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  1. +1 for chasing a giant dragon around the board. Some sort of automated movement rules would have to be whipped up if you couldn't find someone to play the dragon. But that's been done before so it shouldn't prove too difficult. It would be a lot of fun to negotiate chasing a dragon while fending off opponents and trying not to get tabled by the dragon.
  2. I like Hawkman's witch hunter idea. A sort of Solomon Kane/Geralt of Rivia/Bloodborne's hunters lightly armored elite scout style unit. Theme wise, I'd like Daqan to remain largely mundane as far as foot soldiers go. Wizards few and far between, at least for a while, and relying on magic constructs like golems for the bulk of their magical support. Similar to the wraiths they'd have a small max unit size. Focus on mobility. Limited to no ranged damage so they're not overlapping too much with a similar Latari unit down the line. High defense against ranged attacks and not much melee damage outside of special upgrade abilities. Basically a unit for hunting down other scout units and/or chasing objective tokens. A similar Uthuk idea might be a living bomb. A unit with high mobility and no defense or damage outside of one life ending explosion ability that has crazy aoe. For objective hunting you can just rely on it's speed. There'd obviously need to be a way of limiting someone from making an entire army of bombs save one cheap unit that they hold back from the nukes. Though that could also be a lot of fun to play against.
  3. A little late, but I just got my elves. I was kinda whatever about them, but then I noticed, they sculpted them to actually be in a proper archery stance! The one mid release even has the hand positioned correctly! And no stupid back quivers! Haven't played them yet, but danged if that didn't make me super excited for elves specifically and the game generally. Also the wraiths are really cool and I'm pumped for a some wraiths and death knights blasting across the battlefield forming terrifying pincer attacks.
  4. You should hit the cloth bits with some blacks and grays on the outsides to give them a singed/charred look. Really great looking lava though.
  5. No, definitely a worm species. I'm just terrible at recalling names. If you're ever out in the woods around the eastern part of the US and you see a bare patch of soil that looks a bit like the blighted terrain tile (minus the purple coloration), there's a good chance you're looking at the work of said worms.
  6. Some invasive worm species in the US greeble up the soil in a way that looks similar to that terrain. Incidentally, this process makes it harder for native species to take root and grow. So they do sorta blight the terrain. Seems kind of fitting considering the carrion crawlers are a thing. Having a hard time finding an image of the soil for you though. Think like mammatus clouds, but in the dirt. Might be cool to paint the terrain that way, bright greens and purples in the valleys, dark browns, grays, and black on the hills. Bones and dead trees littered about.
  7. My gut says no. Though they're doing a number of things different with RWMG than their other minis games, so at this point only FFG can say for sure (and probably they don't even know yet as they're probably still gathering data on sales figures, researching demand, figuring out production schedules for getting the other armies out the door etc.) If you're really invested in buying the game and the only thing stopping you is the humans. Mod the humans. Make them into a bunch of alternate sculpts in your skeleton army. You can go dead easy and just paint both armies in the same color scheme (think more zombie than skele), you can go all out with carving, sculpting, and kit bashing, or you can find a nice mix of the two extremes. It's a bit of work and you may not be down for it but it gets you playing the game sooner and you get a really cool and unique army out of it.
  8. You can go way cheaper than this if all you're interested in is base coating/priming. There are kits for under $100 on Amazon. If you pick and choose and hunt for one off deals instead of going the kit route you can go even cheaper. Consider how much a can of spray paint is. 10-20 cans and you've more than payed for a cheap airbrush set. In the long term it's the cheaper route since there's less paint waste and the equipment can last you a good while as long as you take care of it. I would recommend only using these sets and brushes for base coating as they don't do anything close to detail. I have a fairly expensive airbrush set up (around $600) but I still use a cheapola wide nozzle brush for priming and base coating. If you do go this route, the first upgrade I'd recommend is an air tank. The sets you can get on Amazon don't have a tank which means your air supply is whatever is in your hose. Not great, but if I can make do I believe you can too.
  9. There's a chance they'll do multi-tray sized figures if the game is successful enough, at least, I wouldn't put it past them. Max spearmen is nine trays. It's a pretty big footprint. I don't think we'll see one unit which is that large, but I can imagine 2-4 tray units easy.
  10. The archers are tough because you expect their arms to be higher. You start in at an angle where the drawn string will be around cheek level like it's supposed to be, but they're mostly drawn at around chest height. I literally solved all my problems with putting them together by ceasing to worry about what was "right" and just angling them low while inserting the pegs. No shaving flash or anything required, just start at a low angle and work your way up and in. Not a fan of putting together the undead in general, lots of pointy bits poking into my fleshy bits while trying to support spindly legs during various assembly procedures. Jamming the carrion crawler's face into it's neck hole is particularly unpleasant. No real grip area on the side so you're thumb is bearing down on spikes. Not great. Kari requires you to wedge her quiver in between her cape and shoulder. Look at her right shoulder blade from behind to make sure you've seated her head properly once you get the cape jammed into the quiver.
  11. You could probably get away with doing the undercoats in a standard matte black, then give it a top coat or two of black 2.0. Save a couple bucks maybe, though I have no idea what the requirements are for that paint to really take effect, so this is pure speculation.
  12. Do a 'going stealth' transition on a couple Phantoms.
  13. The problem with a vantablack play mat is portability. Last I heard, it works by bonding carbon nanotubes to an aluminum substrate. Kinda hard to roll and unroll sheets of metal unless they are thin to the point of tearing ala aluminum foil. Then of course there's the cost of making something so large. If I recall correctly, you have to flood the surface with a certain kind of gas and heat it very evenly for the nanotubes to form and adhere. You could buy a lot of ships with what it'd cost to make something like that. Never mind the licensing fees. It would be the coolest possible mat ever though. The ship stands would look nice coated with the stuff as well. Against the mat, they'd be completely invisible to the human eye. One thing I don't know is how durable the coating is. Carbon nanotubes are one of the strongest materials on Earth. But if even one of those carbons is swapped with something else the structure can literally tear itself apart. Maybe with such a thin layer that's not such a big issue? I know it's the major flaw inhibiting the whole space elevator thing.
  14. I wouldn't go with rare earths. They can be a pain to remove if you decide you want to. I'd go with sheet magnets. You can get a pack at any office supply store. They're easy to pull up, thin so they don't stand way off the surface, and much less likely to break if you happen to drop/two magnets clack together. Just put the stickers on the sheet and cut them out with scissors or an exacto. A circular punch and die works well if you have one. I used a small cookie cutter and a hammer.
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