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JBar

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  1. Like
    JBar got a reaction from ArcticJedi in July Terrain Challenge   
    The goal in making my terrain was first and foremost to make something easy to play on. That means, no hills for miniatures to fall over on, no sand that crumbles when you handle it, no super tall things that fall over, etc. I also want to walk the fine line between durability and looks. I think I found a happy medium. All this stuff is super robust and I tried to give some tactical variety:
    Height 2 rockwalls

    Heavy cover
     

    Light cover

    Difficult terrain

    More line of sight blocking
     
    Here it all is. I wonder if that meets the quota of "enough terrain" for competitive play. I might add some more line of sight blocking 3d printed spires (gotta stop those snipers!)

     
  2. Like
    JBar got a reaction from SFC Snuffy in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    So, looking at my terrain, I'm really happy with it, but I don't think it has enough iconic Geonocian spires. I think I'm going to make some more spires, but if I do I'll have enough terrain for either two boards at once, or plenty of terrain variance which is also good for mixing things up. So here are my plans: I found two great sites that make 3d printed spires. I could make my own, but I'm kinda finished cutting foam haha. I found some great 3d prints from Imperial Terrain and Etsy:
    Imperial Terrain

    Fun Board Games Etsy
    Line of sight blockers

    Some barricades to replace the core set
     
    And I just found another Etsy page called Low Country 3d Printing

    I'm on a budget with my miniatures so I'll have to save up for a month or two, but my plan is after I get these I'll use a painting similar to my previous post. I'll probably add a heavy glue/filler coat over this terrain to fill the 3d print lines. The painting process will be the same
     
  3. Like
    JBar reacted to ArcticJedi in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    @JBar Your Galactic Marines look awesome! The terrain looks like it's turning out nicely. You should try making some canyon's and put the wing in there, or make a mountain hangar/base and put the wing piece on the mountain. It'll maybe make it look nicer.
  4. Thanks
    JBar reacted to Gridloc in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    Wow, these are the 3 places i recently went to as I construct my Geonosis board in prep for CW release.   All three have been amazing print and though i didn't print too much from low country, really liked their pillars.  I've followed this thread for a while and love the color palette, so snagged it for my board.  I'll throw up pics once i get it all painted up. 
  5. Like
    JBar got a reaction from Gridloc in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    Another update. I wanted to add one more piece of difficult terrain and light cover to the board. While I was at it, I made a more detailed guide to my terrain process:
    1. I cut out 1/8" sign board into the basing shapes I wanted using a scalpel (always cut away from your body!). Then I simply hot glued on the big rocks

    2. I used some Elmer's glue to glue one some smaller rocks in random areas. I used smaller, flatter rocks for the light cover piece so that it would be more flat for miniatures to walk along. The difficult terrain piece will be filled with putty so it won't matter that the rocks are bigger, stick up, and are in the way.

    3. You can use any sort of putty or paper mache here. I used some paper mache I found at Michaels where you just add water and it dries solid. I only filled the base for the difficult terrain. I let this dry for at least a day. While it is drying, you might want to bend the base here and there so that it dries flat. Paper mache shrinks slightly as it dries.

    4. I made a tin foil plate and mixed sand, Elmer's glue, and some water to make a paste. I smeared this all over the bases




    5. Once dry, I added some more Elmer's glue in areas concentrated around the big rocks. I sprinkled larger grains of sand in those areas. Lastly, I soaked a brush full of Elmer's glue and water and dabbed it all over the sand so that it would seal and harden


    6. On to the painting. I waited a day for all this to dry on a flat surface. Every now and then I would bend the bases so that they dry flat. If anything cracked while I bent them, I just refilled the cracks with more glue and sand. I sprayed the bases with Rustoleum Spiced Amber. I found out that if you don't spray the bases, it will be very hard to paint all the little porous holes that the sand creates. I think any orange or red color will work. I chose this color because it's all I had. Let this dry for at least a day (I got away with 2 hours but a day is smarter)

    8. I put a heavy layer or two of Craft Smart's French Wine found at Michael's. Generally, I use the premium paints that Craft Smart offers because I think they're more durable for a few more cents. I filled any hard to get areas with a little Agrax Earthshade.

    7. Next, I used a heavy drybrush of Liquitex Red Oxide. Michael's is going out of stock of this product, but I found that Craft Smart's Burnt Orange is the same color also found at Michaels. Don't go too heavy or you will lose some depth of the previous layer. I used a paper towel to soak up some of the paint on the brush.

    8. Then I did a LIGHT drybrush of Naples Yellow Hue (I actually mixed this with Red Oxide for an extra in second drybrush layer but that step is optional). I can't stress the word "light" enough. This is a bright highlight and it can be really easy to over do it. Use plenty of paper towels to soak up 95% of the paint on the brush. I wiped the brush against my hand and if any paint rubbed off at all, there was too much paint on the brush. Brush this all over the bases a couple times over, especially in the raised areas.
    9. Finally Spray the bases with a sealant so that it doesn't chip. I used Rustoleum Matte Clear Enamel. Always use the same brand of sealant as any spray paint you used or the paint might bubble. I sprayed this stuff with a light mist three times, waiting two minutes in between each layer.
    10. Done!



  6. Like
    JBar got a reaction from Gridloc in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    So, looking at my terrain, I'm really happy with it, but I don't think it has enough iconic Geonocian spires. I think I'm going to make some more spires, but if I do I'll have enough terrain for either two boards at once, or plenty of terrain variance which is also good for mixing things up. So here are my plans: I found two great sites that make 3d printed spires. I could make my own, but I'm kinda finished cutting foam haha. I found some great 3d prints from Imperial Terrain and Etsy:
    Imperial Terrain

    Fun Board Games Etsy
    Line of sight blockers

    Some barricades to replace the core set
     
    And I just found another Etsy page called Low Country 3d Printing

    I'm on a budget with my miniatures so I'll have to save up for a month or two, but my plan is after I get these I'll use a painting similar to my previous post. I'll probably add a heavy glue/filler coat over this terrain to fill the 3d print lines. The painting process will be the same
     
  7. Like
    JBar got a reaction from cvallinie in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    Another update. I wanted to add one more piece of difficult terrain and light cover to the board. While I was at it, I made a more detailed guide to my terrain process:
    1. I cut out 1/8" sign board into the basing shapes I wanted using a scalpel (always cut away from your body!). Then I simply hot glued on the big rocks

    2. I used some Elmer's glue to glue one some smaller rocks in random areas. I used smaller, flatter rocks for the light cover piece so that it would be more flat for miniatures to walk along. The difficult terrain piece will be filled with putty so it won't matter that the rocks are bigger, stick up, and are in the way.

    3. You can use any sort of putty or paper mache here. I used some paper mache I found at Michaels where you just add water and it dries solid. I only filled the base for the difficult terrain. I let this dry for at least a day. While it is drying, you might want to bend the base here and there so that it dries flat. Paper mache shrinks slightly as it dries.

    4. I made a tin foil plate and mixed sand, Elmer's glue, and some water to make a paste. I smeared this all over the bases




    5. Once dry, I added some more Elmer's glue in areas concentrated around the big rocks. I sprinkled larger grains of sand in those areas. Lastly, I soaked a brush full of Elmer's glue and water and dabbed it all over the sand so that it would seal and harden


    6. On to the painting. I waited a day for all this to dry on a flat surface. Every now and then I would bend the bases so that they dry flat. If anything cracked while I bent them, I just refilled the cracks with more glue and sand. I sprayed the bases with Rustoleum Spiced Amber. I found out that if you don't spray the bases, it will be very hard to paint all the little porous holes that the sand creates. I think any orange or red color will work. I chose this color because it's all I had. Let this dry for at least a day (I got away with 2 hours but a day is smarter)

    8. I put a heavy layer or two of Craft Smart's French Wine found at Michael's. Generally, I use the premium paints that Craft Smart offers because I think they're more durable for a few more cents. I filled any hard to get areas with a little Agrax Earthshade.

    7. Next, I used a heavy drybrush of Liquitex Red Oxide. Michael's is going out of stock of this product, but I found that Craft Smart's Burnt Orange is the same color also found at Michaels. Don't go too heavy or you will lose some depth of the previous layer. I used a paper towel to soak up some of the paint on the brush.

    8. Then I did a LIGHT drybrush of Naples Yellow Hue (I actually mixed this with Red Oxide for an extra in second drybrush layer but that step is optional). I can't stress the word "light" enough. This is a bright highlight and it can be really easy to over do it. Use plenty of paper towels to soak up 95% of the paint on the brush. I wiped the brush against my hand and if any paint rubbed off at all, there was too much paint on the brush. Brush this all over the bases a couple times over, especially in the raised areas.
    9. Finally Spray the bases with a sealant so that it doesn't chip. I used Rustoleum Matte Clear Enamel. Always use the same brand of sealant as any spray paint you used or the paint might bubble. I sprayed this stuff with a light mist three times, waiting two minutes in between each layer.
    10. Done!



  8. Like
    JBar reacted to PikminToo in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    Hey if you're interested Sorastro has a video on his youtube page for how to do Genosian terrain that might help inspire you further! It looks great keep up the good work!
  9. Like
    JBar got a reaction from PikminToo in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    Just found a video on how to do the spires! 
     
  10. Like
    JBar reacted to F0RGED in Clone Wars Units Shipping?   
    Sadly not, more like 6-10 weeks from first listing of on the boat before items arrive.

     
     
    That's why this is funny because everything but the core set and phase 1 clone troopers is shipping.
  11. Like
    JBar reacted to manoftomorrow010 in New Rules Reference Up w/ All Points and Erratas   
    So happy they decreased Jyn's points!
  12. Like
    JBar reacted to LunarSol in New Rules Reference Up w/ All Points and Erratas   
    I suspect that's their baseline for competitive value now.  Changing it just to try and make more build diversity in Imperial lists could really throw off the balance with other factions.
  13. Like
    JBar reacted to NukeMaster in FFG Live Legion -- Points Changes being discussed!   
    I understand the need for point adjustments and thought it was a good idea to make it easier to do in X-Wing. What I don't like is the constant nerf/buff cycling you get in MMOs. I think we are getting a bit of that in X-Wing. 
    I'm hoping Legion hits the sweet spot. With printed values on the cards they are still incentivized to do the proper play testing and get the right value during the design. 
  14. Like
    JBar got a reaction from SFC Snuffy in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    My mat from Frontline Gaming came in! Can't wait for the clone wars to come out!

     

     

     

  15. Like
    JBar got a reaction from DwainDibbly in FFG Live Legion -- Points Changes being discussed!   
    Even though it will be a little inconvenient that we'll have to look up points costs, I'd rather do that then not get to use some of the minis I own. Can't wait to try out the T-47!
  16. Like
    JBar got a reaction from Lukez in FFG Live Legion -- Points Changes being discussed!   
    Even though it will be a little inconvenient that we'll have to look up points costs, I'd rather do that then not get to use some of the minis I own. Can't wait to try out the T-47!
  17. Like
    JBar got a reaction from flightmaster101 in FFG Live Legion -- Points Changes being discussed!   
    Even though it will be a little inconvenient that we'll have to look up points costs, I'd rather do that then not get to use some of the minis I own. Can't wait to try out the T-47!
  18. Like
    JBar got a reaction from SFC Snuffy in July Terrain Challenge   
    The goal in making my terrain was first and foremost to make something easy to play on. That means, no hills for miniatures to fall over on, no sand that crumbles when you handle it, no super tall things that fall over, etc. I also want to walk the fine line between durability and looks. I think I found a happy medium. All this stuff is super robust and I tried to give some tactical variety:
    Height 2 rockwalls

    Heavy cover
     

    Light cover

    Difficult terrain

    More line of sight blocking
     
    Here it all is. I wonder if that meets the quota of "enough terrain" for competitive play. I might add some more line of sight blocking 3d printed spires (gotta stop those snipers!)

     
  19. Like
    JBar got a reaction from RyonOlson in Which stats would you change?   
    I've been a bit out of the loop. Is Demolisher still the ultimate OP ship it used to be? Because I would change its rule.
    Also, I would increase the front arc angle of the nebulon b.
  20. Like
    JBar reacted to Darth Sanguis in How is the SSD doing in the wild?   
    Personally, I see 800+ as the way Armada was meant to be played, so I'm hella biased.

    The competitive scene, 400 point builds or lower, they just don't do anything for me anymore. You always have to sacrifice something, I never feel like I'm building a whole fleet. Honestly the game shouldn't have even been labeled "Armada" at the standard point build. "Task force" or "Do-group" would have been better suited.

    Anyways, I think those who are inclined to play competitive games will see some niche SSD usage during the next few months as the SSD and RitR meta matures.  After that I expect to see the SSD played almost exclusively in sector fleet battles. (Unless a couple JankMasters™ such as myself crawl out from under a rock to get thrashed at a tourney once in a while.) 

     
  21. Confused
    JBar got a reaction from cynanbloodbane in Which stats would you change?   
    I've been a bit out of the loop. Is Demolisher still the ultimate OP ship it used to be? Because I would change its rule.
    Also, I would increase the front arc angle of the nebulon b.
  22. Like
    JBar reacted to Asvaldir in Query - Phase II Clone Replacement Helmets   
    I'd check out skullforge miniatures, I'm pretty sure you can find Phase II clone heads there. I imagine it will take some careful modelling to make them fit however, given the phase I clones are soft plastic like all legion kits have been until B1s, so the head comes attached to the body. 
  23. Thanks
    JBar got a reaction from AldousSnow in July Terrain Challenge   
    The goal in making my terrain was first and foremost to make something easy to play on. That means, no hills for miniatures to fall over on, no sand that crumbles when you handle it, no super tall things that fall over, etc. I also want to walk the fine line between durability and looks. I think I found a happy medium. All this stuff is super robust and I tried to give some tactical variety:
    Height 2 rockwalls

    Heavy cover
     

    Light cover

    Difficult terrain

    More line of sight blocking
     
    Here it all is. I wonder if that meets the quota of "enough terrain" for competitive play. I might add some more line of sight blocking 3d printed spires (gotta stop those snipers!)

     
  24. Like
    JBar got a reaction from ResoluteHusky in Building a Geonosis battlefield   
    This piece was an afterthought but the Facebook pages really seemed to like it haha. I almost didn't make it. I used some Geonosian warriors as statues. I think I'm finished with everything now. I'm just waiting for my mars mat to arrive in the mail. If I need some more I might pick up some 3d printed spires for more line of sight blocking terrain.
     

    And here are the finished starfighters. It took some work not getting paint on the original paint jobs.
     

  25. Like
    JBar got a reaction from madmc326 in July Terrain Challenge   
    The goal in making my terrain was first and foremost to make something easy to play on. That means, no hills for miniatures to fall over on, no sand that crumbles when you handle it, no super tall things that fall over, etc. I also want to walk the fine line between durability and looks. I think I found a happy medium. All this stuff is super robust and I tried to give some tactical variety:
    Height 2 rockwalls

    Heavy cover
     

    Light cover

    Difficult terrain

    More line of sight blocking
     
    Here it all is. I wonder if that meets the quota of "enough terrain" for competitive play. I might add some more line of sight blocking 3d printed spires (gotta stop those snipers!)

     
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