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About JBar

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  1. I'm not aware of any. Hoping for some official FFG missions that replicate the movies at some point. That's one feature I love about the Middle Earth miniatures game.
  2. I'm hoping that someone will have a 3d print option if that isn't too hard. I would totally buy those if they fit.
  3. Here are some pics of the updated terrain all put together. A breakdown of the terrain groupings: Height 2 terrain: Difficult terrain: Heavy cover: LOS blocking "high ground" terrain: LOS blocking: Light cover: LOS blocking and light cover:
  4. I'm so happy with how the new stuff turned out! I think I'm finally done. I'll get a photo of the whole board put together
  5. I haven't made any videos but I get a lot of inspiration from The Terrain Tutor on Youtube
  6. Big update! I'm super happy with how these 3d printed items are turning out. I wanted to add a few more line of sight blockers and light cover. I put some plaster on the spires and sanded them down. I again added my normal glue, water, and sand mixture (with less sand this time) and painted them like usual. I still have a lot of leftover spires that I'm using to make some combined terrain features. Next is to add the usual, filler, rocks, sand, glue, and paint, like usual. My work in progess. The one with the stairs has a little cave for a mini to hide in. (By the way, hot glue works great for all this) Here is an update with everything and the stand alone spires. In my opinion it makes things look waaay better. It much more resembles Geonosis and seems less like there is random blobs of terrain. They spires really blend it all together. I can't wait for my final three pieces to be added.
  7. As I've mentioned earlier, I decided to get more spire-looking terrain pieces to make it look more specific to Geonosis. My plan is to use some plaster putty like I did with the other terrain to fill the print lines. Then I'll slap one some glue/water/sand mixture to seal in the putty. I'm going to go very light on the sand to keep the detail. By the way, I found these on Etsy: Fun Board Games Low Country 3d Printing
  8. If/when you do a droideka paint tutorial, will you be adding the subtle purple to the edges of the copper metal? It seems like a detail someone like you could pull off. I like how it looks like the droid's blasters get so hot that oxidizes the metal. I think it would really make the miniature pop.
  9. So, looking at my terrain, I'm really happy with it, but I don't think it has enough iconic Geonocian spires. I think I'm going to make some more spires, but if I do I'll have enough terrain for either two boards at once, or plenty of terrain variance which is also good for mixing things up. So here are my plans: I found two great sites that make 3d printed spires. I could make my own, but I'm kinda finished cutting foam haha. I found some great 3d prints from Imperial Terrain and Etsy: Imperial Terrain Fun Board Games Etsy Line of sight blockers Some barricades to replace the core set And I just found another Etsy page called Low Country 3d Printing I'm on a budget with my miniatures so I'll have to save up for a month or two, but my plan is after I get these I'll use a painting similar to my previous post. I'll probably add a heavy glue/filler coat over this terrain to fill the 3d print lines. The painting process will be the same
  10. Another update. I wanted to add one more piece of difficult terrain and light cover to the board. While I was at it, I made a more detailed guide to my terrain process: 1. I cut out 1/8" sign board into the basing shapes I wanted using a scalpel (always cut away from your body!). Then I simply hot glued on the big rocks 2. I used some Elmer's glue to glue one some smaller rocks in random areas. I used smaller, flatter rocks for the light cover piece so that it would be more flat for miniatures to walk along. The difficult terrain piece will be filled with putty so it won't matter that the rocks are bigger, stick up, and are in the way. 3. You can use any sort of putty or paper mache here. I used some paper mache I found at Michaels where you just add water and it dries solid. I only filled the base for the difficult terrain. I let this dry for at least a day. While it is drying, you might want to bend the base here and there so that it dries flat. Paper mache shrinks slightly as it dries. 4. I made a tin foil plate and mixed sand, Elmer's glue, and some water to make a paste. I smeared this all over the bases 5. Once dry, I added some more Elmer's glue in areas concentrated around the big rocks. I sprinkled larger grains of sand in those areas. Lastly, I soaked a brush full of Elmer's glue and water and dabbed it all over the sand so that it would seal and harden 6. On to the painting. I waited a day for all this to dry on a flat surface. Every now and then I would bend the bases so that they dry flat. If anything cracked while I bent them, I just refilled the cracks with more glue and sand. I sprayed the bases with Rustoleum Spiced Amber. I found out that if you don't spray the bases, it will be very hard to paint all the little porous holes that the sand creates. I think any orange or red color will work. I chose this color because it's all I had. Let this dry for at least a day (I got away with 2 hours but a day is smarter) 8. I put a heavy layer or two of Craft Smart's French Wine found at Michael's. Generally, I use the premium paints that Craft Smart offers because I think they're more durable for a few more cents. I filled any hard to get areas with a little Agrax Earthshade. 7. Next, I used a heavy drybrush of Liquitex Red Oxide. Michael's is going out of stock of this product, but I found that Craft Smart's Burnt Orange is the same color also found at Michaels. Don't go too heavy or you will lose some depth of the previous layer. I used a paper towel to soak up some of the paint on the brush. 8. Then I did a LIGHT drybrush of Naples Yellow Hue (I actually mixed this with Red Oxide for an extra in second drybrush layer but that step is optional). I can't stress the word "light" enough. This is a bright highlight and it can be really easy to over do it. Use plenty of paper towels to soak up 95% of the paint on the brush. I wiped the brush against my hand and if any paint rubbed off at all, there was too much paint on the brush. Brush this all over the bases a couple times over, especially in the raised areas. 9. Finally Spray the bases with a sealant so that it doesn't chip. I used Rustoleum Matte Clear Enamel. Always use the same brand of sealant as any spray paint you used or the paint might bubble. I sprayed this stuff with a light mist three times, waiting two minutes in between each layer. 10. Done!
  11. Even though it will be a little inconvenient that we'll have to look up points costs, I'd rather do that then not get to use some of the minis I own. Can't wait to try out the T-47!
  12. My mat from Frontline Gaming came in! Can't wait for the clone wars to come out!
  13. I've been a bit out of the loop. Is Demolisher still the ultimate OP ship it used to be? Because I would change its rule. Also, I would increase the front arc angle of the nebulon b.
  14. The goal in making my terrain was first and foremost to make something easy to play on. That means, no hills for miniatures to fall over on, no sand that crumbles when you handle it, no super tall things that fall over, etc. I also want to walk the fine line between durability and looks. I think I found a happy medium. All this stuff is super robust and I tried to give some tactical variety: Height 2 rockwalls Heavy cover Light cover Difficult terrain More line of sight blocking Here it all is. I wonder if that meets the quota of "enough terrain" for competitive play. I might add some more line of sight blocking 3d printed spires (gotta stop those snipers!)
  15. This piece was an afterthought but the Facebook pages really seemed to like it haha. I almost didn't make it. I used some Geonosian warriors as statues. I think I'm finished with everything now. I'm just waiting for my mars mat to arrive in the mail. If I need some more I might pick up some 3d printed spires for more line of sight blocking terrain. And here are the finished starfighters. It took some work not getting paint on the original paint jobs.
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