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MacrossVF1

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About MacrossVF1

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  1. Now this is a subject that I'm intimately familiar with. 'Thin your paints' is perhaps the most common advice given to new painters. Of course no one can ever give a good answer on how much thinning a paint need. In broad terms, you need the paint to be thin enough that you don't leave traces of the brush strokes visible on the painted model and that the paint doesn't clog up details. However it varies greatly from paint to paint as some are stuffed full of pigments and flow easily (black) while others are the spawn of Satan and needs to be burned for its' sins on a pyre made from used brushes (I'm looking at you yellow). The model being painted can also necessitate less or more thinning. For instance, I'm currently painting a model that has lots and lots small panels. When I thinned the paint too much, surface tension made the paint flow around the panels to places I most decidedly did not want it. The best advice I can give beyond 'thin your paints' is to experiment. It might take a thousand tries but soon enough you should develop an instinctive need for how much thinning is needed. I can also highly recommend getting something called flow improver, that pretty much does exactly that, improves how the paint flows to and from the brush which really helps in most situations.
  2. Here's some snowspeeders for you to enjoy. Unlike the walkers and bikes, these two do not originate from Wizard of the Coast, but are certainly not official Legion models either. These were made by Revell, and were part of the easy kit line, basically fairly simple plastic kits for beginners that does not require glue to assemble. The scale is reportedly 1/52 which is very close to the (rather fluid) 1/56 scale that many miniature games use. The one advantage these models have over the Legion version is the inclusion of a transparent cockpit canopy , interior detailing and pilots. Unfortunately, the pilots are NOT to scale, as can be seen in the last image. To the left is a fairly standard 1/56 model (one of the AT-RT pilots) and to the right is a Flames of War model (1/100 scale). So yeah, I estimate the pilot to be about 1/90 scale. Still, the visible pilots are a neat feature and on the battlefield the scale issue will likely not be noticed.
  3. If you pick up the same type of model as I started this project with then I strongly advise that you at the very least straighten the legs. That alone makes a huge difference.
  4. While true that you really have to struggle to make them look worse than their original state, it's not like the bar was ever particularly high. Anyway, here's the AT-RTs I teased earlier Let's count all the things I've done: Re-positioned the legs considerably so the models stands straighter and taller Added some pistons to the legs Added an antenna array Moved the entire top pod forwards Added footrests Removed the original gun and mounting point Replaced the gun mount with a new one with a magnet added Scratch built / kitbashed all three gun options and of course magnetized them Replaced the original pilot. Replacement pilot needed extensive work to legs, feet and arms in order to have the right position And I think that's everything. Unfortunately I didn't remember to take some good before and after photos of these, best I've got is two pictures from when I was in the middle of converting the first one. Something that doesn't really come across in those pictures is how badly the model was originally leaning over to the left.
  5. I have some upcoming WotC AT-RTs that have gone through the same treatment and the difference there is even more pronounced. Just a little something to look forward. 😉
  6. First time poster on the Legion forums and I probably won't be doing it terribly often, I'm mostly active on the X-wing side of things. Now, if you have seen my X-wing work, you would likely know that I often tackle oddball projects and this time is no different. Here's some Legion scout troopers on bikes for you to take a look at. Except they are not Legion models. These models were actually produced by Wizards of the Coast back in 2004 for their Star Wars game. Now the models are not the best, the sculpt rather lacking in details, but more importantly the material used is a soft, almost rubbery, plastic. As can be seen in the last two images, it didn't hold up very well. In any case, my job was to improve and rebuild the old models into something more pleasing and quite frankly I think I've succeeded. There will always be a slight case 'polish a turd' with these models but compared to before it's a rather stunning difference.
  7. More scum! This time a Gand Findsman. Admittedly the card art isn't the greatest but I hope this is a decent representation.
  8. Considering the ship is rather symmetrical, that's a surprisingly viable idea. It's certainly not something I personally would do but I can see and understand how it could be done. Go on, do it! What's the worst that could happen? 🙂
  9. Here's the answer to the question that no one has ever asked: How would a Sith infiltrator look if it had the same pattern/scheme as the Hyena Bomber'?
  10. Pro tip, notice the raised panel that the pin up mostly covers (especially the top half). That particular panel is normally full of tiny details and smaller panels and to make it much easier to paint the twi'lek, remove and flatten most, preferably all details from it.
  11. Here's a bit of naughty filth for you, the Andrasta. In all honesty, there was a bit of communication failure this time. I never considered that there are two versions of the Twi'lek pin up, the original from the X-wing Alliance PC game from 1999 and the newer card art from the miniature game. In the end I ended up with a hybridized version of the two.
  12. Some more Scum & Villainy; Manaroo's Jumpmaster 5000 and Moralo Eval's YV-666
  13. "Gray Leader standing by." - Horton Salm at the Battle of Endor Six ships in total, five ships use the 1.0 Y-wing model, while the squad lead use a 2.0 model to make it easier to distinguish. As a fun little detail, all the astromechs have been painted slightly different from each other.
  14. Considering the shape of the C-Roc, that shouldn't be terribly hard to do actually. Most certainly a good idea that I hope someone picks up. The blue is a mix of four colours, but I've unfortunately misplaced my notes. As for the red, I started by priming the model white, then painting the front red. I then masked off the stripe and painted the blue. These steps where all done with an airbrush. Unfortunately the red came out too bright so I had to paint is darker by hand. As for the canopy, it has actually been painted so it's not the stock colour, though admittedly it's still just a basic black, with a few layers of gloss varnish on top.
  15. What the actual eff? I don't know how so many posts got duplicated like this. I've sent a report so hopefully the useless posts will be removed.
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