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About Khyros

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    Advocate of A & E Wings Everywhere
  • Birthday 11/04/1988

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  1. Perhaps make it such that you have 600pts of ships, and you have to make a list of 400pts (max) to bring to each game. That way it represents that you have more ships in the sector that you can rebalance as the war effort goes on. Just a thought... And you can take it a step further that if you bring the same ship into combat in back to back games, it keeps its damage, but if you give it a game off, then it can repair.
  2. @Atromix ... So it turns out I am taking commissions on SSDs, but for the most part I'm doing them detailed more in line with the ISD and not as many lights as my first SSD. Here's the first one I've done at that level of detail.
  3. For that level of completion (cough, cityscape) not really. But for a well lit one, yeah, I will. https://www.etsy.com/listing/744695914/star-wars-armada-super-star-destroyer?ref=listings_manager_grid
  4. Thanks. And I 100% agree. I have no desire to do that again.
  5. It's almost done... just a couple more weekends and I should have a fully operational SSD. Now, to just actually play a game of Armada and put it on the table...
  6. Hey man, I didn't really do many of these, as I was having longevity issues with the Vader saber staying attached, and didn't really feel like debugging it to come up with a better solution (though I think I have one now if I ever get into the game myself) seeing as I primarily light X Wing and Armada stuff. But that said, the guy I did the Luke for did end up sending me a picture of him all painted up:
  7. Nicely done! As for your question regarding options for the base... This was one of the first ones I did like this, and I've drastically cleaned it up since then. I use LOSI connectors (https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Battery-Charging-Quadcopter-Multirotors/dp/B01MXE9IE8/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=losi+connector&qid=1571241863&sr=8-6) on the base, and JST connectors (https://www.amazon.com/Letool®30-1-25mm-Female-Connector-Cables/dp/B013JRWCBU/ref=pd_sbs_201_1/140-7988835-2191006?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013JRWCBU&pd_rd_r=30ac0d66-be51-4b13-a630-2920cc5b11d6&pd_rd_w=RsOJT&pd_rd_wg=sMEey&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=C1NDW2EQTARV1BYSY0G6&psc=1&refRID=C1NDW2EQTARV1BYSY0G6) between the fin and ship instead of all of these fickle magnets. But the overall concept is the same. Links just for reference.
  8. Hey there, congrats on taking the plunge! Feel free to shoot me a PM with any other questions, but let me answer as best I can here: 1) You should be able to open it up with an exacto knife. I did try doing a single one like that, thinking I could use a single LED and two FOs for the side engines (and I attempted to put FOs in the side, but the side is thinner than the actual FOs). It didn't quite go as planned for that, and I ended up just using the same SMDs as I do normally, I just routed the 40awg wiring inside instead of outside. Here's a picture of it opened up. 2) Yes*. And the asterisk is that it should be fine depending on the color LED you're using. Blue, Green, White, Purple are all 3-3.4V LEDs and you're fine. Red, Yellow, Orange are 2V LEDs and you'll need a resistor. 3) I used to paint everything black inside and recommend others to do the same, but I've evolved my practice and no longer do that. Judging by the picture you have there, I'm assuming you're looking to use a 1206 SMD LED in white to light the center engine. What I would recommend in that case would be to drill a hole in the engine for the wires before separating the two halves of the hull. Run the wires through the hull however you're planning, and glue the light itself on the outside of the ship. Gosh, scrolling through my instagram, I haven't posted any Raiders in awhile. But here's an early one with the LEDs on the outside. You can't see them once they're turn on, and when they're turned off, who cares?
  9. Pretty easy. No glue, just a few edge clips. It goes back just fine. I've test fitted sections as I put LEDs in various sections.
  10. Using my method, the hooks don't get cut, you just disengage them.
  11. Just for you, I did a quick download from my phone and grabbed a clip just for that. Sorry for the watermark, I figured doing it from my computer would be easier than my phone, but now I remember why I do it all from the phone...
  12. And to explain the thought of multiple batteries... The max size I can fit under a base is a 1000mAh 3.7V drone battery. There are 13 engines, so 13 red LEDs. Each one pulls 20mA, so they will pull a total of 260mA. Which means if there are no other lights, the battery will last 4 hours powering the engines. Not bad, but I don't know how many LEDs I'm going to have for the fiber optics. My preliminary estimate is around 10 LEDs to power the fiber optics. Which means that the largest single battery will only last for just over 2 hours - not even a full game. That's unacceptable to me ;). So what I'm thinking is making two unique circuits, one for the engines, and one for the fiber optics, and having a battery under each base to power those circuits, which should give me more like 4-5 hours of play time on those batteries. Alternatively, there's more space inside the ship, I could put a larger battery in the ship. But as I'm looking at how much space there actually is, and forward thinking to how many strands of fiber optics, and wires and LEDs, that space is going to very quickly get used up. Putting a battery in there is going to be a really tight fit with everything else.
  13. I am likely going to put the battery(ies?) Under the base(s) as has become normal for my Armada ships. And those batteries are 3.7V drone batteries, but require quite a bit of soldering. If you were to go with an internal battery, I would recommend a rechargeable battery such that you can seal the ship up and just have a usb port showing. In this case, I would probably recommend one of those cell phone battery backups, though it will still take some soldering to complete your circuit.
  14. Depends on where you want to put it. There are places where I'm having to remove materials just to make space for the bundles of FOs. But then there's the centerish area that's relatively open. My question when people talk about 9V batteries is always the same - how do you plan on changing/charging it?
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