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  1. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from numb3rc in Token Storage Boxes   
    Or like one of those change belts the guys used to wear at gas stations.
  2. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from BenderIsGreat in So, what side projects do you have going?   
    Here's a side project, sort of Star Wars related:




    I needed driver/passenger for my Defender, and well; Han & Luke Black Series figures fit perfectly!
  3. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from Viceroy Bolda in So, what side projects do you have going?   
    Here's a side project, sort of Star Wars related:




    I needed driver/passenger for my Defender, and well; Han & Luke Black Series figures fit perfectly!
  4. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Osoroshii in 2 Live Crew - Imperial Decimators   
    I guess they can be As Nasty As They Wanna Be
  5. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Duke of Advil in miniature market question   
    Does MM offer free shipping if you spend a certain amount like Amazon? I usually by locally, but some of the prices on bigger ships are hard to beat online
  6. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to LeeCHeSSS in Model-mod to make ships rotatable   
    Oh btw Osoroshii, have you had the chance to add magnets to the TIE Defender and Phantom?
    I've done it with one Phantom, but am not convinced it adds much lookwise (the completely symmetrical design of both these ships makes it hard to notice the model is tilted at all - not to mention that the peg limits the angle in which the Defender can pivot in the first place)...
    EDIT: Right, I decided to go a different route with my Defender:
    I snapped off the clear peg and cut away any leftover plastics with a small knife, then painted it black (I don't have proper modelpaint, so grey was not an option without going to a hobbystore). I fitted a small magnet into the engine of the Defender and also painted it black:

    Then I attached the familiar ringmagnet (it is *not* glued on):

    Finally I attached it to a peg/stand:

  7. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Joe Boss Red Seven in Model-mod to make ships rotatable   
    That turned out great man!

  8. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to fencer2 in Repaints and gaming tables.   
    I had it done for a while but didn't get any pictures of the finished table.
    Dinner side works great for other games requiring a bigger play area than x-wing. 
    The x-wing side works awesome, especially for dice rolls, templates storage, and beers







  9. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to LordCole in Repaints and gaming tables.   
    The cheapest solution would be to build a projection table. Basically a projector under the table displaying images onto the underside of the surface .
    Here is a example:

  10. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from Boomer_J in Game Table   
    Oh! That's going to be nice
  11. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from Boomer_J in So, what side projects do you have going?   
    Here's a side project, sort of Star Wars related:




    I needed driver/passenger for my Defender, and well; Han & Luke Black Series figures fit perfectly!
  12. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from Joe Boss Red Seven in So, what side projects do you have going?   
    Here's a side project, sort of Star Wars related:




    I needed driver/passenger for my Defender, and well; Han & Luke Black Series figures fit perfectly!
  13. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to gabe69velasquez in Rebel Aces On The Boat   
  14. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to krechevskoy in Reorganizing My X-wing collection....OCD is FUN!!!   
    I also have a similar post at my BGG same nome de plume. 
    So after wave 4 I needed to rethink my storage.   

    I found I was pulling a specific type of pilot and PS so I bought another Plano box solely for firing arcs, dials, maneuver templates and small cards. 

    With the above setup I can even violently shake the box and everything stays "in order".   It is not for the squeamish of the OCD to watch, but it sure is fun!!
    But this setup makes grabbing and putting pilots in easier than I had prior with all components in one area with the ship.   Easy with wave 1 and 2.   not so easy now.  And I have room for the larger wave 5 ships!!

    Brave Empire lads and lasses and a bunch of terrorists. 

    This isn't optimal card solution but I have the cards I need most split up to where I can get weapons and astromechs and then crew/medals/ etc.   As well as damage cards and ship's bases. 
    I then use FFG deckboxes to hold the larger card pilots.   

    the cards "under glass" are Soonter and Biggs.  If I did tournaments I would put chits and small cards in the bottom containers.   I did some work on them to fit the small cards. 

    I still keep my original plano box for the majority of chits and maneuver rules and range rulers. 5s go with the range rulers and all the rest of the maneuvers split up for each player. 

    Thanks for sharing my OCD with me.  I like when people post their storage ideas so I figured I would share my own. 
  15. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to ShadowClipse in Starfield Game Tile Kit?   
    I apologize the readers of this X-wing forum for giving them the burden of reading another thread about a past topic. Please don't flame on me. If you are stupefied about this problem point your finger at FFG. If they made the interface to these forums more user friendly, there would not be a problem. In this case I could not easily find a way to search this forum for the topic I am asking about. In addition, FFG has not made it easy to find updated information on this product in particular.
    My other alternative is to spend my precious time slogging through thousands of forum posts to eek out an answer. Some post topics have no useful description which would require me to potentially look at every single post. I don't have time for that, do you? I tried to make my post topic very clear. If it's something that bothers you, you have the option to skip over it. Let's try to keep this community respectful and helpful instead of making people feel bad for asking questions. I would like to see this community grow, not turn people away when they are curious about something.
    Perhaps instead you can provide constructive feedback, like directing me to the search function that seems to be missing on these forums? Thanks for your helpful answers to my simple question that I could not quickly find anywhere else.
  16. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Cubanboy in Wave 7   
    I have no idea about ships but my guess we will break the 50 ship id token and let's be real moer tokens is what I need in my life and your life.
  17. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Klasmars in Storing the Tantive IV   
  18. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Wayne Argabright in Storing the Tantive IV   
    waiting for the battle foam templates to come out....
  19. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Pygon in Storing the Tantive IV   
    Not a bad idea.
    Hopefully she won't get dressed with the lights off and show up at the party wearing a Corellian Corvette on her left foot.
  20. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to Gullwind in Storing the Tantive IV   
    My local Wal-mart had a stack of Faded Glory women's shoes on clearance for $5. The boxes are a perfect fit for the Corvette. A bit of foam to support the bow and you're good to go.
    Plus, your wife/girlfriend gets a pair of shoes and you get some brownie points.
  21. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from NotBatman in How many ships did you preorder?   
    We're sharing a brain! Exact same order amount, and gaming situation, for me...
  22. Like
    QuinnCee got a reaction from Cubanboy in How many ships did you preorder?   
    We're sharing a brain! Exact same order amount, and gaming situation, for me...
  23. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to fareast2 in Scratch Built Asteroids - Using Original Core Set Templates   
    I've been looking at a few of the tutorials on scratch built asteroids and thought I would share my method with you as I feel not only is it quicker but also yields very good results.

    What you’ll need;

    * Insulation form (unless you plan on building a complete asteroid belt try and get the smallest size you can or ask for off cuts)
    * Stanley knife
    * PVC Glue
    * 1500 Surface spray Black (Primer)
    * 1500 Surface spray Grey (Primer)
    * Brass rod 0.8mm (not necessary)
    * Modeling hand drill
    * Plasticard or modeling board
    * Clear Acrylic rod 4mm
    * Black, white, blue spray paint (I used Tamiya)
    * Black Acrylic paint
    * Black Ink
    * Modeling paint brushes
    * Sand Paper

    Step 1.

    First of all cut of some blocks around the same size as the asteroid you wish to make using the craft knife or Stanley blade.

    Once you have the size you want start removing corners to round off the edges and slowly form the shape of the asteroid.

    Step 2.

    This is where my method differs, asteroids are basically left over debris from the makings of the universe and have been floating around for a very long time, in that time they have been involved in collisions, strikes, etc and will be pocked and marked by these events. So to replicate this I used the pinching method.

    It’s very simple and replicates the effect of numerous impacts by smaller object.

    Taking your thumb and forefinger pinch off small pieces of the foam, you don’t want to be slicing it away with nails but physically pulling it off the rest of the foam, work your way around the foam remove flat edges and creating a landscape that you feel works for the shape you are using.

    If you make a massive crater on one, make sure to add lots of smaller impact sites inside it, also remove any ‘regular’ or ‘familiar’ shapes as you are trying to replicate something natural.

    Step 3.

    Once you have your basic asteroid, you should now rotate it in your hands to find the best face that you would like visible while on the gaming table. When holding it, make sure you are looking down and at an angle as that’s how it will be viewed on the table. Having found it you can then   put a temporary mount on it to hold it in place while you do the following steps.

  24. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to fareast2 in Scratch Built Asteroids - Using Original Core Set Templates   
    Step 4. (Optional)

    Now if you look at the cards that came with the core set you’ll notice that there is a lot of debris floating around the main body, if you want to have the same effect you need to make some smaller asteroids in exactly the same fashion – if you are working on very small ones then I would recommend using modeling needle nose pliers to pinch, however don’t grasp the foam too tightly others wise it will not give you the same effect.

    Once you have the smaller shapes cut off sections of the brass rod and use the PVC glue to bond the rod to the smaller asteroid and then the main body, again you might want to position the smaller pieces of debris first before bonding to see what looks best.

    You’ll have to leave the piece to dry now for about 24 hours before proceeding on to the next step.

  25. Like
    QuinnCee reacted to fareast2 in Scratch Built Asteroids - Using Original Core Set Templates   
    Step 5.

    Using the black surface (primer) spray your asteroid all over, make sure to get all the crevasses and holes. Don’t worry about paint building up as again this creates a very nice effect when you move on to the next stages of painting.

    Leave the asteroid to dry in a well ventilated room as the paint has a slight chemical reaction to the foam and gives off noxious fumes. Once dried go over it again especially if you can still see the base colour of the foam, again leaving to dry.

    Step 6.

    This step you are going to lay a base colour using the grey primer. The whole reason of using the primer again is that you don’t want a silky smooth finish that ordinary paint gives you, but the matt grainy finishes of primers.

    Now this is where you need to be careful as we are not going to coat the whole asteroid but apply only enough to coat the ridges and flattish sections, leaving the creators and areas under the smaller asteroids almost black. Also we are going to pretty much ignore the underside of the model as this will be considered the ‘Dark side’ of the celestial object.

    I would suggest holding the spray can about 30cm away from the model and using a side to side motion with the spray paint, while slowly rotating the model on it axis. (I use either kebab sticks or disposable chopsticks for this.)

    Once you have the desired effect leave them to dry in a warm, well ventilated room over night. In the meantime you can now start on the bases.

    Note; once the paint has dried now is a good time to come back and make sure you have the desired effect of the shadowing, if there are any areas that need to be dark go over them with a wash of black ink.

    Step 7.

    For these I decided to use the templates of the original ‘core set’ templates as this prevents any potential issues regarding those sticklers whom follow tournament rules.

    To match the bases all I did was draw around the originals and then cut them out.

    As I wanted something a little heavier to prevent the models tipping over I doubled the thickness of the base by bonding the first set onto the card and then cutting around it, then sanding off the edges to give a nice finish.  You could potentially use Tamiya model filler to close and gaps or give a really nice smooth finish to the edges.

    Using the modeling hand drill I then drilled a 4mm hole in the base and sanded off the debris found on the edges.

    Once this was done I used the black surface primer to coat the base and then once dried coated it again with a coat of matt black.

    I decided that I would give the base a star field finish to match my playing surface using the blue and white sprays.

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