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#1 mgentile7

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 04:35 PM

Just wanted to post a few new additions to my axis forces. My picture quality/lighting techniques with my IPhone camera is really poor.  My digital camera is in used by someone and I will not have back for a little while longer. Any suggestions in the mean time would be helpful to improve the IPhone pics.

 

 

 



#2 golem101

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 10:36 PM

Really love the rust effect you've made, it gives the model a lot of character even with a neat simple paint sheme.

May I ask a short tutorial on how to accomplish similar results?

 



#3 theguildllc

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:49 PM

is that 234/1 from Quarter Kit?



#4 mgentile7

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 02:42 PM

theguildllc said:

is that 234/1 from Quarter Kit?

Sorry Guildmeister. I forgot to hit you up when I posted the converted puma pic. Yeah thats the Quarter Kit conversion turret for it. Thats all thats in the kit but it looks great. Its bigger than the turret for the scout car or the one on the half track by a bit. I have the conversion for the 75mm short barrel cannon on my bench right now. I broke out my new air brush on the first one so ill do the same on the new one. I just wish I had my digital camera back to take better pictures. I will soon. I have to tell you im really digging those powders from Bragdon Enterprises. They make adding rust and smoke effects so easy and they look great even when clear coated for table play. Like I said I wish i could take better pics. Again sorry for not giving you a heads up.



#5 mgentile7

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:09 PM

golem101 said:

Really love the rust effect you've made, it gives the model a lot of character even with a neat simple paint sheme.

May I ask a short tutorial on how to accomplish similar results?

 

Thanks for the compliments. I should first let you know right now im only shooting for game table quality minis so the tutorial is very short and sweet. Its for my German Forces.

1- I cover right over the DUST primed model with a very thinned down Tamiya Flat Black wash. Dont let it pool if you can in spots that look un-natural.

2-First highlight the whole model with GW Codex Gray. This will be a heavy highlight to bring back the base gray color tone I like to use. Use a good highlighting brush for this and use the small circle method to even out the highlights. The model will take shape at this point so dont get crazy with the highlighting you have to let some of the wash tone show through to give it depth and keep the recesses dark.

3-Second highlight is GW Fortress Gray. I use a big flat highlight brush for this and go with a very gentle touch and a very light amount of paint. You can go over a spot several time this way and build up the desired highlight effect you want so take it easy on the paint on the brush. Get it down to almost nothing, the highlights will still appear clearly.

4-Now i usually apply my decals or use an alcohol soaked q-tip to clean off the paint on the decals on the minis if pre-applied as most are. Otherwise I apply the decals I like using the Poly-S Decal softener or decal set depending on the surface shape.

5-Now for the weathering. For the Dust minis I use the sponge method and start with GW Scorced Brown and then bestial brown in a lesser manner. I try to look for natural spots where dirt and mud would build up. I also use these colors lightly on the upper model to show wear.

6-Next I apply some GW Boltgun Metal over the browns to show worn metal with the sponge. I often work this over the upper parts of the model as well. For some bigger damage I may make black lines along the model seams and corners with bolt gun metal in the middle of the back for heavier damage. Dont worry you can cover over any metal mistakes with the browns if you dont like them.

7-I used my weathering powders next for rust effects. I use Bragdon Enterprises because they are well priced and the the plastic containers are huge compared to FOW or MIG. Again I try to find natural spots where rust will build up on the legs and flat surfaces. I used the base dark rust powder first then the medium or lighter shade depending on the areas im rusting.

8-For areas where exhaust fumes may be I use the black powder for this and on the ends of the gun barrels.

9-The basing is just train ballist from my local hobby shop in different sizes wood glued to the base. Then I use a coat of Woodland Scenic-Scenic Cement over the rocks to bind them together. You can water down elmers glue as well. This keeps the rocks from falling off later down the road.

10-I wash the rocks and base again with the black Tamiya wash 2 times to get a dark look. The Highlight with GW Coex Gray followed by a light highlight of  Space Wolves Gray to give the base depth.

11-Now its two coats of Rustoleum Painters Touch Clear Gloss and Two Coats Hobby Masters or Testors Clear Flat. The painters Touch is increadibly durable. I have models over  20 years old that look good as new. (Yes im older than 20!!)

Once the first wash dries the whole model takes about an hour or so to complete and the basing once the glue and wash dry only a few added minutes. I hope this helps and please share your results and try what you think fits your style and techniques for painting. Mine right now are driven by available time. Good Luck!!



#6 mgentile7

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:29 PM

golem101 said:

Really love the rust effect you've made, it gives the model a lot of character even with a neat simple paint sheme.

May I ask a short tutorial on how to accomplish similar results?

 

These are about the only pics I have where you can get a better feel for the rusting.



#7 mgentile7

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 03:32 PM

theguildllc said:

is that 234/1 from Quarter Kit?

Here is the other puma conversion with the long barrel cannon on it.



#8 golem101

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:51 PM

mgentile7 said:

golem101 said:

 

Really love the rust effect you've made, it gives the model a lot of character even with a neat simple paint sheme.

May I ask a short tutorial on how to accomplish similar results?

 

 

 

Thanks for the compliments. I should first let you know right now im only shooting for game table quality minis so the tutorial is very short and sweet. Its for my German Forces.

1- I cover right over the DUST primed model with a very thinned down Tamiya Flat Black wash. Dont let it pool if you can in spots that look un-natural.

2-First highlight the whole model with GW Codex Gray. This will be a heavy highlight to bring back the base gray color tone I like to use. Use a good highlighting brush for this and use the small circle method to even out the highlights. The model will take shape at this point so dont get crazy with the highlighting you have to let some of the wash tone show through to give it depth and keep the recesses dark.

3-Second highlight is GW Fortress Gray. I use a big flat highlight brush for this and go with a very gentle touch and a very light amount of paint. You can go over a spot several time this way and build up the desired highlight effect you want so take it easy on the paint on the brush. Get it down to almost nothing, the highlights will still appear clearly.

4-Now i usually apply my decals or use an alcohol soaked q-tip to clean off the paint on the decals on the minis if pre-applied as most are. Otherwise I apply the decals I like using the Poly-S Decal softener or decal set depending on the surface shape.

5-Now for the weathering. For the Dust minis I use the sponge method and start with GW Scorced Brown and then bestial brown in a lesser manner. I try to look for natural spots where dirt and mud would build up. I also use these colors lightly on the upper model to show wear.

6-Next I apply some GW Boltgun Metal over the browns to show worn metal with the sponge. I often work this over the upper parts of the model as well. For some bigger damage I may make black lines along the model seams and corners with bolt gun metal in the middle of the back for heavier damage. Dont worry you can cover over any metal mistakes with the browns if you dont like them.

7-I used my weathering powders next for rust effects. I use Bragdon Enterprises because they are well priced and the the plastic containers are huge compared to FOW or MIG. Again I try to find natural spots where rust will build up on the legs and flat surfaces. I used the base dark rust powder first then the medium or lighter shade depending on the areas im rusting.

8-For areas where exhaust fumes may be I use the black powder for this and on the ends of the gun barrels.

9-The basing is just train ballist from my local hobby shop in different sizes wood glued to the base. Then I use a coat of Woodland Scenic-Scenic Cement over the rocks to bind them together. You can water down elmers glue as well. This keeps the rocks from falling off later down the road.

10-I wash the rocks and base again with the black Tamiya wash 2 times to get a dark look. The Highlight with GW Coex Gray followed by a light highlight of  Space Wolves Gray to give the base depth.

11-Now its two coats of Rustoleum Painters Touch Clear Gloss and Two Coats Hobby Masters or Testors Clear Flat. The painters Touch is increadibly durable. I have models over  20 years old that look good as new. (Yes im older than 20!!)

Once the first wash dries the whole model takes about an hour or so to complete and the basing once the glue and wash dry only a few added minutes. I hope this helps and please share your results and try what you think fits your style and techniques for painting. Mine right now are driven by available time. Good Luck!!

Thanks for the in-depth tutorial.

It seems that we share a lot of techniques (I go through steps 1-7 are pretty much the same way), but I really need to scrap up some money and try those weathering powders I hear about so often.

Luckily in a month or so there will be a nice model-con near here, so I'll get to buy some.

 



#9 mgentile7

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Posted 20 March 2012 - 05:57 AM

The nice thing about the Bragon sets is you get 4 huge platic viles for only $22 so I got two sets, one for rusting and one for weathering for only $44. The Mig and FOW stuff runs $35 for 5 small plastic containers. I find them to be a rip off for that price when the Bragdon stuff is about 3-4 times the amount powder and the colors are great. Good luck with them if you choose to try them out. Post some pics and we can compare notes.



#10 enrgie

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:23 PM

 When you highlight do you drybrush or you layer the greys?



#11 mgentile7

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 12:52 AM

enrgie said:

 When you highlight do you drybrush or you layer the greys?

I highlight. But use a circular motion with the first highlight color so some of the black color shows through. The trick though is in the weathering with the sponge and powder work. Good luck and message if you have any questions.



#12 mgentile7

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 12:52 AM

SOrry I meant I dry brush highlight.






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