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#41 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 08 August 2012 - 04:38 PM

I impress myself sometimes. I got another one done tonight.

Ah Runewitch Astarra. Now just Astarra for dabbling in Necromancy.



#42 Rhime

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 05:17 AM

Any tips for me to start as I've never painted a mini.

Is a primer needed and what type of paints are used?



#43 Antizombie

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 05:28 AM

Rhime said:

Any tips for me to start as I've never painted a mini.

Is a primer needed and what type of paints are used?

I can help you with this! Yes primer is very important. Black primer is usually the best. These models are very small so you should prime them in the following way.

1) Secure to a thick piece of cardboard (you can use sticky tac for posters to do that)

2) make sure your primer is held 6-8 inches away from model.

3) spray in short bursts so that you don't spray too much on and lose detail. get just enough on to cover the model. If you miss spacees you can just go pack and prime those areas or cover them in black paint by hand.

Painting for the beginner:

Get some paints. best paints you could get would be to get soem Games Workshop foundations, Vallejo paints, or Reaper master series. minimum colors you will need: Black, White, Red, Blue, Yellow, brown. Everything else can be mixed, but it is usually a good idea to pick up a lighter shade of each paint. You can also grab a Boltgun metal paint for the weapons and armory bits. Dwarf flesh is a good all around color for skin.

Actually painting: So the big thing is to stay in the lines and get a nice clean base coat. When you paint just keep your colors where they are suppose to be. If a cape is green and hair is not, make sure no green gets on the hair. Also, sometimes the paint might not go on smoothly. You get streaks. Make sure if this happens that you just go over it again. A nice crisp basecoat and staying in the lines will make your models better than 60% of what's out there, don't even need any fancy highlighting

Tips:

Make sure your paints are too thick, add a little water to thin them out. This might mean you have to add a few coats of the same color but thats ok.

Don't over load your brush with paint.

Go look at a few youtube tutorials. There are a ton.

 

Where to get good deals on the paints? : thewarstore.com

 

Hope that helps!



#44 Rhime

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 07:46 AM

Awesome tips!

Thanks a lot… :)



#45 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 08:58 AM

I used to use Games Workshop Paints but I find them to be to thick now and the bottles annoying. I've switched to Reaper paints and I'm happy with the consistency. The best place I found to buy reaper paints was ccgarmory.com at 2.09/bottle. I ended up spending about $80 on my reaper paints after getting a good assortment of trio paints (light, dark, medium per color).

Antizombie's tips are excellent, some difference I do or at least here is what I do in my steps:

  1. Cut away any "flashing" (apparently this is what it's called?), which is the little bits of plastic left over from the molds.
  2. If your figures are really greasy from manufacturing (you'll see this more on metal figures) you'll want to wash them with warm dish soap and water.
  3. Prime your figures. Antizombie is correct here, 6-8 inches away, I don't bother with keeping my figures tagged down. I also use a white primer instead. I find it's easier to see detail and where I haven't painted yet.
  4. Once priming is done, I look over each color area of the character and make a mix for the darkest parts of that color and make it into a wash (adding water to dilute it and help get deep detail recesses) and paint in this colored wash where needed. Let the wash dry, this can take up to 20mins+ since it's so watery.
  5. Once all washes are finished I then start with the most recessed areas of the character, this is usually skin areas or clothing under armor or more clothing. Basically work your way out of the character. Once I've picked an area to work on, I'll take a step higher of color from the wash and paint in most areas, leaving deep recesses for shading. After that, I move onto dry brushing lighter color steps to give more detail to each area. (repeat this step until all areas are covered)
  6. Finally, I work on the base adding any little bits of terrain detail as I feel is needed.
  7. Cover with a finish. I used to use a glossy finish but it took away from the character, now I use a Matte Finish.

A note on dry brushing, get the color you want, and then remove the excess paint you don't need on newspaper or such until you've barely got paint on the brush, this will give you're characters an excellent (natural) look.

Yes, youtube is an excellent source for visual tutorials, I suggest MiniwargamerJ's videos, he gives good tips and helped me step my painting up as well.



#46 Butaman551

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 03:31 PM

 I'm going to start painting my monster figures pretty soon, and would be super interested in the color schemes you all are using for your monsters. I'm still new to the world of miniature painting, so it would help me a lot to see how you all have been painting your monsters. 

So my request…..more monster pics!

Thanks!



#47 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 03:39 PM

Butaman551 said:

So my request…..more monster pics!

Wish I could help you there. I'm still debating if I'm gonna paint my monsters as I would need a huge carrying case and currently don't have the space for them right now. With the color scheme, I'd just paint mine following the cards given to us. The only difference would be to give the master monsters a striking difference so heroes know "Yeah this guy will probably hurt."



#48 Antizombie

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 03:44 PM

Ill get on that eventually. I only plan on painting the master monsters, honestly i wasn't even planning on buying this game…



#49 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 09 August 2012 - 05:09 PM

 Just finished another one, sadly I doubt I'll have any time till next week to get a few more out.



#50 jamesfx

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Posted 10 August 2012 - 02:39 AM

I've got to say I'm loving this thread and I'm so jealous that you guys are already painting your figures. I've got another 8 figures from Talisman to paint up before I can start the descent bunch..

I'll have to see if I can crack a few of them out over this weekend.

I like what I've seen so far though guys, keep it up!!!



#51 Bravo McWilley

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Posted 10 August 2012 - 02:54 AM

Just wanted to chime in here and comment to the guy asking for tips on painting. Everything the others have said is very good advise. Follow that but here are a couple other tips:

1. Primer - I use cheap Colorplace flat spray paint that you can pick up from Walmart for a couple dollars a can. Shake Very very well before use and spray lightly 6-8 inches away. Start the spray to the right or left of the model, not directly on the model, so that you are spraying nothing and then sweep the can across the model and stop the spray at the other side beyond the model. This ensures an even coat and you will likely have to do a few passes but watch that you are not covering too much. Overspray will kill the details, just practice a bit. When done priming, turn the can upside down and spray at nothing until there is no paint coming out. This keeps the nozzle clean and prevents paint from building up on it and making it not useful for next spray session.

2. Primer color does affect the final model a bit. Black primer gives models a duller tone and makes things darker. I also like black for the fact that you can leave the primer in the deep areas between 2 colors for a black line of separation which is nice. White makes the model brighter, you will likely need to do the black "outlining" yourself with white. Grey is neutral. I like to use black for monsters and white for heroes giving them different looks. Monsters typically, like zombies and the like, should be darker, while heroes I like to showcase bright colors. If your monster is made of fire or the light, like the Air Elemental, then white is the best primer…Just put a bit of thought into it and you will realize what primer color to use.

3. Many people use expensive paint like the Reaper paints, etc, that have been mentioned here. Those are great paints and if you can afford it then go for it. They are worth it, but its not necessary. If your on a budget and just begining, you may not want to shell out $100 in paints. I personally use acrylic water based paints in the small plastic bottles you can get from Walmart for about 99 cents a piece. Brands like Folk Art, Creamcoat and Craft Essentials are all at Walmart for cheap. The big difference between good quality paint and the cheap ones i mention is that paint is a liquid meduim with colored granuals mixed in. The finer the paint "grains" the better the paint. The expensive paints have very fine grains, while the cheap paints are less fine, so there is something to be said for getting better paint, but I have never had an issue either way. What you will run into though is the thickness of the paints. the expensive paints are very fine and spread easily in thin coats, while the craft paint from walmart will be usually very thick right out of the bottle almost to the point where you cant use it very well like it is provided. This is easily fixable, see #4

4. Thinning paint. You want your paint to be the thickness of milk. Too thick and it will be tough to apply and cover details, too thin and it runs everywhere and seeps into grooves. Too thin paints can be good sometimes if your looking to do a wash, but that's another story. You will want to thin your paints, but DO NOT use just water to thin them. Water has a tension to it that makes the paint not flow right. Adding just a single drop of dish soap liquid to a pint or so of water will break the water tension and give you a better thinning solution. Now here is another trick, instead of making your own thinner, I picked up a bottle of windshield washer fluid, the blue stuff. This is essentially the same thing: water and a tiny bit of soap. The blue color does not affect the paint and you can thin even whites with it without color change. Its cheap and premade. Just place a little in a small bowl and your paint in a another plastic area. Add just a drop or two at a time of the thinning material to your paint and stir. Keep adding until the paint is the thickness of milk. Getting your paint the right thickness will improve your painting way more than you think it would.

5. Shadows and Highlights. Your models are tiny and the details are not big enough to provide color variation for shadows and highlights on its own. You need to add this yourself during painting. You should have at least 3 "layers" of paint for every section of color you do. Lets take a cloak for example. Our cloak is red but adding just base red will look funny and amaturish. Add a dark brown, black, or opposing color from the color wheel (green for red) to the red to make a shadow color first. Use this darker red and coat the entire area in a nice even smooth coat. What we want to do is leave the recessed areas this darker color, but cover all the red area in this color. Then get your base red color (base color is based on the cloaks color…may not be red from out the bottle and could be mixed for some other shade of red) and paint the cloak, leaving the darker red color in the recesses and only painting the red on the medium and top areas. Darker in the folders and red everywhere else covering up the darker red with the base red on these areas. Then mix a lighter color for your highlights and paint those on the very outermost, or highest places of the cloak. You will get the hang of this but it gives the model depth. You may want to try dry brushing this final highlight layer or not, it depends on the area. hair is great for dry brushing, while smooth areas, like cloaks, are better painted.

6. Lastly, make sure to always, ALWAYS, use flat paint, flat primer and flat seal coating. Gloss is a no-no IMHO and makes the model not look right. Of course there are exceptions, but I have never used gloss and never will. When complete, use a flat matte clear spray can to cover the model using the same spray technique described above. Do at least 3-4 light coats and let dry between each coat.



#52 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 11 August 2012 - 08:05 AM

 Just finished this now. The picture didn't come out as good as I like but it gets the point across. These figures look much better in person then my droid Razr can show them.



#53 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 11:29 AM

 This guy was such a pain to paint. I'm glad he's over. I look forward to trying him out in D2e though.



#54 Triu

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 03:37 PM

Coldmoonrising said:

Just finished this now. [Bogran the Shadow]
Must be a member of the Squat Team.



#55 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 02:01 AM

 Got another one done last night, didn't have time to post the pic though till now.



#56 skolo

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:13 AM

I`m not pro, but started painting my monsters. Some of the results below

 



#57 skolo

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:15 AM

 

 

 

 



#58 skolo

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 08:16 AM

 

…and finished Merriod or whatever this fish thing is, photos tomorrow ;)



#59 Coldmoonrising

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 09:40 AM

Skolo,

I saw your paitings over of BBG's site. I really like how your elementals came out, they look great.



#60 skolo

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Posted 13 August 2012 - 10:05 AM

Coldmoonrising said:

Skolo,

I saw your paitings over of BBG's site. I really like how your elementals came out, they look great.

 

thanks :), but comparing to your work…pff






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