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ZealuxMyr

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About ZealuxMyr

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    Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1990

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  • Website URL
    http://roharavar.com/

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  • Location
    Maine, USA

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  1. ZealuxMyr

    Showcase: TIE Defender

    TIE Defender Prototype
  2. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    TIE Defender Prototype
  3. ZealuxMyr

    Showcase: TIE/in Interceptor

    Imperial Grey TIE Interceptor
  4. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    Imperial TIE Interceptor in Imperial Grey
  5. ZealuxMyr

    Skull Forge Stuff

    Best Luke. Ask anyone. Everyone is saying it. Best. Luke. EVER. Yugely popular, fantastic mini. You know it, I know it, everyone knows it.
  6. ZealuxMyr

    Mon Cal Assault Frigate

    Magestic ocean sunfish approves!
  7. ZealuxMyr

    Paint problems

    I don't see why - chemically - one would be any less successful with dish soap and water than they would be with alcohol. Both remove non-polar organic compounds with a polar rinsate (all be it through different chemical mechanisms). I've always just used alcohol. If you do use soap and water be sure to do a lot of extra rinsing. You would not want to replace resin residue with soap residue. To that end having soft water would be important (total hardness <1grain/gallon or <17.1mg/L) as moderately hard to hard water will detrimentally impact the performance and function of soaps.
  8. ZealuxMyr

    Paint problems

    I've heard good things about Testors branded paints, I have only ever tried the white rattle-cans (priming Legion stormies/snowies/scouties). My personal preference, especially with 3D printed resin-laser/UV cured models is to use Tamiya branded paints (specifically XF-19 Sky Grey) for priming. Tamiya branded paints are acrylic and contain both isopropanol and glycol additives which create a better resin-paint bond than just standard solely water-based acrylics and, most importantly, it auto-levels while drying. Even if you're accidently overly generous with coverage it'll dry smoothly whether brush or airbrush applied. It works great in airbrushes with little to no dilution (with windex of course) depending on configuration (PSI, aperture size, nozzle shape, etc.). As the Federation keeps nice, clean ships I did not wash or scuff up the Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey basecoat on this NCC-72930 USS Shadowcaster. The light grey coloring is a single base coat done with an airbrush and, as you can see, it got great coverage with no loss of model-detail:
  9. ZealuxMyr

    ZealuxMyr's Workshop

    Imperial Scout with finished gloss-green visor General Steps to Completion: Olive Drab Base (Tamiya XF-62) Nurgling Green Armor Plates Mix (4:7) Olive Drab:Mournfang Brown Gloves Elysian Green straps Ogryn Camo Large Pouches Zandri Dust Small Pouches Mournfang Brown Buckles Ogryn Camo Camo Swatches Elysian Green Camo Swatches Loren Forest Camo Swatches Zandri Dust Camo Swatches Mournfang Brown Camo Swatches Abaddon Black boot bottoms 1:8 Nuln Oil:Windex dark wash Gloss Fluorescent Light Green Lens (Tamiya X-15 Light Green) Unless otherwise identified paint colors/names are all Citadel.
  10. ZealuxMyr

    Assembled Disassembling Pictures

    If you're interested I have a spare bottom B-Wing cannon from a model I removed it from to convert to the prototype B-Wing with ALM's conversion kit...I'd be happy to mail it. Though I am interested in seeing a Jetson's style tracto beam cannon...
  11. WOW. Thanks for sharing, that model looks worthy of being used as a studio prop!
  12. ZealuxMyr

    Paint problems

    What type of plastic was the 3D print made of? If it's from Shapeways and it's FUD (resin-laser cured) then you need to clean the model with alcohol and a gentle brushing before applying paint. What I believe happened here has happened to me before with FUD plastic when not properly/completely pre-cleaned: your paint dried onto a thin layer of residual uncured material that is not actually attached to the model. When you removed the tape it pulled the paint off as it dired more like a shell than a layer. I clean my FUD models with a 40% Ethanol/60% Water mixture* and a "soft" toothbrush before painting, let the model completely dry (1-2 days to be safe) after cleaning and before painting. *It's vodka, Skyy...cause I have a bottle and I wont drink that swill...
  13. ZealuxMyr

    ZealuxMyr's Workshop

    Imperial Scout - Ready for the Forrest Floor of Endor I still have the florescent-gloss-green visor lense to do...but I had to order the paint from Amazon so I'll get to that when it comes in... WIP Pics: Reference Photo (Episode III Kashyyyk Clones) Base coating: Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab as base color and Citadel Nurgling Green for the armor plates. Base coats pretty much completed Detail straps, pouches, and guns Add camo pattern (random striping/dotting of 5 different colors: 3 shades of green and 2 complimentary shades of brown) Trim boot bottoms in black and darkwash ...final step with gloss-green visor coming soon...
  14. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    I would love Mel to do this model! In all honesty I think it looks better than the "official" Disney T-85!
  15. ZealuxMyr

    Interesting imperial officer paint jobs out there?

    I went for the obligatory default black-coat officer and an alternate sandy-brown-coated officer inspired by the I-Have-The-Key-You-Need-For-The-Locked-Door imperial officers in the Dark Forces/Jedi Knight videogame series. Their skin is caucasian colored when not under intense fluoresnce lights and viewed through an iPhone camera...I swear these are not Simpsons Officers...
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