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About Agatheron

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  • Birthday 08/29/1969

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    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
  1. The only exception to this is a particular Insane card that specifically prevents an investigator from doing two of the same action in a turn. That makes it particularly difficult if one needs to run.
  2. A few panels can move from side to side, but I don't think talents are one of them. Plus, it doesn't support splitting a panel in two parts and having one on the left and one on the right. While the compact sheet can be used for anything, it doesn't work so well with established characters due to the sheer volume of information they contain. They work great for starting characters, or pregens (if, say, you're running a one-shot game at a convention), or for the GM to have summary sheets for the party when the detail on the Group sheet isn't cutting it But I wouldn't recommend them after the first 200 XP or so. Thanks. My players are on the cusp of 200 (around 150ish earned). The trouble is, they're not into the crunch as much as I am, so a summary sheet is ideal. Probably what I will do is print the compact sheet, but still print out their respective talent trees in order for it to be complete.
  3. I wanted to chime back in and offer ongoing Kudos for such a cool utility. The compact character form option is very welcome. I did notice one thing that may or may not be workable in how it arranges things on the compact page. I have one droid character who has a lot of skills and talents, but not a lot in the way of combat skills or equipment. As such, the left side of the form gets overcrowded and certain talents get dropped even if selected, but on the right hand side, there's lots of blank space. I'm assuming that the stylesheet or its equivalent has the talents tied to the left side of the page, and not the right. Is this something that can float around? I suspect that my question is far easier said than done. It's a fantastic utility, and even if this isn't possible, it's far and away the best character sheet generator for any system that I've seen.
  4. This discussion came up quite some time ago, and the consensus at the time was that Armor values don't stack, but if one is wearing multiple armors (ie. heavy clothing & a blast vest), you would only get the benefit of the better of two armours. So if 1 armor type was armor 1, defense 1, and the other was armor 2 and defense 0, the net result would be armor 2, defense 1. But you'd have encumbrance issues too...
  5. Don't forget that the Stellar Phenomenon rules are there as a "go to" roll when conditions really are hazardous. Han Solo wasn't doing much else other than yanking on the controls when being pursued by four tie fighters through a hyper-dense asteroid field. These rules provide guidelines for the difficulty of a given action. However, if an action has a set difficulty, such as making a combat check on a similar-sized ship, then that's where you start throwing in 1-3 setback dice to account for the terrain.
  6. Functionally, avoiding the terrain is the action, as opposed to a maneuver, so yes, its the only action they get. However, if I may flog my own work a bit, in "Stay on Target" it gives suggestions on how Advantage/Threat/Triumph/Despair can be spent in space combat when taking such actions. So it is possible that the pilot is only pulling off piloting actions in Stellar Phenomena, but roll well enough and you're inflicting damage on ships chasing you.
  7. Which side of the border are you on? I'm North, just picked up my stuff today
  8. I simply read the Disruptor from Rebels being the first real on-screen representation of a Disruptor. Yes, it took out an AT-DP in a single shot... or more specifically disrupted its controls enough to remove it from battle. I think that the Disruptor Rifle is a fair enough representation of a weapon that can really do some damage. I wouldn't change the stats in the game to match the "on screen performance" of the weapon, as really it existed as a plot device... As for Droids and Stun, while Ion Blasters are singled out as being specific for droids, I have always treated droids the same as meatbags when it comes to the stun settings on weapons...
  9. I think something else to keep in mind is that when a squadron is reduced to 0, it means that squadron is no longer functional... it doesn't necessarily mean it is completely wiped out. It could mean that individual ships are limping back to the hangar, or have chosen to disengaged. The abstracted nature of it allows a lot of room for interpretation. That being said, I am curious as to what the Home One and the ISD offer for additional Squadron options.
  10. I don't recommend Testors at all when working with small models. While acrylics dry faster than enamels, they are also more forgiving. Testors paints tend to be way too thick coming out of the bottles, and you need mineral spirits to thin them down properly. Acrylics like GW, Privateer Press or Army Builder thin with water. That having been said, I do use enamels and oils for detail washes and weathering, but not for getting the colors on.
  11. I think the presence of B-wings will also affect what objectives you choose for your own force. Any objective that has you hold back ships for later will favour B-wings because it will cut down the range they have to travel. Both Ys and Bs will need an Xwing escort to punch up their survivability.
  12. Nuln Oil is actually an acrylic wash... ...on the other hand I have some experience using actual oil washes for drawing out detail on models like this. I have several other things on my painting desk first that need to be done first, but I want to do my own paint jobs on these ships.
  13. When I first read this, I thought about flying squadron groups in formation types that could potentially maximise their effectiveness. For example, putting a pair of X-wing squadrons about range 1 in front of slower moving B-wing squadrons to take advantage of the Escort keyword. In that case, the formation of squadron stands would be an inverted V. Just a thought...
  14. The transformational book for me was actually a GW book: "Imperial Armour: Model Masterclass vol 1" --inspired me to take the plunge. There are some great techniques out there. One that I'd highly recommend is Michael Fichtenmayer's "Fichtenfoo" website. He does a lot of sci-fi stuff, including the same scale Millennium Falcon I'm working on. http://fichtenfoo.net/blog I'd be curious to see how he'd handle Armada repaints...
  15. Hi Everyone, I've not actually started my Armada Miniatures, but I have every intention to. The general advice to make details pop on the existing models is to make use of GW's Nuln Oil as a wash. It yields some decent, if dark results. For most miniature work, acrylic washes are definitely the way to go. I've been fortunate to have experimented with and am now comfortable using oils or enamel washes (usually MIG productions stuff) to bring out the detail on my models. The advantage to oils is that the longer dry time allows for a more precise application, and the capillary action renders the shading lines created by these washes much thinner than they would be with the acrylic washes. In other words, it helps keep the scale of the ship looking large. Here's a Revell model kit Venator that I painted up last year. First, after all the acrylic paint and decals had been applied, but without the pin washes: And after using Mig Productions "Cold Grey Wash": As you can see, the detail stands out nicely. A couple things to remember about oils, however: 1. Always apply the washes over gloss coats. In other words, paint the model to how you want it, spray it down with testor's glosscoat, or a tamiya gloss clear first. 2. Don't slop the paint over the whole model like an acrylic wash. Instead use a smaller brush, and touch it to the details you want to stand out, the washes will work their way into position by capillary action. If need be brush some thinner (use odourless thinner!!) over the model first, and this will help the washes work their capillary magic. 3. After about 15 minutes, use a paper towel over your finger to rub down the surfaces to remove excess wash from the facing surfaces, leaving the pigment in the cracks and around detail. 4. Let dry for at least 24 hours, and then spray down with a matte clear coat. Usually testor's dullcote is the best for this kind of thing. There's a lot of other things that can be done with oils. It's telling that there is actually an oil paint out there called "Starship Filth." I've used it on my various Millennium Falcon models. Here's an example of this type of wash being used on an X-wing miniature with similar texture to the Armada ships: Hopefully I'll start doing my own Armada stuff soon... but I have Imperial Armour miniatures to paint, plus a 1/72 Millennium Falcon to finish as well...
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