Huh, didn't think of that. To be honest though, the grey is actually a very blueish grey (Vallejo Game Colour Sombre Grey/ Old GW Shadow Grey), it's just that the finished result and studio photos looks a lot more like a standard grey.

Bumping the thread with an update Go to my blog or my forum thread for the rest of the pictures.

*Shudders in horror* No thanks! That's a ship I really don't like. Anyway, here's my latest model. I call it the 'Draken' which is Swedish for dragon. The reason for this name is that I took inspiration from some older 1950s and 60s era jet aircraft, particularly the Swedish Saab 35 Draken and Saab 32 Lansen (Lance in English). I'm not completely satisfied with the engine colour but other than that it's a decent effort.

I love Horton with TLT and have been toying with the idea of trying BTL-A4 on him. Haven't tried it yet though. My favourite config as of yet is R5-P9 and TLT. It's not too expensive and gives Horton some much needed extra survivability. Horton's ability often means that you don't need to use your focus token for attacks which in turns means R5-P9 can activate fairly often. And we all know how useful it is to regenerate shields.

The damage that clusters can do is indeed rather underwhelming. However I'm not sure that's what we always should be aiming for. To me it seems that clusters are perhaps best utilised to create choke points and block gaps between asteroids. Yes, proximities and nets can do that as well, but the way clusters are deployed and the area they cover should make them slightly better at the job. Mind you, I haven't tried clusters yet so it's just theory at the moment.

Not for myself no, but if I get a commission then sure! I did actually consider painting it as a B-25, B-17 or B-26 at first but wanted something with a bit more colour (other than green).

The new damage deck affects everyone and everything equally so it really isn't anything to whine about. Does it suck when it happens? Of course! But that's just part of the game.

Ships that go bump in the forum. Go to my blog or my forum thread for the rest of the pictures.

That's a really good idea, couldn't you have said that earlier. Before I started painting, preferably! Anyway here's my latest repaint, a Kihraxz where I tried to combine two colours that normally don't mesh together. I think I managed a good looking model though I don't expect everyone to like the colour scheme.

No one knows exactly why they removed it but it likely had to do with some perceived legal problem.

All my wave 7 small ships are very loose on their pegs, haven't had a problem with the YV-666 however.

Stuff like that happen all the time though usually around where the parts meet. It's one of the first things I look for when preparing a model for repainting.

I find Stygian Sigmas really useful in rounding out many lists that have one big target and needs another threat to relieve some of that pressure. People will generally gun for a Phantom even when it's not the best decision to do so and that psychological compulsion is a very powerful tool when playing with Phantoms.

I don't have a good answer to that Azrapse, though Star Wars ships has never been known for their intelligent designs.

Hard to truly say, though high cost ships with relatively few hit points are probably the worst off. To that end it really feels like IG2000 is one of the biggest candidates to the title. Mind you, I'm all for this change.

Lots of nicely airbrushed ships. Me likey. However that red HWK has an 'interesting' configuration...

As I wrote above, WW2 US dive bombers served as the main inspiration. Basically aircraft like Douglas SBD Dauntless, Curtiss SB2C Helldiver and Grumman TBF Avenger. I also noticed that many US aircraft, particularly pre-war ones, featured yellow so I had to include some of that as well. No one noticed how natural it looks that the chin turret has been moved to the rear? I saw someone discussing it earlier when the ship was previewed and I kinda had to steal that idea.

I can see what you are concerned about though I personally have never had a problem with it. It most certainly is legal in terms of the rules.

Crackshot, and EPTs like it, are often quite useful on higher PS generics that also feature an EPT. You generally don't want those ships to be too expensive and crackshot gives them a much needed boost. Sadly, there are currently not a lot of ships that fits the description, Green squadron A-wings being one of the few exceptions.

Doing my part in keeping the thread alive. Go to my blog or my forum thread for the rest of the pictures.

It's been a while since I last posted anything in this thread but it's finally time to reveal my latest project. I call it the K-diver as I was inspired by WW2 era US pacific theatre dive bombers when I painted it.

Sabine's Tie is something I dread having to paint. I know someone will probably commission me to paint it sooner or later, and trust me I don't wanna! Anyway, I think Baa has the right idea, a fine tipped marker pen should help immensly.

In all my years of painting, I've never seen that effect. Something must have gone terribly wrong with the paint, though I struggle to come up with a good reson why it behaves like that. I do know that wash can come out glossy if it haven't been shaken properly. However you should never add soap to an acrylic wash like GWs, if you wish to thin them, just use regular water. Another thing that helps is to give the model a coat of gloss varnish before the shading step as this helps the paint to seep into and stay in every nook and cranny the model have. Here's some general tips: -Wash the model before painting. While I have never needed to do so with any X-wing models, it's always a good idea. Various release agents and other unwanted substances may still cling to the model. Resin models are by far the worst offender on this subject. -Prime the model. Whether you use a rattle can, airbrush or regular brushwork, some kind of undercoat is always good to start with as it helps the subsequent layers of paint adhere. -Many thin layers. Yeah, you've heard it before and I'm going to repeat it once more, several thin layers are always better than one thick glob of paint. -Gloss varnish for washing. As stated above, gloss varnish is a good tool when washing a model. If using oil washes, a layer of gloss varnish is even more important! -Sealing the model in stages. Sometimes a model needs additional layers of varnish to 'seal' the work you've already done. This is very common when using gloss varnish, as while wash loves gloss varnish, subsequent paint layers do not. Spray some matte varnish to make the model paintable again. *Edit* I missed or misread the first time, but diluting a wash with water in a 1:3 ratio is too much. With that much water you are approaching the point where the medium in the paint is so diluted that it no longer can adhere to the model. The soap certainly did not help either.

I'm on the opposite side, I like one shot cards, provided they don't cost too much. On higher PS generics that also have an EPT slot, like the Black Squadron Tie or the Green Squadron A-wing, elite skills like Crackshot is quite good.

One contender is without a doubt Latts Razzi. All she needs is a K4 security droid and a weapons engineer and she's ready to do some damage.