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ZealuxMyr

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About ZealuxMyr

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  • Birthday 09/30/1990

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    http://roharavar.com/

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    Maine, USA

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  1. ZealuxMyr

    Showcase: M12-L Kimogila Fighter

    Cartel Executioner: color-scheme and finless model to match FFG card art
  2. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    Cartel Executioner M12-L Kimogila Color-scheme and finless model to match card art. Rihkxyrk from Mel's Miniatures Repainted to match my Torani Kulda M12-L Kimogila repaint, did not due the white lines on this one - but matched reds and browns. Technically would match the FFG original paint scheme however none of my four Kimogilas avoided the repaint bench!
  3. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    Resistance Transport Getting geared up for some of our own custom formatted campaign! My shocker, how small this ship actually is...makes sense as the cockpit is a modified B-Wing Mark 2 cockpit. (From the Mel's Miniatures shop on Shapeways)
  4. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    E-Wing Variants I know FFG did well matching the E-Wing to its first appearance in the Dark Empire comic book series...but these are so much sleeker... (From the Alien Luxury Miniatures shop on Shapeways) Red for Rogue Squadron, Blue for Blue Squadron, and Green for Corran Horn. V-4X-D Ski-Speeders from the Battle of Crait Ready and anxious to fly in our group's custom campaign format - with modified mini-pegs for better height representation. (From the Mel's Miniatures shop on Shapeways)
  5. You can fix it yourself, it's really easy. This was posted a while back, I found it extremely helpful and did both of mine without issue: FFG fixed the models by not using gummy bears as adhesive in the 2.0 X-Wings (T-65 expansion and core set); so it is only logical that future reprints of Saw's Renegades will be like the 2.0 X-Wings...when that would occur is anybody's guess...
  6. ZealuxMyr

    Showcase: M12-L Kimogila Fighter

    I mean...they're basically the same ship? The M22 is just a M12-L with a longer body and a turret slapped on top... The M22 is the logical up-armed and up-armored version of the M12-L that any successful pirate would make it become...cause, money buys you things...like guns and "spices" and guns...
  7. ZealuxMyr

    Showcase: M12-L Kimogila Fighter

    Karthakk Pirate M12-L Kimogila "Bruiser"
  8. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    Karthakk Pirate M12-L Kimogila "Bruiser" Up-armed with 2 extra wing mounted cannons, 2 additional nose mounted cannons, and a morals quad-laser cannon. Also features a, necessary, fin extension (why they got released with such stubbing fins is beyond me). Turret rotates, good for custom campaign formats... Oh, and full on LED engines...because I could not resist. Getting this model apart was not the easiest, as my other 3 models are already painted I likely won't put LEDs into them. Rather not have to try and touch up their paint schemes...
  9. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    Star Wars: A T-65 X-Wing Conversion Story For reasons I absolutely will not explain, I own 21 First Edition X-Wings and I have always wanted their S-Foils to move (like they should) and now that we have the wonderful Second Edition flappy-wing X-Wings I just couldn't ignore them any longer. So here it is, a semi-step-by-step process for getting those 1st Edition X-Wings ready to fly alongside their 2nd Edition counterparts! Step 1: Disassemble the model. Now, as it would happen, there are TWO different molds used for First Edition X-Wings. One mold has the center body all as one solid hunk of plastic with the wings attached (this is the original model: lowest detail on body of model and you cannot see any seams around the wings/end of fuselage). The other mold (later First Edition) has the center body terminate under the wings, each wing (top two and bottom two; paired) connects to its adjacent partner and is then glued into a gap over the main body of the model. The end mechanical bit thing is a fourth separate piece. If you have the choice, work with the later First Edition model (as was done here) the seams created by the assembly/molding process create excellent guides for cutting apart the model. I used a craft knife to hack off each wing. Then a jewelry pull-saw to cut into the bottom of the model following the seems around the plastic bit on bottom that connected both bottom wings to each other. The end plug-bit just sorta fell off after sawing through the center of the model. Step 2: Prepare the model with a center cavity for the S-Foil articulating mount and arms. Once you cut through the center body of the X-Wing the astromech/mechanical detail portion on top will be clearly evident as one piece (again this is with the second printing of the First Edition X-Wing, the original printing will not have these same seams) and the bottom belly of the X-Wing will be clearly evident as one piece. Using a scroll saw (being mindful of your fingers) cut away the center bits; you really need to cut each part as flush and thin as possible. Removing the bits where the wings were formerly attached (leaving that plastic will prevent the S-Foils from opening). Once pruned use your preferred glue to reattach each bit to the body of the X-Wing; here superglue was used. Step 3: Here you want to go ahead and fit the main guide rail for the S-Foil hinges (built later, but clearly not how I did it as you can see some prototypes in this photo). This guide rail must sit exactly centered in the cavity you've just created in step 2. Otherwise your wings will look funky and the ability of the S-Foils to open will be inhibited. Without gluing the aft bit (it's the butt of the main body of the model and it will plug the end of the S-Foil cavity...I'm calling it the butt plug and you can deal with it) fit it with a perfectly centered receiving hole for the main guide rail. Use the angled slope of the sides of the model to line up your drilling - also the plastic bits on the inside form a tetris block cross-section which should help you aim (T on top, upside down T on bottom, and two rectangles on either side). Step 4: Fabricate the S-Foil hinges. Ignore the short stubby things above, below is a better idea. You'll want excess overhang so you can prune the model later without cutting it too short. As you can see the center tube has 2 equally rectangular bits of plastic added to either side. Each of those rectangles has each been planed down such that it forms an L in direct opposition to the L formed by the opposing side. This is very important, like the Second Edition X-Wing we will be connecting the opposite, opposing wings together. Top starboard wing to bottom port wing and vice versa. You will want two of these, one for each set of wings. Step 5: With sufficient, and tournament legal, pre-measuring cut the S-Foil hinges to length such that each opposing nub can mount into the cavity under the engine within the wing. You will want to rough up/sand the paint off of the attachment point so that, once glued into position, the glue bonds with the S-Foil plastic and the plastic of the wing (not just the paint on the surface). Step 6: Glue opposing oposite wings together. Again, the top starboard wing attaches to the bottom port wing and vice versa. Step 7: Prepare the model for re-assmbly! When done correctly the bottom and top wings will nest onto of each other (as they should). This requires one of the S-Foil hinges to be mounted in opposite to the other. You'll figure it out, really they can only go together two ways - both will work and any other combination simply will not re-assmble and *should* feel wrong. Below you can see the main body, with main rail guide and top and bottom hull bits attached, followed by each opposite and opposing wing pair and the butt plug. Step 8: Be careful with the crazy glue and go ahead and reassemble the model. You may need, as I did, to add a third ring behind both S-Foil hinges to buffer/fill the dead space between the butt plug and aft S-Foil hinge. Make it snug - the forward pressure will help keep the wings firm. Otherwise they will be extremely wobbly and you simply won't be happy with the model. A small amount of plastic scrap and/or green stuff will be required to fill the gap between the butt-plug and belly of the ship. Because this section was sawn through on both sides it (due to the width of the saw blade x2) is going to be a little short. Mind the gap! Step 9: Test out the assembled model. As you can see below she looks great in attack formation, but there's a bit of a gap between the wings when the S-Foils are closed. This was the alpha test after all, improvements to the design will be made. Likely just offsetting the plastic bars when preparing the S-Foil hinge can resolve this issue. The gap is being caused by the wings touching near the body of the X-Wing so, logically, if each wing is raised slightly above the exact center next time then they will not touch and will close properly. MATERIALS USED: - Evergreen Scale Models Polystyrene 0.125 inch (3.2mm) Tube - Evergreen Scale Models Polystyrene 0.062 inch (1.6mm) Rod - Plastruct 0.080x0.100 inch (2.0x2.5mm) Styrene Strip
  10. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    Soontir Fel & Royal Guard Escort Squadron Repaint
  11. ZealuxMyr

    Zealux Myr's Workshop

    FINALLY got around to doing one of these! Decloaking TIE Phantom I started this project over a year ago by testing the concept on my Star Trek: Attack Wing Valdore-Class Roman Warbird. So that's what I have for a step-by-step on how-to! (So pardon my shattered universe! 😛) 1. Patrician the model. Decide what needs to be space and what needs to be ship. 2. Electrical pattern; dark layers first then work towards lighter layers. For the Valdore I used dark blue and light blue, the TIE Phantom got a third layer of bright teal for further pop and flare! 3. Completed second lighter layer to give illusion of electricity. 4. Texture/detail rest of ship part of model and add in some stars! Then, after having tested the technique on the Valdore, I went ahead and give it a whirl on my Star Wars: Armada TIE Phantom (because I'm a masochist). Eight months later...I finally got around to the X-Wing scale model!
  12. ZealuxMyr

    Repairing broken ship miniatures.

    Both of those are just Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK; aka Butanone CAS#78-93-3). You can buy it in bulk wherever paint thinners are sold. The reason they work so well is the fact that MEK actually de-polymerizes the plastic (and can dissolve the paint). The easiest way to think of this is to think of plastic as a woven piece of fabric. If you cut the fabric in half and try to glue it back together you're going to see the seem. But if you re-weave the broken ends together you wont see the seem. This is what MEK does to plastic, the solid plastic is just a bunch of polymer chains ("macromolecules) interconnected through inter-chain bonding. When you apply MEK you unwind the available surface chains and can press 2 pieces of plastic together, in so doing the MEK unwinds both surfaces and (as it dries/evaporates) the polymer chains relink with each other creating a "plastic weld." [I are chemist.] MEK is how this: Became, seamlessly, this: And eventually this:
  13. ZealuxMyr

    TIE Reaper

    I did the thing I thought I would do, forgot. I will post pictures tonight, unless (of course) I forget again. In which case I will not post pictures. Gentle wiggling. All of the TIE panels are held together by a peg (end of strut) into a hole (on the panel). Just a little glue is used on this connection. With a gentle rocking motion you can crack the glue and wiggle the panels free without damaging the model. If you look directly at the side of the ship, so that you can see all of panel's side and use this as your baseline plane; start by gently applying alternating clockwise and anticlockwise torsional force to the panel. Be gentle, stop applying force once resistance is felt. Soon you will hear and/or feel a slight cracking, don't panic - if done gently this is just the glue breaking around the connector. After this point, again with the same reference plane as before, apply alternating inward and outward force to the front, back, top, and bottom of the panel. Once you hear and/or feel a slight cracking you should be at the point where you can apply a gently but constant outward force while gently rocking the panel in an alternating clockwise and anticlockwise fashion. The panel should pop right off but may require additional persuasion (repeat all steps until you succeed). The most important thing to remember is to always be gentle, you only want to apply enough force to crack the glue - you do not want to twist or crack the actual plastic of the model. I have successfully done this for my: TIE Advanced (3) TIE Adv. Prototype (3) TIE Aggressor (3) TIE Bomber (3) TIE Punisher (3) TIE Defender (3) TIE Fighter (8) TIE Interceptor (4) TIE Silencer (2) And with no irreparably damaged models, a few did sheer off at the peg rather than disconnect completely but are easily rebonded with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK; my "glue" of choice).
  14. ZealuxMyr

    TIE Reaper

    They are really easy to pop-open from underneath. Then you can cut away the plastic holding the wings on and have full access to the model. Will post pictures when I get home from work tonight, unless I forget...in which case I will not post pictures. For reference, when it comes to TIE variants I'm a HUGE proponent of popping the wings off of the body - makes everything easily accessible and paintable (except the TIE Phantom and TIE Striker of course, no real need to do it to either model).
  15. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    Good thought, I'd already planned on painting Mel's model as Chopper and 4-A-Duel's model as not-Chopper. Kind of tempted to do the disguised-as-an-imperial-droid Chopper color scheme...
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