. I was a bit intimidated by the size compared to the other models (looking at you Jedi) but found that it wasn't too bad. The panels make it easy to just move around and build up the shades. 4. Detailing this was quite easy too as i just picked out the small panels in green and and exposed wiring with the metal. 5. First time with Vallejo Metal Color and I absolutely agree with all the rave reviews. This paint is amazingly smooth, thin and opaque. I am considering getting rid of all my Citadel Metals. It's so smooth it feels like there is some enamel spirit in it. 6 I also got these really nice flat metal pieces from a supplementary Gundam kit to be glued on and once you prime over them they look part of the model. Great for adding more details to parts that look too flat. Black Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 dusting from the bottom Combinations of Contrast Black Templar, Contrast Basilicanum Grey, Corvus Black, Abbadon Black, Eshin Grey, Mechanicus Standard Grey and Dawnstone for some paneling Masked off stripes with Mephiston Red Black Tamiya Panel Liner Vallejo Metal Color Magnesium and Moot Green for some tiny details Lothern Blue and Ceramite White glazed for the engine glow Semi-gloss Mr Super Clear all over Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual with added Blood Angels Red for the tint Also on the Engines
  3. #74 Another quick Imperial that I forgot I had. It's a Shapeways print. Again a really simple paint. base - shade - varnish - done. Administratum Grey base Nuln Oil all over semi-gloss Mr Super Clear all over Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual
  4. @anyone that has painted the Slave I - What colors did you use? (ideally Citadel) Please share your formula if you have it recorded. I'm embarking on my own repaint after getting fed up looking at both 1.0 and 2.0 versions and thinking it can be improved.
  5. #73 Had a bit of break from X-Wing because some friends got me into Gaslands but had a game and got slaughtered by triple Silencers so remembered that I never got around to this Empire era Silencer that I wanted to do. 1. Administratum Grey + Nuln Oil = Pretty darn close Imperial Grey look. 2. Those panels on the inside are a real b!tch to get to. 3. No primer, just a matt coat because I really didn't want to paint panels. Administratum Grey base Nuln Oil all over semi-gloss Mr Super Clear all over Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual
  6. This is perfect. I have wondered the same thing and thought I was doing it wrong when my paint started getting watery and running all over the place. But I guess its right. So looks like its 4 thin layers.
  7. haha. Thanks guys. What I ended up doing was just posting on imgur and leaving it at that instead of another thread on some other forum. I jumped into Mice and Mystics and Gaslands. Much more modding and build involved as compared to XWing where I was mostly just doing paint. https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/268394-docking-bay-327-martins-painting-workshop/?do=findComment&comment=3948184
  8. Some local guys I met up with have gotten me into Gaslands so if you care to look I'll link my results there rather than post in-line. https://imgur.com/gallery/3iL929e https://imgur.com/gallery/SKUHuND A lot more build and mod vs mostly just painting for XWing. But great for practicing other new techniques.
  9. These are all brilliant. well done.
  10. Are there any rules against posting other paint jobs as part of your learning journey but on non-X-Wing ships? I've gotten into a couple other games and wanted to share those pics as well.
  11. #70-72 Set of three right here. I always thought the Kimo reminded me of the EVAs (especially 00) so it was a pretty natural scheme to follow then i found these decals and that was it. Get in the Kimo Torani! Neon Genesis Evangelion for the uninitiated. 1. The most challenging part was trying to figure out where to paint the extra lines. 2. Also first try with a metallic to freehand brush streaks. I kept the paint kind of dry-ish. Black Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer 00EVA - Yriel Yellow base, Dawnstone and White scar layer, Wild Sunz Scarlet accents 01EVA - Xereus Purple base, Warpstone Glow layer, Yriel Yellow accents 02EVA - Wild Sunz Scarlet base, Yriel Yellow and White scar layer, Warpstone Glow accents Mechanicus Standard Grey internals Abaddon Black to touchup semi-gloss Mr Super Clear all over Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual
  12. So not a ship in this post but I had this idea when I was doing some minis for Mice and Mystics and found that I only had 1 handle. So i ended up not using it when I faced a queue. So i got about thinking how to have a interchangeable head on the handle. Thats when I came across this idea. Use bottle tops and fix a standard screw top to the handle. So I can start collecting bottle caps and replace them as and when I need them. The cap in the pics has my XWing base on it.
  13. #69 This one for Capt. Phasma sat in my queue for quite a while (even before it showed up in the Hotshots pack) because I was honestly a bit scared of using the Molotow. I thought I would mess it up and am still unsure about putting on the layer of varnish incase it messes up the sheen. 1. CHROME! Best in the market from what i've seen by far. Everyone has good things to say about Molotow. The drawback is it seems to burnish very easily and become a matt silver. 2. Also it comes in pens. 1mm and 4mm for me which made it a bit challenging to use because i couldn't get into small nooks so I did a Stormhost Silver base so none of the primer poked through. 3. I actually thought the stormhost looked really good but once the Molotow went on. WOW. 4. So these pics are with no varnish on it. I will probably put a layer on once its had a couple days to cure. I tested on a scrap piece of plastic. Mr Hobby gloss Super Clear muted it completely. Aardcoat was a bit better but you can still see the difference. Then i picked up Vallejo Metal Varnish which has the least interference. If there is a big difference after it goes on i'll post an update. 5. I did a TIE ln with just Stormhost Silver side by side so you can kind of see the difference. The reflectivity only really comes across when its moving. Black Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer Gloss Mr Super Clear over the black Stormhost Silver base Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker 4mm and 1mm Abaddon Black to touchup Maybe Vallejo Metal Varnish all over
  14. Anyone have Decimator pics? Was planning on shaving off the atrium at the top and replacing the ridiculously oversized TIE cockpit at the front with a gun or something.
  15. So sorry I totally missed this! A few guys have asked me on FB and I saved my reply here: Several places. Taiwan, Tokyo, Shanghai, Singapore. So that probably isn't what you wanted to hear if you live in in US or UK but you can try to do a search for anywhere that sells Gunpla. You could also try searching for HIQ Parts. Those are the really good ones I picked up in Japan that I only just used on the Firespray. The latest is now I've been ordering Gundam ones through TaoBao here in Shanghai. The main brand here is Flaming Snow.
  16. Maybe you need to lay down a bit of primer first? I would think you also wouldn't want it to be too watery as well.
  17. #68 I got a Vaksai and saw a mech piece of art that had this dinosaur type pattern on it and it inspired me to do this version of Captain Jostero. Never wasn't really a fan of the thin tiger stripes on his ship. 1. Back to wet blending! I ended up using 5 colors for the blend but its totally key that contrast is the secret to getting a good effect. 2. Look out for hard lines and with the retarder in the mix I had plenty of time to blur those lines out. The trick was more with how to get down solid layers of color because I kept finding the primer showing through the really wet paint. 3. Used some ink in the black for the stripes and still ended up having to go over the stripes about 3 times. 4. Also tried a few different things for the grime on the bottom. Panel Line in brown, Oilbrusher with Starship Filth that was the final thing I liked after wiping it away. 5. I think this is also the first time i've used multiple shades over a color. Gray Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer Pallid Wych Flesh base Evil Sunz Scarlet - Troll Slayer Orange - Jokaero Orange - Averland Sunset - Yriel Yellow wet blend layer Abbadon Black w Liquitex Carbon Black stripes Eshin Grey and Dawnstone for undercarriage Reikland Fleshshade - Fuegan Orange - Casandora Yellow all over the top Starship Filth Oilbrush from MIG all over the underside and engines then wiped away Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual
  18. #67 Finally got around to the alt Kihraxz Fighters that I think I primed a year and half ago. I guess because the model don't have much detail on them. But then it gives some space to do some fun stuff. 1. When i was researching Yakuza designs this one kept coming up that I always thought looked cool but wasn't sure I could pull off. Even then I think i rushed it. 2. Blue is a great color to do freehand with, it flows really nicely. Especially Teclis. 3. The brush is really hard to keep a constant thickness of line on a curve. Most of those arcs have a thicker right side than a left side as mys trokes go from left to right. Don't know the secret to this yet. 4. I cheated with the crest by using a Artline pen. Gray Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer Pallid Wych Flesh base Kantor Blue layer Teclis Blue accents Eshin Grey and Dawnstone for undercarriage Nuln Oil all over the underside nand engines Ardcoat over the Abbadon Black canopy as usual
  19. #66 The other. LOL, should i add one more 6? This was awesome to watch take effect. I think at one point I actually heard the model twitch as the paint was cracking. Scorch ready for duty. 1. I loved how the fire effect turned out with the sponging. I almost wanted to stop there but i pushed forward with my concept. 2. I purposely laid down the dark red first then light red and then from the orange onwards I tried to focus on making rivers as I worked up to the brightest yellow. 3. I'm not sure about the crackle yet because initially I thought I put it on too thin but it might make more sense at this scale. I tried to heap it up more near the bottom for some variance. 4. I initially was going to work this concept with Vallejo crackle medium but I figured just dropping the technical paint would make my life easier for this first run. I can try crackle medium on something else in the future. Maybe something with more colors that aren't available from GW 5. Same thing with the window tint but seems the red takes a bit better than the blue 6. Tried a little bit of glazing OSL along the bottom of the cockpit. Maybe bit too subtle. Black Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer Mephiston Red - Wild Rider Red - Troll Slayer Orange - Flash Gitz Yellow - Dorn Yellow layer with sponge gloss Mr Super Clear all over Mordant Earth layer on thicker near the bottom Abbadon black canopy with Bloodletter glaze gloss Mr Super Clear all over
  20. #65 OK lets get technical! I did 2 of these concurrently but mostly because the wait time on the fire. But this is something i've been wanting to do is a Ice and Fire TIEs after I had these ideas with the texture paints. Lets say this one is for Wampa. 1. This was a really interesting learning curve. Ended up doing a lot of research and stuff to settle on the direction I took. 2. It's a bit strange. all the times i've done white drybrush before I ended up with really chalky rough texture effect that I really wanted on this to act as frost. Weird thing is it went on really smooth this time...sigh. 3. I laid down a bit of Mourn Mountain Snow before the Valhallan but i guess in the end it didn't make any difference. 4. Valhallan is a really interesting thing. You really need to scoop it out first then spread it. I feel like it looks overdone in the photos but at table view it looks about right. I struggled to make it look like streaks that was my intention so i mostly tried to focus it along the leading edge. 5. The window tint took a bit of playing but I figured my usual black Abaddon with Aardcoat would look flat. But even then i'm not sure the glazes made enough of a difference. White Mr Hobby Surfacer 1500 primer Ceramite White base Guilliman Blue layer Thinned Coelia Greenshade near the bottom for a bit of contrast Mourn Mountain Snow on the edges but this was all covered up Valhallan Blizzard for the amazing snow effect A bit of glazed Lothern Blue to give the snow a little bit of color Abbadon black canopy with Guilliman blue glaze gloss Mr Super Clear all over
  21. Talking with some guys on FB and I had a bit of #mindblown I've found that when trying to do detail lines, the only movement in my hands is my index finger and the brush pressed against my middle finger. My thumb actually doesn't move. Everything else, both hands, elbows, palms pressed together is stationary and braced against the table or my chest. It's exactly how I hold my chopsticks. Only the upper chopstick is moving and that's my brush. Maybe that will help someone too.
  22. Absolutely. Thats what the thread is for. Share my process and learnings so that anyone else can benefit from it as well.
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