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NickelPlate

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Posts posted by NickelPlate


  1. Like others have mentioned having your tiles and minis well organized is a must the more content you own. We use a cheap hanging file folder box for the tiles and some cheap Harbor freight boxes to organize all of the minis like below with everything clearly labeled. It takes a little time to organize but it's worth it we have all of the expansions including the monster and lieutenant packs and our setup time isn't bad at all.

     

    https://www.harborfreight.com/20-bin-medium-portable-parts-storage-case-93928.html

     

    https://www.staples.com/tru-red-portable-file-tote-letter-size-black-tr57622/product_24413998?cid=PS:GooglePLAs:24413998&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=24413998&KPID=24413998&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxui7lMSW6wIVEvDACh1qfgMPEAQYASABEgI_QfD_BwE


  2. On 4/23/2020 at 11:41 AM, Kaaihn said:

    Lots of possibilities if you can mod the RtL app. Would it be possible to create new content and add it to the app this way? Instead of people having create a campaign in Valkyrie, could you adapt one of the standard campaigns to RtL play and load it into the app this way?

    Separate from the work to convert the storylines and concepts and get it all plotted and written for how it should flow, do you have a feel for how much work it would take to code the content into a mod? Is it worth pursuing vs writing quests/campaigns in Valkyrie?

    To me that would be the cat's pajamas if the community had the ability to make their own RTL campaigns/quests. Now FFG under normal circumstances would probably not want this competing with their paid content but now that we have a new Descent version coming I have a feeling we've seen the end of RtL content from FFG. Assuming they're going to want everyone to migrate to the "new" game, they could at least release an editor for those of us who are heavily invested in D2E. My wife and I own all of the D2E  ($$$) content are aren't keen on shelving it just because a new version is in the works, even though we will still probably buy the new version at some point.


  3. I know this is old but seeing as you haven't gotten any answers I thought I'd reply. I don't know about the PC version but we play on the Ipad version and it specifically states that your progress is saved at the start of each new round, and the end of a quest or when you leave the city so those are the save points you have to work with.


  4. Thanks for posting and thanks to you and others who have labored and shared their work. My wife and I went all in with D2E about a year ago and still love playing it. We're on our third campaign in RTL and have one to go after that. The plan is to then make the move to fan made content such as Valkyrie and Automated overlord variants for the existing quests. We'll probably eventually end up getting the new Descent whatever it is, but have no plans to retiring D2E. I still think there is a market for more RTL campaigns (I know I'd buy them) but probably not too likely now given that FFG will want everyone to migrate to the new game.


  5. Hi KP,

    Nothing magical but I'm happy to share everything I've learned so far scouring the web. I use mostly Army Painter (AP) products. They have really good stuff. Base coats are done using the acrylics. Shading is via the dip method (Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut or similiar) there are several videos for this on youtube. I also use their brushes; Drybrush, basecoat brush, wargamer detail and insane detail brush.

    A good magnifying visor IMHO is the secret to good results and the single most important thing you can buy (next to the paints of course):

     www.amazon.com/Donegan-OptiVisor-Headband-Magnifier-Magnification/dp/B0015IN8J6/ref=sr_1_1

    There is just no way I could paint these things without the visor. It really helps to mount the minis to some kind of handle while painting so you don't have to touch them and can rotate them easily. I got a cheap $1 plunger at a dollar store and cut the handle into four pieces. Before starting, either buy or make your own wet pallet (gives you a place to mix colors and keeps the paints from drying out while you're working). You can buy or just make your own if you're cheap like me. There is lots of info on the web and on youtube on how to make a wet pallet.

     

     

    Step 1 - Trim excess plastic flash material

    Step 2 - Clean using toothbrush and dishsoap (allow to dry)

    Step 3 - Primer (I use the AP black color primer)

    Step 4 - Mount minis to wooden handles

    Step 5 - Apply basecoats and detail (allow to dry)

    Step 6 - Dip them in the Minwax polyshade (check out videos on how to do this and allow 24 to 48 hours to dry)

    Step 7 - Give them a very light coat of dullcoat or anti-shine matte varnish (again AP makes a good product here)

    Step 8 - Apply base material to suit your tastes. I use Elmer's clear glue and some cheap Testor's brushes to secure the basing materials.

     

    That's pretty much it. The dip method has the added benefit of forming a very hard protective layer for your minis and shading all of the nooks and crannies that really bring out the detail. Here's a link showing every thing I use. You can see I'm getting ready to paint the Thief and Monk next :).

    i54.tinypic.com/1zwgtgk.jpg

     

    Cheers,

    NP

     

     

     


  6. Wow guys thanks for the kind words!! As I finish more of them I'll post more pics.

    BTW I'm really pleased with the quality of the minis from The Sacred Pool and can't wait to paint them. It's good to see FFG beefed up the minis since the Highland figures were a bit of disappointment.

     

    Cheers,

     

    NP


  7. Hi Folks,

    I finally got around to painting my minis and wanted to share. I haven't painted any minis since the 80s. I'm a little slow and am currently doing about 4 per week. Thanks to the other painting threads on this forum for guidance and inspiration. I'm no Steve Dean but I'm pretty pleased with the results. Playing with painted minis makes the game so much more fun.

     

    Regards,

     

    Dave

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  8. Sleeving the cards for the entire game with expansions was tedious but I was able to do it in an evening.

    As for solo play, I actually enjoy sometimes just playing solo with one character and seeing how the cards unfold and trying to get as powerful as I can before getting to the crown of the command. I've tried soloing with as many as four characters but it gets cumbersome trying to keep track of them all and who has what spells but it can be done.


  9. Hi Yyami,

    I had all of my 2nd edition cards laminated before playing them. It has happily held up over the years and all the cards are still in pristine laminated condition. I wish I could say the same for my box. It's still in pretty good shape but as kids we played the hell of this game back in the 80s every chance we got.

    I stop buying expansions after the first two. So I don't have Dungeon, City, Timescape or Dragons. At the time I remember thinking that all of those add on boards were silly (epecially Timescape). I wish I had bought them now sad.gif.

     

    Regards,

     

    NP

     

     

     

     


  10. Greetings fellow Talisman fans,

    I've been a long time Talisman fan since 2nd edition (I still have my copy) and just recently picked up all of the revised 4th stuff. I'm a big fan of simple, low cost, original box storage solutions that organize the game components for easy setup and play. I almost managed to fit everything into one box and am pretty pleased with the results and wanted to share. The box top doesn't quite seat all the way to the bottom but it isn't bad as the picture shows.

     

    Materials required:

    • Cardboard
    • Sharp utility knife
    • Straight edge or triangle
    • Glue (I used Elmer's)
    • Tape measure or ruler

     

    Sorry I just can't seem to make the insert image function work no matter what I try (links below).

    As you can see, there is plenty of room left over after I made my cardboard dividers for more expansion cards, I would estimate two more expansions. All cards are sleeved with the Mini Chimera sleeves from Mayday Games.The cardboard dividers are 1-3/4" tall which is just enough room to protect the cards and provide a support structure for the game boards. I also made mini dividers to separate the dungeon, highland, purchase cards etc. You can even just use this as the draw box for all cards.

    As an alternative, there is enough vertical space to stand the cards upright which also makes for more room for future expansion cards and other fiddly bits, but then the boards will have to fit in a separate box, and I'm not really crazy about carrying around 2 of the big boxes. I fit all of the minis in The Reaper box. I think there would be room to cram the minis in the left over space, but then no more room Sacred Pool and other expansions.

    img693.imageshack.us/img693/6198/img0121wm.jpg

    img828.imageshack.us/img828/3899/img0122r.jpg

    img829.imageshack.us/img829/4224/img0123g.jpg

    img839.imageshack.us/img839/5398/img0124tb.jpg

     

    Regards and Long Live Talisman.

     

     

     

     

     

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