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  1. Tatianna and Arvel are the same scale for sure. Kel seems to be that scale as well. It's almost a 32mm scale. Looking at the models and it seems we've had a scale creep that's gotten out of hand. 1st Edition - Board Game pieces, sub 28mm 2nd Edition - 28mm "realistic" scale Mists of Bilehall and their Lieutenants - 28mm Heroic Last two H&M Packs - 32mm The big part of the change seems to be a switch to digital sculptors and 3D printing, both of which necessitate a larger sized model (otherwise you get a loss of detail). Whole game should have been 32mm from the start to be honest, but switching up scales as time passes is very disappointing.
  2. Some WIPS Heroes Challara Titiana Not happy with those two, will probably get another copy of each and try again. Fire Imps I'm sure someone will ask, so here's a tutorial for painting fire that I recommend.
  3. I wish they had used this scale from the start.
  4. Some of them yes I also have a furniture set from Dungeon Saga (just the pack) and a bunch of chests I found on Ebay and painted up. Super Dungeon Explore literally has the best treasure chests out of any game released so far.
  5. I completed Titania and Challara. Right now I'm working on the models from Lair of the Wyrm so I can have a transportable, fully painted, version of Dark Elements to bring to places for when we want a one evening coop dungeon bash. Pictures to come when the Imps are done.
  6. It's a bit mind boggling, Ronan was among the top heroes in 1st Edition. I don't understand why Pico was turned from a combat orientated familiar into a version of Mata/Kata.
  7. Glazing is a huge step toward improving blends, deepening/brightening colours and for me it's completely replaced washes. It's something worth learning and to be honest, while it is time consuming, the results are very good for the effort put in.
  8. Can you be a bit more specific on which models/areas? Because I have and use over 150 different paints. Me 2 and thats the problem But I think Ispher is a great paintjob, a list of the colors you hab used will be verry helpful. Just base/shade/highlight Thank you I don't shade or highlight in a traditional sense, I blend and glaze. The base colour initially was XV-88, but the glazes and blends were a whole range of browns, ocher, tan, yellow, bone and flesh. The list of colours used in his skin are: XV-88 Balthor Brown Tau Light Ochre Cadian Fleshtone Averland Sunset Rhinox Hide Flayed One Flesh Ushabti Bone Screaming Skull Baneblade Brown Zamesi Desert And mixes of the above paints to make various glazes. The darker colours are the ones used initially and then the middle tones take over and are applied over the darker tones, then the extreme blended colours are added and then the middle tones are again applied to bring everything together. Cadian Fleshtone was used as a glaze to balance and warm the skin and Zamesi Desert ended up being the overall glaze colour used as it popped the most. I hope that helps in some way, but his skin was a really long process that took forever to get right.
  9. I'm very fortunate, none of my models have molding defects on the faces. However in the past I've actually just straight up asked FFG for a replacement as it's not acceptable to receive miniatures with defects and FFG need to know about any issues with their production in order to keep the standards up. If it's things like mold lines however, I just clean them away with a knife, a file and a lot of patience. I also use a combination of green stuff and liquid green stuff to fill in gaps and minor defects. It helps that I know how to sculpt minis, even if I don't do it very often. Repetition, quantity and most of all the pose because it's so two dimensional. I am indeed leaving the Kobolds to the side for the moment, however I plan to paint them in batches of 1 master plus 2 or 3 normal ones rather than do the whole lot at once. That's how I got through the Reanimates in the end, they are three batches of two and slight variations on the models in each pair. I'm actually not looking forward to painting the Flesh Molders and Changlings, something about their sculpts seems off.
  10. Can you be a bit more specific on which models/areas? Because I have and use over 150 different paints.
  11. I'm fine with the winner getting more rewards, but I'm of the strong opinion that the loser should choose the next scenario.
  12. You sent me a message and I figured it was better to reply here in the thread so it's available for other people to read. Some basic tips that work in general: 1. It's all a lie. This is one of those things which took me a while to internalise, but in essence all of art is about telling lies to people. By this I mean you're creating a false reflection of reality. You're making bright areas where in truth there aren't any, but if the miniature was bigger it would have them. Grabbing a hold of this concept changed the way I paint, it no longer was just about following the process, painting because about creating the illusion. Enhancing features, creating depth. I'm not sure how much sense this makes, but it's a key part of painting theory for me. I guess it gives me a goal to work toward with each piece, I'm not simply taking steps I' 2. Thin paints. I flip around between normal consistency and thin paints in every single piece. My block colours will be done with normal, unthinned paints (really they should be thinned a bit, but I'm lazy). However I work with thin paints for the rest of the time. Work colours up in layers, don't just put on a thick single coat, build it up gradually. 3. Matt/Satin Varnish - Gloss coats are fine as a base varnish coat as they are hard wearing and protective, but the shine will obscure detail, so you always want to put a matt or satin finish on the model afterwords. I prefer Testor's Dullcoate as I've found some other brands have actually caused issues. If you are using a spray varnish make sure you use it in a dry, cool environment and you shake the can for the full minute before hand. Otherwise you may experience frosting. (Same rule with any spray tbh) 4. Glazes. Glazes are your friend, I don't mean the ones you can buy pre-made - mix your own, either with a glaze medium or water. I use water. Here's a good piece on what glazing does and why it works: Link Here's another: Link Here's an example from Mike McVey showing the impact a well applied glaze can have. 5. Time. It all takes time, I've been painting since 2008 and before that I worked with oils for years with my grandfather. But it's not just time (as in years spent) it's time spent on the model -> I couldn't tell you how long it will take me to paint a miniature, I'll paint and adjust and repaint and tweak until it looks and feels right. Good luck.
  13. Personnaly i find it so easy comparing to a game against a true overlord that it is close to be boring . Fortunately there is that Peril effect that gives a little spice to the whole thing. Clearly i wouldn t want it easier.I can't help but wonder, when you talk about the RTL-quests being very easy/very hard - do you make good or bad choices for the monsters when they have several options concerning where to move, and whom they should attack when they have several viable targets - or do you randomise? My group gets trashed by the app, but we insist on randomising where the monsters spawn, where they move and which heroes they target when there is a choice. Having the power to mind control the monsters ruin the immersion, in my opinion. But the "take X damage out of he blue"-peril destroys us, so we feel we have to make the monsters dumb when possible besides rushing through the dungeon to stand a chance Just out of interest: do you own many Lieutenant packs? My group almost never gets perils with damage, most of the time we get Belthir/Skarn/one of the Farrows and so on. I own almost all Lieutenant packs, so my guess is maybe that's the reason so many people seem to get it so often and my group almost never sees them? Or is it just "Luck"? To be honest, as long as you own the relevant token + stat card from the set they're used in (i.e. Ruins for Ariad) you can actually get away with adding lieutenant in and using the card that comes with the campaign. It's not an exact match, but it certainly dials the peril down a bit and stops the X damage spam a little.
  14. Ispher will be as per box art, I find the colours pleasing and it makes my life easier to have the colour schemes chosen for me. I've painted enough 'personal choice' minis with Super Dungeon Explore. Ardus Ix'Erebus Reanimates These guys almost made me give up painting. The complete set: Nanok in a day or two, then Ispher and then on to Shadows.
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