MacrossVF1
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Posts posted by MacrossVF1
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Not to show off or anything (Oh who am I kidding, of course I'm showing off
), but this is some pics of my most magnetized model (Not a Star Wars model so I'll admit that it is a bit off topic)
Yes that is indeed the same model and below is all the parts.
30 neodymium magnets keep this beast together. I like magnets.
*edit* I hope the pictures work now
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Wedge's X-wing was finished after both Luke's red five and the B-wing and it shows. The chips are smaller and better placed and the whole model just looks a little better. The next project is a Phantom I won at the Assault at Imdaar Alpha event.
newmagrathea and lansing2 reacted to this -
Like yesterday I'm posting this directly from my blog so it will probably have to be split in two parts.
And here is the final paint guide that I promised and it is an X-wing painted as Wedge Antilles red two during the attack on the first Death Star. To be honest it's not much of a paint guide as I have already detailed how to paint an X-wing earlier. No, what I will be doing this time is really referring you back to Luke's X-wing and pointing out any differences. Yes, I can be quite lazy sometimes.
Wedge's X-wing has a few more colours than Luke's. First and perhaps most visible is the nose-cone which I painted with pure Vallejo Khaki. There are also bands of a pale yellow on both sides of each wing that I painted with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Plague Brown and Khaki. This was done before the red markings.
When I was cleaning up the model after the wash I noticed something I had missed. The area around the cockpit is supposed to have a different colour, probably so it should look like it has been replaced. To represent this I painted that area with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Stonewall Grey and Khaki and I took great care in leaving a thin line between the cockpit area and the rest of the fuselage.
Highlighting the nose-cone was done by using the same mix of colours that I had used around the cockpit. The cockpit area on the other hand was highlighted with pure Stonewall Grey.
I used a 1:1:2 mix of Vallejo Plague Brown, Khaki and Stonewall Grey for chipping the pale yellow areas, followed by covering most of the area with pure Stonewall Grey. Most of this was done to the front of each yellow area as the front of the wing will see the most wear and tear. Chipping on the nose-cone was simply done by painting the highlight first, and Vallejo German Grey second.
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Why do you put the magnets on the plastic peg? Ditch the peg, drill a hole in the model, glue the magnet into place, drill a corresponding hole in the mounting rod, glue a magnet to that and finished.
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As oneway says, you don't need to strip x-wing minis and I cannot in fact recommend it unless you know what you are doing (like me) or if you are really anal about it (me again!
).As for how I paint strip, well I use a substance called T-röd or rather T-red in english. In Sweden it is extremely well known and it can be used for a multitude of purposes, as fuel for small outdoor stoves and lamps, as anti-freeze for cars, cleaning oils and grease, as solvent for paint and glue amongst others. I think the proper term for it is 'Methylated spirit' and it is basically a cheaply produced industrial alcohol with an additive that makes people throw up if they try to drink it. Of course that doesn't stop hardcore alcoholics but for normal people the effect is instantaneous. I've gotten some in my mouth and it is quite vile.
Stripping paint with T-red is extremely similar to how Castor Super Clean is described in the link provided above by Tidy Fender with one difference, it doesn't give you chemical burns. Indeed, the worst thing T-red can do to you is give you a cheap alcohol high from the fumes and dried out skin. Stripping X-Wing miniatures are harder than normal though. I need to scrub the model with a toothbrush thoroughly and several times at that even when letting the model soak for quite a while,
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Swedge: That's a given. In fact I'd say that paint that has not been thinned out properly, barely, if ever, works in an airbrush.
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That's coat d'arms? Huh must have mixed them up with another company then.
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Radarman5: In theory any acrylic paint can be made into a wash but pre-formulated washes are usually much better as they are designed to dry with a smoother colour transition and pool in the proper areas. Much of this has to do with differences in surface tension, that is, washes has less of it.
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Paint stripping is not strictly necessary but I like being thorough. Stripping does one good thing though and that is making it far easier to spot flaws, mould lines and excess glue used in the building process.
IronTau: If you have a sharp knife and patience it shouldn't be terribly problematic. The blade needs to be quite thin though, otherwise you run the risk of cutting into something you don't want to.
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I can be wrong but I've heard that Côte d'arms paints has bad resilience, so do take care to varnish any models properly. As for what paints I recommend, well the best range in my opinion has to be Vallejo's. Though that is only a half-truth as they have several ranges, tailored to specific needs. Their Game Colour range is basically GWs old range and should suit old sticks in the mud (like myself
). The cheapest range has to be Army Painters Warpaints and while it is fairly small, it is supposedly quite good. Their washes (called inks though they are not) is very close to GWs old washes and is rumored to actually BE GWs old washes. Anyone missing Devlan Mud should give their Strong Tone Ink a try. Privateer Press' P3 range is a bit of an odd duck. I haven't used it much but I know that it has a unique feature in that the paints barely, if at all, separate. It is also supposed to dry a bit slower than most acrylics, to facilitate easier on-model blending of colours.BTW if you have a specific colour you like/need/want to use then by all means, use it! An interesting colour can lead to an interesting end result and that is far more important than being loyal to any brand.
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Weathering was similar to Luke's X-wing so I have copied parts of the previous paint guide. Yes I can be quite lazy. Anyway, chipping on the basecoat was done by first painting Dead White where I wanted the chipping, followed by patches of thin German Grey, taking care not completely cover the white. The German Grey was not really painted but rather almost stippled on to create a more natural look. The blue got a similar treatment but with the final highlight mix first, then the basecoat and finally German Grey. I took care to place most chipped areas to the front of the model so it looked more natural. Some rust was added by painting thinned out Vallejo Parasite Brown in several recesses. I added some dirt/soot streaks on the wings in the form of a couple of thin layers of Dark Tone Ink. After spraying the model with matte varnish I added the final touch to the cockpit windows by painting them with gloss varnish.
I'm quite pleased with this one and it also the one of my X-wing repaints that gets the most raised eyebrows. I'm pretty sure this is because of the changed position as it is an immediate clue that the model has been changed in at least one way.
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Let's try something different. I'm too lazy to find my previous thread and I've just posted this on my blog so let's if I can copy and paste the entire thing. Might have to post it in several parts though.
So I didn't post this yesterday like I had promised. My only excuse is a lack of time. In any case here it is, my B-wing paint guide! Unlike Luke's X-wing, this is a more personal take since it do not represent the ship of a specific pilot, but rather a generic Blue squadron pilot and possibly not even that. Oh well, it's my ship and I'll paint it however I want!
Before stripping the paint I set about converting the position of the model. I realize that the default upright position is due to practical concerns but I don't like it. To me a B-wing should 'fly' more sideways. To achieve this I removed the mounting rod and sawed off the bent part. After that I drilled a 2mm hole in the rod and pressed a short piece of piano wire into the hole. The B-wing itself got treated to a corresponding hole on the underside of the fuselage, drilled at a slight angle. Finally I shifted the position of the cockpit by cutting of the peg holding it in place, filing the edges down and re-mounting it horizontally.
Now I could finally start painting. Many of the colours used on this model are the same as Luke's X-wing. This is how I usually paint, I decide early on what colours I should use and stick with them throughout the entire project. So for the main fuselage I used Vallejo Stonewall Grey and the blue parts were painted with Vallejo Ultramarine Blue. The engines, lower cannons and air intake was painted with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo German Grey and Vallejo Cold Grey and the exposed engine part (Looks kinda like a straight 8 cylinder petrol engine) in front of the exhaust, the exposed underside of each gunpod and the 'square' behind the air intake with plain Cold Grey. The rim around the cockpit windows, the depression at the middle of the lower wing and a circular depression behind the cockpit was painted with a 1:1 mix of GW The Fang and Cold Grey. As a final touch I added some different shades of grey to a few of the panels.
The following steps are the exact same ones as with Luke's X-wing so I'll just copy and paste from the previous paint guide: 'Next I shaded the entire model with a 1:4 mix of Army Painter Strong Tone ink and Army Painter Dark Tone ink. I brushed this on quite thinly as I didn't want any of the wash to pool or dry unevenly. After that I re-applied the base colours, leaving the wash showing in the recesses'
Not all things were the same though. When reapplying the base colour to the air intake I did it in many small thin streaks to represent fine damage and dirt that has been sucked into the engine and I also washed the 'petrol engine' with pure Dark Tone ink.
The main fuselage was highlighted with Vallejo Dead white, keeping it very nice and clean around every panel edge. A 1:1:1 mix of The Fang, Cold Grey and Stonewall Grey was used to highlight the areas painted with the previous mix of The Fang and Cold Grey. I applied a fine drybrush of Cold Grey over the 'petrol engine' followed by an even finer drybrush of Stonewall Grey. The panels painted with different grey colours was mostly highlighted with Stonewall Grey and the air intake and the circular rims in front of the engine exhausts were highlighted with pure Cold Grey. As for the blue, that was more complicated. I started out with a 3:1 mix of Ultramarine Blue and Stonewall Grey and gradually worked my way up in successive layers until I probably had a 1:1 mix of the previous colours.
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GW paints do not need to be thinned? That must be some good stuff you are smoking, could you please share?
On a more serious note, I personally rate GW's paints as some of the worst in existence. Individual colours can be good but as a whole, the range is mediocre at best. The foremost complaint is of course price, seeing as just about every other paint producer sells their bottles at a lower price (per oz/ml). GW paints also has a tendency to dry out in their own pots and is usually very hard to airbrush properly. Their best feature is that they are quite resilient (at least the older paints were) and will not chip as easily as many other brands.
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Also, I remembered this little gem that really gets to the core of why you should thin your paints.
Rob Jedi and Explosive Ewok reacted to this -
Take it from someone who is not a painting novice, thinning your paints is always a good thing to do. Not doing so usually means that you are not painting with the paint flowing smoothly from the brush, but rather you are heaping on blobs of paint on the model. This is especially pronounced when painting smaller details because, when dry, the paint makes a raised area, and the model can look 'textured' for a lack of a better word.
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It is a good build but probably not the best tournament build. A list like this relies on time and patience, not killing the enemy outright and you don't have that luxury at a tourny. It is very fun to play however your friends might want to strangle you if you play with it often
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Calling customer support is all very nice and cosy for those of you that can, but how about people living on the other side of the big pond called the atlantic? I live in Sweden and I'm pretty sure that FFG has no official presence here.
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I would not bet on your ship having a personality, but rather the all seeing Murphy rewarding you with some good karma for a change. Of course, Murphy being the insufferable git that he is, punishes you the moment you do not use your A-wing.
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A bit of a bump but better than spamming new topics I suppose. My dear painted ships got me a second place at Imdaar so maybe the repaints helped? In any case the first paint tutorial (Luke's Red five) is up on my blog so please do take a look.
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I got to use the phantom with echo and dang he is good. However I had a hard time wrapping my head around his movement and that meant he lost his shields early without being able to shoot back. He didnt live many turns after that but the few shots he got off was seven shades of deadly. I lost and got second but my opponent wanted the E wing so I got the Phantom as second pick. Seriously, to be able to use a phantom properly you need to plan at least three moves ahead, preferably more.
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My money would be on the Royal team. More fighters mean more dice and in this game that makes a huge difference. Not saying that your other option is bad, just that it demands some serious manuvering skills from the player.
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Thanks Forensicus. I was about to crap in my pants for a while there.
), but this is some pics of my most magnetized model (Not a Star Wars model so I'll admit that it is a bit off topic)
). The cheapest range has to be Army Painters Warpaints and while it is fairly small, it is supposedly quite good. Their washes (called inks though they are not) is very close to GWs old washes and is rumored to actually BE GWs old washes. Anyone missing Devlan Mud should give their Strong Tone Ink a try. Privateer Press' P3 range is a bit of an odd duck. I haven't used it much but I know that it has a unique feature in that the paints barely, if at all, separate. It is also supposed to dry a bit slower than most acrylics, to facilitate easier on-model blending of colours.
[Paintjob] B-wing tutorial
in X-Wing
Posted
jpwithfo: Grey colours are good, m'kay?
Effenhog: Waterbased acrylic paints are the easiest to use and for the cheapest of the cheap look no further than Army Painter's Warpaints range. While small, it has just about every basic colour that you might need and is of good quality despite being cheap. To give you an example, their basic starter set cost 22 euro (Can't find the dollar price for it) while Games Workshop's equivalent cost 61 euro. Yes, GW's set contains 13 pots to Army Painter's 10 and contains some extras but the pots are smaller. GWs colours cost 3.20 euro per pot and contains 12 ml paint which gives us a price 0.267 euro/ml while Army Painter's pots contain 18 ml and cost 2.50 euro so the price is 0.139 euro/ml. That's dangerously close to half the price!