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About ThatRobHuman

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    Central NJ

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  1. So, for all my conversions, I took the keyhole off of some armada ships, dumped some molding-silicone around it, yoinked it out the keyway after the silicone is cured, and poured in some urethane resin in the void left behind. Once the resin has cured, I have myself a keyhole. I tend to make about half a dozen at a go.
  2. Wierdness... I'll have a look. and yeah, v2 is coming, but it's taken a back burner due to life - spending 5.5 hours per day commuting right now kinda puts a damper on fun things.
  3. AFAIK, the rules seem to specify that a dot next to a character's name means that they can't appear more than once. So no officer Lando and no Squadron Lando - of course... but I'm curious about how the rules actually reflect having Han Solo in the Millenium Falcon as well as Lando in the Millenium Falcon in the same fleet...
  4. Exactly this - I'm cool with how this has played out.
  5. *pops into thread... realizes it's a zombie... leaves unceremoniously*
  6. Correct, all his stuff has been reposted on KDY
  7. Meh? I'm not a stickler for linear scale, so I'd rather just invest in models that fit the semi-exponential curve scale and call it good.
  8. https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mihi?section=HALO&s=0
  9. Naw, I was asking the right question - I don't mind the split FUD design. I can make that work better than I can make a not-as-good WSF print work.
  10. I'm really thinking of getting a Bellator for myself when the lease is up on my apartment and I have some new cashflow. I've only gotten FUD for Mel's ships. How well does the WSF hold up to FFG's models in terms of detail?
  11. Thanks for stopping by! Is there another medium that you'd recommend that would give a thin curved surface, then? In thinking about it more, I'm not going to do the Viscount first go, but rather going to give a modified Protoss Carrier a go first.
  12. Legit! I'll have to give it whirl next time I stop by Home Depot or Lowes (I don't have any XPS at home). In the mean time, I found some good greebles to cast, so I've just poured a silicone mold around the masters. For those looking in the future, I really like using Smooth-On's SmoothCast Onyx or SmoothCast 300 for parts - you can make a mold to pour the smoothcast into by using something like Smooth-On's MoldStar line (basically any Platinum-cured silicone - I like the Moldstar 25 the most - you don't want to use Tin-cured as the urethane resin and it don't get along too well).
  13. Right on! I'll do my prototype master in XPS foam and see how a first pill comes out.
  14. Okay, last question: Will insulation foam stand up to multiple pulls out is this a lost master situation? If it is, I might need to carve it from layers of renshape or MDF.
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