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Painting Beobatchers


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#1 Dakkon426

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 04:28 PM

These guys have lots of hard to reach places dose anyone have any tips for getting them more easily?



#2 Loophole Master

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 04:42 PM

I don't know that the Beobachter are any harder to paint than most any Armor 2 axis troopers. The one with the binoculars is pretty easy, since he's not holding his weapon against his body. Just rotate the torso around and use a thin brush.



#3 Dakkon426

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 05:19 PM

 I'm having trouble getting behind the radio was thinking of taking them off, I guess I just need a stiffer brush then.  oh well…



#4 Loophole Master

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Posted 25 April 2012 - 05:25 PM

Well, just remember that if you have a very hard time getting to it, then you'll probably have a very hard time seeing it, so don't fuss about stuff you'll never actually see…



#5 JigBakerSugar

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 02:06 PM

1. Pre-painting: When you see an area you know is going to be hard to paint, before doing any other painting, put some color into those spots. For example, I'd paint some black or metallic up under the radio, before painting anything else. Even though it will be easier to paint the radio after the clothing, it'll be hard later to get paint under the radio without getting it on the clothing. Having some paint up in there beforehand means you don't have to deal with it later.

2. Take the figures apart! I found this out while doing my first test squad. I popped the heads off of the torsos, and used alligator clips pushed into corks to hold them (the neck/stem on the heads is actually pretty long, and easy for the clip to grab onto.) I also remove the torsos from the legs. I cut a toothpick in half, plunge the pointed end of each half into a cork, and stick the torso on the blunt end. This makes getting under the arms a million times easier. LAst, I actually remove the legs from the bases. Partly because I don't like the bolt bases, and want to swap them for old Rackham AT-43 bases. But also to make it easier to paint them. I drill a .033" hole into one leg, and glue in a .032" brass pin. I leave the pin long (about an inch or so) so that I can stick into a cork to hold while painting. When it comes time to attach it to a base, I drill a hole in the base, glue the figure in, and trim the pin off from the backside.



#6 Mattador Actual

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Posted 26 April 2012 - 02:19 PM

JigBakerSugar said:

1. Pre-painting: When you see an area you know is going to be hard to paint, before doing any other painting, put some color into those spots. For example, I'd paint some black or metallic up under the radio, before painting anything else. Even though it will be easier to paint the radio after the clothing, it'll be hard later to get paint under the radio without getting it on the clothing. Having some paint up in there beforehand means you don't have to deal with it later.

2. Take the figures apart! I found this out while doing my first test squad. I popped the heads off of the torsos, and used alligator clips pushed into corks to hold them (the neck/stem on the heads is actually pretty long, and easy for the clip to grab onto.) I also remove the torsos from the legs. I cut a toothpick in half, plunge the pointed end of each half into a cork, and stick the torso on the blunt end. This makes getting under the arms a million times easier. LAst, I actually remove the legs from the bases. Partly because I don't like the bolt bases, and want to swap them for old Rackham AT-43 bases. But also to make it easier to paint them. I drill a .033" hole into one leg, and glue in a .032" brass pin. I leave the pin long (about an inch or so) so that I can stick into a cork to hold while painting. When it comes time to attach it to a base, I drill a hole in the base, glue the figure in, and trim the pin off from the backside.

You kick ass and do good work.  Thank you.  Please feel free to share any more random tips you may have, as they help me want to paint, and I don't wanna suck at it. 

I did take 'em apart and switch poses, but only to show off the special weapons better. 



#7 TallDwarf

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 05:46 AM

 Are the guys "made" to come apart? Will you be able to "click" them back together again or do you need to guy them on. Do you cut them apart with a knife?

I don't really want to experiment with the units.

I do appreciate the tips though. Just started painting with my wife a few days ago. We are both enjoying it.



#8 Dakkon426

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 01:17 PM

 yes, they have a ball in cup joint at the waist and the heads are removable as well, but they are glued.(only the heads are glued)



#9 TallDwarf

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 04:29 AM

 So do you pull the guys apart and fit them back together with the ball joint or do you cut and then glue the pieces on?

Take care.



#10 Dakkon426

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 08:41 AM

 I don't glue them at the waist, I like them able to move but either way is fine.



#11 TallDwarf

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 01:00 PM

I have heads on spikes and I feel like a king from Game on Thrones. The heads are mounted on toothpicks with blue-tack on both ends of the wood.

I have started removing the heads as I paint and now it is time to actually paint and then reassemble. What kind of glue do people use for glueing in the heads? (I am getting brave in my old age as a painter - now on the 4th unit).

Again, any help would be appreciated.

Take care and have a great day.



#12 Dakkon426

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Posted 01 October 2012 - 03:09 PM

 I like to use PVA (elmers) glue on the heads as if I ever want to swap them, I can easily but super glue works too, its just a bit more permanent.  



#13 fhaugh

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Posted 02 October 2012 - 11:11 AM

TallDwarf said:

I have started removing the heads as I paint and now it is time to actually paint and then reassemble. What kind of glue do people use for glueing in the heads? (I am getting brave in my old age as a painter - now on the 4th unit).

I've replace the heads on most of my Axis figures (I hate painting faces), but the ones that I've kept I haven't glued in at all.  The "neck" is long enough and a snug fit that I've never had a head fall off.  And my guys are held sideways on a tray by the base so there's nothing even touching the heads to help hold them in place.

 



#14 TallDwarf

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 04:21 AM

 Thanks for the replies. I purchased some white glue but I ended up trying to put in the head without any glue and it was snug enough so that is why I will be doing unless I run into some problems.






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