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About Psionics313

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    Eagan, MN

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  1. If no one takes you up on your offer, you can always strip and reprime him. I use Castrol super clean, but any degreaser will take the old paint off. A lot of people use simple green, but that takes too long for me, which is why I use Castrol's engine degreaser
  2. Haven't been on the forums, Lately. My Doom box is at a friends house currently. Next time I go over there, I'll snag new pics for ya. Only difference between the two is the hoses, eyes, symbol on chest etc. are a puss green color I made by mixing greens and yellows. the other one is a simple application of evil sunz scarlet. for the armor I did russ grey with drakkenhof shading in heavy doses. The difference between the two is one I gave a brush metal look for weathering, while the other I did a brass/copper kind of tarnish look instead.
  3. Couple of buddies and I play Doom occasionally, eldritch, and Imperial assault as well as other games when we can. We all live in Eagan.
  4. Back when I use to play x-wing exclusively. I could beat everyone. Except for this one guy who flew four hwk's and ioned all my ships off the board consistenly. Nothing more iinfuriating than that
  5. Thanks for the albeit conflicting suggestions. I've always played with all owned content in one deck or pile, but like you mentioned, the bloating can get troublesome. I may have to sort through and cherry pick what content we want and don't want to play with.
  6. Perhaps discuss with Otero about it? I believe he is on these forums. Maybe he has or will make one?
  7. I see the merit of bot sides to this discussion. I think your mechanics, and structure by design is interesting and noteworthy, along with praise for your creativity. The character background however is where you lose most. Anime characters, Viking mythology and such as that are no place for eldritch. H.P. Lovecraft fans are very protective, as an open IP fanbase would be. Just look at all the horrible movies we have. Take your cards designs and mechanics, and add them with bootleggers, **** tracy's, jazz players, flapper girls, etc. and you will find a more... intrigued audience.
  8. Thanks for the input everyone. Was brushing up on rules and I can't recall or find anywhere about playing with expansion cards. Like MoM, Do we play with the contents of that expac (investigators, assets, tasks, etc) if we are playing an AO from MoM? Trying to figure out if I need to separate expansions or not.
  9. Welcome to the forums! 1) Imps can be staggered at full health with that chainsaw card. if stagger value is dropped down to a value of 0. than they don't need damage on them to glory kill. 2a) the wording is overtly vague. I treated it as just line of sight, I think they used that word choice due the line of sight rules in this game, where you have to draw invisible lines to all corners of a space lest that figure gains the cover mechanic. Adjacent spacing results in implied line of sight. So because of that, I would go ahead and say if you can trace on point of a marine occupied space to a point of a portal occupied space, that portal then activates. 2b) as soon the door is opened you would check for line of sight, and perform a summoning. Unless the card states otherwise, Don't have it handy to confer to. 3) Not quite following the question. Are you curious if you shuffle those initiative cards into the deck during activations? If so, I don't believe so. The initiative deck is prepared, adjusted, and modified during the status phase. So if you spawn something during activations because of the invasion card rules, they would not get an activation or card this turn. That being said, you can use this knowledge to make your spawn choices deadly, say you have imps out on the board, and they haven't activated yet. your new portals just opened up on that marines activation. You can spawn more imps, allowing them all to activate that turn. If anyone feels I'm wrong, go ahead and correct me. I'm going off of what my play group did based off of memory. There's a lot of instances like this one that are confusing and vague in what is the proper play.
  10. I actually failed that initial mission Ran head first and imps swarmed us. I took over my friends character after he had a family thing to attend to, and came back after a near loss, or so I thought. The imps and Revenant holing up at the end of the hallway was enough to obliterate my marines for the final frag token.
  11. Thanks man! Your initial post got me itching to paint again. so I dove right in.
  12. I usually just use krylon primer meant for plastic. I also had a can of Army Painter Primer. Both work fine. I'd make sure it's for sure primer meant for plastic and it's a matte type. I'm painting my Mansion of Madness minis right now and I accidentally primed them with a white Krylon semigloss. Not turning out so well. Make sure the temp is right for your priming too. Too cold and it will blister, crack, and peel, or bubble. Even coats too. Not too thick. Priming is just as crucial as the rest of the process. so again, I'd recommend Army Painters primer if you want to shell out $10+ per can, or Krylon's plastic primer series. that Camo line they have on every Walmart shelf even works well in a pinch.
  13. Hmm. So maybe the question I should be asking myself then, Should I buy the 2nd edition for the game that it is, not necessarily as a supplementary form for the 1st edition. I think I'll pass on it
  14. Thanks! I finished the Cyberdemon. Can't wait to see yours, when you do them that is
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