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viper5121

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  1. Co-op play is SO important these days for dungeon crawlers. It is almost the norm now. Co-op also allows proper SOLO play. Descent got with the times with it's Road to Legend app. Doom better do the same otherwise it's a no-go for me and probably A LOT of other board gamers. Who else here agrees that a Co-op app is very important for this game?
  2. How about these 54mm miniatures by Irregular Miniatures? I really like 54mm scale and some of these miniatures look like they would work well with WFRP. Go here, then click on the 54mm link on bottom, then on left side click on the Medievals, Renaissance & English War, and Fantasy collections. I really like the look of these miniatures. Opinions?
  3. Thanks everyone for the replies so far. I appreciate it. Currently, I have miniatures from the Descent base game and Altar of Despair expansion. I plan to use the Descent monster minis as well for WFRP. I am not sure if I will use the Descent hero minis for WFRP because they seem to be a bit too small. Here is a preliminary list of miniatures I plan buy for WFRP. Please tell me if it looks appropriate: 1. Dwarf - Armor – Hammer – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 2. Dwarf – Cloth – Sword – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 3. Dwarf – Armor – Axe – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 4. Dwarf – Cloth – Polearm/Spear – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 5. Human – Cloth – Hammer – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 6. Human – Armor – Sword – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 7. Human – Cloth – Axe – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 8. Human – Armor – Mace – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 9. Human – Cloth – Staff – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 10. Town Guard – Cloth/Armor – for NPC 11. Town Guard – Cloth/Armor – for NPC 12. Town Guard – Cloth/Armor – for NPC 13. Town Guard – Cloth/Armor – for NPC 14. Elf - Armor – Archer – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 15. Elf - Cloth – Archer – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 16. Elf - Armor – Sword – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 17. Elf - Cloth – Sword – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 18. Wizard Apprentice – for Basic Career – for PC or NPC 19. Wizard (full fledged) – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 20. Wizard (full fledged) – for Advanced Career – for PC or NPC 21. Black Orc – for NPC 22. Black Orc – for NPC 23. Black Orc – for NPC 24. Black Orc – for NPC 25. Goblin – for NPC 26. Goblin – for NPC 27. Goblin – for NPC 28. Goblin – for NPC 29. Beastman – for NPC 30. Beastman – for NPC 31. Beastman – for NPC 32. Beastman – for NPC 33. Townsperson – for NPC 34. Townsperson – for NPC 35. Townsperson – for NPC 36. Townsperson – for NPC 37. Vampire – for NPC 38. Vampire – for NPC 39. Werewolf – for NPC 40. Werewolf – for NPC
  4. Ralzar said: You know that you don't need minis to play WFRP right? Not that there's anything wrong with having nicely painted minis to represent the action, but the game isn't really designed for getting much out of minis and it seems like a huge hassle to get minis to represent all the different stuff you'd need for this game, unless you decide that the characters will only encounter a couple of very specific type of creatures. WFRP 2nd Edition does have rules for miniatures and even suggests using them. And of course, these same miniatures can be used for WFRP 3rd Edition. Kharrak said: Well, I'm assuming he wants minis for the PC's, and possibly nemesis NPCs, which would add a very nice layer to the experience. Of course, I'm then assuming he just wants minis for players who've already chosen their careers. Getting minis for every career and/or npc... is quite a daunting thought... Anyway, I've rounded up the Warhammer Fantasy Battle minis that link the the playable careers: Dwarfs Generic combatants: javascript:void(0);/*1287742734063*/ Ironbreakers: javascript:void(0);/*1287742243854*/ Slayers: javascript:void(0);/*1287742264302*/ High Elves Sword Master: javascript:void(0);/*1287742312183*/ Wood Elves Generic ranged combatants: javascript:void(0);/*1287742769288*/ Wardancer: javascript:void(0);/*1287742356679*/ Waywatcher: javascript:void(0);/*1287742377982*/ Empire Generic combatants: javascript:void(0);/*1287742691874*/ Merchant and Scribe: javascript:void(0);/*1287742454658*/ Zealots/Flagellants: javascript:void(0);/*1287742493490*/ Wizards: javascript:void(0);/*1287742526741*/ Warrior Priest (one of several types): javascript:void(0);/*1287742567183*/ There are quite a few others, particularly in the Empire army, that can be tailored to fit the more humble human careers. Have a look around, and see if you can find anything. Thank you very much for the help. I really appreciate it.
  5. I know Reaper makes some really good minis. I am thinking about using Reaper minis for WFRP.
  6. I have a budget of $250 for WFRP minis. I would like minis that are standard scale (28mm or 25mm-Heroic) and have good quality sculpts. I would like the minis to be compatible with WFRP 2nd and 3rd edition. The minis should be a good assortment that would be good for various scenarios. They should be unpainted and either metal or plastic is fine. Please provide links to the minis if possible. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you very much.
  7. shnar said: I always remove flash before painting or priming a mini. Sometimes though some of them are hard to see until you do paint it. If it's only been primed, then whew, just cut the flash off and reprime that small section (either with the can or brush). Shouldn't be too hard to do. -shnar I was thinking the easiest and least expensive thing to do is trim the piece of flash off, spray some primer on a brush, and just touch up the area where I removed the flash. What do you think?
  8. I just spray primed a Troll and Blood Ape with Army Painter White Spray Primer Paint. I noticed that I forgot to remove a tiny piece of flash from the Troll's shoulder. I don't think the Blood Ape had any flash at all on it. My questions are: Will it look bad to paint it with the tiny piece of flash on it? If so, how should I remove it? Can I cut it off and buy some bottle white primer paint and reprime that tiny area? Or should I do the Pine Sol method and remove all the primer paint completely, cut the flash piece off, and re-prime it? What else can be done to fix this? Do you all on here bother removing the tiny pieces of excessive flash on your Descent figures before painting them? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Thanks for the answers so far. I have another question: When a hero or monster moves, do you they have to move their entire movement points or can they move less. For example, can a hero with 4 movement points, move only 3 spaces?
  10. dragon76 said: Web requires a roll at the start of each of the character's turns to determine if the web is still in effect or not. If a character remains webbed they may not spend any movement points that turn (One exception having to do with a Gold Treasure IIRC) Which dice do you roll to see if the hero is still in the web, and how do you determine this? Thanks.
  11. bmaynard said: In case you didn't realize, Critters with white dic in their attacks (like Bane Spiders) can attack from range. I didn't realize that one at first as I was just assuming they ran up and chomped on people. But yellow, green, blue, red, and black dice all have range on them too, so why can only monsters with white dice attack from range?
  12. When a hero or monster attacks, do all opposing characters within the combat range get affected, or only one of them? Also, taking the "Bane Spider" for example, the green and white dice are it's combat dice correct? Then for the Master Bane Spider, what does that gray dice (next to the white and green dice) represent? Is that a surge dice? What significance does the magic symbol on the card have? Do "Poison" and "Web" mean the hero gets poisoned and a web on them? How does that affect the hero's life and turns? Also, on the black surge dice, why is there a slash () between the number (range) and the hearts (damage)? What does it signify? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you very much.
  13. Hello, I just got Descent (base game) recently and my friends and I tried to play it last night for the first time but just couldn't figure it out. Granted we have never played a game like this before and usually play regular card games like poker, rummy, etc. I have played Dungeon Twister Prison before but that was much easier to understand. We found the Descent rulebook very confusing and not well explained. Can someone here please explain gameplay in a simple and easy-to-understand manner? For the "Into the Dark" quest, I have the following questions: What is the purpose of the doors? Who goes first at the beginning of the game? The overlord or the hero players? What exactly do the hero players do during their turn (in steps please)? What exactly does the overlord player do during his turn (in steps please)? What exactly do all those unusual dice mean? How exactly does combat work? What is line-of-sight, and does it really have to be used during gameplay? Doesn't the picture of the quest map actually show exactly what monsters are in what rooms? If so, then what is the use of the monster cards other than for stats? Does the overlord actually move the monsters at all? Or do they just remain stagnant? I just need to know how to play this game with easy-to-understand simplified instructions for beginning board gamers. Even modified simpler rules would be fine if anyone here has some. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
  14. Steve-O said: viper5121 said: VAL 72001 - Game Color Dead White VAL 72004 - Game Color Elf Skintone VAL 72006 - Game Color Sunblast Yellow VAL 72010 - Game Color Bloody Red VAL 72022 - Game Color Ultramarine Blue VAL 72030 - Game Color Goblin Green VAL 72034 - Game Color Bonewhite VAL 72036 - Game Color Bronze Fleshtone VAL 72043 - Game Color Beasty Brown VAL 72051 - Game Color Chaos Black VAL 72053 - Game Color Chainmail Silver VAL 72056 - Game Color Glorious Gold VAL 72057 - Game Color Bright Bronze VAL 72094 - Game Color Black Ink I don't know the exact shades by memory, but this does look like a good selection of paints. You've got the basic colours covered. If you want to save money you might consider cutting Bright Bronze. Unless you plan to use a lot of bronze or something. It's not a waste to get it, it's just one of the less frequently used colours in my experience. Depends on how tight your budget is. I'm assuming the inclusion of Black Ink means you're planning to ink wash your minis after painting them. Be aware that washing doesn't always produce results that are acceptable to everyone, and it might take a few tries to get it right. Obviously there's no way to know if you'll like it until you try it, but I personally prefer my minis bright. I get around the shadwo issue by painting black (Chaos Black, for you) in the recesses before I get to the colouring stage, that way the recesses are already dark and the higher colours remain bright. Of course, other people swear by washing and I suppose I can't really contradict them since I never took the time to perfect the technique before discarding it. Again, not telling you what to do, just giving you food for thought. If you have any extra or spare minis lying around, you might want to use one or two for experimentation before you get down to business on the real centerpieces. Vallejo is a good brand, one I recently switched to because I was getting fed up with how easily Citadel paint pots break or clog up with paint and then dry out. I swear GW is doing it on purpose to sell more paint, but that's just my paranoid old man rant for the day. =P Anyway, you're definitely off on the right foot, be sure to snap us some pics so we can see your work =D Thanks for the reply. I decided to go with Games Workshop paints instead. From everything I have read, it seems like they are very reliable and pretty much the standard by which all other miniature paints are measured. I'm not saying other paints aren't equally good, but I felt it was the safest going with Games Workshop. Also, they are the most readily available in case I have to pick up a particular color paint from a local gaming store. I went with these colors: Games Workshop Paint 61-51: Chaos Black Games Workshop Paint 61-54: Skull White Games Workshop Paint 61-10: Sunburst Yellow Games Workshop Paint 61-42: Goblin Green Games Workshop Paint 61-06: Blood Red Games Workshop Paint 61-13: Bestial Brown Games Workshop Paint 61-34: Enchanted Blue Games Workshop Paint 61-55: Mithril Silver Games Workshop Paint 61-60: Dwarf Bronze Games Workshop Paint 61-14: Snakebite Leather Games Workshop Paint 61-63: Shining Gold I also went with Army Painter Spray Primer Matte White because I want the colors to be bright before I dip the miniatures in Minwax.
  15. Hello, I have never painted miniatures before. I don't want to spend more than $75 on paints, brushes, and a cutter. Therefore, I am limiting my paints to 14 colors. I was wondering if these would be the best Vallejo paint colors to buy for the Descent base game + Road to Legends: VAL 72001 - Game Color Dead White VAL 72004 - Game Color Elf Skintone VAL 72006 - Game Color Sunblast Yellow VAL 72010 - Game Color Bloody Red VAL 72022 - Game Color Ultramarine Blue VAL 72030 - Game Color Goblin Green VAL 72034 - Game Color Bonewhite VAL 72036 - Game Color Bronze Fleshtone VAL 72043 - Game Color Beasty Brown VAL 72051 - Game Color Chaos Black VAL 72053 - Game Color Chainmail Silver VAL 72056 - Game Color Glorious Gold VAL 72057 - Game Color Bright Bronze VAL 72094 - Game Color Black Ink If other colors would be more appropriate, please list them. Alternately, you can list Citadel, Reaper, or other brand paints and their colors that would be most appropriate. Any responses will be appreciated. Thank you very much.
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