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About VanorDM

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    Rules Ninja
  • Birthday 09/09/1969

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    Osceola, Wisconsin, United States
  1. I'd only buy into IA if you were interested in the campaign game it offers. Legion will be IMO vastly superior in every way to the skirmish system in IA. So it really depends on what you want... Want to play though the IA campaign, then yes it's worth getting. Because even if FFG stops making it, you can still play though the released campaigns. But if you're looking for a TT war game, I would pass on it.
  2. Myself I hate citadel paints... not because of the paint, but rather because of the pot. I've seen that they actually redesigned the pots so they were harder to seal so the paint dried out faster meaning you had to buy them more often. That may or may not be true, but the pictures seemed to support it, and it does seem like something GW would do. I also don't like them because it's harder to get a decent load of paint out of the pot and onto a wet palette compared to paint that comes in a squeeze bottle, like Reaper, Army Painter or Vallejo. In fact I think GW/Citadel is the only one that uses a pot instead of a squeeze bottle. Squeeze bottles will keep longer because they seal better, and are much easier IMO anyway to get onto a wet palette.
  3. Expect that Legion will have 30+ models per side, not 6-10, it will also be played on a 6x3 table.
  4. Atom in the Tabletop Minions videos did one about it and he also found it to be as good if not better than anything else out there. One nice thing about the camo colors is they're not only flat, they're slightly textured. If you run your finger over one you feel a slight roughness which helps the paint to stick to it even better. I like the black, but I also use the tan or green depending on how dark I want the model. Also for painting WW2 stuff like Bolt Action it can be a bit of a time saver. Just to show the difference... Krylon is $5 at Walmart, whereas Citadel's Chaos Black is $17, and I've heard people say it's not even a very good primer. Army Painter is better at $10 per can, but you're still paying twice as much for the same quality.
  5. I still use some of them, mostly in the form of a base to mix other colors with. They aren't as good as better paints, but it's hard to beat the price. Plus for things like say black or white, lower pigment concentration may not be that big of a deal when you're just trying to darken or lighten something.
  6. Myself I use Krylon camo paint, but yes it's every bit as good if not better than any specialty primer out there. I've tried both and if there's any difference in in the favor of Krylon, which is half it not less the price.
  7. But legion isn't a RPG. Imperial Assault is much closer to a RPG then Legion will be, and you can download the rules for IA right now from the FFG site. As to the OP's question, expect the rules a week or so before the game releases.
  8. Yes, that's exactly what I'm referring to. Yep, it's the biggest problem when basing a model. There's not even really many neutral options that look good. You could paint the base black, and that would work ok on any surface, but it would add nothing at all to the miniature, and may actually detract from it. So you're stuck doing things like basing a model with forest turf, and then having it look odd on a snow field or interior map. But no matter what you do that's going to be an issue. So base it with environment that you'll play on the most and don't worry about it when it's on something else. Myself I base most everything with forest turf, because that's what my table at home looks like, and what the tables at the LGS look like. So it works in 90% of the games I play. But for the Shadowrun RPG characters I painted I gave them concrete and asphalt bases because that fit better with where they'd be most of the time. It will be a bigger issue when you have Snowtroopers/Hoth Rebel troopers... Makes almost no sense to base them for forest green, but that's where I'd bet they'll get used the most, of course it makes no sense to use them at all on a forest or most interior maps since they're really just standard stormtroopers/rebel troopers with cold weather gear. Unless someone wants to make up a list of nothing but those types of troops and additional leaders. Which would naturally be rather spendy.
  9. I forgot to add a personal testimonial to the above post. For a while I painted with straight out of the pot, and I had some fairly nice looking stuff. Stuff I was fairly proud of to put on the table. Then I saw video I linked above and tried using a wet palette. I'd always show my finished stuff off to friends and my wife, and they'd tell me how nice it looked. After I showed my friend something I did with the wet palette, he made the comment "You know your other stuff was decent, but this one is actually really, really good." So I went from a "Yeah that's nice" or "I like that." to "Wow that's really, really good" or "You've actually become a really good painter" simply by starting to use a wet palette.
  10. Don't blame you at all.
  11. One other thing I'll mention, because it's quite possibly the single most important thing you can do. Thin your paints. That may mean squirting a little water into the cup or using a wet palette... But however you do it, make sure you do it, because nothing else will improve the look of your miniatures more. Using 2 thin coats lets you add the color you want to the model without covering any of the detailing or depth of the model itself. Here's another tabletop minions on how to make one for about 5 bucks... I made one based on the video and it cost me maybe that much, the biggest expense was the parchment paper, at like $3, but I have enough of that to last me until I can no longer paint. Although I do have my eyes on a kickstarter for a wet palette that looks rather nice.
  12. Price wise? Yes the cores and expansions are the same prices.
  13. Assuming it doesn't change... Jump 1 is Range 1 which is 6 inches.
  14. True, but most people aren't looking at that era, at least they don't seem to be. They want Hoth or Scarif, they want Vader leading troops. They want the OT stuff, but also want mass battles, which don't actually fit the OT era at all. Which isn't to say that it couldn't work, but it you were going to really make large scale battles part of the game you to a point have to place it after RotJ and that should include excluding the characters that wouldn't be around after that point.
  15. Another thing that helps with that is it's much harder to spot mistakes on an individual model when it's mixed in with 6 or more of the basically same model. In Bolt Action for example, any one of my 82nd US Airborne may not be that great of a paint job, but when you're looking at a blob of 10-12 of them it's really hard to pick out any mistakes, and when you're looking at a table of 50+ of them picking out much detail is really hard to do. Of course since the whole point of a military uniform is to blend in and the table is a railroad grass mat with trees on it... That helps too. One other tip that just occurred to me is how important good basing is. Going again with my BA stuff since that's what I'm still currently painting, quite often the model will look ok, not great but not bad... Which IMO is fine when I'm painting 50+ models with tabletop quality. But when I do a nice base on it, the model can really jump up the scale in terms of quality. You can't make a silk purse out of a pig's ear, but a nice base can really go a long way to making a mini pop, and likewise a bad base can detract from a well painted model.