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Col. Dash

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  1. Why would everyone play a different scenario? In other table top wargames its the norm for everyone to be playing the same scenario for each round. This whole thread is exactly why. No need to reinvent the wheel. Not sure what seeding reasons is. But its a blind vote and you can even have it to where the TO picks what he thinks is the worst painted. Yeah in a small group you might be able to pick out which player painted which but in Legion, there are only two factions and they really are going to start looking the same unlike say 40k where every army looks completely different and its easy to go "John is the dark elder player and Bob is the Ork player."
  2. Populace vote on the paint scheme. Each tied player picks the worst painted model in their force and places them next to each other and the other players get to blind vote which is painted best. Winner of the vote breaks the tie. Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes and encourages decent painting.
  3. Col. Dash

    How important is the use of a wet palette for a beginner?

    It isn't. Not even all veteran painters use them especially if you are pressed for time and don't sit for long hours painting and just do a little here and a little there when you have a minute or two. I usually will knock out the important main colors that involve very little detailing very quickly then will sit down for a few minutes and paint the casings on the guns on a couple models. Maybe later in the day when waiting for the wife, knock out the highlighting on the casing. Eventually I get squads finished.
  4. Col. Dash

    Painting Stormtrooper questions...

    I glue everything together first. For one, no one will be able to see any nook and cranny small enough you cant see with a brush. For white, I prime white. Nuln gloss wash. Drybrush white and highlight white. Then go back with the Nuln and black line where needed. Very quick and easy. GW, with their new Nuln gloss wash, has turned the hardest color to paint into something simple with just one bottle. Very impressed with them for once on their paints.
  5. Col. Dash

    Basing

    Personally I glue my models first and do all the major things I am going to do and then put down whatever I am using as the base carefully avoiding getting stuff on the model until I start dry brushing, then I intentionally miss and make the legs dirty. I use Stirling Mud then dry brush ushitabi bone for most armies then toss on a bit of lichen or grass. Then I do the edges of the base in a complementary color. Dark grey for my white star phantoms, dark red for my brass and red Spartan Minotaurs(who have a grey and snowy base). Basing is easy and simple and even a two tone base can turn a bland mini into a good mini on the tabletop.
  6. Col. Dash

    Prequels vs Sequels vs Scum

    While I disliked the prequels(not as badly as the horrid sequels), they have quite a bit more cool troop types and vehicles than the sequels have so far and I actually really want to paint some Destroyer Droids and variant clone troopers.
  7. Col. Dash

    Things I want to see (if I get into this game):

    I agree greatly with the multi-faction thing. For one it will get boring. For two a meta will appear and all the net listers will be using the exact same list. My other worry on only having two factions is they will put out new expansions these expansions will make the previous factions visibly less competitive. Most current wargames you can play your army for years and maybe add a unit here and there as something cool comes out or rules change, my marines in 40k have been fundamentally unchanged for years but I have added new units and such to keep it legal or they just looked cool to me. Board games like xwing though you have to keep buying in order to compete. Works nice for xwing, clicky games, and magic the gathering, not such a good plan for an attempt to break into the wargame scene. As for units and factions: Hutt empire, Hapes, Chiss, general mercenaries Units I am mainly interested in are Death troopers, shore troopers, An AT-DP as depicted in SW Commander(heavily armored, single powerful energy weapon, slow as ****) We are running out of Rebel units already but would like to see repurposed Clone War era gear, Droid Destroyers, Oppressors and Sentinels.
  8. Col. Dash

    Stop with "scum and villainy" faction

    I think a miniatures war game needs more than 2 factions or it will become stale. The small number of factions works for board games like Armada and Xwing which are designed to be a pick up and go system with relatively quick games, kind of like Magic but with miniatures. Legion is a war game where 50% of it is the hobby and having only Rebels and Imperials would be fairly boring quickly. Plus wargamers tend to like building armies, I know very few people with less than two armies. I have 6 just for 40k. I would like to see clone war era as well as mercs, but even in GCW era you have several additional factions that can be fleshed out and added; Hapes Cluster, the Corporate sector, Hutt Cartels, Black Sun.
  9. Col. Dash

    Generic Generals

    As someone who in most games that generally doesn't like HQ characters beyond what should be present, I am all in favor of generic Captains and LTs. Vader and General veers are not showing up to take a hands on approach at every little skirmish nor can they be everywhere. Generics allow us to run our own little section of the Star Wars universe without the movies. If I want Captain Vrill TK975, a Storm Trooper Officer, commanding the Alpha Company of 97th Sand Trooper Regiment who is not just a counts as model then I should be able to do so.
  10. Col. Dash

    Further expansions

    There is a very wide array of Imperial troopers to pick from. Unfortunately not near as many Rebels. The fluff problem is resources, the Empire has the entire very loyal Core, inner and outer colony regions plus a variety of other firmly pro-Imperial worlds to get volunteers from. Worlds that aren't beaten up and subjugated and are happy to be part of the Empire. Meanwhile the Rebels have mostly scattered Outer Rim planets and individuals they pick up here and there because its not as if they can just set up a recruiting station with posters saying "See the Galaxy, meet strange new cultures, and shoot them!" For this reason the Empire can have very highly trained specialist forces like the Aquatic, Ice, Shore, and Sand trooper legions and that's all they do for the most part. The Rebels on the other hand have very few specialist teams and even those aren't generally specialist-location trained. So you have limited manpower which means the same teams and battalions of guys get rotated around quite a bit. So we have Commandos like those on Endor, Saboteur troops like in Rogue One(who technically are still commandos but its a different uniform) Rebel troopers which can be dressed as Hoth Troopers or standard garb, and Rebel Navy troopers. Two of them are already done. So it will be interesting to see where they go with it. I think they are going to have to dig into the EU just to get Rebel counterparts for the mass of Imperial troops available.
  11. Col. Dash

    customizing your troops

    Usually most games have no problem with a head swap. Even 40k, the king of IP issues I have never seen them care about a head swap. Some of you guys are just making up problems that wont be a problem. This is 50% a hobby, FFG understands that and conversions are part of that. BTW, black storm troopers have been around long before Death Troopers appeared. I believe they were elite storm troopers called Shadow Troopers specifically guarding the Maw installation. A lot of 501st guys did them and as someone building a Death Trooper costume, there is massive difference from a normal TK suit and not just a simple head swap. Plates, undersuit and everything is different.
  12. Col. Dash

    *spoilers* Thrawns Stormies

    Was wondering what those were when I saw them. A shame how bad that series ended. The book ending was so much better.
  13. Col. Dash

    Thoughts on why people play unpainted

    Agreed with Mastershake. Plus nothing says you need to hit the ground running with a fully painted army to begin with. I am both a married adult with two jobs, full time and one weekend a month, and a perfectionist painter. My rule for me is try and get as much base color as possible on them. A new marine army I am playing this weekend has a total of 1 fully painted marine, the scheme test model. All of the sergeants and officers are mostly painted in order to differentiate them from the squad guys at a quick glance. Everyone one else is primered white(its a white space marine army) with a shade applied and about 3/4 are drybrushed. All the vehicles are primered. This is unacceptable to me but I am pushing for time before a deployment so I don't have the time to get more done amidst everything important that needs to be done for the real world. Next week the plan is simply to finish dry brushing, adding shade and drybrush to the vehicles figuring out a list for a small 1500 point game for a campaign and at least three coloring the models in that list. Dry brushing and shading even thirtyish models will take about ten minutes so no biggie, I can probably do it before the gym in the morning while trying to wake up. Again, I am a perfectionist, the rest of the army will slowly be painted past 3 color over time, one squad or so at a time adding details. No one expects a fully painted army at the get go for normal games. At a tourney, yes I would expect to not play against a grey legion assuming tournament players have a bit more pride in themselves to show up with an unpainted army. But normal pick up games and escalation leagues, as long as it looks like someone is trying to get there however slowly.
  14. Col. Dash

    Painting Stormtroopers

    I am painting white Space Marines for 40k currently and plan on using the same method for Legion troopers when I get around to it. Primer GW white, make sure completely covered using several light coats. I haven't tried with a cheap white rattle can. Airbrush would work as well. Wash with GLOSS Nuln Oil. Gloss is a far superior wash than regular Nuln Oil, it really does hit the cracks and crevices better than normal and I don't find it pooling as much. Dry Brush fairly heavy white. I use a Valajo white color of some sort. A very fine lined highlight in GW white which is a hair lighter than the VJ white, mostly on the upper and extreme edges, its almost invisible over the dry brush so you could skip it if you really wanted. Again using GLOSS Nuln Oil some fine shading in the areas that need it with a fine brush but nothing extreme. Only if needed. Do the eyes and needed details in black. And for Storm Troopers some sort of gloss coat. Probably just a krylon gloss or Satin varnish. Done. All total, each guy might take 5 minutes of actual work, not counting drying time. My marines have other details which drives the time up but not knowing what all the storm troopers consist of I cant comment on it. BASING Basing makes the model. Let me say that again, Basing makes the model. So much you can do from easy to elaborate. Easiest is PVC glue(elmers glue) on the top and dip it in a can of fine flock(of whatever color you want) and paint the edges of the base in a complementary but non-garish color. I tend to use colors which somewhat match the models. I am using adeptus battlegrey on my white marines(highlight color), I use mahagony on my IG(same color as their boots), dark red on my Minotaurs(space marine Spartans in bronze armor), etc. But basing is stupidly important if you want good looking models. You can have basic 3 color models with a decent(not even good) base and they will look better at tabletop distance from a level 5 paint scheme and no basework. I have done it and had people pick up the models and comment they thought the scheme was more elaborate than it was because the basing creates an optical illusion. I see people comment on here about basing not matching the terrain. Its almost not important. Whats important is they match each other. I have my Minotaurs on snow and rock basing and I don't ever notice even when placed on desert or urban boards. They fight side by side with my guard who are on generic brown rock/dusty bases. Both use the same color bushes which tie them together.
  15. Col. Dash

    Differentiating Troops --What's your plan?

    Rebels would be easy to differentiate even on the model. A slight color flash somewhere on the back, maybe a small stripe on the back of the hat kind of like cat eyes the army uses. Stormies are a bit more difficult since they do all look the same. Thinking just a vertical color stripe on the back of the base.
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