Kaaihn

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  1. That's what his face is supposed to look like. All my figures are just color matched against their official artwork. He is wearing a half mask, its sculpted into the figure.
  2. LFG

  3. But Descent has hellhounds and giants also?
  4. Visions of Dawn. I love the Ogre and Troll sculpts in this one!
  5. One rule book to rule them all

    v1.8 is posted. I fixed a few typo's, and added a Denying Destiny variant rule option to the variant rules page.
  6. Thanks! It's only daunting because of the number of miniatures really. As far as process goes, I'm keeping it really basic. Base colors, wash, super minor amount of highlighting and call it a day. Metals I put one extra color highlight on so it reflects correctly, but that takes no time at all. Heroes take me 4-5 hours each, and monsters typically take 4-5 hours also, but for the whole group. Exceptions are models I go overboard on, or have to experiment to get the look correct on. That's mainly been the dragons because of their mostly solid colors. The less color variety in the palette, the more work it is to create the appearance of detail.
  7. I edited the Delve page of the RTL rulebook so it's nice and clean. I'll send it through Discord, this site is being a pain in the *** about attachments right now. The full text of what people need to know for planning: 1 xp per hero to start before the first stage Each hero recovers 3 health and 2 heroes may discard 1 condition each at the end of each stage After each stage shop cards are randomly drawn. How many depends on how fast the stage is cleared. 10 is typically the max, decreasing as turns go by. Keep 2 cards, plus a third if the monster tracker is clear at end of the stage. Max 1 weapon can be kept from the shop deck per stage. End of stage 1 · 1 xp per hero End of stage 2 · 1 xp per hero End of stage 3 · 2 xp per hero · All used heroic abilities reset · Change from Act I shop and monster cards to Act II · Used Search cards put back in Search deck and shuffled · Gain 1 Morale End of stage 4 · 1 xp per hero End of stage 5 · 1 xp per hero
  8. Sadgit, what do you think about including the round to round framework of a Delve in the guide? I wrote up what happens at the end of each round and keep a printout of it for my players so we don't forget. It's mainly to know when and how much xp will be assigned, etc. Think it makes sense to include a blurb on that?
  9. I'll post photos of all of them like I usually do once I finish this H&M pack. Almost done with the Manticores
  10. Anytime, feel free to ask questions. I took a couple snaps at each stage of this Ogre I just did. Not the most exciting model or color scheme, but since it has a lot of both metal, skin, leather, and fabric on a large model, I figured it was a good one for this. You can see the overall process is really simple that I use. Just base coat cleanly, wash heavily, and a little bit of highlighting. Your highlighting job is mostly done already if you go heavy with the wash. As you can see, there isn't a giant difference between the washed stage and the highlighted stage. The highlighting is to make metals look more realistic, and make colors overall pop a bit when seen in person. That isn't necessary, it's just the style I like for fantasy models. I finished two of these, from base coating to complete, in about 4 hours worth of work. Bear in mind that the camera picks up and enhances color somewhat, more than what you would see in person, and there is a big *** light shining right on this model just out of frame. So the washed stage photo you see here is showing more vividness and light reflection than you would see in person. That's why I highlight, to create the light reflections and vividness in person from any distance, without needing to hold the model right under a light bulb to get the effect and impact.
  11. Thanks! I use Vallejo paints and a citadel, vallejo, and army painter washes. Army painter has a bigger range of skin washes, most colored washes I use are citadel, and a couple washes that citadel doesnt make like grey and solid black wash are the vallejo ones. The jpaint colors are straight matches of the bottled paints against the images on the package. I don't mix colors. I take a picture of each image and print it and have my wife label each area with the colors that match the Vallejo pallet since I'm colorblind. I don't keep the labeled images once I've finished, so I can't say definitively what each color used was, but I remember some of it. For Karnon (yeti looking guy), the body fur is offwhite with an army painter soft tone wash, then highlighted back up with offwhite. His hair is bonewhite, same wash, highlighted back up with bonewhite. Steelhorn, the skin is khaki, washed with nuln oil and highlighted back up with khaki. his shoulder armor is gunmetal, washed with nuln oil, highlighted with gunmetal and some object lighting highlights with chainmail silver. The loincloth is scarlet blood. The gold areas of the armor is the darker gold color (forget the name offhand), washed, highlighted, object light highlighted with polished gold. One fist, his armor is gunmetal, nuln oil washed, gunmetal highlighted, then overbrushed with mutation green. The cape and loincloth and strapping and weapon wrap is leatherbrown, nuln oil wash, leatherbrown highlight. The furs of the lady are deadwhite, washed with vallejo gray wash, highlighted back up with deadwhite. When painting white or yellow, paint first with white primer before washing, or it's likely not going to come out right. If there is something else on the heroes you would like the specific color of I can try to remember (and ask my wife). As far as a tutorial, the technique I'm using for almost all my Descent stuff is the same. I apply the base colors, wash, highlight back up with that same basecolor. If it's metal, I add a little object source lighting highlighting using the next brighter metal color. So, for "cheap" looking metal, start with gunmetal, then end with chainmail. For "quality" metal, start with chainmail, end with silver. Look at Steelhorns steel armor vs his horns and you can see the difference. Same for brasses and golds, except there are only two of each of those, so base with the darker, wash, highlight with same color as base, object source highlighting with lighter color. Generally, standard leather I use leatherbrown. Standard wood is beasty brown. Bones, teeth, and nails/claws are bonewhite. I generally drybrush skin after washing to give it a more natural skin look, but just carefully paint the highlights back on with the base color for everything else so the model pops a little more. It's a very fast technique overall and gives a great look. I'm not going for high art with Descent since there are just so many models and the excess detail gets a bit lost really anyway in a tabletop game like this. I save the indepth super detailed jobs for things like Warhammer 40K, those I paint more for the art than as simple game pieces. Each of these heroes on average I can knock out in 3-4 hours each. Quick tip, when you base color something and then wash it, liberally apply that wash. It will create a range of colors. Darkest in the recesses, a mid level darkening of the base color above that, and a light darkening of the base color at the highest areas. So just touching up the high areas with the base color again creates that highlight that makes the model pop. No extensive highlighting is needed at all. Saves a ton of time. The stingier you are with the wash, the fewer color shades you will have when the wash drys, which means more work to be done to get those shades put in manually. And don't be afraid at all to use different color washes on the same model! Generally I nuln oil everything except skin. Quick touchup of the skin base color where I splashed nuln oil on skin getting everywhere else, then carefully apply a flesh wash to the skin. It creates a much more realistic effect.
  12. Shards of Everdark! I really love many of the models in this one. The Ice Wyrms are awesome, One Fist, Steelhorn, and Karnon are really great figures as well. I like the Dark Minotaurs models, although sticking with FFG's color scheme on them I think they came out kind of boring. Maybe that's just me though.
  13. I use a heat gun that I bought at a hardware store. If you don't want to mess with the water method, grab a heat gun. You can always return it after trying it if it isn't something you think is worth keeping. I like it because it allows me to put a quick blast of heat on a focused area. As soon as I see the figure start to slump I turn it off and hold the figure in the position I want it to be in for about 10 seconds. After that it will stay on its own and finish cooling and be perfect after a few minutes.
  14. The bases on those figures are fantastic!