Hungry Wargs
I always love painting fur, it's so rewarding. Dark brown for the hide, lighter brown drybrush. And dark grey for the fur, lighter grey drybrush.
Eyes are always a problem for me but they came out okay. After matte protective varnish, a drop of gloss varnish in the eyes for extra glow.
Bases with small grey stones, one bigger one, and a tuft of grass.

Hi Andrew, thanks for doing this! Can we expect Marvel board games from FFG in the future? And are you happy with the balance between own IP and licensed products?
Thanks!
Jeroen (Netherlands)

Yes, got mine too! A pictorial review, with one important caveat: I have not (obviously) played the game yet with the insert. That is to say, how does it operate when setting up, tearing down, and so forth. I often organize and store games based on a rules reading and the component overview, then notice after a first (few) play(s) that stuff could be sorted differently.
With that out of the way (and wernerkellens above has a great overview of it already), here is how I did things!

The insert. 3 pieces of foam, the deeper one on the left, the miniature tray on the right, and a topper, which is a very nice (and to my mind necessary) touch.
First the deeper tray goes into the box (I might add here, superfluously perhaps, that the original cardboard insert is of no use).

The largest tile is a bit of a tight fit. I had to rotate a few times to find the best way to put it into the largest well, but I got it in. It's snug, but not so tight that I believe it will damage.

The other map tiles fit nicely, and there is actually about a third, volume wise, of the well left unused. This is good for the terrain tiles in the baggy, plus the hero sheets. Later I also add some tokens in the gap top right in the well (Inspiration and Threat). The Enemy Group / Elite tokens go in two wells at top left.

These are the beautiful, but just a bit too large for the insert, card boxes for mini cards. I used them for now, as you can see below, but especially the cards are a set of components that I may want to organize differently. As an example, Basic and Hero Skill cards are split in two once a campaign is started: Some are stored with the Hero sheets (at least that's how I would do it), and others are not used at all.

This is how the bottom "component" tray looks with everything. A few extra baggies for Hero sheets and cards once the campaign is underway. Tokens added to the map tiles well. Some tokens below the Enemy Group / Elite standees. You see the deckboxes are a bit too large, but the foam is of course flexible and can take it. I tried putting cards directly in the well, but didn't find that satisfactory either. I'll try this for the time being, and as noted above, see what works better once a campaign gets underway.

The mini's fit perfectly. One or two Goblin swords stick out very slightly, but the foam topper takes care of that. Because I got all the components in the bottom tray, I have some space left for the mini expansion mini's. At least I hope they fit, that would be great to have them in the box too. Note, I haven't painted all of the mini's yet, to my shame and chagrin. 11 to go...

Here are the trays side by side, so you can see the height difference. The miniatures tray is great, because most mini's can be stored standing.

Topper... on top.

Battle Boards and rule books. Extra protection for the mini's.

A perfect fit. One rulebook spine is rising slightly above the rim, but with the box lid on top this is no issue. I must say that this is one of the insert's strengths: in total it has perfect height (depth) for the game box. With the Battle Boards and rules on top, it closes perfectly and keeps everything in its place.

So much so, that I have no reservations about storing the game on its side!
And there it is, my pictorial overview / review of the Feldherr insert. All-in-all, I think it's functional, economic, mostly efficient (the odd shaped map tiles are difficult to design an insert for as it is), a perfect fit, safe storage for mini's, and I expect the insert to help in setup and teardown time as well. For what it's worth, I recommend it.

Yes, got mine too! A pictorial review, with one important caveat: I have not (obviously) played the game yet with the insert. That is to say, how does it operate when setting up, tearing down, and so forth. I often organize and store games based on a rules reading and the component overview, then notice after a first (few) play(s) that stuff could be sorted differently.
With that out of the way (and wernerkellens above has a great overview of it already), here is how I did things!

The insert. 3 pieces of foam, the deeper one on the left, the miniature tray on the right, and a topper, which is a very nice (and to my mind necessary) touch.
First the deeper tray goes into the box (I might add here, superfluously perhaps, that the original cardboard insert is of no use).

The largest tile is a bit of a tight fit. I had to rotate a few times to find the best way to put it into the largest well, but I got it in. It's snug, but not so tight that I believe it will damage.

The other map tiles fit nicely, and there is actually about a third, volume wise, of the well left unused. This is good for the terrain tiles in the baggy, plus the hero sheets. Later I also add some tokens in the gap top right in the well (Inspiration and Threat). The Enemy Group / Elite tokens go in two wells at top left.

These are the beautiful, but just a bit too large for the insert, card boxes for mini cards. I used them for now, as you can see below, but especially the cards are a set of components that I may want to organize differently. As an example, Basic and Hero Skill cards are split in two once a campaign is started: Some are stored with the Hero sheets (at least that's how I would do it), and others are not used at all.

This is how the bottom "component" tray looks with everything. A few extra baggies for Hero sheets and cards once the campaign is underway. Tokens added to the map tiles well. Some tokens below the Enemy Group / Elite standees. You see the deckboxes are a bit too large, but the foam is of course flexible and can take it. I tried putting cards directly in the well, but didn't find that satisfactory either. I'll try this for the time being, and as noted above, see what works better once a campaign gets underway.

The mini's fit perfectly. One or two Goblin swords stick out very slightly, but the foam topper takes care of that. Because I got all the components in the bottom tray, I have some space left for the mini expansion mini's. At least I hope they fit, that would be great to have them in the box too. Note, I haven't painted all of the mini's yet, to my shame and chagrin. 11 to go...

Here are the trays side by side, so you can see the height difference. The miniatures tray is great, because most mini's can be stored standing.

Topper... on top.

Battle Boards and rule books. Extra protection for the mini's.

A perfect fit. One rulebook spine is rising slightly above the rim, but with the box lid on top this is no issue. I must say that this is one of the insert's strengths: in total it has perfect height (depth) for the game box. With the Battle Boards and rules on top, it closes perfectly and keeps everything in its place.

So much so, that I have no reservations about storing the game on its side!
And there it is, my pictorial overview / review of the Feldherr insert. All-in-all, I think it's functional, economic, mostly efficient (the odd shaped map tiles are difficult to design an insert for as it is), a perfect fit, safe storage for mini's, and I expect the insert to help in setup and teardown time as well. For what it's worth, I recommend it.

Thanks for this great review !
You convinded me to buy mine quickly ^^

Yes, got mine too! A pictorial review, with one important caveat: I have not (obviously) played the game yet with the insert. That is to say, how does it operate when setting up, tearing down, and so forth. I often organize and store games based on a rules reading and the component overview, then notice after a first (few) play(s) that stuff could be sorted differently.
With that out of the way (and wernerkellens above has a great overview of it already), here is how I did things!

The insert. 3 pieces of foam, the deeper one on the left, the miniature tray on the right, and a topper, which is a very nice (and to my mind necessary) touch.
First the deeper tray goes into the box (I might add here, superfluously perhaps, that the original cardboard insert is of no use).

The largest tile is a bit of a tight fit. I had to rotate a few times to find the best way to put it into the largest well, but I got it in. It's snug, but not so tight that I believe it will damage.

The other map tiles fit nicely, and there is actually about a third, volume wise, of the well left unused. This is good for the terrain tiles in the baggy, plus the hero sheets. Later I also add some tokens in the gap top right in the well (Inspiration and Threat). The Enemy Group / Elite tokens go in two wells at top left.

These are the beautiful, but just a bit too large for the insert, card boxes for mini cards. I used them for now, as you can see below, but especially the cards are a set of components that I may want to organize differently. As an example, Basic and Hero Skill cards are split in two once a campaign is started: Some are stored with the Hero sheets (at least that's how I would do it), and others are not used at all.

This is how the bottom "component" tray looks with everything. A few extra baggies for Hero sheets and cards once the campaign is underway. Tokens added to the map tiles well. Some tokens below the Enemy Group / Elite standees. You see the deckboxes are a bit too large, but the foam is of course flexible and can take it. I tried putting cards directly in the well, but didn't find that satisfactory either. I'll try this for the time being, and as noted above, see what works better once a campaign gets underway.

The mini's fit perfectly. One or two Goblin swords stick out very slightly, but the foam topper takes care of that. Because I got all the components in the bottom tray, I have some space left for the mini expansion mini's. At least I hope they fit, that would be great to have them in the box too. Note, I haven't painted all of the mini's yet, to my shame and chagrin. 11 to go...

Here are the trays side by side, so you can see the height difference. The miniatures tray is great, because most mini's can be stored standing.

Topper... on top.

Battle Boards and rule books. Extra protection for the mini's.

A perfect fit. One rulebook spine is rising slightly above the rim, but with the box lid on top this is no issue. I must say that this is one of the insert's strengths: in total it has perfect height (depth) for the game box. With the Battle Boards and rules on top, it closes perfectly and keeps everything in its place.

So much so, that I have no reservations about storing the game on its side!
And there it is, my pictorial overview / review of the Feldherr insert. All-in-all, I think it's functional, economic, mostly efficient (the odd shaped map tiles are difficult to design an insert for as it is), a perfect fit, safe storage for mini's, and I expect the insert to help in setup and teardown time as well. For what it's worth, I recommend it.

Yes, got mine too! A pictorial review, with one important caveat: I have not (obviously) played the game yet with the insert. That is to say, how does it operate when setting up, tearing down, and so forth. I often organize and store games based on a rules reading and the component overview, then notice after a first (few) play(s) that stuff could be sorted differently.
With that out of the way (and wernerkellens above has a great overview of it already), here is how I did things!

The insert. 3 pieces of foam, the deeper one on the left, the miniature tray on the right, and a topper, which is a very nice (and to my mind necessary) touch.
First the deeper tray goes into the box (I might add here, superfluously perhaps, that the original cardboard insert is of no use).

The largest tile is a bit of a tight fit. I had to rotate a few times to find the best way to put it into the largest well, but I got it in. It's snug, but not so tight that I believe it will damage.

The other map tiles fit nicely, and there is actually about a third, volume wise, of the well left unused. This is good for the terrain tiles in the baggy, plus the hero sheets. Later I also add some tokens in the gap top right in the well (Inspiration and Threat). The Enemy Group / Elite tokens go in two wells at top left.

These are the beautiful, but just a bit too large for the insert, card boxes for mini cards. I used them for now, as you can see below, but especially the cards are a set of components that I may want to organize differently. As an example, Basic and Hero Skill cards are split in two once a campaign is started: Some are stored with the Hero sheets (at least that's how I would do it), and others are not used at all.

This is how the bottom "component" tray looks with everything. A few extra baggies for Hero sheets and cards once the campaign is underway. Tokens added to the map tiles well. Some tokens below the Enemy Group / Elite standees. You see the deckboxes are a bit too large, but the foam is of course flexible and can take it. I tried putting cards directly in the well, but didn't find that satisfactory either. I'll try this for the time being, and as noted above, see what works better once a campaign gets underway.

The mini's fit perfectly. One or two Goblin swords stick out very slightly, but the foam topper takes care of that. Because I got all the components in the bottom tray, I have some space left for the mini expansion mini's. At least I hope they fit, that would be great to have them in the box too. Note, I haven't painted all of the mini's yet, to my shame and chagrin. 11 to go...

Here are the trays side by side, so you can see the height difference. The miniatures tray is great, because most mini's can be stored standing.

Topper... on top.

Battle Boards and rule books. Extra protection for the mini's.

A perfect fit. One rulebook spine is rising slightly above the rim, but with the box lid on top this is no issue. I must say that this is one of the insert's strengths: in total it has perfect height (depth) for the game box. With the Battle Boards and rules on top, it closes perfectly and keeps everything in its place.

So much so, that I have no reservations about storing the game on its side!
And there it is, my pictorial overview / review of the Feldherr insert. All-in-all, I think it's functional, economic, mostly efficient (the odd shaped map tiles are difficult to design an insert for as it is), a perfect fit, safe storage for mini's, and I expect the insert to help in setup and teardown time as well. For what it's worth, I recommend it.

I just received a shipping notice for the Feldherr insert. Not sure when it will arrive, Saturday at the earliest I'd imagine.
Once I have it and organize everything, I will take some pictures and post them here.

Wow these look good! At first I shrugged this game off because I didn't want a $100s sitting on a shelf, but the more I see the more tempted I am to pick it up. Haven't painted anything since Mice & Mystics, so these cool minis are definitely a plus.

Wights
I love Undead miniatures. My favorite project so far is the Sepulchral Guard warband from Warhammer Underworlds. The corroded metal look on the swords is achieved by using Citadel's Typhoid Corrosion and Ryza Rust. Then a few highligt specs with silver/metal. These are fine sculpts as well, with small bits of bone visible in gaps of clothing.

Beravor and Aragorn
I think I felt a bit rushed painting these, they're a bit messier than I would've liked. And I'm terrible with faces. Still, they look alright on the tabletop.

Goblin Scouts
I didn't much enjoy painting these. In many other examples I have seen bare hands and upper arms, but I couldn't tell where skin started and clothing ended. So I went for a quicker route, and I think it fits these mini's. Generally speaking this is one gripe I have about the miniatures as a whole, that they have quite some detail, but too often there's no distinct demarcation between one thing and the other. Anyway, the simple approach on these Goblins worked out well, I feel.

Thanks for the tip CyborgNinja! 😊

Hill Troll
Probably the centre piece of this collection of miniatures, I really like how it turned out. I'm especially happy with the hammer. It's overall a great sculpt, with its cracked earth back.

Thanks for the tip CyborgNinja! 😊

Hill Troll
Probably the centre piece of this collection of miniatures, I really like how it turned out. I'm especially happy with the hammer. It's overall a great sculpt, with its cracked earth back.

Your best bet in FFG's forums is to upload the photo to an outside site kee imgur, then use the "insert other media" button and it should appear in your post. 

Hungry Wargs
I always love painting fur, it's so rewarding. Dark brown for the hide, lighter brown drybrush. And dark grey for the fur, lighter grey drybrush.
Eyes are always a problem for me but they came out okay. After matte protective varnish, a drop of gloss varnish in the eyes for extra glow.
Bases with small grey stones, one bigger one, and a tuft of grass.

Hungry Wargs
I always love painting fur, it's so rewarding. Dark brown for the hide, lighter brown drybrush. And dark grey for the fur, lighter grey drybrush.
Eyes are always a problem for me but they came out okay. After matte protective varnish, a drop of gloss varnish in the eyes for extra glow.
Bases with small grey stones, one bigger one, and a tuft of grass.

Thanks!
I use Citadel paints and washes.

Hungry Wargs
I always love painting fur, it's so rewarding. Dark brown for the hide, lighter brown drybrush. And dark grey for the fur, lighter grey drybrush.
Eyes are always a problem for me but they came out okay. After matte protective varnish, a drop of gloss varnish in the eyes for extra glow.
Bases with small grey stones, one bigger one, and a tuft of grass.

Hungry Wargs
I always love painting fur, it's so rewarding. Dark brown for the hide, lighter brown drybrush. And dark grey for the fur, lighter grey drybrush.
Eyes are always a problem for me but they came out okay. After matte protective varnish, a drop of gloss varnish in the eyes for extra glow.
Bases with small grey stones, one bigger one, and a tuft of grass.

the names of each enemy figure type are:
the orc with the sword is a "Goblin Scout" the orc with the bow and arrow is an "Orc Hunter" the orc with the two axes is an "Orc Marauder" the man with a knife and club is a "ruffian"  the warg is called a "Hungery Warg" the troll is called a "Hill Troll" the skeleton is called a "Wight"

Yes. You dont need to be a troll to see the mistakes on the first sight.   No dice, no characters other then those for the  LoTR  Fanboys, again too overloaded with rules and mechanics,  artiificial unnatural boards, especially the mini battlefield,  and so on. Iz contains clearly elements from half a dozen ffggames. Descent, Runebound, Runewars, Fallout, etc. It wants to be everything and is nothing, but a hundred Dollars. Good to see that is is not Terrinoth to flop. The reason is the academic overscrewed thinking of game designers. They can get a doctor title at university for this, but wont make any fun for the players. 

Belthir!  I love how when you first load it up after the update it shows the portrait of Belthir with the dragon wings perfectly placed so it looks like they're actually his...Clever devils.

I own 118 Descent miniatures (including 3 proxies for the Geomancer's Summoning Stones). A daunting task to paint, for sure, especially because I enjoy the result more than the process.
However, my enjoyment of the game will increase immensely if I get this work done, I am sure. I bought Descent 2e and various expansions solely for the Road to Legend app, to play solitaire. And it is one of my favorite gaming experiences in the modern era, if not of all time.
To help me get started, I came up with the idea to paint as I play, so to speak. Because the app saves a game regularly, I can see which Monsters are to be added, paint those Monsters first, and then play that quest. I am not 100% sure how this will work out, but it makes the overall task of painting 118 miniatures a lot more manageable. I thought I would share this process (and the results!) with you fine folk.
This first post will contain the master list of my progress, including links to individual posts of miniatures I have painted.
Heroes
Ravaella Lightfoot Rendiel Reynhart the Worthy Proxies
Summoning Stones Monsters
  Villains
 

I own 118 Descent miniatures (including 3 proxies for the Geomancer's Summoning Stones). A daunting task to paint, for sure, especially because I enjoy the result more than the process.
However, my enjoyment of the game will increase immensely if I get this work done, I am sure. I bought Descent 2e and various expansions solely for the Road to Legend app, to play solitaire. And it is one of my favorite gaming experiences in the modern era, if not of all time.
To help me get started, I came up with the idea to paint as I play, so to speak. Because the app saves a game regularly, I can see which Monsters are to be added, paint those Monsters first, and then play that quest. I am not 100% sure how this will work out, but it makes the overall task of painting 118 miniatures a lot more manageable. I thought I would share this process (and the results!) with you fine folk.
This first post will contain the master list of my progress, including links to individual posts of miniatures I have painted.
Heroes
Ravaella Lightfoot Rendiel Reynhart the Worthy Proxies
Summoning Stones Monsters
  Villains