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Mr Tough Guy

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Everything posted by Mr Tough Guy

  1. Company B has a service that does custom decals: http://www.companyb.biz/ But if you're only after 1 decall for a single ship, that might be a bit too costly, you can always buy decal paper and print your own, which is probably a lot simpler and cheaper
  2. It really doesn't matter much, use whatever you can find and is small enough, just make sure you match the size of the drillbit to the size of the wire you use. Personally I mostly use paperclips as they're easy to come by, and come in a few sizes, I just buy the drill bits to match those.
  3. When I did my research to buy an airbrush both Iwata and harder & Steenbeck were the ones recommended to me, they're both excellent quality, but depending on where you live parts may be easier to source for one over the other, H&S for Europe, Iwata for USA, since I'm in the Netherlands I got an H&S evolution, and am very happy with it. As for a compressor, I got an AS-186, this is the one that was recommended to me: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Compressor-Double-Action-Airbrushes/dp/B074QTDVBW But shipping was very high so I found something similar without the airbrushes locally for a similar price with free shipping. Just look for an AS186
  4. Contact FFG customerservice and they should sent you the correct parts https://parts.asmodeena.com/partsrequests/
  5. Did a quick pic in photoshop to show how I would do it, I would take of the wings and drill a hole straight through the body (in blue) then connect the wings with a pin (in green) through the hole in the body, this will allow the wings to rotate along the (blue) axis. If the hole and pin are the same size friction will keep them in place, but more than likely they won't stay in place, so I'd add a few sets of magnets to either sides of the hole and pin to keep it all in place . in hindsight I'd probably not put the magnets as close to the hole as I drew in the pic, but you get the idea, just keep both pairs to an equal length away from the axis and with the polarity at the same side so they stick at both orientations
  6. For an airbrush the advice I've been given was get an Iwata if you're in the US and a Harder & Steenbeck if you're in Europe, the quality of those should be similar but sourcing parts will be easier, although from what I've heard the H&S is slightly easier to clean, I've got a H&S evolution myself, bought it December, and while I've used it a bit, I still haven't had the time to properly try it out yet, so I'm no expert, but I did do a lot of research before buying it. As for a compressor you don't need something specifically for an airbrush but you do want something with at least a regulator and a moisture trap. I've got an AS186 for about $80 works like a charm
  7. All my rebels have a Rebel Alliance starbird symbol painted on somewhere, I don't know how confident you are in your paintskills, but with a bit of practise it's really not that hard, although ymmv The Rodian and the second from the right have theirs on their back packs
  8. Nice that's exactly how I was planning to do my Fett, just haven't had the time to build the phase pulse rifle yet, where did yours come from?
  9. Aren't the vehicles already cast in HIPS, at least I used plastic cement to glue together the vehicles from the core (apart from the drivers/riders which where PVC like the rest), so I would assume that's the way they would go forward with the rest if they changed to "hard plastic". But I guess you're right not to assume anything untill we have the final product in hand.
  10. One thing I Always do is before glueing the mini, is take a mug of hot water, assemble the mini and chuck it in the water for a few minutes, the hot water softens the plastic and will give you a better fit especially if you press down a bit you can remove most gaps, this is worked for so far and I haven't had to take out the greenstuff yet
  11. Here's even better news, you don't even have to sculpt them, just look for Quest miniatures on etsy
  12. To post pics from imgur copy the direct link URL then on the forum insert other media and pick insert image from URL and past the link Another option is and that will also work with other filehosts is to right click the image, press properties and copy the Address (URL) and again insert the image from URL in the forum Hope that helps, I usually never click on links, if you can't be bothered to post a pic, I can't be bothered to click a link
  13. Still working on mine, but I think the easiest way to make him look better is to redo the hair, a bit more putty to hide that receding hairline does a lot IMHO, a second quick and easy fix is to reposition his left arm like @Matroskin did, the trenchcoat you can take or leave, but if you shorten it, it will be a lot of work to fix it, you'll need to resculpt his right leg and add his holster. There is one more option, Brother Vinnie did a Han Solo sized for Legion, although personally I wouldn't say it's necessarily better than the FFG one, it does have the bonus of having his iconic clothes instead of the trenchcoat, but IMHO the pose looks a bit like he's about to take a dump
  14. Look for a Kolinsky sable brush, the Windsor and Newton series 7 is seen by most as the best brush for mini painting , Personally I use the slightly cheaper Rosemary and Co series 33, I do have a W & N series 7 somewhere but I do the bulk with the R & C series 33, what's important though is to take care of your brush, if you don't you might as well buy something cheap and synthetic, mind you I've painted with cheap synthetic brushes for over a decade before switching to a kolinsky Sable, A kolinsky Sable is just better at holding a tip if you treat it right.
  15. Started painting my second squad of Rebels, going for a slighty less bright scheme, and started with a Rodian again, the skintone was inspired by the Rodian from Solo
  16. Wildrider and Breakdown for my Decepticon themed Scum
  17. Brobots Rumble and Frenzy for my Decepticon themed Scum
  18. Started converting my Han Solo, as I didn't really like the FFG version, decided to try and make something a bit different but hopefully screen accurate started by cutting down the jacket and removing a large chunk of hair so I can resculpt it, as the parting the hair was on the wrong side for what I want, also removed the collar from the jacket Then started with the greenstuff, filled in the missing part of his leg that was originally hidden by the jacket, started on the hair finished the hair, also filled in his eyes, first mini I've ever seen with holes instead of eyes, just put a bit of greenstuff in so I can actually paint the eyes, removed the stripe from his pants sculpted some detail on his shirt and used a bit of plastirod to make some code cilinders, will finish them of with greenstuff so still need to resculpt his holster, clean up the collar of the jacket, but he's starting to look like what I have in mind, might still reposition his left arm a bit, wonder if it will look better if his pose is a bit less extreme
  19. Took me while but finally finished my first unit of stormtroopers
  20. Don't know how accurate the reports are but they're saying that they're looking at Pedro Pascal for the lead, so I imagine this will not be primarily about Sabine but a new male Mandalorian
  21. So this looks like this will be great for Legion as a source of potential minis
  22. First details for Jon Favreau's Live action Star Wars tv series: https://www.instagram.com/p/BofTUzhBtrZ/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
  23. I thought it was Rob Hawkins, he did do a few tables for FFG, but I can't find a build for Tatooine on his blog, so maybe it was somebody else, or I'm just not looking hard enough. I did find builds for his Hoth, Lothal and Sullust tables though https://robhawkinshobby.blogspot.com/2018/05/star-wars-scenery-showcase-hoth.html?m=1 https://robhawkinshobby.blogspot.com/2017/10/star-wars-scenery-showcase-lothol.html?m=1 https://robhawkinshobby.blogspot.com/2017/10/star-wars-scenery-showcase-sullust.html?m=1
  24. I'd say either greenstuff or milliput, or a combination of both, depending on your needs, greenstuff stays somewhat elastic once cured, there's a bit of a learning curve to get the best out of it though, milliput can be sanded or drilled after it's cured and is cheaper so is suited for bulky stuff or bases where detail is less important, you can always mix them to get the best of both. not sure why you would need it to be flexible though if it's just to embed some washers
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