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Commander Klank

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Everything posted by Commander Klank

  1. Pro Tip... if you get the ship in FUD be sure to set it out in good direct sunlight for about 6 to 8 hours... this helps to completely cure the FUD material (they use ultra violate light to cure the material after the print) and leaches out the last of the oils that seep from the material. And no, to won't' melt; I take my stuff to work and leave it on a paper towel on the dashboard of my car all day long in the Texas sun. It turns the material from clear to milky white and removes the oil resin from the model so painting it isn't as complicated as it can sometimes get with FUD. When I do this the paper towel always has an oil stain under it... which is why I use paper towels on my dashboard. I then scrub my stuff in simple green with hot water. Here is a simple test. Before you sun treat it rub you finger over a large flat area of the model; you'll feel the slippery oil on it... after you sun treat it and clean it off that area should fell squeaky clean. Trust me on this. I do tons of stuff in FUD for a few years now... ships and 15mm tanks. 15mm FUD tank... E-100 FUD Imperial Cruisers
  2. Base model is the Star Wars™ SnapTite® Build and Play Imperial Star Destroyer by Revell https://www.revell.com/model-kits/entertainment/85-1638.html#.WsbaMGeouUk I use the bridge from Mels ISD 1 conversion kit. This bridge design and size was used on all Imperial ships ISD size or larger. https://www.shapeways.com/product/YLQ9P2PZ4/armada-imperial-star-destroyer-i-mod-kit?optionId=59918502 allot of the turrets are from here... https://www.shapeways.com/shops/spacesupplydepot and here... https://www.shapeways.com/shops/einargosric Dome and other bits form here... https://www.shapeways.com/product/PXMTCRLJB/mulcien-ship-parts?optionId=42962753&li=ostatus Your around $100 with that stuff... Here is my first ship the Leviathan class Star Destroyer Leviathan next to a ISD and a Victory . These ships are about 3200 meters https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16425882_1378291658901389_5582425903134458144_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeEHUVtBw9LiMngKoUzcahPbVQWJwxfTtIAGbq34oTPq8Rt9Lhxt0Mc6vbBqnxgI9KZdDb_ESPK3VSVK4bj7CfiTRZD6x0LeYaoOdVkqshyGLQ&oh=f46fb28d93d81676e01cdace8af2d6c8&oe=5B693D8A
  3. From Revell ISD model.... top side construction... https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/29745081_1826514217412462_2853910105721409187_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeHc12xwgntXHAcMPkghPWC8y4A75ad8PIg1coqN4SKOZJMexKoNTwoYEx2Lr0_heSPcJiEFvfYTWrw_lWPlixhhTAmxMvWuPfVBkuoEKWol6w&oh=d5c2c8c89d6b3be5a73243879052bb5e&oe=5B632832 https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/29749495_1826514377412446_7546833167886130094_o.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeEZkXC3utOFfpixf_DrCMLAEd8Ml3xIfb7FFTscYhiv4a8OeLLxNgMZ7O9EBmik4gB2aXAlLh3N2-sgitCTBBCihIKPMXS30267pXyba7SMmQ&oh=066b1701b20d295d7d96ada5597f141a&oe=5B2EBBB5 https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/29792527_1826514774079073_1522702515520549030_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeEIgQSl_8K--a114zzKwMCbq6RHxPBTqUbZBhC3MMvg-ZAWQXaDHwg5LpIDUwGatqrB32FR6wmD4-NOlYL7ICmIMamCRygvXon2uj4P1HWMAQ&oh=f541eae4b0ba4535c99a5bdf2f7372a3&oe=5B68EAE4 https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/29790461_1826514674079083_7009863008141727018_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeEPjVHFOYLQ0-P6NqGRPaKguXXV2WNnQxjIU2CWfuYZBt7HDb5w2FnbON3IBUF92Z9s9INXVJojbt6fNUJOcE48sC-wpgXZHg3khdtQidMdbA&oh=6a7ee8d85b83b813a3a3fc1c2b2cbed8&oe=5B2CE67D
  4. Pro tip: It's the resin oil from uncured FUD material. They cure the stuff in ultra violet light after printing. This is not always 100% so let the parts sit in direct sun light for at least an hour or two... this cures the FUD resin all the way trough and sweats out any remaining oils from the material. Then wash the parts in simple green and rinse in hot water. Trust me on this...
  5. It's the thought that counts, right and why not on "smaller big ships"?... Pattern is made painting base coat then taping over it and spraying the next color, rinse and repeat. This ship is Mels 1/7000 Vindicator with a modified bridge (using BFG bits) a dual turbo-blaster turret added to the front for effect. It makes an excellent "light" class Star Destroyer. It will have a little more beef to than other ships of it's class. Base colors only for now.
  6. I think Fractalsponge's model would make an awesome VSD mk3... I wish Mel would get with him and see if he'd let him make it for us. I'd buy one for sure just to have it. Perhaps he could make two versions... one with the missile bays opened and the other with them closed. But, sadly, I suspect it's wishful thinking on our part.
  7. LOL I was actually brain farting around with the idea of having the front detach form the rest of the ship to make a SD type escort ship... when the escort ship separates it exposes a huge hanger bay opening in the front making the larger rear section a strike carrier; imagine a gigantic Gladiator SD with an Imperial SD escort built into it. @gounourYeah, its like 23 inches long and will fit on a 4x6 table. It's moment will be 1 with 1 turn in it. Of course it would only be used in special games.
  8. Got the model today and it's going to be an awesome project. Next to my Leviathan class Star Destroyer and an ISDII... it's about 6,000 meters. The front section is bigger that a ISD...LOL More to follow
  9. Big time mods... It will have an armada scaled bridge and other features like clusters of turbo blaster turrets and such. I'm also going to get some of the decking parts 3d printed with mods to them to fit Armada scale turrets and stuff... I might redo the back engine bit as well Here is the scale... the Revell SD I use for the Leviathan/Nemesis class Star Destroyer (3200 meters) inside the Zvezda model. This will be a deradnought class Star Destroyer (all be ti on the smaller side of that class). It will be a huge ship built to fight and destroy groups of smaller ships.
  10. Just when you thought Leviathan and its sister ship where the bane of the rebellion along comes project "Blue Bonnet" ... the next generation Star Destroyer built on the concept of a massive ship designed to fight and destroy a fleets of smaller ships. The ship will be about 4000 meters armada SD scale. Zvezda Star Wars 9057 Imperial Star Destroyer 1/2700 scale model kit I just bought on E-bay. I ordered one today.
  11. Oh and the rearward two center turrets are raised up on 1/8 plastic tubes drilled into the hull...
  12. A Command Star Destroyer (1,200 meters) built from the Interdictor Star Destroyer hull. The gravity wells were removed and replaced with enhanced sensor domes for better command and control functions. The powerful reactor used on the Interdictor allowed for more power to it's weapons and sensors making this ship a powerful command ship that can fight as well as command. The model is Mel's 1/4000 scale (now unavailable) Vindicator in FUD. Turrets are Gosric's and the sensor towers and domes are Mulcien Ship Parts . I used Tamya masking tape to make the edging... much better than free handing it with my now shaky old hands. (sigh)
  13. Here is the Corvan Pandyras Class Corvette...
  14. I got mine a few days ago and they are awesome... here are a few on two of Gosric's Imperial light cruiser models I customized up a bit... they make excellent secondaries on the bigger capital ships and great primaries on cruisers and stuff. Gosric's turrets are on the forward side positions in the center of the battery... top is the quad turret , bottom is the triple turret.
  15. Here are some of his ships I've painted up....
  16. The Vexatus Imperial Light Cruiser is going to be oozing with death-pizza-slice awesomeness... just saying. If you got an Imperial fleet your going to want at least one of these. Like I've said before Gosric's shapeway workshop has allot of non FFG wave rebel frigate class ships. So keep an eye out for some really cool stuff to come along.
  17. This... I love the weathered/been out on deployment a long time look. After a long patrol the first stop at the star base should be the ship wash... LOL
  18. No, fixed. I let some of the shade build up on some of the panel edges. It gives the model a dirty used look that I like, I also dry brush over it so that is not the final look. The problem I was having was where the wash would bead up like water on a treated windshield (if you ever saw that). It would just roll around in drops. Here is the top side done the same way... again I prefer the "used out in space" look for my ships. Part of the story line for my Imperials is they do allot of anti piracy/smuggling operations and so they spend allot of time in and around nebula and asteroid formations looking for hideouts and such. Hence their hulls collect allot of space dust.
  19. I was having the problem of the wash (nul oil) beading up on the surface and not spreading out on some areas of my models... and this was after a few good cleanings in hot soapy water with a old soft toothbrush. Adding clear Pledge acrylic floor polish to the wash has fixed that problem.
  20. The Big V is painting up real good... just washed the top and it looks great just with that done....LOL I'm letting that dry before I hit it with the dry brushing.
  21. Well I'm 57 and I'm at that point in life where this would be well within the "I could afford that if I wanted it" zone... (I'm not bragging, I'm just saying). The FFG model is great; I just want a bad-assed version of the ISD on the board that is unique from what everyone else has. Anyways I doubt Mel would do it; he's said that before and he is busy making all those cool ships FFG don't have in their inventory. Speaking of Mel hares the big Vindicator model WIP he wanted to see... this is the bottom with just a base coat of light gray and a wash of GW nul oil (with Pledge floor polish added in). As you can see it turned out just fine. The pinholes sanded off well enough but there were so many I just said frack it and sanded the whole bottom smooth with sanding sticks. This removed most of the tiny squares (surface detail) that were spread out over the surface of the ship. I then cut little squares and other shapes and glued them to the surface to get back some of that type of detail. At no time were the paneling detail lines at risk, which is what I suspect Mel was concerned about. Sooo, as you can see, if Mel did do the custom ISD and you got it in BHDA to save some money the bottom would be manageable for a modeler with some experience and time under his belt. It would just involve "a ****-ton", to quote The Walking Dead's Negan, of filing and sanding. You'd then have to add back some surface detail like I did with sheet plastic.
  22. I really wish you'd make a regular star Destroyer from that model by getting rid of the sphere and filling in the open area with SD structure.
  23. I found my answer and got a bottle that will last my life time....LOL
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