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About Ecgtheow

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    Hazelwood, Missouri, United States

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  1. I scrolled back to see if I missed it, but couldn't find a thread. As of JUL 26, L5R has been marked as on ze boat.
  2. I would buy a cardboard or neoprene terrain pack in a heartbeat. Less sure about 3d terrain (I've got a fair bit already, and I've become converted to the convenience & portability of flat terrain when going to the LGS).
  3. This game is going to be perfect for campaign play, I'm really hoping FFG jumps on it sooner rather than later.
  4. Let all that dry and then apply your grass. The two main options are static grass or tufts. I've mostly used static grass in the past, but have started playing with the tufts recently, and will probably use a mix of both going forward. Lots of colors to choose from, from the usual suspects. Galeforce9, Citadel/GW, Army Painter. For static grass, get your watery glue mixture going again and paint dollops of glue wherever you want grass to go. I aim for about half the base to be covered, paying attention to places where I've made mistakes (maybe a bit of paint drybrushed onto a boot) or places I couldn't get the full colors of the dirt drybrushed (between feet for example). Set your figure onto your work area and rain grass down on your model, it'll be messy, that's okay. Get plenty on. Then turn your figure upside down and tap the bottom with a brush handle or something to knock off excess and hopefully get the static grass to stand up a bit. For tufts, just apply a dot glue to a spot, take a tweezer, and stick a tuft onto the glue-dot. And that's it, basic basing like you'd see in a GW or Privateer catalog. You can add tiny rocks, different grass materials, use pumice gel, or half a thousand other things, but that's the start. --Edited to add Grass should be the very last thing you do, by the way. If you put a sealant on your figures, it'll catch on the grass and glob onto it.
  5. I'm trying to find a video I like, but they either talk too much, or use advanced techniques. I'll try to give a quick description, and hope that helps. It's not terribly complicated. As an aside, I think the how to paint Waiqar guide covers basing. I like to paint my figures first, then base. Others suggest gluing ballast on before priming. Either works. Ballast, sand, tiny rocks. These will simulate your ground. I'm currently using a tub of Citadel Sand, but Army Painter and Galeforce 9 make comparable products. Go for the cheapest, it's just sand after all. The important part is to make sure it is of a fine consistency. Get some white glue (Elmer's) and pour a bit into a pallete or very small bowl, add a bit of water to help it flow (say a 3:1 glue to water ratio, doesn't have to be exact, just eyeball it, or skip it and go straight elmers). Take an old paintbrush, mix the glue and water together and paint it onto your base. Once done, take your figure, set it into your sand container and get sand on the base. Lift figure out, turn upside down, tap bottom of base to knock off loose sand. After the sand dries, get a brown paint, mix it 1:1 with water and paint the sand. Use a lot, but don't slop it on your figure. P3 Umbral Umber is my usual paint for this, Army Painter Leather Brown or something similar will work fine too. After the brown dries, give it all a good drybrush of a lighter color (P3 Rucksack Tan for me, AP Desert Yellow as an alternative). Then a lighter drybrush of something like P3 Jack Bone or AP Skeleton Bone. To be continued....
  6. It's a 6 paragraph section in the rules reference (77.5), can't type it all, as I'm on a kindle, but it seems to cover all options. Last resort is you leave units at the point of contact but they count as engaged.
  7. I was wondering if the Flesh Star Destroyer would transmogrify to a Flesh Dragon.
  8. You can also get the washes in 18ml bottles for $3.25 if you don't want to bother with the big cans.
  9. On the one hand, $30 isn't out of bounds if the miniatures are of good quality. On the other hand, $30 will be enough to discourage most of the locals I know, who were already on the fence, from buying in.
  10. I say do it! If there's an organized play option suitable for new ideas, it's going to be the Corellian Campaign. Between matchups, and the ability to use a restart if your fleet gets wiped, why not try something original? (I'm running 3x ISD-IIs, Motti, and Blast Doors all around. Came out of Round 1 intact, was able to match against a lower-squad Rebel fleet.)
  11. Party? I'll prepare the skull-cups for the blood of my enemies! Somebody round up the lamenting women, and get 'em to wailing!
  12. For awhile, but I can see a 'Darquan March Campaign Terrain Pack I' as a product down the line.
  13. Can you elaborate? Placing terrain is kinda standard for historical ancients* and the rank & file fantasy games that followed. Some place more, some less, some shift around the pieces after placement, some specify positions or table quarters, but they all have players laying down terrain. *outside of specific battle reenactments, of course.
  14. Just as an FYI, you should be very sceptical of this claim. 'The distributor is out/never received it' is the LGS equivalent of 'my dog ate my homework'.
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