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Diary of a Newbie Painter


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#41 Moiterei_1984

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Posted 06 August 2011 - 10:17 AM

Look´s great. I think they´ll look damn good with some washes added.



#42 Loophole Master

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Posted 07 August 2011 - 04:20 PM

 Thanks for the encouragement! Haven't had time to paint lately, but just to show I haven't stopped competely, I played a little bit with the new ammo crates from Cyclone. While my washes haven't arrived yet, I thought it was safe to play around with simple acrylic black dissolved in water for this thing, since I was going for a dirty, chaotic look anyway, with just some metallic highlight. I think it turned out pretty good.

I recently got Cyclone, Command Squads, SpecOps, Medium Walkers, so I'm a bit overwhelmed with the work piling up. And after playing with all those units for the first time, it became clear that it's IMPERATIVE that I paint them, cause they're all looking the same on the game table....



#43 LaserViola

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Posted 08 August 2011 - 02:59 AM

Looks great! Looking forward to see the the axis miniatures painted!



#44 Peacekeeper_b

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Posted 08 August 2011 - 04:24 AM

zuggzugg said:

The model does indeed have them. Same as every other picture he's in. You can see them tied off on his mid thigh. I have not seen pockets on the very front of any pair of pants that go all the way up to the mid thigh from the ankle and are tied off at the thigh. Same type of pads as his arms. you can easily see the line going up both sides of his leg. There are two little pouches at the top where the pad is tied off also.

I think those are reinforced clothing, just a second or thicker additional layer of cloth on the knees, shins, nothing more. Otherwise I dont think armor would bend diffferently on both legs as you can clearly see on the left leg the armor would be bent/folded. It may indeed be a pad, but its not armor.

Oh well, everyone sees something different. For example, I look at Joe and see the worst figure of the line.



#45 DoomOnYou72

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Posted 08 August 2011 - 10:46 AM

Its part of the US Paratrooper uniform. They are an additionnal layer of thicker fabric in order to protect the areas that normally wore through on the jump uniform (knees , elbows, cargo pockets-the straps are or securing the cargo pocket when its full). This was required after the M1942 Paratrooper uniform was found to be too easily worn out. By the time the M1943 uniform was introduced it was standard. It was also done in the field frequently to older uniforms.

Great job on the models Loophole.



#46 Loophole Master

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 03:21 PM

After a too-long hiatus, I've finally gone back to painting my axis forces. I started a little differently, doing some "production line" style work, and getting the black and dark brown and painting all the troops' boots, boot coverings, belts, masks, straps and stuff. I'm thinking of leaving the armor the primer gray, and painting the fatigues different colours: Cream for the Recons, grayish-blue for the Battle Grenadiers, crimson for Sigrid and, not sure yet, dark gray for the Laser Grenadiers.



#47 Loophole Master

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 01:35 AM

 Started painting some fatigues. I had to do a bit of mixing to get the right colour for Sigrid, but I'm pleased with the result. It doesn't really look as orangy as in this photo. The one thing that puzzles me is that sometimes the final result will be very glossy, while other times it's very dull. I'm using the same kind of enamel paint throughout! It doesn't really bother me, but it would be nice to have more control over this...



#48 JigBakerSugar

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Posted 01 September 2011 - 06:10 AM

Enamels are often sold in "gloss" and "matte" versions. I would bet you somehow ended up with a mix of both types. (It's not always super apparent on the label which one you've got.)

 



#49 Loophole Master

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 03:13 AM

Finished with the base colours for Sigrid. For the blonde hair I followed the advice given by Nam Nguyen in the "Painting Rosie" article. I'll try do do some touch-ups on the face after I've applied the wash, adding eyes (gulp) and trying to better define the lips.



#50 [So]Rice

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 05:13 PM

Looking good, can't wait to see you use washes on the troops. If you want, you can give the red a thin wash of Badab Black and it will give you shading. Just a bit though, not too much.



#51 Loophole Master

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 06:40 PM

 What's the general rule on deciding whether to use Devlan Mud or Badab Black to wash a specific part? I was under the impression that colours that lean toward red should be washed with Devlan Mud (reds, oranges, yellows, browns, creams) and other colours should be washed with Badab Black (grays, blues, greens). Is it not so? Why wash Sigrid's reddish fatigue with Badab Black instead of Devlan Mud, I'm still trying to understand the logic behind this whole thing.

 Also, you say "just a bit, not too much". Well, I was doing some tests on some ammo crates and my conclusion was a bit of a paradox: If I applied only a little bit of wash, spreading it around, it would quickly dry and wouldn't really flow much towards the recesses, so pretty much the whole surface became all smudged. Not very dark, but not clean at all, stained all over. If I applied a lot of wash, really allowing it to create pools on the surface, it would dry slowly, flowing towards the recesses and leaving the overall surface apparently cleaner and more uniform, however the recesses would be pitch black. What's the secret?

I'm really scared of ruining my painstaking base colour work when doing the washes. Though I do have a bit of a safety net. Since I painted with enamels, I think I could wipe off the wash with alcohol if it turns out ugly, without affecting the base colours, which are only soluble in paint thinner.



#52 JigBakerSugar

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 07:01 PM

"Whatever works."

In this case, you're probably correct- Devlan Mud would most likely look better.

And you're correct about flooding it on as well. Washes work much better when flooded over the entire part you're washing, rather than sparingly applied. (Unless you can blend, in which case you can selectively apply washes in small amounts.) However, sometimes you don't want the big pools of wash. What I do in these situations is to apply it liberally, then quickly rinse the brush, tap it on a paper towel to get most of the water out, and then use the damp brush to wick away excess wash. Repeat the rinse-tap-wick process as needed. This works especially well on Space Marines armor, where you have large flat areas you don't want swimming in wash, but don't want the splotchy look you get from applying too little. Wiping it off all the large surfaces helps keep the armor from looking "dirty." It is a little wasteful on the wash, unfortunately, but the washes really do look better when flooded on and removed than sparingly applied.



#53 JigBakerSugar

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 07:15 PM

Also, Devlan Mud looks good on greens too, depending on the look you're going for. Shading/highlighting with a color's complement can add a richness to the color that makes it "pop" a bit more. DM isn't particularly reddish, but it has enough to add a little life to darker greens that a black wash wouldn't.



#54 Loophole Master

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 01:58 AM

 Thanks a lot for the advice.



#55 Loophole Master

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 04:39 AM

 Well, here are the finished base colours for the Recon Grenadiers. This is the first time I've sorta stuck to the "official" colour scheme, cause I just thought it felt right for these guys. Pretty happy with the results:

The guns were painted with Gunbolt Metal, which SoRice sent me. It was my first time painting with acrylics, and wow, what a difference. It comes much thinner so I don't really need to dissolve it or anything, it flows well and dries really fast. This is nice, but it was also a bit distressing, as I'm used to having a little more time to wipe out mistakes, take off excess paint and so on. But the best aspect of it was really the fact that I could just stir the brush inside a glass with water and it would come out clean. No need to ruin it by rubbing it hard inside a vat of foul-smelling chemicals.....



#56 zuggzugg

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 04:51 AM

I think he is talking about thinning the wash. At least, that's what I do. You can still put a lot of it on so it flows well, but just thin it out so it doesn't darken the model too much.

 

Your stuff is looking great! keep it up!



#57 Loophole Master

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 05:00 AM

 Just add water to the wash? Is that it? Cool. What's a good proportion to thin it out without making it lose its properties?



#58 zuggzugg

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 06:52 AM

You can also add a drop of flow aid or matte medium to the wash along with the water. I'd say 1:1:1. You can play with the ratios.



#59 zuggzugg

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 06:56 AM

This might help you out as well, if you've not already seen it.



#60 Loophole Master

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 07:21 AM

zuggzugg said:

You can also add a drop of flow aid or matte medium to the wash along with the water. 

 

Oh, don't start with the fancy fluids again!  I've already had enough difficulty getting my hands on the Citadel washes.






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