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About TUZ

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  1. I find achieving a good drybrush result, especially on larger pieces, such as rock formations etc., can sometimes require more finesse / restriant than maybe is first thought. In my experience, this is because there can be an understandable desire to DB a large model or multiple scenery pieces quickly and hence you work with a bigger brush and more paint... so it's easy to fall into the trap of feeling you can rush the process a bit. I've been painting for years and still have to discipline myself sometimes to several layered drybrushes over just the one to get an overall better end result. I also like to dummy drybrush a paper towel several times before i actually drybrush the main model itself. This helps dry out / prepare the brush and leaves much smaller residule paint particles (almost dust like) on the bristles. In this way, through practice and a more delicate application, you can start to achieve a finish not too dissimilar to an airbrush... So definately don't worry about your drybrushing; it looks great buddy, and will get even better over time / experience ?
  2. TUZ


    Thanks, yes I think your right about dropping some of the domes / having flat roof options. I like the multi floor cantina building for this reason; enabling for better tactical options etc. I'd also like to consider walkways / linking buildings for the same reasons
  3. TUZ


    Cheers. TIES are the old AMT model kits
  4. TUZ


    Slight detour from the Tatooine buildings... To help break the routine of carving foam I decided i needed something a little different to model and paint. Enter the might of the Imperial fighter squadron and the crimson terror that is the Royal Guard Tie Interceptor... Staying with Tie Interceptors, here's another one. I think he deserves the addition of red stripes, synonymous with the feared 181st... Here it is next to a Bandai Snow Speeder for scale.. Next up are the Tie Fighters... I wanted to create flying stands for the ships, something that would lift them up high on the table. In this way they could bring some cinematic spectacle to the battle raging below. Once FFG release the game (and hopefully separately available flight stands), I can always re-base them to use them in-game... I made the bases out of 6mm mdf and inserted two lengths of dowl. In the end of these are attached the ball end of a magnetic joint, the socket end of which was modelled into the underside of each ship... It's pretty high up here!
  5. TUZ


    Ah man, that's a blessing and a curse, especially when it comes to hobby work as you say. I feel your frustration I live in the UK and have fallen foul of hot summer spray can syndrome, with a number of minis succumbing to the paint drying before it hits the model... Unsurprisingly, for an island that also likes a bit of rain, I've also fallen foul of primed minis 'ghosting' when there's too much moisture in the air (although olive oil is a good tip for fixing this). Someone should create a 'check spraying conditions' app.... I'd recommend an airbrush, as this can allow for indoor priming / painting. You'll need a spray booth and admittedly, the costs can vary from entry level prices through to quite a few hundred, but it's a great investment in the long run and don't be put off by what may initially be a confusing aspect of the hobby to get into (lots of good vids on YT for getting started). Definitely give the foam build a go ? The arrival of the plasticard sounds great; it's a really useful modelling medium, especially for embellishing / detailing models with things like frame and pipe work etc. Looking forward to seeing your build, cheers!
  6. TUZ


    Since start of Sept. It's been a bit of a slog at times! I'm fortunate to have a summer house with power where I can leave all the stuff set up and work until late if I'm on a roll. I'd already had experience with working with insulation foam (x-wing scale buildings and other projects), and most of the smaller buildings only take a day or two once you know the design you're after.
  7. TUZ


    A pic of all the buildings made to date. This is on a 4x4 ft table. It may make for some fairly tight games if a few extra barricades and low level obstacles are added along the two main thoroughfares. Maybe not great hunting grounds for speeder bikes?! The position of the two larger buildings (landing pad / cantina) on the opposite corners of the board will also likely see opposing forces taking advantage of the elevated rooftops to draw favourable lines of sight. I can already envisage another board / buildings being added to the south of this set up, expanding the table to 6x4 ft... making for a large city fight board with lots of alleys and tactical considerations...
  8. I see FFG and Amodee have announced the formation of Fantasy Flight Interactive. This could mean we see some interesting digital developments for the likes of Legion in the future?
  9. Great theme for a Legion table. Your ideas for the buildings are many and varied, providing lots of visual and tactical appeal. Really looking forward to seeing this build progress
  10. TUZ


    Looks fantastic! Great job. Love the modular roof / interior and the paint job is excellent, especially on the rock work ?
  11. TUZ


    To achieve the curved walls I use one solid piece of foam; Using a bowl of the circumference you want the building to be, draw a circle on to the foam. Then draw a slightly smaller circle inside, to the depth of your wall, for example, 1/2 inch. You now need to cut out the outer circle. I use a saw to do this. You don't need to cut a perfect circle at this stage, just cut out the shape about 5mm near the edge of your line. Then switch to a retractable knife and start refining the shape, getting closer to the line and constantly turning the circle to achieve an even finish. Finally, switch to your sanding stick / block (see previous post on equipment used), and start sanding down to a final smooth finish. Keep turning the foam so you end up with a nice, clean round block of foam. Finally, you need to core out the foam from the inside. Following the same principles described above work your way in towards the inner circle. I use a chisel to 'apple core' out from the centre. Once you've got a reasonable sized hole through, move to the knife and finally, sanding. Take your time on this; the foam can be quite brittle and can snap if your too vigouours with it. If it does, all may not be lost; you can glue / salvage the piece if it's a clean break. Keep persevering and hopefully you should end up with a nice 'O' shaped piece of foam ? Cheers
  12. TUZ


    Great advice; I shall give this a try on some test foam so I understand the finish and how subsequent paint coats may look. This is another great suggestion and one that I hadn't considered; the stone / cement look when dried is intriguing and could be just what I'm looking for on these buildings. I'll again do some test runs to see how things turn out ? It's an MPC (amt/ertl) model kit I think it's 1/48 scale. Slightly small for Legion but doesn't look too out of place
  13. TUZ


    Hi, Yes 1/2 inch foam board. You can get it in thicker sheets, but this is perfect for model wall construction. Great stuff re; your Lah'mu inspired board - should make for a dramatic setting for games of Legion. All the best with the build! Cheers
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