Seconding those posters who say it's not too late to get into the game.
 
The advantage of this being an LCG is that cards don't go out of print (at least not indefinitely), and so you can buy the first Hoth force packs for the same price as the latest Endor force packs. The second advantage is that you can know beforehand exactly which cards you will get from which set.
 
Buy a Core set (or two if you're lucky and find them for cheap) and you have a strong basis to start with.
I'd advise to also get an "Edge of darkness" set. That way, you can have a basic deck of all factions and get a feel of the different strategies of all factions.
 
Then you expand on the strategies you like and look for decks that really fit those strategies and first buy the force packs that contain the objective sets you need for those decks.
 
You can also be look for a play group in your neighbourhood. Most regular players are welcome to new players, and you could always ask them whether you can borrow a deck using more varied cards to get a feel of how specific strategies play.

I don't think the "survive the engagement unopposed" damage gets doubled.
 
The text reads: "after this unit survives an unopposed engagement deal 1 damage to the engaged objective" not "[...] it [the unit] deals 1 damage to the engaged objective."
 
If it was the Tie Advanced itself that dealt the extra damage (which would be phrased as "it deals damage", just like the effect of Chewbacca) then Maarek Stele would double it.
But the way the effect of Tie Advanced is phrased, it reads the same as a Target of Opportunity: the damage is just dealt.

Core rules, page 16: "After a player has generated sufficient resources from one or more resource-providing cards, he plays the card he revealed or executes the ability he designated."
 
So the order is: reveal the card, generate resources (in this case by exhausting all objectives), play card. Then the Rash Action is triggered as a reaction to the card having been played.
You can't have the reaction if the triggering condition (DS playing the unit) hasn't been fully finalised. So at that moment your opponent has no choice but to generate 2 resources from (an)other ready card(s), or put the focus token.

Core rules, page 16: "After a player has generated sufficient resources from one or more resource-providing cards, he plays the card he revealed or executes the ability he designated."
 
So the order is: reveal the card, generate resources (in this case by exhausting all objectives), play card. Then the Rash Action is triggered as a reaction to the card having been played.
You can't have the reaction if the triggering condition (DS playing the unit) hasn't been fully finalised. So at that moment your opponent has no choice but to generate 2 resources from (an)other ready card(s), or put the focus token.

I don't think the "survive the engagement unopposed" damage gets doubled.
 
The text reads: "after this unit survives an unopposed engagement deal 1 damage to the engaged objective" not "[...] it [the unit] deals 1 damage to the engaged objective."
 
If it was the Tie Advanced itself that dealt the extra damage (which would be phrased as "it deals damage", just like the effect of Chewbacca) then Maarek Stele would double it.
But the way the effect of Tie Advanced is phrased, it reads the same as a Target of Opportunity: the damage is just dealt.

Core rules, page 16: "After a player has generated sufficient resources from one or more resource-providing cards, he plays the card he revealed or executes the ability he designated."
 
So the order is: reveal the card, generate resources (in this case by exhausting all objectives), play card. Then the Rash Action is triggered as a reaction to the card having been played.
You can't have the reaction if the triggering condition (DS playing the unit) hasn't been fully finalised. So at that moment your opponent has no choice but to generate 2 resources from (an)other ready card(s), or put the focus token.

A few misconceptions that I encountered and only found out were wrong because there were relevant effects that impacted the way I played:
- You can only commit Ready Units to the Force during the Force Struggle (found out that was wrong when MtFBWY entered the card pool)
- You have to play a Reaction when the triggering condition happens (no, you don't have to take back all your units when The False Report enters play and you have Board control)
- You resolve unit damage bonuses when declaring the attack (Nope. Your Rogue Two will loose those additional Blast Damage if its two flanking speeders are Heat of Battle'd)
- When an enemy card effect affects one of your cards, it's the target of that card effect (Nope. When the only Vehicle you control is an undamaged Executor, destroying an X-Wing Escort means that you'll have to sacfrifice the Executor)

You can theoretically take control of almost all DS enhancements. If they require you to pay a specific DS resource to trigger their abilties, you can't use those abilities, but you can still control the Enhancement and deny your opponent the use of that enhancement. And if it's a unique, your opponent can't even play any other copies they might have of it.
 
As for resource generators, they become as effective as "neutral" resources for you (because you don't have Sith, Navy or S&V cards that need to be resource matched)
 
Other than that, nearly all Enhancements with an effect on units/Objectives will talk about effects on "you" or "your opponent".
"You" is the player who controls the card. So for instance, the LS player controlling an Orbital Bombardment ("Each unit you control gains [blast Damage]."), will give a Blast to all LS units.
 
Now if the enhancement specifically targets LS cards, it will be less useful than it would be for your opponent... but you can still choose not to trigger the action/reaction and deny your opponent use of it. e.g. when you're playing the Jerjerrod's Task Challenge Deck (Balance of the Force) you can choose to take control of Tactical Command Center ("Reaction: After an objective enters play, each light side player must deal 1 damage to a unit he controls, if able.") and use it for the resource. Since the reaction is not a forced reaction, you can choose to not trigger the "do damage" reaction of the enhancement, which in turn wil help you and your partners' units survive longer than if DS was still controlling that enhancement.

As Toqtamish mentions, currently the characters and settings still borrow heavily from the "Legends" EU (I've seen characters that fit in the Galactic Civil War setting that were taken from the Novels, the games, the Dark Horse comics, the FFG Star Wars RPGs, the original 70s/80s novels, the Clone Wars cartoon series, even a nod to the Newspaper comics ... actually most of the expanded Universe except the original Marvel run of Star Wars)
 
My guess is that the first "new EU" characters we'll see appearing will be from the Rebels cartoon series. Especially now that we know that certain characters from the prequels/Clone Wars cartoon series survived at least until a few years before the Battle of Yavin IV.
 
I'm not sure they'll incorporate the next trilogy soon ... probably not until all three new movies are finished and there is a clear interlinking narrative to build a new phase of gameplay around.

So I enhance my Rogue Three with Grey Squadron Gunner and Astromech Droid Upgrade.
 
My question is: Does Rogue Three now do 5 Unit / 5 Blast damage or 8 Unit / 5 Blast damage?
Rogue Three does gain +1U/+1B from Astromech Unit Upgrade and 2x +1U/+1B for the two enhancements being present. But is the effect of Grey Squadron Gunner based on the Blast damage Rogue Three starts off with (2) or the Blast damage it has when all "strike" effects are calculated (5)?
 
If it's the latter, you can almost one-shot the Executor with that combo ... that should make the DS think twice before they block your Rogue Three

In the beginning, the DS dial was indeed the biggest player in the Sith Control decks that gave the favour to the Dark Side. A typical Sith Deck (especially when composed by two Core sets) would be able to win by never attacking: Take the Force in the first turn; Turtle down and keep your cards in your hand for defensive Edge battle and if you're lucky you've got Counsel of the Sith as one of your objectives (draw an extra card when LS turn starts); Use your tactics units defensively (and many hand cards often means you can enable the Edge-dependent tactics of the Advisor to the Emperor, or the Emperor himself) to lock down your opponent's attack (and possibly defense) and play the nasty damage events (Force Choke or Force Lightning), preferably with Vader's reaction to pick off your opponent's most irritating units. Such a deck could just sit back and see the Death Star Dial tick ahead with two points every turn.
 
Later LS effects have reduced that tactic (Smugglers and Spies effect that give you bonuses for cards in the opponent's hand; Jedi Control that can tactics heavy units in play for less resources), so a typical Sith control deck will now find itself more on the offensive if only to speed up the dial or to knock out "while this objective is undamaged" effects.
 
 
 
Keep in mind that though the play minimum is 8 objective sets, a competition-legal Deck has a 10 objective sets (so 10 objectives and 50 command cards) minimum. As a result most deck descriptions you'll see on-line are for 10 objective sets.
 
Also, you do know that you can mix affilations in your decks, right? (So for instance: the core Sith objectives and Navy's Defense Protocol which was a typical objective to see in early Sith control.Mostly for its additional Twist of Fate and the one damage for one less card draw)
 
 
 
If you're catching up on the current card pool, there is no disadvantage to concentrating on the Force Packs of which you know that they contain the cards that fit best in your playing style (e.g. if you like to play aggressive Navy, the Hoth cycle has better cards than the Echoes of the Force. For Sith control, the Hoth cycle was quite lack-luster. For Jedi, Hoth was "meh" but A Hero's Resolve was a nice boost for the Fighter/Speeder aggro decks. While Echoes of the Force made Jedi a power-player). On-line resources like CardGameDB contain full card lists with all effects so you can confirm which Force packs you can go for first.
 
I guess that once they have all previous sets, most serious players will keep up with the new packs. At 15 USD a month, there certainly are more expensive hobbies out there >cough cough<MtG>cough cough<. But I understand there are players that wait for the spoilers and strategy suggestions of the new Force Packs before they decide to buy them or not.
 
PS. From what I've seen so far, the Forum management isn't exactly strict in enforcing "on-topic" rules (especially if they are the result of an ongoing thread). Still, you could start a new thread in General or Strategy if you want to discuss the specific Force Packs. This might invite feedback from other players that are not interested in discussing rules.

That's indeed quite counter-intuitive in the beginning, especially if you play with only one copy of each Objective set and you know there's no chance of seeing that card again. But holding on to a more expensive card "until you can play it" will pollute your hand and reduce your chance of drawing a less stellar but still useful card that you can play.
 
 
Unless when you play it of course
 
Twist of Fate continues to shape Edge battles, but not as much as they used to do in the beginning. There aren't that much of them in the later sets, so it's not unusual to see decks without any Twist.
 
Of course, even if you see a lot of the recent cards, you can't be 100% sure that your opponent has no twist, so when an attacker passes after playing one card in the Edge, it's always a question whether it's a Twist, a big Unique card ... or just a bluff.
 
 
 
Also, keep in mind that there is no limit to how many focus icons you place on a unit through tactics (as long as you have enough tactics strikes to deal them out) Sometimes you will want to ignore your opponent's weenie and bury their heavy hitter in tactics icons. Especially Elite units can often only be kept at bay by burying them in focus tokens.
 
 
 
Indeed. And it's always good to go back over your older sets when the new sets come out, because sometimes you discover exciting new ways of using less appreciated objective sets with the newer sets.
 
A good example is Mobilize the Squadrons. The Objective is powerful, no doubt about it. Rebel Assault? Don't mind if I do (though not exactly cheap). The X-wing and the rookie pilot are cheap, but quite vulnerable as well and don't do a lot of objective damage as they are. And then there's the Trench Run ... Looks like a great way to end the game early, but very conditional on when you draw it. If you can't play it in your first two turns, you should probably already have put enough damage on your opponent's objectives that continuing to strike those objectives requires less Blast damage than what you need to take out the Death Star dial.
 
So though you would see a Trench Run from time to time, it wasn't exactly common.
Then the last Force Pack in the Echoes of the Force cycle arrives and in it is a power-combo (Force Barrier with Asteroid Base) that can take out the Death Star in practically one turn, so playing a Trench Run late in the game is no longer a problem and immediately, I've seen a lot more Trench Run being played.
 
 
Ah ... that sweet exitement of discovering new cards and possibilities.
 
 
I guess there's some discussion about that (including on this forum), especially when it comes down to competetive play.
 
At the beginning (When only the Core and Hoth cycle was out) there was a noticeable advantage for Sith Control decks (Vader, Palpatine and their associated tricks) so you did see more DS wins than LS.
 
Then the Edge of Darkness expansion arrived and Smuglers and Spies got a very powerful boost ... those were the days of the much dreaded Sleuth decks. And the first Force packs of Heroes and Legends gave Smugglers & Spies additionally powerful cards that so many people played that combo it actually had to be restricted (decks can only have one of the objective sets from the combo, not both) so in those days there were indeed complains about the balance having been broken.
 
But as Heroes and Legends advanced, it was clear that the real powerful Smugglers and Spies cards were in the first packs. Jedi became more powerful in the later packs (including the afore mentioned combination) and with Between the Shadows, Jedi really got a boost, making it possible to consistently win with Mono Jedi.
 
And now with the first Pack of Rogue Squadron, I have already seen powerful new tricks for Imperial Navy and Rebel Alliance, and expect those factions (and Scum and Villany) to gain some momentum in the rest of the cycle.
 
So in short, I think that by now, the card pool has matured enough that it's possible to work out a powerful winning strategy for each faction (and thus side) but "auto-includes" will reduce in number so it will become more and more difficult to really plan against one specific type of deck. So while it should be possible to have the right "anti-deck" against one type, it will leave you completely open to another type of deck.
 
And in my opinion that's a good thing, because that means that your win chances will be defined more by how you construct your deck and play your game, than by which deck your opponent plays, which in turn will make it possible for players to use the kind of deck they enjoy, because more and more, every kind of deck has powerful tricks.

Usually, I'll try to make sure to "bet all" on one Edge battle and accept a loss on the other (because I have Edge independent icons; order of strike is irrellevant to me or I am sacrificing a unit to force my opponent to focus theirs) though I usually don't use up more than 2 cards in an Edge battle on average.
 
Usually, I try to keep one or two cards in my hand for my defense ... if only to bluff my opponent into throwing more cards in his attack edge battle than needed, or make them think I still have an Action ready to play (playing Sith has once forced my opponent to keep their Han Solo in their hand for two turns because I constantly kept one card in my hand with Vader in play, and they were afraid of the Force Choke / Vader combo)
 
Of course, is your only hand card is Yoda or the Emperor and you throw that in your defense Edge, this can seriously mess up your opponent's attack as well ... especially if you have units with Tactics ready. Sometimes, having a turn with a mediocre attack can prepare the way for having a nearly unimpeded attack your next turn.

It will usually depend on what else you have lying on the board and what your opponent it surrently showing.
 
If your other than the Devestator, you don't have heavy hitters, it's often better to play defensively (especially since DS has the dial working for them) and keep your other units ready to block the LS attack, forcing the LS to put more cards in the Edge battle then when you had played your hand empty on your second attack. Maybe even take the Force to speed up the dial.
 
This means that for your next attack, the LS will have less defensive capacities, making it easier to waltz over two objectives and ending the game.
 
However, if you have many weenies and Orbital bombardment in play, it's probably better to swarm your opponent and put as much damage on the LS objectives as possible since your bonus is edge-independent making it less important to win the edge battle (depending on the LS edge-dependent defensive capacities of course) and the damage you could do while defending with weenies would probably make it less interesting to keep them back.

Engaging multiple objectives can be difficult during the first two ronds or so, but not impossible.
 
A good way is to attack your opponent with a low-cost unit that has tactics (eg Believer in the old Ways or Jawa Scavenger) If your opponent does not block, you win the Edge battle by default and can focus one of their defenders (always neat to focus Vader) and put one unopposed damage on that objective. This will make it easier for your next engagement to do real damage.
 
Or if your opponent does block your weenie, they will have to use one of their units that cannot be used to block your "main" attack, and it you're lucky, you can even win the Edge battle, focus a second unit not part of the current engagement and sacrifice your weenie to the blocker.
 
Of course, some decks are built alongst the swarm principle (Tie Swarm; Troopers; Speeder/fighter) where you can quickly have a lot of units in play that allow you to devide your attack over multiple objectives. Especially if you have good tactics units, it can be more practical to lock your opponents board and then spread out the damage over multiple objectives so you can put in some unopposed damage and "whittle down" all objectives equally, leaving them vulnerable for the killing blow the next turn.
 
And of course, if your opponent has irritating "while this objective is undamaged" effects, you'll want to knock those out as soon as possible as well.

I agree that S&V and S&S only got under steam with the Edge of Darkness (which is often considered to be the Scum & Spies core set). But from the beginning, adding Han Solo to your deck could make for interesting play. His "shoot first" ability of dealing one damage and his Targeted Strike can really play havoc with the DS units, especially if they don't play Sith or just don't manage to draw Force Choke or Force Lightning.
 
I actually find that playing multi-color can really enhance a strategy. Early Tie Swarm decks for instance had two Black Squadron Assault alongside the Navy Fighter decks (Defense Protocol, Kuat reinforcements, Imperial Command and the Endor Gambit e.g.)
 
And with the first Rogue Squadron Force Pack (Prepare for Take-Off) the Navy/Sith Tie Swarm has really gotten dangerous.
 
 
Not necessarily if you choose the right balance of objective sets. In that case, you can be sure that you always have a resource match to play at least one card of each affilation.
 
The most often seen method is to "splash" one objective set (or two) of one affilation, and have the remaining objective sets be the other affilation. Say you want to splash the Han Solo objective set Questionable contacts (two units with black Tactics and the Swindled event are good reasons to splash it even if it wasn't for Han's "shoot first" ability.) then you play the Smuglers and Spies affilation and keep the remainder of your objective set Jedi or Rebel.
 
Granted, you will not be able to play your "X affilation only" objectives, but the more you expand your card-pool, the less often you will have absoluetly no powerful alternative to the "X affilation only" objective you were thinking of.
 
If you splash an Affilation and make sure you never include more than 3 objective sets of that affilation, you will be certain that you will always have at least one objective set of your other affilation in your opening objectives. Because you draw 4 objectives, of which you put one on the bottom of your deck, even if you have a very improbably draw of all 3 splashed affilation objectives, you will have at least one of the main affilation and two of the splashed affilation. Sure, this will reduce availability of resources at times, but thanks to Neutrals in most objective sets and the right resource generator at the right time, you'll normally be able to keep the game going.
And more realistically, you'll probably have 1 or at most 2 of the splashed affilation in your opening draw.
 
The other method (if you have a powerful X affilation only card in your main affilation that you absolutely want/need to keep) is to go for a 4 (side affilation) /6 (main affilation) split. I'm not sure about the exact numbers but in that case, the chance of you not drawing an objective of the side affilation is pretty low, and in case you draw all 4 of them, you'll always have the affilation card to play your main affilation cards.
 
Finally, a less common method (because there aren't much objective sets that fit the bill) is to play objective sets that are less affilation-dependent because they have useful 0-cost cards, or many Neutral cards. So if you splash that objective set but play the Main affilation, you can still use most of the cards in the splashed objective set even if you don't get the right affilation objectives on your opening draw.
 
And once again, the more cards you have, the more tricks there are to still get those cards in play anyway. e.g. In the Hoth Cyle, there's a Jedi objective set that has often been played in Rebel Fighter/speeder decks. A Hero's Resolve has a version of Luke Skywalker that can be used as a pilot enhancement on fighters and Speeders. This is the only Jedi card in that set. In the past, if you didn't have the right resource, that card was only useful in the Edge Battle. But now with the new Fate card Stay on Target, you can "put a pilot card into play" without ever having to worry about its affilation.
 
 
After the Core set, most Capture effects are Scum and Villany. Off my head I think there's only one additional Sith objective that has capture effects.
So you won't need to match too much affilations if you want to play a Capture deck.
 
Also, as for playing three affilations, that's more difficult indeed. I don't think I've heard of many strategies to consistently play three affilations and not getting resource-screwed.
 
 
 
Not necessarily. In my experience, typical theme decks are based around:
- A power Combo (e.g. the Jedi/Gamor Run or the Trench Run/Asteroid Base combos)
- Units with the same key-word that will thus all benefit from specific power-boosts or related effects (Trooper deck; Tie Swarm; Speeder/Fighter; Wookiee Life Debt; Ewoks; creatures; Hoth decks; Shields)
- Comparable effects that will have a consistent results (Heavy Imperial Navy with cost reducers)
- Having the same effect (Capture decks; Sith Control; Jedi Control)
- Story-consistent combos (like Super-Friends: Falcon, Chewie, Han, Leia or Luke)
 
And one thing remains ... the more you expand your card base, the more themes you see that really "speak" to you.

It will usually depend on what else you have lying on the board and what your opponent it surrently showing.
 
If your other than the Devestator, you don't have heavy hitters, it's often better to play defensively (especially since DS has the dial working for them) and keep your other units ready to block the LS attack, forcing the LS to put more cards in the Edge battle then when you had played your hand empty on your second attack. Maybe even take the Force to speed up the dial.
 
This means that for your next attack, the LS will have less defensive capacities, making it easier to waltz over two objectives and ending the game.
 
However, if you have many weenies and Orbital bombardment in play, it's probably better to swarm your opponent and put as much damage on the LS objectives as possible since your bonus is edge-independent making it less important to win the edge battle (depending on the LS edge-dependent defensive capacities of course) and the damage you could do while defending with weenies would probably make it less interesting to keep them back.

Engaging multiple objectives can be difficult during the first two ronds or so, but not impossible.
 
A good way is to attack your opponent with a low-cost unit that has tactics (eg Believer in the old Ways or Jawa Scavenger) If your opponent does not block, you win the Edge battle by default and can focus one of their defenders (always neat to focus Vader) and put one unopposed damage on that objective. This will make it easier for your next engagement to do real damage.
 
Or if your opponent does block your weenie, they will have to use one of their units that cannot be used to block your "main" attack, and it you're lucky, you can even win the Edge battle, focus a second unit not part of the current engagement and sacrifice your weenie to the blocker.
 
Of course, some decks are built alongst the swarm principle (Tie Swarm; Troopers; Speeder/fighter) where you can quickly have a lot of units in play that allow you to devide your attack over multiple objectives. Especially if you have good tactics units, it can be more practical to lock your opponents board and then spread out the damage over multiple objectives so you can put in some unopposed damage and "whittle down" all objectives equally, leaving them vulnerable for the killing blow the next turn.
 
And of course, if your opponent has irritating "while this objective is undamaged" effects, you'll want to knock those out as soon as possible as well.

The action of Asteroid Base is a free action. And there is no limit to how many actions you can take during the Action Window, as long as you have legal tarkets for the action and can pay for them. The only important point is that you alternate with the opponent.
 
So order of play would have been:
LS Action: play Force Barrier
DS: can play an action if they want and can
LS Action: Remove the shield from unit 1 to give that unit +1 U and +1 B until the end of the phase (i.e. the whole Engagement phase)
DS: Can play an action if they want and can (e.g. Force Choke a 1 HP weenie)
LS Action: Remove the shield from unit 2 to give that unit +1 U and +1 B until the end of the phase
DS: Can play an action if they want and can
 
etc. until all 7 units have exchanged their shileds for +1U +1B
And after LS has done all that, DS player can still play an action ... Like Force Storm all those now unshielded weenies.

For those who are still curious about this, I got the official answer from FFG:
 

I used to have my card in a binder so it would be easy to have an overview of what cards are in a pod and make my choises that way while constructing my decks. However, I found it was really tedious to constantly switch pods in and out of the binders while playing around with constructing different decks. And I like constructing different decks because what else to do with all those cards that aren't competition-level killer objectives?
 
So I went back to putting my cards (sleeved from the moment I opened the package) in a Core-box and using some cardboard deviders not unlike the above linked triplex inserts (boy, am I tempted to buy those. Looks more stury than my cardboard arts 'n' crafts project) which makes it a lot easier to swap objectives.
 
Of course, that meant I lost the ease of quickly seeing which cards were available in each pod; especially the pods I didn't use too often ... talk about catch 22.
 
So I recently worked out a solution to that problem. I printed contact sheets of all objectives sets, putting 3 sets on one landscape oriented page or 6 on a Portrait oriented page *. I then cut the sheets by Objective set, so I now have a stack of reference sheets that have one objective set each, and which I can easily use to construct a deck. I can see at a glance how many damage I have in each unit, how many resources, fate cards, average cost of each unit, etc.
 
I think this is so far the most effective way I could think of to combine the ease of having an at-a-glace overview of each pod with the ease of having all cards easily available without the need of rotating them in and oud of binders.
 
 
 
------------
* The images on the "Portrait" oriented pages are a lot smaller so it's not as easy to read the text on each card, but that's usually not a problem because the important effects, I already know. The advantage of that lay-out of course is that it uses up less paper (and less ink)

I used to have my card in a binder so it would be easy to have an overview of what cards are in a pod and make my choises that way while constructing my decks. However, I found it was really tedious to constantly switch pods in and out of the binders while playing around with constructing different decks. And I like constructing different decks because what else to do with all those cards that aren't competition-level killer objectives?
 
So I went back to putting my cards (sleeved from the moment I opened the package) in a Core-box and using some cardboard deviders not unlike the above linked triplex inserts (boy, am I tempted to buy those. Looks more stury than my cardboard arts 'n' crafts project) which makes it a lot easier to swap objectives.
 
Of course, that meant I lost the ease of quickly seeing which cards were available in each pod; especially the pods I didn't use too often ... talk about catch 22.
 
So I recently worked out a solution to that problem. I printed contact sheets of all objectives sets, putting 3 sets on one landscape oriented page or 6 on a Portrait oriented page *. I then cut the sheets by Objective set, so I now have a stack of reference sheets that have one objective set each, and which I can easily use to construct a deck. I can see at a glance how many damage I have in each unit, how many resources, fate cards, average cost of each unit, etc.
 
I think this is so far the most effective way I could think of to combine the ease of having an at-a-glace overview of each pod with the ease of having all cards easily available without the need of rotating them in and oud of binders.
 
 
 
------------
* The images on the "Portrait" oriented pages are a lot smaller so it's not as easy to read the text on each card, but that's usually not a problem because the important effects, I already know. The advantage of that lay-out of course is that it uses up less paper (and less ink)

Always in motion the future is.

Always in motion the future is.

All three of them would probably be too overpowered.
 
However, Pilots & non-unique officers would fit better with the lore of defectors from the Imperial Academy, than Troopers ... Good point.
 
So updated to incorporate the new "pilot" rules:
 
 
WR1 1/6    Mutiny on the Rand Ecliptic             Objective    Rebel
Limit One per Deck
1 Resource    Damage capacity: 5
Action: Focus this objective with X focus tokens to take control of target Pilot or non-unique Officer card where X is the cost of this card.
Forced Reaction: If this objective leaves play, all Dark Side units you control return to their owner's hand.
 
 
WR1 2/6    Biggs Darklighter (Unique)                Unit        Rebel
Cost: 2    Damage capacity: 2        Force Icons: 2
[T]
Character. Pilot.
Pilot (2)     When this card is piloting on a friendly vehicle unit with Damage Capacity 3 or less, piloted vehicle gains Protect Vehicle and +1 Damage Capacity.
 
WR1 3/6    Derek "Hobbie" Klivian (Unique)            Unit        Rebel
Cost: 3    Damage capacity: 2        Force Icons: 1
U U
Character. Pilot.
Pilot (2)       Reaction: After you Refresh, when this card is piloting a vehicle unit with cost 3 or less, take control of piloted vehicle.
"Two Fighters against a Star Destroyer?"
 
 
WR1 4/6    Red Squadron Fighter                    Unit        Neutral
Cost: 2    Damage capacity: 2        Force Icons: 1
U
Vehicle. Fighter.
When this vehicle is piloted, it gains when attacking a [Navy] objective.
 
 
WR1 5/6 YAAHOOOOOO!                            Event        Rebel
Cost: 2        Force Icons: 1
Interrupt: Target friendly player takes control of a Light Side unit currently not under his control.
"You're all clear kid! Now let's blow this thing and go home!" - Han Solo
 
6/6    Stay on Target                                      Fate