Jump to content

Hipsu

Members
  • Content Count

    204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hipsu

  1. Rebels Jyn Odan Gaarkhan Diala Passil Gideon Argus Fenn Signis (I'm most pleased with this one. You can actually see his eyes behind the glasses) Luke Skywalker Han Solo and Chewbacca
  2. Mercenaries Trandoshan Hunters Nexu IG-88 Boba Fett (actually, could use a layer of Coelia Greenshade...)
  3. Hi, I'm Miikka Sohlman, aka Hipsu in here and elsewhere. I've been painting miniatures, on and off, for 6 years now. Mostly off. I had a considerable pause before IA rekindled that fire again. Here's what I've painted this far, roughly in this order. As you can see my order follows pretty much Sorastro's. I don't use the same paints or techniques as he, but I'm always curious to see what crazy schemes he comes up with before I paint mine, which is why I haven't overtaken him yet. You'll see some of his ideas sto.. borrowed here. Most of these paint jobs have an unpleasant sheen on them. I use satin varnish because in my experience matte often dulls them too much. But goshdarnit if they don't reflect the spotlight I point at them for photo shooting. IRL they are not this shiny, trust me! They are actually very pleasant to look at. You'll find even bigger resolutions if you click the pictures. For those who enjoy dust particle spotting. Imperials Stormtroopers Probe Droids E-Web Engineers Royal Guards (They are not this shiny IRL!) Imperial Officers (I've gotten better at skin tones and faces since.) Darth Vader (I'm getting back in the groove)
  4. Because some people have never played TIE Figher, I thought I'd drop this here. Very good look at why it's so good and fascinating and still holds up today! There's a good point at the end of the video. Even though I've played hundreds if not thousands of hours combined of all the games in the X-wing series, I never put together how cleverly immersive it is to have to reach to your keyboard and find that obscure key combination that transfers more energy from lasers to shields, as if you were managing a real cockpit console. So for the maximum immersion try NOT to map all the keys into the joystick or worse, a gamepad.
  5. So can people move their topics under this subforum on their own or do they need moderator help?
  6. If your wash-applying style is rough, sure, use your cheaper brushes for that. It's usually not super precision work. And use a cheaper one for the Ardcoat as well. I don't like the thought of having it drying on Kolinskys. I use cheaper brushes for washes and ardcoat because they don't need precision and not using expensive Kolinskys is the best way to preserve them. One technique that will really mess your brushes up is drybrushing (see ep2. probe droids) so for that be sure to have some cheap flat synthetic, or otherwise tough brush around. I also use cheap brushes for transferring and mixing paints. Basically anything that doesn't require the Kolinsky precision.
  7. Hi Frog, you must be GreenLantern2814 from BoardGameGeek. I think they look pretty nice considering they are your firsts. My suggestions for the next 3 are simple: Stay far away from that Testors cleaner. (In fact I would make sure to be completely rid of it by cleaning the brushes with dishwashing soap this one time before starting the next batch.) When painting, rinse your brush more often in the cup during painting so that paint doesn't have a chance to dry on it at any point. Also, it was a good idea to apply the nuln oil selectively, but you can be more generous with it on the helmets because they have so many little features on them which we need to "pop out" with the help of the wash. Then, when bringing white back to the helmet be careful of it running into the crevices where the nuln oil sits. You can avoid this by, after loading the paint into the brush, wiping some of it onto a paper towel, so that it's almost dry (but not necessarily drybrush -dry, just dry enough so that the paint doesn't run everywhere when you touch the figure). When loading paint into the brush try to avoid loading it all the way up to the ferrule (i.e. base of the hairs). It's hard to get out and not good when it dries in there. I know it's hard and sometimes impossible, but it's something you should strive to avoid. See if your local art store sells this brush soap (I already linked this to you in BGG, but others in this thread might be interested). As you can read from the reviews it's supposed to help you clean your brushes in the future and also restore them if you've abused them too hard. If you want to touch up these figures, you can simply paint over the varnish and after that varnish it again. If after the next 3 you're still unhappy and looking for more advice, I would put the STs to the side for a moment and paint other figures, Droids and Royal Guards, maybe others if you feel like it. They will expand your painting knowledge and after those you are so much more experienced that you might know right away yourself how to improve the STs.
  8. Here are mine. I'm especially proud of the bases! (Click for even bigger size if you want)
  9. Awww... she's been crying, poor little thing. Have those Rebels been stunning you and being too close so that you can't shoot them again? Those bullies! (reminds me of red eyes and runny makeup ) (seriously though, looks great!)
  10. One cheap and easy solution is to make A&V packs for each of the big box units and include 1 extra regular card in them. (I know it's too late for Stromtroopers, but from now on...)
  11. ibsh, I found two little mishaps in two of your maps Endor Wilderness: The plus shaped tile with the blocking terrain (tree roots on a rock), at the bottom half of the map, is oriented the wrong way. Imperial Research Lab: Check the doors on the minimap.
  12. Shadow it away, dark brown. And if you paint the glow on the cloak, avoid those shadows. It's surprisingly effective. No-one will notice any strangeness even if they examine it up close.
  13. Hi. I'm not sure if I understood that door situation. Are you saying on some maps you've moved a door one tile away from its original place? What do you mean by tile restrictions? Looks good. I think I'm going to try coloring the doors and terminals yellow in the minimaps to stand out from the grey tiles, but let's say I went with these files. What do I order from the pixartprinting site? Large format PVC Banners? What do I enter in the Width and Height fields? Cutting method? File verification? And then they send me 4 rolled banners from which I cut out the individual maps myself, right? Thanks.
  14. I remember being intimidated. I tried to cheat and paint the cloak dark grey and then wash it with black all-over. I hated the result so much that I stripped the whole mini and started over, this time humbly following Sorastro's way and layer the highlights in going lighter and lighter. It's not too bad once you get started. Don't worry about the lightsaber reflections until you've done everything else first. You can do it!
  15. Europeans might know a product called Fairy Power Spray. It's got rave reviews for stripping paint (I've used it too)
  16. I thought I'd share a very newbie friendly trick that helps greatly when painting eyes. An ultra-fine pen, size 0.05mm (or just 005). Just google "0.05 pen". I dotted Jyn's pupils with one.
  17. I've liquefied some dry paints and you get slightly better paint out of it by thinning it with medium instead of water... But nothing terribly opaque in any case. I wish I had some actual Edge paints to compare their consistencies. Your Diala looks great.
  18. I believe Sorastro has said he's not actually an expert on different brands. My thoughts: Luckily Stormtroopers can't break your budget no matter what brand you get. You just need white spray primer, then black and white paints (and grey if you want but if you're REALLY on a budget, you can mix any grey tone from black and white). Possibly red to mark the elites. And you need a black wash such as Nuln Oil. Washes are basically really thin paints but you can't make Nuln Oil with just black paint and water. You'd need some medium such as Lahmian medium and even then it's tricky. DON'T skip the wash, it's the one step that ultimately transforms your figures from plastic toys to "realistic" looking miniature versions of the real things. They add the shadows and the definition. There's some weird science behind this but we miniature painters have to "fake in" the shadows and the definition with washes to make them look realistic. If you want a cleaner look, perhaps try applying it more selectively and not splash it all over the mini like Sorastro does in his video. But be prepared to tidy it up with white paint afterwards anyways... I recommend Army Painter's Dark Tone Ink wash. It's exactly like Nuln Oil, but you get more for the price and in a nice dropper bottle for easier measuring. Later if you want more shades, I recommend getting their whole ink set. As to the paints, I like Vallejo Model Colors over Citadel's myself, mainly for the dropper bottles and reasonably good coverage. They're cheaper than Citadel too but they're not "budget" paints either... I've heard some budget-minded people use some cheap hobby store acrylic tubes, but they look really thick to me and I've yet to see a photo of great results with them... I could be totally wrong about them too. Finally, I found painting the 9 Stormtroopers waaaay more fiddly and time consuming than I thought it'd be, almost daunting. The Probe Droids (episode 2) on the other hand were a breeze. Consider starting with them. You need grey primer, some silverish metallic paint, black paint for the lenses, and a black wash. Gloss varnish for the lenses if you want to go that extra mile. They are very quick and satisfying to paint.
  19. Great minds think alike! I'm also going for a "temple ruins" theme for Diala, but I'm going to use Micro Art Studio's Ancient Bases.
  20. It hurts me physically to see this thread in the 2nd page. Bump. The crates are "Tech Crates #1" set from Micro Art Studios (but they don't currently have it listed for some reason). Edit: they have Large versions, don't get those, they are too big.) The base IG-88 is standing on belongs to the 25mm "Scrap Yard" set from Secret Weapon Miniatures.
  21. Their most desired grey cards have been out of stock for as long as I can remember. So please do.
  22. Do we have an official answer to the original question yet?
  23. Not sure if the Applied Perspective alternatives (1.5mm) have been linked yet: http://www.appliedperspective.com/acrylic/product/imperial-assault-clear-base-pack/
  24. An alternative to the Edge paint "Baharroth Blue" is "Skink Blue" from their Dry range, but you have to re-liquefy it yourself (see video below, 8:50). It's the exact same pigment, only drier. PSA: Edge are the same as Dry.
×
×
  • Create New...