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About jscott991

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  1. I'm still going to give it a go. I'm worried it's going to look more like a stain than a wash, but I'm going to try. The ship would just look a lot better with panel lining.
  2. Awesome. Thanks! Just as an FYI, my thread over on Shapeways about this produced a reply where someone said it is IMpossible to use a wash on white nylon plastic models. https://www.shapeways.com/forum/t/applying-a-black-wash-to-the-white-versatile-plastic.100593/#post-237949
  3. So, I sprayed Testor's Glosscote on a dreadnought from Mel in WSF that I bought a long time ago and had only primed. Once the glosscote was dry, I put together a mixture of nuln oil that was about 40 or 50% wash to matt medium. I then painted it on the dreadnought. It looked ok when I stopped. But when it dried, basically a lot of the wash simply disappeared (I'm assuming it soaked into the plastic, despite a coat of primer and a coat of glosscote). This makes me very wary of trying a similar strategy on the much more expensive XSD. Did I not apply enough glosscote? Should I be using a different glossy vanish to keep the wash from soaking in?
  4. I really appreciate the help. I think my tentative plan for the Xyston will be to apply Testor's Glosscote (a spray on varnish) and then try to use a wash limited as much as possible to just the panel lines and the areas that need to be darkened. I'm not confident this will work, but I think it's closer to my skill level and might give me the ability to highlight a little better than trying to apply the wash to the whole model (and it's a huge ship compared to my past successes).
  5. When you apply a clear coat, do you use something like Testors Glosscote? Or do you paint it on using a glossy varnish like from Vallego? Does it have to be a glossy cote? Would something like Dullcote from Testors work? Thanks.
  6. I think I understand the broad concept. The 18" part confuses me. That seems quite far away to get even a little spray.
  7. Just so I'm clear, you put the ship 18" to the side of whatever you're spraying at, and the black paint gets on it enough to fill in the cracks?
  8. I definitely thin down the Nuln Oil. It ends up being only about 30-40% Nuln oil by the time I use it. If I use Vallejo's black wash, I use an even higher mix of matte medium.
  9. Drybrushing has always been beyond my skill level. I'd love to watch someone do highlighting sometime. I just don't see how you avoid the problem of having the original grey no longer match the grey of the bulk of the ship post-wash. The idea of using a lighter shade to start is intriguing I guess. I actually dug up an old painting thread I had where people suggested using a gloss cote before washing and adding a drop of dish soap to the Nuln Oil (even if you have matt medium in it). I think that's my best best.
  10. I desperately wanted a Xyston (Sith) Star Destroyer so I ordered one from Mel's on Shapeways, despite it only being available in the very mediocre white nylon plastic. The ship printed decently and after being primed and using a varnish, it isn't quite as grainy as most ships made from that material. However, I'd really like to highlight the panel lines on it, the way they look on the FFG Imperial Star Destroyer. In the past, I've used a black wash (Citadel Nuln Oil, heavily diluted), to very mixed effect. On smaller ships, like a 1/7000 Mel's Vindicator cruiser and a 1/7000 Nebulon B, the wash was great. And really helped the ship look finished. However, on a bigger ship (a Praetor battlecruiser from Shapeways), the wash was awful, and ruined the ship. It simply smudged up the long smooth areas of the hull. I am not sure how this Xyston will turn out. Does anyone have any tips? The biggest problem I've had with washes in the past, is that once they are applied, they change the base color of the ship (making it slightly darker). This means I can't really go back and paint over parts that turned out too black because the grey of the original paint no longer matches the slightly darker grey post-wash (I hope that makes sense). Edit: I should add that in the past I've tried washes and then removed them. But I realize that paint can't really be removed from the WSF Shapeways plastic. So this would be a one-shot deal, on a ship that cost quite a bit. Here is the ship:
  11. Mel's 1/7000 Nebulas, Arquitens, etc. really show how amazing the Armada models could have been.
  12. I've had this problem with FUD for years and been told "it's your paint." The truth is that FUD has a residue that, I think, can't be washed off easily. The solution for me has either been intense sunlight or stripping the paint and trying again.
  13. Thanks for the tip. Just a quick question, though. By mixing paint and water, aren't you just creating a wash? Isn't that what nuln oil (GW's black wash) already is -- thinned out paint?
  14. I've looked very closely at this kit on shapeways and I have to ask, are the turrets missing the barrels? They look like the broken versions of the turrets that appeared in portions of ESB and not the versions with the barrels that are in ANH and Rogue One. This is an example of both broken and unbroken ISD1 turrets.
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