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  2. I used OCD as a reductio ad absurdum, to show the extremeness of thought that is coming from those who require everything be 'exactly' to proportion, so they can enjoy their minis more. Is calling something 'murderous' making light of murder? No.
  3. First up a 30-minute Star Viper mod and re-paint: I don't really love the way the stock FFG Star Viper model looks straight out of the package. To me the ship looks a bit to passive. I saw someone modify theirs to sweep the wings back and I wanted to give that a go. The article had a complex procedure of disassembling the model, re-shaping parts, removing glue and re-assembling. I just forced the wings back and hit each with a drop of super glue. Done in 60 seconds. The stock white star viper is good for the ace Guri, but I wanted to have a second one with a different look in order to distinguish the two. This one I went for a bronze look with a simple sepia ink wash all over, then re-painted the highlights appropriately with orange and yellow. I followed this up by highlighting the guns with some steel dry brushing and a final liberal application of wear and tear with two colors using the torn sponge method. Total time 30 minutes...and well worth it I think!
  4. How-to use Officer "Adar Tallon" - Star Wars Armada Explained (SWAE)
  5. The legs move slightly at the top joint, but I think that’s just the way it’s put together. They don’t bend at the knee. The head moves a little from side to side. The body and head are metal and the legs and guns plastic, so they do have a good weight to them.
  6. For me personally, painting them is part of the game, so I don’t mind taking my time. Especially now that I have enough painted miniatures to make an army, to there’s less of a rush.
  7. Yesterday
  8. Gull-Wing Z-95 Nashta Pup Conversion Since acquiring a Hounds Tooth for my X-wing scum forces I've wanted to paint up a matching Z-95 for the Nastha Pup escape craft. There are some good tutorials on how to do it but I wanted to do something a bit different. It was my thinking that if a ship were to be carried in a hanger it would need folding wings. I wanted my pup to be gull-winged. To accomplish this I used a jeweler's saw to under cut each wing at the root and bent them down, closing the newly-created saw kerf with some plastic cement. Then I added some winglets made from plastic card to complete the effect. I've re-painted it in my interpretation of the pup's color scheme. I left off the top beak 'teeth'. Even though the card art shows them, I didn't like the look of them on such a small model. This mod and re-paint took a couple of hours, but I feel it was well worth the time.
  9. I doubt I'll ever use the Taboo List to be honest. When I'm playing with other people it would just be a turn off to my more casual group. We already get kicked in the nuts enough at the higher player counts, and they are not exactly looking to exploit the card pool for every broken combo when they spend their experience. I can just imagine the reaction when I tell them we have the option to make the game harder and more restrictive. When I play by myself maybe, but I'm thinking I probably won't bother (or at least won't bother with most of these). I usually make thematic and janky decks anyway. I'm not blasting through these scenarios. I guess it's nice to play things like Rex, Higher Ed and Key of Ys without feeling guilty. I don't like that they took away Sleight of Hand + Tommy Gun or Typewriter with this though. I love thematically and mechanically pulling a Tommy Gun out of my coat and blasting away. It was also nice for Leo or Zoey if they wanted to try and run Shotgun to make that weapon more worth wild. I don't think I'd ever play with that correction or pay 3 xp for a Switch Blade level 2. Paying more XP to get Streetwise online is also gonna make any Preston deck way more frustrating. Not sure I like the idea of that.
  10. Whoah, nice obscure EU reference! https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/Ruke_Chowall
  11. Gull-Wing Z-95 Nashta Pup Conversion Since acquiring a Hounds Tooth for my X-wing scum forces I've wanted to paint up a matching Z-95 for the Nastha Pup escape craft. There are some good tutorials on how to do it but I wanted to do something a bit different. It was my thinking that if a ship were to be carried in a hanger it would need folding wings. I wanted my pup to be gull-winged. To accomplish this I used a jeweler's saw to under cut each wing at the root and bent them down, closing the newly-created saw kerf with some plastic cement. Then I added some winglets made from plastic card to complete the effect. I've re-painted it in my interpretation of the pup's color scheme. I left off the top beak 'teeth'. Even though the card art shows them, I didn't like the look of them on such a small model. This mod and re-paint took a couple of hours, but I feel it was well worth the time.
  12. I was wondering everyone's thoughts on the Sith Infiltrator, since it has been a month since release. We're seeing a lot of lists in both Hyperspace and Extended with the Jedi, but not so much the Sith. What are everyone's views on the strengths and weaknesses of this ship? Personally, I love it. Running the Sidekicks list with Maul, Dooku, and Grievous has been incredibly fun for me. I feel that the Force hijinks that you can do overcome the weak defense and make utilization of the very maneuverable dial, for a Large ship, much easier.
  13. It's the new Title Card: "Punishing One II: The Punishinging"
  14. Binayre Pirate (24) Deadman’s Switch (2) Electronic Baffle (2) Total: 28 Hahahaha this is great.
  15. I find that basing to suit your color scheme works well and you can execute consistently. basic ruke of thumb: darker minis, lighter base scheme so it shows off the colors better. Lighter color minis, like stormtroopers, benefit from a darker basing scheme to make the minis pop. As others stated, your gaming surface won’t be universally one type from game to game, so don’t fret if you have Endor bases on a Tattoine map! Vallejo and Citadel make a lot of great pre-colored basing ‘pastes’. Basically they’re paint with sand grit in them that applies like a paint. Generally a coat of that, a wash and dry brush to bring out the texture and you’re sorted. From there, you can explore different textures via static grass, scrub, snow etc. a good example of a simple contrast scheme would be what they did for the clone wars set; both armies are lighter color schemes, with a dark Martian soil base, making it thematic to Geonosis while not overpowering the minis. hope that helps!
  16. Wow. These are awesome. As you said, the scale is probably fine since you'll be looking at them from an altitude. I would probably splash a little black wash on them to dirty them up a bit. Are the legs articulated?
  17. Have any of you played them though? I hear a lot of praise for them but I've had multiple games where they are in heavy cover with extra dice due to danger sense and they get wiped out after getting shot once. 4 wounds not to mention the ones the heavy cover blocked. They don't demand respect or resources if white dice dont ever roll blocks. You may say I'm not playing right but having them in cover with suppression where only one unit can get to them turn one is about the best you can do. If youre not using infiltrate, then why take them over rangers or even troopers with z6? I can get scout 3 from a unit of rangers that have recon intel and if the characters aren't worth taking I'm not sure the unit is worth taking. The special forces slot is overcrowded as it is and rebels don't get entourage. @SirCormac At least you had a suggestion and i will try that. Jyn seems like a one woman threat and is easier to hide but she will do damage. I don't feel like the pathfinders can hit hard enough even with the characters Pao and Bistan. I was hoping bistan would be a decent anti tank unit if parked in heavy cover in a sniper nest but i dont know if he's worth it. I may have to convert rebel veterans out of that second squad
  18. Arc Dodge 101 Not sure if anyone has mapped out where you will fail an Arc Dodge with 2nd Edition Barrel Rolls before. I have never tried to and the exercise seems useful. Please correct what I get wrong here or explain how you approach it. Moving Last 1v1: Arc Dodging is not difficult when you are moving last against 1 ship. You Move after someone, you boost roll out. Done. However...plenty of players (including myself) still mess it up and attempt a boost/roll that lands in arc ( typically stressed + no mods for their troubles ). I tend to Arc Dodge by practicing sighting where a Boost (&/or) Roll will land. I depend on that more than any rule of thumb based on opponents position/arc. If I can sight that reliably, I can do it on the fly during games and just line it up with where I think the arc line is. All that said looking at "where" in arc allows you to get out of Arc at minimum makes for cool images. If you are loosely lined up with the Front of your opponents base offset a bit you might have a chance to dodge. The tricky bit sometimes is knowing where you cant be. ( Roughly Inside Range 2-3 lined up with the opponent, wider area the further away you are ) To far forward and the bank boost will "bump". Identify that and you can boost the other way, don't and fail action in arc With just a barrel roll the "band" that allows an arc dodge is more narrow. Approaching from an angle saves "Re-position" Actions, key for winning games. So you can modify your dice or conserve Force Charges. Moving First 1v1: How do you fight Aces who are moving last 1v1? Two years in to playing xwing I am not sure I can explain this. I have done it, but rarely "intentionally". Pretty sure it becomes all about Getting Shots, not avoiding shots. You want to force some or all of the following to happen: Trade Shots and do more damage than they do (worst case is suffering uncontested shots) Force them to disengage so you can "chase" Try to force them into a "mistake" Create Safe Space Knowing where you would want to be to Arc Dodge while moving last gives you hints as to how to fly an Ace moving first. Using the sides of the board helps against Aces moving last as well. Corners and other Angles at minimum reduce the # of arc dodge options they have available. Approach with Rocks in the way of re-positions is also critical. Jumping range to take a shot, before the Aces ideal Arc dodge "turn" is useful. Often Aces will play cagey until they know they can get to the Green Areas. Players will often try to carefully set up the Arc Dodge turn, you can see it coming they will go "slower" or bank away from combat the turn before the arc dodge turn usually. You can take advantage of that by jumping into range while they are more likely to be in the Orange Areas above. Remember your goal is to force a trade. Obviously having wing mates changes the picture entirely. Allows you to set boxes basically, force a chase. Super Natural Reflexes, Advanced Sensors. Decloaks, Rear Arcs, Multi Arcs etc. change everything about this dynamic, moving first is no longer as much of a problem so its really not very interesting to think about or discuss in this specific context. Under normal circumstances alot depends on your opponents dial the better you know it the easier this will be Moving first you can somewhat create safe space by... Setting up Blocking/Locking turns where you dont defend, followed by K-Turns Go to the the spot directly in front of them where their slowest moves go or the spot they already are. This can help you set up a "chase", this is dogfighting after all. If you can get behind them its easier to chase them down and there is a chance they will panic and disengage longer than they should/need to, or they might not "hard turn" to shake you. Example: X-Wings and Tie Advanced's are useful because they can "go slow" to keep arc on target, classic 1 forward to victory. Stays engaged longer to K-Turn at a more natural time. Kylo and Soontir's two speeds make them vulnerable to blocks, they have to actively remember to carefully manage range and not to stress to keep the K-Turn Threat Available. Often having to settle for disengaging. Fang Fighters have a similar "problem" but they actively want to be in arc at range 1 so it kinda flips things, but creates serious problems the turn after the R1 shot if anything is left alive. Jedi have 1 banks but 2 forwards, lucky for them they rarely stress and can 5 K-turn which can put them entirely out of arc. Rarely has to disengage because they are rarely stressed, but can choose to recharge or recycle.
  19. As long as Clone Wars comes fairly early in Q3, I’ll be happy; kid #2 is on the way in October, so the sooner the better!
  20. I imagine bumping breaks the formation and you have to move ships individually
  21. I wonder if I've been thinking about Shortcut wrong? Page 3: Some abilities have bold action designators (such as Fight, Evade, Investigate, or Move). Activating such an ability performs the designated action as described in the rules, but modified in the manner described by the ability. Shortcut(2) could be a move action, which is modified by being a fast trigger so you don't spend an action on it. I've been treating it just like a fast ability, but I'm thinking it's more like Ursula's ability in that it gives you an action without having to pay the action cost. That would make it consistent.
  22. I really hope the new Victory title gives the Support Team slot to the Vic, giving it several potential uses on the battlefield - at the moment is just a terrible ISD with no SAd. Adding Support Team as a title would also prevent Vic spam if it proves very popular. Options with a Support Team slot then open up to: - Engine Techs, speed 3 and better turning. Or Nav Team for better yaw on a token. An instant fix to make the Vic an effective medium size battleship. - Projection Experts, to spam shields across the rest of the fleet. Engineering Team to be even more tanky. Viable alternative to the Interdictor. - Fighter Coordination Team, to make it a better battle carrier and compete with the Quasar. Here’s hoping, would love to get my Vic on the table again!
  23. The problem with the Victory is NOT that it is speed 2 - the problem is that the ISD is speed 3. Nerf the ISD - problem solved.
  24. It's actually working correctly. You need to go to Vehicle Engines and select <No Engine> if you want to keep the built-in engine. Then you'll get your full 35 system strain. The reason is that removing engines and hulls is optional. You can take a ship as-is if you want, then replace the part with the appropriate attachment, which replaces the specified stats. What you're doing is removing the hull, but then replacing the existing engine with a new one (Single Ion Core by default), which drops the system strain (3 x silhouette (5) = 15). Changing to <No Engine> will keep the existing stats.
  25. Yeah when I opened mine and looked at force choke I had to do a double take. I had a almost had a Mandela Effect moment
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