Jump to content

Hipsu

Members
  • Content Count

    204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Hipsu

  1. There are obviously many ways, but I'll share mine. Although I'm also always trying to improve my technique. 0. Whichever way you go, DON'T use pure white for the eyeball. Because eyeballs are not pure white. Pure white makes them stand out too much, like the figure is wide-eyed and scared, or make it look cartoony. Use some off-white instead. Pure white is OK only if you add a shade on top of it afterwards. 1. Shade the eye area with a dark wash. Or you can do this after step 2 also. 2. Brace yourself, meaning lock the wrists against the table and together so that the only moving part in your body are the two fingers holding the brush. Holding breath may help. Paint the eyeball with off-white such as light sand, light beige, whatever. If it's messy that's ok, you can clean around it with skin colors afterwards. 3. Paint a black pupil. The key is to have a good tip on the brush, not so much how many strands it has. A1bert's single hair (I know he said it tongue in cheek) brush won't work because without any belly the paint dries on the hairs before you can bring it up to the face. I recommend Winsor & Newton Series 7 Miniature size 0 or 00. Premium Kolinsky brushes like W&N or Rosemaries have very sharp tips and they keep their shapes. OR, cheat and use a size 005 (0.2mm) pen. Sakura Pigma Micron is a popular one. Btw, this picture is one of my earlier attempts and here the eyeballs may have ended too brown... (still better than pure white) 3.5 More pupil and less white around it usually looks better. Again too much white with narrow pupils in the middle makes a wide-eyed look. 4. Lastly, if you made a mess, don't worry. Start painting skin around the eyes and hem it in. You may have to introduce a dark wash again to separate the eyes from the eyelids. Be careful. I'm going to link Vince Venturella's video here that he uploaded yesterday. He deserves way more viewers, so check out the other videos in his Hobby Cheating series as well.
  2. Repaints? (sounds like you are never satisfied at your first attempts ) Looks great, btw.
  3. RusakRakesh's links are dead so I made my own. Including one sassy R5 droid. These are same sizes as the official tokens (25mm). DPI=300. Or if you need help scaling this image for printing, the picture should be 188x28 mm or 7,4x1,1 inches. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bydx4yh8bcw_YVdQZUtqamg1WUk/view?usp=sharing I used those extra unit tokens from Imperial Assault (that are meant to be used if you haven't bought the miniatures) as bases because they happen to be the right size. Then I glued these onto them.
  4. That's a sound suggestion, I get it. But personally, I learned long ago to prefer having a little spacing in between, because: I use a rotary paper trimmer -thingy for jobs like this (for speed and ease, and guaranteed straight lines), but it's very hard align the paper so that it cuts exactly along the line. Harder than with scissors actually. It usually ends up being of by a millimeter. Which means I can see the outlines on the other set, which my perfectionism can't stand. So, I have to go back in anyways and shave off that millimeter. But cutting that thin a sliver is actually easier said than done, which is why I prefer to have more material in there. I wonder I managed to explain it... So I'm afraid you have put up with my weird preferences. I'm sorry for the extra work...
  5. Interesting Idea. 18-Pocket Compact Pages Mini American may work well for heroes. Do you organize your reward cards and hero cards into albums or just keep them stacked in a box? Stacked in a box. They would look very neat in albums, but in the end I'm not sure if it's really practical enough to justify it. So the Command Cards are the only cards that are in albums, for now. The only other cards I've really considered albumizing, are the Agenda sets. There are so many! I find it a bit of a chore to go through all of them at the start of a campaign and try to decide which sets to take. I think an album would help there.
  6. In that case, consider dedicating a Mini American Flexxfolio just for those. Why? Each page in that has 9 mini pockets (on both sides). Each class has 9 cards. You can't get neater than that. Or, a mini album and pages.
  7. I bought some for X-wing as well, but 2 packages = 20 pages should last for a long time. That's 2*10*32 = 640 pockets. We have about 150 different Command Cards ATM. I've utilized both sides of the pages and have used 12 pages so far.
  8. That's awesome. Do you have these sleeved inside the pages? The actual cards are, the scanned proxies are not. I happen to use Arcane Tinmen's Board Game Sleeves - Mini. The pockets can take 1 sleeved card comfortably. 2 is a bit of a struggle though. I've also tried Docsmagic.de Mini sleeves (he put in a free sample last I ordered something), and they are a tiny bit smaller than Arcane Tinmen's, thus fitting a bit better into the pockets, even 2 of them.
  9. My most regular opponent uses my stuff, so I put 2 copies in a pocket (if I own 2 copies). 3+ copies are out. 2-limit cards I like to divide into 2 different pockets always for some weird consistency's sake. So sometimes it's 1 card in each, sometimes 2x2. But this is not very important... Now someone should figure out a system where the player who's taking his cards out last from the same binder, doesn't see empty pockets and deduce what the other player took... (Btw, those Jundland's in the photo are violating my sorting order (first cost, then alphabet). I've relocated them since taking the photo)
  10. Crossposting from BGG I finally figured out the best way to sort and organize my Command Cards. I like to sort my cards by keywords. That way if I want to make, say, a Trooper deck, I don't have to go through all the cards, but instead only those that are relevant. But, as you probably know, this has proven surprisingly tricky. For example what about those cards that can be used by this or that unit, for example "Brawler or Hunter". Here's my solution: First, a binder and these pages: Ultimate Guard 32-pocket Pages Mini American They are good quality, pockets on both sides, and universal ring holes so they work for 2, 3, or 4 ring binders. They also have leftover 5mm wide minipockets at the top and bottom of the pages, which I have utilized. Look at the top right corners. In the first pages I put in all the Unique Characters, sorted by faction, then alphabetically by the character's name for ease of finding. Then I put in all the Universal i.e. keywordless cards that work in any builds. For example Take Initiative. Notice I have not put in cards that only works with specific units, such as Reinforcements. Those can be found later in the Trooper section. I've sorted cards first by cost, then alphabetically. After that, "Any Figure" -cards. And finally, each keyword gets a page, starting alphabetically from "Brawler" and ending with "Wookiee". Here's a photo of a "Spy" page. See Slippery Target? It's a scan of the original card, which I've chosen to put in the Smuggler page, instead of here. I've put a copy here because if I have Spies in my list, I want to see all the options in one page. And if I want it in my deck I can find the actual card under Smuggler. Here's another example. I've put copies of Weiss' and Somos' cards here because if I was considering making a Trooper list, I like to be reminded of those two cards. I hope you get the logic. A few cards are usable on their own but are also extra useful if paired with a correct unit. For example Emergency Aid heals 2, but also +1 if used by a Guardian or a Leader. So I've put that card under Any Figure, but also put copies under those two keywords. Credit for the card scans goes to Stmack in the IA wiki. I only added the "under xxx" texts. If you are interested in printing out my stuff, here's a link to the pdf: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bydx4yh8bcw_d0VsU0daRExURG8/view?usp=sharing And here's the index of how I've sorted everything out https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1IjaJvM-BHb2bxfeS3CQfSw2ILgmWB8FbHqxkXpQekJc/edit?usp=sharing Everything is up to date up to Bespin. I'm interested to hear if anyone finds this useful?
  11. I also see you removed a nonsensical window graphic in Blaise's map. You are crazy (and I like it). Btw, minor typo in Lando's map, Illicit Reserves, last line, there's a period that should be a comma.
  12. I think the line that passes from the shoulder to the bicep is a moldline, but it also connects to an actual armor feature on the bicep piece. So removing it is going to be tricky. I'd leave it, nobody will notice it unless you point it out. Your comparison pics shows unreal improvement considering you painted them back to back.
  13. Oh snap, I just realized that's one figure that's going to be super painful to try to cut out of its original base... She looks amazing, btw! Great job highlighting the robes.
  14. C-3PO and R2-D2. I had surprising amount of fun painting these two friends.
  15. Did you lathered it all over or apply it selectively? Did you thin it down? What exact product is it? I know Vallejo Game Inks don't give those kinds of results unless I'm using them wrong.
  16. I'm doing the same thing as Fizz, but with Dragon Shields. Black, white, red. It's not 100% perfect system for campaign though because the Rebel players can't see the card backs (which they are allowed to know), but they do see how many elites (red cards) are incoming (which they should not know).
  17. I'm going to follow this thread because I'm kinda in a crisis about this topic as well. It all started well and good, and has since gotten out of hand. - 3 different rim colors to differentiate the groups from one another: Black, white, red. - 3 different colored top-of-the-base textures to denote allegiance: Grey, reddish brown, beige. (Although I still haven't painted any Rebel non-uniques which would have those beige tops.) - New idea! Unique bases for unique units! Which means the idea about the top of the bases don't work anymore. - So let's have 3 new colors for the rims of unique bases to denote their allegiance: Purple, green, beige. - I'd also like to somehow add habitat colors to the relevant non-uniques. Haven't gotten that far yet, but it's going to muddle up things for sure! ...it's a mess. Don't even ask me to explain. It's been a journey! Once I figure out how to simplify things, I'll probably do some extensive repaints. The obvious thing to do, of course, is to match the unique rims to the non-unique base tops. So purple -> grey. Green -> brown. Rebels were already going to be that way. The only color I'm happy and sure about right now, is the beige rim for Rebel uniques. It seems to fit them quite nicely. Examples in my signature.
  18. Wow, FrogTrigger, now I'm actually impressed! These are very pleasant to look at. Very "clean" and "sharp". I like them very much! That thigh is going to be tricky to fix. For best result I would simply do over that particular side of that thigh "ridge". So paint it white and clean again, then carefully re-apply the nuln oil. I think that would give the best result with no patchiness to it.
  19. Frog, I dug up an old thread about the troubles people had with white. Perhaps this is helpful? https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/168136-freakin-stormtroopers/
  20. Ah, my bad about the Ugnaughts. However, 2+1 of those guys is enough, if you buy 2 Bespin boxes. You'll then have 4+2 which is the maximum you can bring to skirmish anyways. I think they thought about that. I mean, the Stormtroopers, Droids, Officers etc. i.e. the 3 groups were never the issue. 2 copies got you everything you needed. The crux of the issue are the 2 groups with only 1 regular card creating the need for 4 copies and the headache of owning more figures than usable deployment cards. The issue has been fixed in this expansion.
  21. Major bump! I just watched Crabboks unboxing of Bespin Gambit. They finally did it! They included extra regular cards for Wing Guards and Ugnaughts! They listened!
  22. Mak Eshka'rey, fresh from the painting table
  23. I guess I have to disclose at this time that I was doing some experimental stuff back then with those STs. I was trying out oil washes, so what you see in the crevices is thinned oil paint, not Nuln Oil. I don't think nuln oil even touched those figures. Btw I don't necessarily recommend oils, I was just experimenting. But if I were using nuln oil, yes it would be all wash, just like Sorastro does it. The only parts I painted black on the helmets were the eyes and the unibrow. I could imagine 2 reasons why it didn't work out for you. Either you've clogged the details with too much white primer/paint, so the nuln oil has nothing to crawl into. Or, your nuln oil is not as dark as Sorastro's nuln oil. I've heard people are having different results with the product. Perhaps a brand new pot doesn't darken as much as older stuff where some of the medium has evaporated and the wash is more concentrated and thus darker...
  24. Bonus! Recently I organized all my painting stuff with the help of HobbyZone products. I just wanted to show you all my snazzy painting corner!
×
×
  • Create New...