Really love the rust effect you've made, it gives the model a lot of character even with a neat simple paint sheme.
May I ask a short tutorial on how to accomplish similar results?
Thanks for the compliments. I should first let you know right now im only shooting for game table quality minis so the tutorial is very short and sweet. Its for my German Forces.
1- I cover right over the DUST primed model with a very thinned down Tamiya Flat Black wash. Dont let it pool if you can in spots that look un-natural.
2-First highlight the whole model with GW Codex Gray. This will be a heavy highlight to bring back the base gray color tone I like to use. Use a good highlighting brush for this and use the small circle method to even out the highlights. The model will take shape at this point so dont get crazy with the highlighting you have to let some of the wash tone show through to give it depth and keep the recesses dark.
3-Second highlight is GW Fortress Gray. I use a big flat highlight brush for this and go with a very gentle touch and a very light amount of paint. You can go over a spot several time this way and build up the desired highlight effect you want so take it easy on the paint on the brush. Get it down to almost nothing, the highlights will still appear clearly.
4-Now i usually apply my decals or use an alcohol soaked q-tip to clean off the paint on the decals on the minis if pre-applied as most are. Otherwise I apply the decals I like using the Poly-S Decal softener or decal set depending on the surface shape.
5-Now for the weathering. For the Dust minis I use the sponge method and start with GW Scorced Brown and then bestial brown in a lesser manner. I try to look for natural spots where dirt and mud would build up. I also use these colors lightly on the upper model to show wear.
6-Next I apply some GW Boltgun Metal over the browns to show worn metal with the sponge. I often work this over the upper parts of the model as well. For some bigger damage I may make black lines along the model seams and corners with bolt gun metal in the middle of the back for heavier damage. Dont worry you can cover over any metal mistakes with the browns if you dont like them.
7-I used my weathering powders next for rust effects. I use Bragdon Enterprises because they are well priced and the the plastic containers are huge compared to FOW or MIG. Again I try to find natural spots where rust will build up on the legs and flat surfaces. I used the base dark rust powder first then the medium or lighter shade depending on the areas im rusting.
8-For areas where exhaust fumes may be I use the black powder for this and on the ends of the gun barrels.
9-The basing is just train ballist from my local hobby shop in different sizes wood glued to the base. Then I use a coat of Woodland Scenic-Scenic Cement over the rocks to bind them together. You can water down elmers glue as well. This keeps the rocks from falling off later down the road.
10-I wash the rocks and base again with the black Tamiya wash 2 times to get a dark look. The Highlight with GW Coex Gray followed by a light highlight of Space Wolves Gray to give the base depth.
11-Now its two coats of Rustoleum Painters Touch Clear Gloss and Two Coats Hobby Masters or Testors Clear Flat. The painters Touch is increadibly durable. I have models over 20 years old that look good as new. (Yes im older than 20!!)
Once the first wash dries the whole model takes about an hour or so to complete and the basing once the glue and wash dry only a few added minutes. I hope this helps and please share your results and try what you think fits your style and techniques for painting. Mine right now are driven by available time. Good Luck!!