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Posts posted by MajSharpe

  1. 4 hours ago, mcworrell said:

    After painting almost all of my rebel fighters and some of my Imp fighters, I started thinking that it would be nice if my CR90's looked different from each other when on the table together.  So, I have a question for all of you guys that do such fantastic work when painting ships.

    What steps do I have to follow to do this? I was thinking of keeping it really simple, such as making the current markings on the ship blue or green instead of the standard red. Do I need to do any prep work other then washing the model before painting it?  Will the current paint take new paint over it or will it look bad? 

    Any input you guys have would be much appreciated.

    For a touch-up job, all I do is wash in mildly soapy water and allow to dry thoroughly after a good rinse in clean water.  Using normal modelling acrylics (vallejo in my case), you can just paint over the existing surface, but it's not 100% durable and you might find you need to do little repairs from time to time.  On Rebel ships this usually works anyway.

    For a full respray, I prime with a proper primer appropriate to the intended colour, and usually go with a matt varnish afterwards too.

  2. 12 hours ago, Irokenics said:


    yeah i did mention the models were gritty. Not sure what i ordered, whatever was the default one!

    Definitely WSF then - it's totally serviceable, at tabletop length, but as many others have noted it's very hard to achieve a good paint job as the material is extremely porous, and it doesn't hold the fine details that Mel lavishes us with.  That being said, there's absolutely no reason to shell out for Extreme detail, Ultra is the highest I ever go and it's perfectly good.

    There's a few threads here and elsewhere about getting the absolute best out of your WSF minis, but they all involve lots of really fine detail work with filter etc.  As is, you've done a grand job, I had to battle to get my freighters looking even half-decent.

  3. On 4/5/2017 at 5:08 AM, Darthain said:

    I've taken real pictures of my ISD mulligan on highlighting, as well as the liberty, lancers, and decimators!. 

    But I haven't processed them yet.  Here are some pics of an arquittens I painted yesterday/today.  A bit of a style departure, and a lot more effort than I usually put into gradients and blending, hey I blended (that's different!)







    That is one seriously cool Light Cruisers.  Either that's a some sort of Royal flagship, or Slaanesh has invaded another dimension.

  4. 12 minutes ago, Nostromoid said:

    I'm no artist, but the creator of Black 2.0 (linked above) sells the stuff as bottled paint. Unlike actual Vantablack, which is a patented process that is only done on commission by the owning company. Would Black 2.0 even work if just brushed onto wood or vinyl surfaces? I'm slowly talking myself into testing out a bottle of the stuff, and see what it would take to get a 6x3 coating.

    Well you've got to self-certify that you're not Anish Kapoor first ;-)  (plus the Yellow from the same artist looks pretty special, you'd have to do a space guppy in that)


    (edit; I've just ordered some from Stuart Semple.  Comments below on what I deploy it on?  Please do not comment on my total lack of self-control, I know :-D )

  5. 2 hours ago, C6248 said:

    The problem with a vantablack play mat is portability. 

    Last I heard, it works by bonding carbon nanotubes to an aluminum substrate. Kinda hard to roll and unroll sheets of metal unless they are thin to the point of tearing ala aluminum foil. 

    Then of course there's the cost of making something so large. If I recall correctly, you have to flood the surface with a certain kind of gas and heat it very evenly for the nanotubes to form and adhere. You could buy a lot of ships with what it'd cost to make something like that. Never mind the licensing fees. 

    It would be the coolest possible mat ever though. The ship stands would look nice coated with the stuff as well. Against the mat, they'd be completely invisible to the human eye. 

    One thing I don't know is how durable the coating is. Carbon nanotubes are one of the strongest materials on Earth. But if even one of those carbons is swapped with something else the structure can literally tear itself apart. Maybe with such a thin layer that's not such a big issue? I know it's the major flaw inhibiting the whole space elevator thing. 

    Well... making a cast aluminium duplicate of an ISD isn't *completely* impossible, just time-consuming and exceptionally uneconomical... it'd be a very very expensive vantablack ISD ;-) 

    Goshdarnit I want one!

  6. Well this is filling a niche that... er... *checks age (god I feel old* *does math*  12-13 year old me REAAAAAALLY wanted.  Model Dreadnoughts, model lancers, all those good and wonderful things that X-Wing, TIE Fighter and X-Wing Alliance along with the whole EU catalogue and then to a lesser extend (because WTF is a Tartan Cruiser?!) Empire At War introduced.  I still play EaW, quite a lot (the Thrawn's Revenge Mod is epic), but to be able to hold in my hands, paint, and generally play with some of these things taps a part of me which I will never let go of.  Because I don't want to be a boring old fart with a mortgage, insurance and an opinion on Capital Gains or Income tax.  

    So kudos to Mel, and all the other model makers, designers, creatives and dreamers who let me dream a bit more myself.

    Having set that if Mel would like to get into processing Shapeways high quality prototypes (I was thinking metals) into pressure-cast resin replicas to increase volume + profit, I'd totally entertain being a part of that.  I've never been a good enough scratch modelmaker to do it myself.

  7. 59 minutes ago, Altahara said:

    Very disappointed in my shapeways order... got one dreadnaught. And one lancer... pics will come soon. But...




    Omg, I should have ordered more!!! Ahahaha.  Sorry. Love it. Came quicker than expected. And the quality, even the lower quality lancer was awesome. Thanks Mel

    I'm only ever disappointed when I check my credit card statement ;-)

  8. 49 minutes ago, Darthain said:

    This is pretty confusing as priming is about prepping a surface for adhesion, it has nothing to do with pigment and colour.  Primers are not the base coat, in fact a lot of them behave very poorly if forced to be, rough, lose tack, etc.

    Of course for some Alliance ships, having the paint peeling off is a desirable thing...

  9. This is the inverse of my "Imperial Star Destroyer White" technique, which looks great in daylight but my camera hates.

    To do the white:  Spray in Vallejo Cold Grey.  Ink wash (1:10 black ink to water).  Dry overnight.  Recolour panels carefully with Wolf Grey.  Apply a 75% highlight from the bottom in Ghost Grey.  Apply a 25% highlight from the bottom in Glacier Blue.  Gives a really strong 'Rogue One' white feel.  




    Here the inverse is achieved, pre-washing with a red/black mix ala ISD Dark Side - the washes are definitely necessary on the darker colours to blend them in together, in the white I haven't found it necessary - all my "non local" death triangles get the white treatment, from Light Cruiser up.  Interested to see how it'll look on the Quasar Fire.

    For the greys here, an undercoat of black primer, a general overcoat of Heavy Charcoal, and a 25% highlight in heavy blue/grey.  I like the heavy pigment paints when working on the darker side, they overcome the background where you need them to, and thin quite nicely to a glaze too.



  10. Well given the really interesting (if sadly predictable!) tactics for the Hammerhead, I might pick up 2-3 of them and go for a 'Divine Wind' list.  The Quasar-Fire?  Just one to begin with I think, and see how it performs.  It doesn't get much more space-triangly than that though, does it :-D

    (I'd be interested to see if anyone has views on integrating a QF into a reb fleet, too... not for any particular reason of course, no spoilers here ;-) )

  11. Oh I'm no Vykes, I leave such intricacies to those excellent and dedicated commission painters who make a living off these beautiful things.  Tabletop ready has always been good enough for me, one of the early lessons my 40K collection taught me (at some expense in Imperial Guardsmen, I might add) was when to stop.  My background is more 1:35 scale models, so I shoot for that sort of look'n'feel, generally...  

    mmm, KV-2 style soviet'd guppy, you say... mmmmmm...

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