Jump to content

footoomba

Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by footoomba

  1. Personally I love the busts Paint em up as marble or granite, both very easy to achieve effects. Anyone seen them in the flesh? Weighty? take paint nice?
  2. wastedyuthe said: footoomba said: obviously adjustable by fate Of course! That's if you have it. In my game last night, I must have had only 3-4 fate counters in my possession the entire game. But when my wife rolled a 1 last night and failed in Battle, she used a fate and rolled again, and got 1 again! nice rule im thinking
  3. footoomba said: wastedyuthe said: I have just played a game with the 1&6 rule (if you roll a 1 and your enemy rolls a 6, you lose- and vice versa). This made the game A LOT better in mine and my wife's opinion. Not only did it keep the game simple enough for non-RPG'ers to play, but it also removed the auto-win completely. a 1 and 6 on the dice only ever happened about twice in the entire game, but that's not the point. The point is, there is always a chance you can fail now, and that keeps the game exciting. I thoroughly recommend people try this out if they haven't already. i agree totally have tried my own system and others and must say in my mind this is the most solid BUT it depends what you want from it really oviously adjustable by fate
  4. wastedyuthe said: I have just played a game with the 1&6 rule (if you roll a 1 and your enemy rolls a 6, you lose- and vice versa). This made the game A LOT better in mine and my wife's opinion. Not only did it keep the game simple enough for non-RPG'ers to play, but it also removed the auto-win completely. a 1 and 6 on the dice only ever happened about twice in the entire game, but that's not the point. The point is, there is always a chance you can fail now, and that keeps the game exciting. I thoroughly recommend people try this out if they haven't already. i agree totally have tried my own system and others and must say in my mind this is the most solid BUT it depends what you want from it really
  5. wastedyuthe said: Great idea. Did you just assign one of the players to roll the die for his move every turn along with their own character? Or is it like the Reaper (roll a 1 on your move, and you must roll again to move the Thief)? currently thief moves last and character with highest movement roll for that turn, rolls for thief's move
  6. Lets try this Thief has NO lives starts with 2 gold Max 4 objects (no mule) No objects no life when given the choice will head towards player with talisman
  7. That would be great I just ordered a ton of mini us sleeves from mayday
  8. http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=130&efcid=1&efidt=150804" Not here to discuss my thread but the suggestion put forward by malthule in my thread Simplicates most of it I really like it It really has that ring of "IF" to it
  9. Played a 2 player game the other night and as we usually prefer more players we knocked up a few rules to have the thief roaming the board stealing stuff. skills are as printed on card. movement is as normal except the thief will always move towards the closest player or choose at random if their are 2 or more at the same distance. may take 1 gold or object chosen randomly (unless the character has a talisman in which case he will take it) from a character he lands on, although a player may evade if able to do so. does not interact with any board space or cards ie market,market day and village ability is out. may move in and out of middle and outer regions at no cost (he sneaks past the sentinel). may not enter the inner region. if you land on him you may attack as usual, however if he wins he will always take an object chosen randomly (again unless the character has a talisman). if he runs out of life he is out of the game and any stuff he had is left in the space he died. we enjoyed it just thought id share the idea.
  10. These look fantastic, any chance of uploading the files to Talisman Island? Also if your having trouble cutting thumb notches neatly, try using a circular hole punch from a craft store like this one.
  11. I thought the new cards were to small as well but when i dug out the old first edition to compare they are virtually the same (1-2mm shorter) and as i played with that set for years im happy with the new size (and they are thicker and glossier).
  12. that is exactley the sort of card i like to see, it may be bad at first glance but can also have a bonus effect, nice balance would like to see more like this.
  13. Hiya there, I've tried many methods for printing hundreds of cards for warhamer quest over the years but in the end i simply sleeve everything. Although I haven't tried to find sleeves for Talisman "YET" anyone know of a supplier of sleeves that have a nice fit, including character cards?
  14. Malthule said: Interesting. We have always played a houserule that if during ANY combat with another player if someone rolls a "1" on the combat roll and another player rolls a "6" the player rolling the "6" automatically wins the combat ... regardless of what the actual combat score is. It always gives the player who is trailing far behind at least a "chance" to get lucky. I really like that take on it, i may have to use it. in fact i think i like it more than mine.
  15. Feldrik said: Remeber that making it possible for a powerful character to loose a fight makes it harder to win (and end) the game. I am not usually in favor of modifications that negate the successes of a player. it doesnt really lengthen the game that much as it is not that often that any result other than triple 1 or triple 6 makes any massive difference, it simply removes those cant lose/cant win situations, which are just frustrating.
  16. JCHendee said: You're talking about an "incremental" dice approach. There are much simpler systems already discussed that also have better verisimilitude in their probabilities. See THIS topic. its not actually that complex just another die roll if a 1or 6 comes up and it also contains the result. we have tried the 3d6 version and d10 but in the end we found leaving the single initial roll good enough for our purposes, as most of the time even after the second roll combat goes as normal using the initial result.
  17. just pulled out my 1st edition to compare cards with the new edtion and as suspected the Raiders card is somewhat softer than it used to be, now they only take your gold where as they used to take everything. No complaints from me there but it made me think that the raiders played as a movable entity like the reaper could be a rather cool adition to the game.
  18. Wel its not that advanced. Iv'e just bought 4th edition after having loved 1st edition for many years but haven't played for ages. Just remembered a house rule we used to use to make combat a little more risky for "super characters", and to give even the lowliest of toads a (very small) chance for victory in combat. By implementing this rule there is always a chance (however slim) of ANYONE winning or losing. put simply a battle or psychic combat is the same as usual until a 1 or 6 is thrown by the player (not enemies etc) when a players combat result is 1 or 6 throw 2 more dice. This initial dice roll is also your combat roll. If either of these dice result in the same as the first roll, (ie 1 or 6) use the other dice to determine result on table below. first roll of 1 first roll of 6 1 instant loss no modifier 2 -2 strengh/craft +1 strength/craft 3 -2 strengh/craft +1 strength/craft 4 -1 strength/craft +2 strength/craft 5 -1 strength/craft +2 strength/craft 6 no modifier instant victory so if you roll a 1, followed by double 1 you instantly lose the battle.(Nothing can prevent this) if you roll a 6, followed by double 6 you win the battle outright. if you roll a 1, followed by a 1 and a 5 you are at -1 strength or craft for that combat. their were a few special rules to cover special circumstances, the only 1 that springs to mind is the warrior (same as usual but warrior needs to roll double on his first roll). Hope others get some use out of it, ive got a book full of this stuff somewhere found my original game but not my house rule book.
×
×
  • Create New...