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Everything posted by Addum

  1. Not only is Greedo fantastic to paint and a terrific sculpt, he is one of the most fun figures in the game to play. A real damage dealer and his range was a big surprise. After painting Blaise and playing with him a few times I am over the sculpt . He is awesome.
  2. Hi Nickv2002, everyone. I made some edits to Nickv2002's script to output a combined jpeg. However this produced a jpeg with a resolution of 96dpi. I had to manually rescale and resave at 300dpi using an editor. I also edited the script after all the files were all downloaded to ignore the download part. I renamed the maps 01 to 06 for the ones I wanted to print. I took delivery of the roll of 6 maps last night. I love it. I will be ordering the rest while the sale is on. I had to flatten the edge end of the roll down with a steel ruler as it curled up a little. By the end of the game it was pretty much flat. I will cut them into individual maps tonight.#
  3. PIXARTPRINTING PVC BANNER SALE. (UK??) http://click.mail.pixartprinting.com/?qs=4ac8e9fcefa552c30aafcc9e75962fc25b6b45c2beea9a9505b9d159297d43e8779f9bb25b9af8c0 Not sure if its co.uk only even though the link says com. 1 sheet of 6 maps shipping for about £9. PICK THE SLOWEST DELIVERY POSSIBLE GOT MASSIVE REDUCTION IN COST!! Hope this helps some of you.
  4. I'm glad you found a use for him a1bert. His pose is great,
  5. I have sent a mix of 6 maps we like to play off to pixartprinting. £12.20 for a single banner with 6 maps on it. I used the Python/PIL (2.7) script from nickv2002 to grab the maps I wanted. I did have to edit the script a little to suit my needs but it was a tremendous help. Thanks Nick. Once again Ibsh, many many thanks. @Baramon. The rounded corners is a decent idea but most printers will charge a lot more for extra treatments like that. I am not familiar with cropmarks but again if you are asking the printer to cut the roll for you it may become rather expensive. Pixart's banner products are for outdoor use so i'd assume that there some UV protection in there. I just paid £2.03 GBP for each map, printed and delivered in a big banner roll that I will take a pair of good scissors to for free.
  6. @ibsh I just wanted to post my appreciation of your work. I know its a one man show and must take up a lot of your free time. I have been waiting for the new maps and a sale on pixart before pulling the trigger on all of them. I hope you are able to continue your most excellent work in the future.
  7. For me, I would like to have Jabba's Palace and Endor in the same Big Box set. Map tiles have 2 sides. Then Vader, Palp, Jedi Luke on the Death Star for the showdown for the small box expansion following on from that. Jabba' Palace would offer such a fantastic location for battles and would introduce so many amazing units to play. It has to be the primary location for the next act. Hoping.
  8. Wonderful. This happens to be how I have been playing it, casually. Glad to eventually hear the clarifications. Thanks to all those who chased up an answer from FFG. Appreciated. There is perhaps one outstanding question that I think we know the answer to. An Ugnaught activates and triggers 'Scrap Battalion' thus readying the droid. During the Ugnaught's activation the figure (Ugnaught) is removed from play. Can the readied droid still perform its activation? Or must it wait for the next 'Scrap Batallion' to trigger because there is no 'after' once the Ugnaught is no longger in play?
  9. IG-88 is fantastic. I love it. Makes me want to repaint mine. My only criticism is that such a fabulous model requires a special base....
  10. Hi, With more stubborn models I put them in the oven at about 60 to 70 degrees Celsius. This helps the heat penetrate the model and makes it quite malleable. I would use some bracing, matchsticks etc, to help correct the pose. Then straight into the freezer to set the plastic again. With your dragon, focus on the base of the wings where it meets the back. Perhaps something inbetween the wings to push them apart. I have found that the longer the model is in the oven the less likely it is to revert to its 'memory' pose. Obvious risks are that you will end up with a dripping puddle of plastic instead of a dragon if the temp is to high.
  11. Dagobah. Plenty of line of sight challenges with difficult and impassible terrain options. Perhaps a new type of foliage based door token. Same rules as a door but thematically sitcks instead of plastisteel.
  12. In the amazing artwork, I think, or at least I hope, it's a truncheon that he is holding in his right hand. Maybe a torch/flashlight. In the sculpt, I think he is holding an imaginary truncheon. I think the sculpt is fantastic. The detail looks great. All of it. The weapon, helmet, facial expression, cloth, armour. All the things you might want if you are to paint him. His pose leaves me thinking something I'm not supposed to think about in the heat of battle.
  13. Thanks Elrath. Appreciate the comments. I think Mephiston would have worked just fine. I beleive that the older the Mon Calamari, the darker the skin tone, so anything goes really. I went for a more neutral overcoat. The jacket is a base of Steel Legion Drab washed in Agrax Earthshade. I then mixed Karak Stone with Drab in several layers and finished with pure Karak Stone. I think I should have mised in a little palid wych flesh with the KS to a popping highligh on a fer corners of the jacket, lapels etc. Combat pants and the backpack are Castellan Green up to Elysian Green. 'Aka Sorastros Bobafett's scarf.' Boots and Straps are Mournfang brown, washed in Agrax and highlighted with Skrag Brown. I did not realise till later that the boots have chaps or whatever they are called. I would have done something different with the different parts there.
  14. Loku was a lot of fun to paint. I base coated the skin with Khorne Red, then Carroburg crimson. Then I layered with many, many thin coats of different reds wazdakka red/evil suns scarlet up to a highlight of wild rider red. (experimenting with the red without really knowing where I was going with it) Focusing on the facial features, lumps on the crown, eye sockets and tops of hands/flippers. Then, at the very end, I washed twice with Cassendora Yellow and he turned from redto glorious orange overall. He was looking a bit red up until that point. He looks better at arms length than in this photo.
  15. Thanks Elrath. I painted Loku's skin last night. Really happy with the result. Thanks for the tips. I used all the reds you suggested. I still found him a bit red so I used Cassendora Yellow shade on him. Wow what a pop. Sudden transformation of red to orange. Ill try to post a decent picture later on.
  16. Thanks Elrath. I'll give that a go. I think it's the fleshshade which helps make it less red. I'll post a final shot when im done.
  17. Elrath, I would really appreciate it if you could share what you used on Loku's skin tone. I'm struggling.
  18. I play skirmish with my 7yo. He loves building 40 point squads and it really helps develop his arithmetic. We play without command cards, terminals are 2 point if you control one at the end of the round, and we play the mission objectives most of the time. We can play a 40 point match in about 45 minutes. Chucking dice and moving guys around it plenty fun.
  19. I'm no expert, but priming does a couple of things. Mainly, It helps the acryllic paint adhere to the surface of the mini. (not entirely necessary with the IA minis). It also affects the hue/tone of the subsequent layers of paint. The Fang is a fantastic and versatile colour to start painting on with. As you can see with Ariamn, the Blue will only really show through where the subsequent coats are thinnest. I suggest a few thin layers of Leadbelcher, letting each layer dry properly. Then a shade with Nuln Oil or perhaps a mix of Nuln and Drakkenhoff Nightshade for a slightly blue shadow. Then a heavy drybrush with something like Ironbreaker. If you dry brush with Necron Compound or Runefang Steel (which is a much lighter silver) then another shade with Nuln Oil over it to darken overall while maintaining the contrast between metals would be nice. I painted the lenses really dark grey then glazed them blue or red. A final coat of thinned 'ardcoat is a fantastic effect.
  20. Lovely Wampas Elrath!! These bases turned out really well with the blue glaze helping contrast against the icy snow. I may have to pick up some Mourn Mountain Snow texture paint. Palms are terrific.
  21. The stripes on the base works really well. I guess you can repeat the stripe patter on opposite sides of the base as well so it can be seen from multiple angles. With my shoulder pad markings I often need to pick them up to check what number in the squad they are.
  22. I bought some wooden, holeless buttons, primed them then painted them different colours. I then stuck some old warhammer 1,2 and 3 decals on them then varnished matt. The figures have a set of buttons matching their base colour. I manage the damage offboard with these.
  23. My goodness Oldenhammer. Those eyes are stunning. I love these.
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