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About ZealuxMyr

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  • Birthday 09/30/1990

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    Maine, USA

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  1. ZealuxMyr

    Repairing broken ship miniatures.

    Both of those are just Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK; aka Butanone CAS#78-93-3). You can buy it in bulk wherever paint thinners are sold. The reason they work so well is the fact that MEK actually de-polymerizes the plastic (and can dissolve the paint). The easiest way to think of this is to think of plastic as a woven piece of fabric. If you cut the fabric in half and try to glue it back together you're going to see the seem. But if you re-weave the broken ends together you wont see the seem. This is what MEK does to plastic, the solid plastic is just a bunch of polymer chains ("macromolecules) interconnected through inter-chain bonding. When you apply MEK you unwind the available surface chains and can press 2 pieces of plastic together, in so doing the MEK unwinds both surfaces and (as it dries/evaporates) the polymer chains relink with each other creating a "plastic weld." [I are chemist.] MEK is how this: Became, seamlessly, this: And eventually this:
  2. ZealuxMyr

    TIE Reaper

    I did the thing I thought I would do, forgot. I will post pictures tonight, unless (of course) I forget again. In which case I will not post pictures. Gentle wiggling. All of the TIE panels are held together by a peg (end of strut) into a hole (on the panel). Just a little glue is used on this connection. With a gentle rocking motion you can crack the glue and wiggle the panels free without damaging the model. If you look directly at the side of the ship, so that you can see all of panel's side and use this as your baseline plane; start by gently applying alternating clockwise and anticlockwise torsional force to the panel. Be gentle, stop applying force once resistance is felt. Soon you will hear and/or feel a slight cracking, don't panic - if done gently this is just the glue breaking around the connector. After this point, again with the same reference plane as before, apply alternating inward and outward force to the front, back, top, and bottom of the panel. Once you hear and/or feel a slight cracking you should be at the point where you can apply a gently but constant outward force while gently rocking the panel in an alternating clockwise and anticlockwise fashion. The panel should pop right off but may require additional persuasion (repeat all steps until you succeed). The most important thing to remember is to always be gentle, you only want to apply enough force to crack the glue - you do not want to twist or crack the actual plastic of the model. I have successfully done this for my: TIE Advanced (3) TIE Adv. Prototype (3) TIE Aggressor (3) TIE Bomber (3) TIE Punisher (3) TIE Defender (3) TIE Fighter (8) TIE Interceptor (4) TIE Silencer (2) And with no irreparably damaged models, a few did sheer off at the peg rather than disconnect completely but are easily rebonded with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK; my "glue" of choice).
  3. ZealuxMyr

    TIE Reaper

    They are really easy to pop-open from underneath. Then you can cut away the plastic holding the wings on and have full access to the model. Will post pictures when I get home from work tonight, unless I forget...in which case I will not post pictures. For reference, when it comes to TIE variants I'm a HUGE proponent of popping the wings off of the body - makes everything easily accessible and paintable (except the TIE Phantom and TIE Striker of course, no real need to do it to either model).
  4. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    Good thought, I'd already planned on painting Mel's model as Chopper and 4-A-Duel's model as not-Chopper. Kind of tempted to do the disguised-as-an-imperial-droid Chopper color scheme...
  5. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    UPDATE: Here the two Choppers (Left: Mel's Miniatures. Right: 4-A-Duel). They both measure approximately 22mm (due to angle of the body Mel's model comes up a little bit closer to 21mm). This height includes the antenna on Mel's model of Chopper - pretty confident this is why there appears to be a scaling issue [Fat Chopper] as the antenna accounts for nearly four full millimeters of Chopper's total height on the Mel's model. You can see (left) Mel's R2 astromech model and (right) 4-A-Duel's R2 astromech. Both are a 1:1 scale match and line up nicely with the rest of the droids in both collections. [I haven't scrubbed them with vodka yet so they're still in need of a good cleaning, lot of carbon scoring...they've seen a lot of action...]
  6. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    The Mel's Miniature model of Chopper includes the dish and antenna on his head while the 4-A-Duel Tabletop model excludes this detail. I would hazard the guess that by scaling Chopper to match 0.99M tall while also excluding the added height from his dish and antenna, the 4-A-Duel Tabletop model of Chopper is oversized for the scale. Height wise it's not bad, but volume wise it is quite apparent. What I am politely trying to say, is that I think you have a fat Chopper. Between the two shops the R2 astromechs are 1:1 scale match, and the 4-A-Duel R5, R4, R3, and GONK! models look perfectly scaled next to them.
  7. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    I ordered the droid pack from each of you. Everyone is 1:1 scale match except Chopper. You and Mel have very different ideas of how big Chopper is. (to be fair, I have know idea which one of you is right...)
  8. ZealuxMyr

    This Shouldn’t Work

    ^ THAT. THAT is the reason my triple bomber (SPACE WHALES) squad list has tourney losses. 100% of my losses are to THAT. Rest of the list is irrelevant, a gunship with C-3PO is enough to defeat your list. It is also the reason I went from a very similar list to one that has swapped in some bombs...C-3PO can't do anything about bombs... *maniacal laughter* SPACE WHALES Run in Triplicate: PS 1 Crimson Squadron Pilot with Accuracy Corrector, Seismic Charges, Crossfire Formation, & Tactical Jammer. I can hear the arguments now: Tactical Jammer is a necessity. Playing LEAP FROG is a valid strategy. It causes 1 of 2 things to happen: either your opponent has to spreads their shots to avoid giving you extra defense dice or you get extra defense dice to modify with your defensive-use-only focus token (thus the potential to block a lot more incoming damage outright). Either way you're better off. Furthermore, with clever maneuvering, you can force the spreading of fire by blocking enemy ship movements: this way you get both the spreading of shots and extra defense dice. Forcing your opponent to shoot through a tactical jammer (while also triggering Crossfire Formation) is amazing, it gives you TWO dice to roll plus a FREE evade result!!! Your space whale is like a freaking TIE Interceptor just with 4X the health and dice that can't ALL come up blank!!!
  9. ZealuxMyr

    Mel's Miniatures Wishlist

    I agree with @C3POFETT completely, I think - given the detail and scale, the price is fair. I would certainly love a lower price, but $50 seems fair to me...I've spent a lot more for one X-Wing Shapeways model... I also share the concern about painting these, especially the unique clones, getting paint only where I want it (even with the 18/0 size brush I insist on painting with) is going to be very tricky. Couple that with the fact that they *should* be a white base, and it's going to be a rather unforgiving and aggravating paint. If these came printed like the Snow trooper/Fleet trooper expansions so we had to attach the arms, head, and legs all separately I'd certainly be ordering them today. I know it would add to price (more plastic) but would consider it completely worth it on the painting end. In that configuration $75-100 a set would be okay with me (assuming the print has minimal loss of detail from the 3D render...). Also Republic Commando units? Please. So much please. I'll buy those at any price...no matter how much trouble I'll have painting them...
  10. ZealuxMyr

    DIY Articulated s-foils for B and X-wing

    I had talked about it to one of the Shapeways shops but they didn't see an easy way to do it without printing the entire back half of the core of the ship. I am no engineer, but I would think they'd be able to print a scissor hinge and leave the installation/drilling/gluing up to us... Here's hoping! (Would be FAR MORE economical than rebuying all my X-Wings just to have moving wings...)
  11. ZealuxMyr

    DIY Articulated s-foils for B and X-wing

    For the B-Wing s-foils there are also some 3D printed hinge kits available here. I bought these and installed them in all my B-Wings, they work great and are really easy to work with/paint. I tried the paperclip method (linked above) before buying these 3D printed hinge kits and I have to say these hinges are a lot safer for your model - less risk of doing accidental damage. Plus the same shop has parts to do the cannon & cockpit conversion for the rebels Blade-Wing Prototype! X-Wings are, in concept, really easy to modify: a simple scissor hinge is all you need. Cut the wings off, drill out the middle, and install a scissor hinge. The problem is the scale, the hinge has to be so tiny it has almost no structural integrity. I've made several attempts on one of my T-65 X-Wings and have since abandoned the project...I will likely revisit the idea to avoid buying the 2.0 models to replace my 1.0 models. [However I must admit the idea of buying 2.0 models and then scrapping the 1.0 models for scenery/terrain pieces is mighty tempting...]
  12. ZealuxMyr

    ZealuxMyr's Workshop

    Tamiya X-1 Black model paint. It's a gloss paint that I typically use it for X-Wing Miniatures and Armada fighter squadrons cockpits. Been using it for my stormtrooper's helmet lenses and it also works well for certain parts of Lord Vader. His shins, boots, chest and arms have it too - just those got a dulling dry brushing of matte black paint. The helmet stayed glossy, cause that's how he supposed to look
  13. ZealuxMyr

    Bohemian's Terrain and Troops

    Did...did you cut Luke IN HALF?!?
  14. ZealuxMyr

    ZealuxMyr's Workshop

    I don't know if I'm being too meticulous in all the details I'm trying to paint or if I just don't have as much time to invest as everyone else...but I have more WIP photos, none of these are done yet... Imperial forces: 1 Vader, 3 "normal" stormie platoons (1 orange pauldron commander, 1 grey pauldron commander, and 1 black pauldron commander), two 501st-Vader's Fist platoons (grey pauldron commander w/teal stripe on left shoulder pad-rest of platoon has a matching stripe and the black pauldron commander), and 5/7ths of an Imperial Shock Trooper platoon (orange pauldron commander). For those that are going to notice these things: yes those are 3D printed concept-prototype Y-Wings for X-Wing Miniatures (2.0! OMG SO EXCITED), 3D printed ski-speeders, 3D printed container tokens, and there is a BB-9E cat toy on the floor. All the 3D printed stuff is from Shapeways - a mix of Mel's Miniatures and Alien Luxury Miniatures, both of which are better at taking my money than even A$MODEE games/FFG is... Close-up of the Imperial Shock Troopers, 501st in the background - as you can see (save the back 3, left 501st troops) no one has gotten Nuln Oil detailing/highlights yet... Specialty Commander Units The nails are from painting 1/270th scale 3D printed vulture droids - magnetized. Holy Hot & Steamy Jar Jar Erotica those things are tiny... The Normie Stormies - I think I will be doing a left shoulder stripe to distinguish each platoon, grey (matching grey pauldron commander) and darker grey (to go with the black pauldron commander).
  15. ZealuxMyr

    Name that alien

    Looks like a Clawdite to me...